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The REAL Problem of March Audio's Sointuva WG (Review, Measurements and Reinforcements with Klippel device)

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Nuyes

Nuyes

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If we ever decide to have a typo contest here on ASR I believe this one would fight for the win, so it would be a pity if we let it go unnoticed! :D
That is cleary my fault.

Thank you for saving me from the bottom of my conscience.

And I'm sorry for using childish and unpleasant expressions for the purpose of criticizing certain people.

I will sincerely reflect on myself.
 

SDC

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I'm sorry for contaminating the thread.

I don't want to continue the truth battle.
This is not going to be solved anyway, and it's wasteful.
And every member has the right to interpret and believe in their own way.

I will not comment further on the issue of personal conscience that cannot be identified.

I would very much like members to discuss this product.

I can only hope that Alan can restore confidence in his existing customers and prospects by revealing the truth about binding posts and torque values.

I'm sorry to the members.
I swear I won't make any personal criticism in the future.

Yeah, time is gold. DC needs more reviews than Sowhatuva
 

restorer-john

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Here's an ASR member who knows how to properly secure drivers to a baffle:

index.php


index.php
 

julbo

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@Nuyes Could you please share what is your go to method to detect air leaks?
One of my key take-aways from this thread, applying a DC level to the woofers and observing the PRs following and holding the push/pull of the main driver.
There's a video from the OP, great stuff
 

restorer-john

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@Nuyes Could you please share what is your go to method to detect air leaks?

He uses LPG. Basically pumps it in via the speaker terminals and brings a cigarette lighter close to the joins/drivers etc. When it blows, he's found an air leak. ;)
 

thin bLue

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New responses from Marchaudio.

Screenshot_20220706-203301_Samsung Internet Beta.png


index.php


+ I saw some members asking about specific measurements of this pair form Marchaudio.

So, I asked about them. if Marchaudio says it's OK to share and send me some, I'll post them.
 

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thorvat

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That is cleary my fault.

Thank you for saving me from the bottom of my conscience.

And I'm sorry for using childish and unpleasant expressions for the purpose of criticizing certain people.

I will sincerely reflect on myself.

Don't be hard on yourself because of this - I'd say everyone here is pretty certain this was unintentional typo. :)
 
OP
Nuyes

Nuyes

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@Nuyes Could you please share what is your go to method to detect air leaks?
1.Binding Post

On the day sample B arrived and the stereo set was completed, my friend visited my studio.

He listened to "Limit your love - James Blake" because he is a low-pitched audio enthusiast, and immediately detected a strange noise.

After listening to his attention, I also listened to the same song, and I could hear strange noises like farts.

We looked around the speakers with the music playing, and we could use our ears to find the problem right away.

The binding post was howling when the bass guitar player was playing, and when the kick drum was playing.

And it was solved by shilling.



2. Rubber insert nut

After repairing the binding post, I pushed the passive radiator to make sure it was sealed well.

Woofer was pushed out, but soon returned to his place.
This was evidence that additional leaks were occurring.

I don't know if it's clear that the rubber insert nut is leaking.

However, it was pulled out when pushed with force.
It wasn't hard enough.

Therefore, I sealed a total of 24 insert nuts per speaker and confirmed that additional leaks were reduced in the same test.


3.Twitter Assembly

I can't check if this is a leak of air.
However, one thing I can be sure of is that significant differences in sealing were observed in the same comparative environment without any changes in the internal sound absorbers (using Klippel and Earthworks).

This may not have been a leak of air, but an additional tremor caused by internal resonance.
And it's improved.
 

restorer-john

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So, I asked about them. if Marchaudio says it's OK to share and send me some, I'll post them.

No. Please don't. Just move on and let this wretched thread die in peace.
 

theREALdotnet

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Woofer was pushed out, but soon returned to his place.
This was evidence that additional leaks were occurring.

If the cone returns to its position slowly (within 2 or 3 seconds or so) then that’s all the air tightness you need for a sealed box speaker. We’re not talking about a bottle of BBQ gas here. Slow (“DC”) air leaks have no bearing on audio frequency reproduction.

LS3/5a aficionados will remember the ”box test”, devised to check the cabinet for sufficient air tightness. Basically, you pushed in the cone of the mid-woofer, waited a few seconds for the pressure inside to equalise (via small, inconsequential air leaks), then let go of it quickly. If it returned to its neutral position slowly, taking a couple of seconds, the speaker was fine. If it sprang back quickly you had a problem and needed to reseal the cabinet.
 
OP
Nuyes

Nuyes

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If the cone returns to its position slowly (within 2 or 3 seconds or so) then that’s all the air tightness you need for a sealed box speaker. We’re not talking about a bottle of BBQ gas here. Slow (“DC”) air leaks have no bearing on audio frequency reproduction.

LS3/5a aficionados will remember the ”box test”, devised to check the cabinet for sufficient air tightness. Basically, you pushed in the cone of the mid-woofer, waited a few seconds for the pressure inside to equalise (via small, inconsequential air leaks), then let go of it quickly. If it returned to its neutral position slowly, taking a couple of seconds, the speaker was fine. If it sprang back quickly you had a problem and needed to reseal the cabinet.
Thank you for teaching me.

Before sealing the insert nuts, the woofer slowly returned to its original position for about two seconds, and the changes were made through consultation with the speaker owner as in all other processes.
 

CosmicDancer

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OMG! the opposite of smoke testing!!! Can we move this to the humor thread!!?? I'm dyin' here...
Mix a teaspoon of soap in water, and spray or put the solution on the area that you suspect is leaking. If bubbles start to show up, it's an indication that you have a leak.;)
 

Holmz

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I'm sorry for contaminating the thread.

I don't want to continue the truth battle.
This is not going to be solved anyway, and it's wasteful.
And every member has the right to interpret and believe in their own way.

I will not comment further on the issue of personal conscience that cannot be identified.

I would very much like members to discuss this product.

I can only hope that Alan can restore confidence in his existing customers and prospects by revealing the truth about binding posts and torque values.

I'm sorry to the members.
I swear I won't make any personal criticism in the future.

Having the holes sealed is undisputed.
And providing the torque values makes a lot of sense.
 

Holmz

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The last part should worry you. Getting the company to accept any fault with the speaker will be extremely hard if not impossible. If the reviewer could not using all of his measurements and data points, what hope would you have?

Well half of the time I live 15 minutes away, so there is that.
If you think I bad here, you should be thankful you have not met me in person ;)


It is a storm in a teacup driven, to a large extent, by the capital of (imho deserved) antipathy Alan has amassed over time around here. In terms of speakers, you could do worse, at least when they are properly assembled. IMHO, what we are seeing here is more likely to be the result of poor manufacturing or lack of actual QC by a small-scale assembler. I would assume, given the high visibility of this site and thread, that if other people had similar extremely poor build quality issues, we would have heard more horror stories. Whether you want or don't want to reward poor behavior is another issue I guess. Poor QC seems to hit audio stuff manufacturers more often than it should, unfortunate but not as bad as snake oil in my book.

Yeah, the money I save on cables I can put into speakers. ;)

And there are other speakers with good QC that all measure poorly.
But I have not really found speakers as good sounding, at anywhere near that price.

They are way more than I want to spend, but I don’t buy speakers as often as most people.

Maybe I’ll bust out the router and do a three way. There is the new 8” purify and they have a smaller MR (4” ?? Maybe).
Then I maybe can use that Octo DAC8 to do an active XO. 3 for each speaker and a couple for subs.
 
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