My entire audio-video chain consumes around ~60W when playing music at around 85dB. If I turn on the TV, that value goes up quite significantly - I think the 52-inch Samsung LED gobbles up around 150W in operation.
That's when you program a '1' to your auto-boogie register and crank up the calorie consumption.Well, according to internet, someone my age, gender and height needs around 2100Kcal every day to just stay alive. Keep the heart beating, liver running, brain functioning - that kind of stuff. (You can check yours here) 2100 Kcal is roughly 2400 Wh every day or ca 100W per hour. That is before even I turn on the amp.
Thanks for sharing that!!! It's something I never thought about calculating. (I don't think I actually eat that much...)Well, according to internet, someone my age, gender and height needs around 2100Kcal every day to just stay alive. Keep the heart beating, liver running, brain functioning - that kind of stuff. (You can check yours here) 2100 Kcal is roughly 2400 Wh every day or ca 100W per hour. That is before even I turn on the amp.
To be honest with yourself, then all these attempts to "save the planet" with class D amplifiers do not even seem like nonsense, they are complete absolute nonsense.
A working family man does not listen to music often, not every day, and certainly not every weekend.
Almost no one listens to music at the maximum power of the amplifier (individual psychopaths do not count), no one unscrews the volume control of a 100 watt amplifier for more than 10-11 hours.
The number of audiophiles is negligible.
Because all this battle for energy efficiency against the backdrop of continuously aging and poorly maintained utility networks, against the backdrop of dirty and inefficient mass production in China, etc. looks like some kind of funny oddity, looking for solutions to problems where there are none, but no more.
Just turn off the equipment when you are not using it.
Perhaps use a smart or non-smart timer plug?It looks like I will have to turn them on and off with the back switches if I do not want energy vampires.
https://parasound.com/vintage/pld2000.phpInterestingly, they will not go into standby with the XLRs connected, so there must be some constant low level output from my Parasound PLD 2000 Line Drive preamp.
Methinks it's got a slight hum issue, possibly exacerbated by age (the schematic I found is dated 1995, so it's not old old but not exactly a spring chicken either... you're in a better position to tell how many hours it's got on the clock now). I can't imagine the input JFETs would have that much 1/f noise. Or you've got a ground loop if unbalanced inputs are involved.Signal-to-Noise Ratio
>110 dB, A weighted, full output
>90 dB, unweighted, full output
That was quite a bit for an amp in idle mode (your Yamaha A-S1000) since no internet activity at all.Some of them I wrote on a post it when I adjusted idle current. I have more but I didn't write them all down..
Yamaha P7000S = 38 W
Yamaha P3200 = 35 W
Yamaha MX70 = 68 W
Yamaha MX-630 = 65 W
Yamaha A-S1000 = 72 W
Onkyo M-502 = 75 W
I don't think so. Quite average for this kind of A/B design. All measurements done with idle current adjusted per service manual.That was quite a bit for an amp in idle mode (your Yamaha A-S1000) since no internet activity at all.
That is before even I turn on the amp.
Thx, Digby, yeah I could but I would need two (each amp is behind a speaker and plugged into separate outlets. It prob is not worth the bother and I use the system with no clear schedule, but that is a good idea that I had not thought of.Perhaps use a smart or non-smart timer plug?
https://parasound.com/vintage/pld2000.php
Methinks it's got a slight hum issue, possibly exacerbated by age (the schematic I found is dated 1995, so it's not old old but not exactly a spring chicken either... you're in a better position to tell how many hours it's got on the clock now). I can't imagine the input JFETs would have that much 1/f noise. Or you've got a ground loop if unbalanced inputs are involved.
Hmm... they were using a 220µ/25V bipolar to connect power ground to chassis ground. Isn't that a bit much?
View attachment 310073
Then there's also this:
View attachment 310075
I don't really get the ground routing, to be honest, a look at the actual boards may be required. Granted, the main circuit is balanced and ought not to be affected by potential loops, but there are at least some unbalanced sections.
Also, in a surprise to no-one, it appears that XLR pin 1 wiring does not follow AES48-2005 guidelines.
They've also got balance / volume pot arrangements that are just duplicated for the balanced input... I can't imagine that's doing input CMRR much good (pot mistracking and stuff).