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The Bose 301s

AlzalzS

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Hello, I have the Bose 301s series V

It says they’re rated 4-8ohms 10-150watts/channel
But they also say 75watts continuous 6ohms
Is it the continuous power rating that is the important rating? Similar to rms?

Or should I get a 150 watts per channel receiver?

My receiver is the denon avr1801 and I was needing to know from those with experience about my setup, is my receiver good enough for these speakers? Mine says it’s 75watts 8 ohms 2 channels driven and i believe 105watts 6 ohms one channel driven. Maybe I’m wrong but I lost my manual and don’t know either way
 
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Prana Ferox

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Did you get rid of your other Bose speakers to get... different old Bose speakers? That you already think suck?

I’ve tried out the 301 series v and the ev 251s and they’re horrible and i agree with people that Bose sucks on these models. But the 97s are way better. I can see myself with these for atleast 20 more years so long as I take care of them
 
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AlzalzS

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I changed my mind about the 301s!
Error in my part really, just after listening to my Bose headphones I started to wonder why my 101s don’t sound so well to me anymore
301s not that old I believe

I wasted money on jbl tour pro+ 160$ as well :(

Edit: which are now 99$ smh*
 
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AlzalzS

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None of these numbers matter. Your receiver will drive your speakers perfectly well.
Edit: thanks for the affirmation, so if I don’t need to worry about it, then I won’t.
 
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AlzalzS

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By the way is AAC decoded by Dolby or DTS?
I’m watching some movies with the audio as AAC yet I can only choose Dolby or dts on mr receiver
 
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AlzalzS

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Hey man, what do you think about this?


Only thing is I don’t need all those network features, gotta see what the crossover frequency for sub out, not sure if that matters much tho
 
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AlzalzS

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It has come to my attention that some receivers on the market market themselves as being 4ohm capable at 2 channels driven, and yet these IEC certified receivers may say 100W/ channel with 4ohm capacity when in reality they are 100/channel at 8 ohms and technical capablity of 4 ohms but cut the watts down by half to perhaps 50w/channel, which is how the maker of the model loopholes into IEC certified for 4 ohm capability when in reality the amp actually cannot do true 4ohm output as per their defined specs. Is this a reality I have to be careful of? I figured if anybody had the insight to this, it would help me very much to know about this. I read this in an article I didn’t really understand recently
 
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ZolaIII

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AB class Yamahas aren't really made for lo impedance loads even if they have 4 Ohm's switch. They are for deacent regarding minimal impedance 6~8 Ohm's rated speakers that don't deep under 4 Ohm's. You can adjust LFE output frequency and loudness in MusicCast app so you need it's network abilitys for/as controler even if you don't want to use streaming. Bose 301s are 75 W RMS continues 6 Ohm's, 150 W short term (that's just a ±3 dB difrence), you really don't need an amplifier with more than 100 W (@ 8 Ohm's) anyway. And of course you will drive them with lot less. It's not in specification but pretty sure those are mid sensitive (about 85~87 dB LPS per W @ 1m), best regards.
 
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AlzalzS

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Great insight thank you so much
I don’t know that the avr1801 can do 6ohm 75w x2 Channel
I would have thought ab amp would be way better than my class D
I’m just wondering what a decent and future proof receiver I can consider buying when one day my receiver dies

That Yamaha is 800$ before tax and it’s 2 channel but mine is 5.1 @12-16ohms all channels driven
 
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ZolaIII

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You won't pump more than 25~50 W to those speakers ever probably and even so much when you want to play them very loud, most times you will stay in 1~10 W range (this is a case with most speakers). Keep in mind W*2=+3 dB and other way around. It's always good to have headroom regarding power amplifier (for various input level deficits such as use of EBU R128, DSD listening, EQ-ing...) but no need for exaggeration.
Your AVR probably has more than enough power even tooking in consideration worst possible scenario.
Edit: just sow you pined to Yamahas site meaning you probably missed the review hire so.
When you're AVR dies or you simply want to change it come here and ask that question.
At this moment regarding AVR's those would be last generation (as before new one in last year) mid range Denon models that still can be find.
Best regards and have a nice time.
 
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AlzalzS

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You won't pump more than 25~50 W to those speakers ever probably and even so much when you want to play them very loud, most times you will stay in 1~10 W range (this is a case with most speakers). Keep in mind W*2=+3 dB and other way around. It's always good to have headroom regarding power amplifier (for various input level deficits such as use of EBU R128, DSD listening, EQ-ing...) but no need for exaggeration.
Your AVR probably has more than enough power even tooking in consideration worst possible scenario.
Edit: just sow you pined to Yamahas site meaning you probably missed the review hire so.
When you're AVR dies or you simply want to change it come here and ask that question.
At this moment regarding AVR's those would be last generation (as before new one in last year) mid range Denon models that still can be find.
Best regards and have a nice time.

I just finished through reading the review, something I realized is that I don’t need an avr, I don’t use the video inputs although this receiver uses component and svideo so yeah don’t need that at all. But if I want surround sound then I’m stuck with an avr? I’m not going to assume yes even though newest surround decoders use hdmi through earc

I am thinking of swapping out this receiver for something with better performance at this moment. After reading Amirm’s review, I see he recommends that Yamaha. For its price I can imagine it delivers a better sound quality?

Also I’m not sure if my Bose 301 can go 4ohm, like it has already been gone over and to not mention it again rms 75@6ohm

So I need to think if this receiver is for me but as it’s shown in the review that this amp actually delivers more power than advertised. Which is great but as you said I’ll be within 1-10 watts generally. If I move onto bigger things then this Yamaha is future proof. 2 channels however is not enough, but I think if I use 6 speakers I can wire them in series, or if the 301s are actually 8ohm I can use parallel and have 2 speakers on each channel and the wattage would go up but impedance down.

I am planning to throw a party/event and would like to DJ using my own equipment and I feel that I MAY need about 6 channels and 2 subs. This is why I asked about sub out crossover freq because I’m still noob and need to find the right sub and crossover frequency with the 301s. I looked for the frequency range of the 301 and didn’t find anything.. I am wondering about if there is a review on the Bose 301. Need to find out whether there are drops in the frequency range and if this is related directly to receiver output or just tied down to the speaker.

But to avoid features I don’t need on the avr, what other option do I have for 6 or even 8 speakers + 2 subs(perhaps powered if that’s generally better ).
 
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DVDdoug

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By the way is AAC decoded by Dolby or DTS?
Dolby is AC3. AAC is MP4 which is common on video but it's not standard on DVDs or Blu-Rays. DTS is another-different format.


But if I want surround sound then I’m stuck with an avr?
Usually yes. That's the easiest way to get surround, the easiest way to get audio from HDMI, and the easiest way to decode the DVD & Blu-Ray formats.

Also I’m not sure if my Bose 301 can go 4ohm,
Speaker impedance varies with frequency. Usually the manufacturer specifies the "nominal" impedance and it will he higher at some frequencies and lower at some frequencies.
 
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AlzalzS

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How then can I take advantage of the aac if my receiver only uses dd and dts
 
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AlzalzS

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Dolby is AC3. AAC is MP4 which is common on video but it's not standard on DVDs or Blu-Rays. DTS is another-different format.


Usually yes. That's the easiest way to get surround, the easiest way to get audio from HDMI, and the easiest way to decode the DVD & Blu-Ray formats.

Speaker impedance varies with frequency. Usually the manufacturer specifies the "nominal" impedance and it will he higher at some frequencies and lower at some frequencies.
So why then do some speaker makers say rated 8 ohm for example when really there’s is varied power at different frequencies.
 
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AlzalzS

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Thank you all very much for the replies. Would like to say Happy New Year.
 

ZolaIII

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Rated or average impedance and that wouldn't be a problem if we didn't see 8 Ohm's rated speakers by manufacturers that deep down to 3. There are multichannel solo amplifiers and multichannel desktop audio cards as other than AVR's. For example:
 
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Cars-N-Cans

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So why then do some speaker makers say rated 8 ohm for example when really there’s is varied power at different frequencies.
That used to be usually the nominal impedance, or even just the DC resistance of the voice coil. Now they usually say something like “8-ohm compatible” or similar. Back in the day them not being 8 ohms would have meant toasty-piping hot receivers and amplifiers since they were all typically linear. Now it’s not even a formality since most amplifiers are class-D or are designed to drive low impedances. Still, it was annoying when I got rid of my 25 year old Sony speakers for new “8-ohm” ones only to have my small amp just shut off on overload when any sort of bass was present since the actual minimum impedance was around 3.5 ohms. I had planned for that in the amp by having some ability to run at a higher current at less voltage, but it is annoying if you are used to older gear or have vintage components and decide to upgrade. But in this day and age I would say it’s safe to assume that pretty much all mainstream speakers will be 4 ohms and not 8 ohms due to more modern driver designs.
 
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