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Teardown, few basic measurements and personal thoughts of the Focusrite Solo Gen3

infinitesymphony

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Great teardown thread. I might start a separate thread but thought I would ask here first because you guys have studied these boards:

I recently acquired a Focusrite iTrack Solo that has an issue with the Monitor knob. Basically, the headphone and line outputs only work when light pressure is applied to the knob. Let go and a second or two later the Left channel cuts out, then the Right. This occurs over the entire range of the knob, and there is no scratchiness that might lead me to believe the problem would be solved with contact cleaner.

The iTrack Solo was released around the same time as the 1st Gen Scarlett Solo, so it may be a different design in some ways than the 3rd Gen in this thread. Just thought I'd pick your brains to see if you had any ideas before I crack it open.
 
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trl

trl

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I would say that the internal volume potentiometer needs changed. I guess it's an analogue logarithmic one, but you will see that after you'll open up the case.

There might also be the case of a cold-soldering, maybe this is the first thing you should try: open up the case, look on the back of the board for loose pins from the potentiometer and re-solder all 6 pins (hope they're 6), then see if the issue still happens.
 

infinitesymphony

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I would say that the internal volume potentiometer needs changed. I guess it's an analogue logarithmic one, but you will see that after you'll open up the case.

There might also be the case of a cold-soldering, maybe this is the first thing you should try: open up the case, look on the back of the board for loose pins from the potentiometer and re-solder all 6 pins (hope they're 6), then see if the issue still happens.
Yes, the latter was/is my hope, that the light pressure is simply closing a connection that is starting to come away from the board. I wonder if these boards used lead-free solder that might be cracking. I'll try to reflow or replace the solder as the first step. Thanks!
 

infinitesymphony

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I cracked it open. Someone had clearly opened it up before, or tried, because there was a broken clip on the front panel and some tool marks.

Not sure how universally these parts are used, so sorry if I'm OT here, but thought I'd post in case this might help someone else in the future.

Guts:
iTrack Solo Teardown 01.jpg


Monitor knob potentiometer:
iTrack Solo Teardown 02.jpg


Monitor knob bottom pins:
iTrack Solo Teardown 03.jpg


The Monitor knob is attached to a Delta brand pot with marking A103. The shaft is D-shaped (flatted) and appears to be 6mm wide x ~10mm long. There are 6 small pins in a row at the bottom and two larger outer pins connected to the pot's metal enclosure / clamps.

Even when applying pressure to the back, there is some play when I push on the knob, so I think a replacement is the best bet.

I know I'm looking for an A10K stereo pot, but how will I specify the pinout and size? A quick look on Digikey didn't turn up any small-quantity options so I suspect I'm not looking the right way.
 
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AnalogSteph

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I know I'm looking for an A10K stereo pot, but how will I specify the pinout and size? A quick look on Digikey didn't turn up any small-quantity options so I suspect I'm not looking the right way.
First of all, have you tried asking Focusrite whether they would be willing / able to supply the part? On the whole, manufacturers of music gear tend to be a fairly helpful bunch.

Pots like this are a bit exotic, but I've found some. Check whether Noble series XV012/XVB12 series or one of ALPS' RK12L series pots (like the RK12L1210C0H that's in stock at Mouser) would fit.
 

infinitesymphony

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First of all, have you tried asking Focusrite whether they would be willing / able to supply the part? On the whole, manufacturers of music gear tend to be a fairly helpful bunch.
Yes, I sent them a message on the same day as my initial post. You never know. It would be nice to have another pot from their batch.

Pots like this are a bit exotic, but I've found some. Check whether Noble series XV012/XVB12 series or one of ALPS' RK12L series pots (like the RK12L1210C0H that's in stock at Mouser) would fit.
Thank you for that. I posted in the diyAudio Parts forum and someone told me to search Mouser, which gradually led me to the Alps RK12L.

Apparently, what I'm looking for is a 12mm snap-in style with 6 pins in a row, horizontal mount, 2 gang, flatted shaft, 10K, audio taper, no detent. After comparing the catalog with the available parts it looks like RK12L12A0C0R is a good current match.

Unfortunately, all of the Alps 10K horizontal pots have 30mm shafts. The Noble pots with 12mm shafts would be a better match. Do they have a NA supplier? Should I bust out the hacksaw? :)

Someone also suggested opening up the pot and looking at the static wiper. It seems reasonable to conclude that after a drop or over time, the wiper that's supposed to touch the rotating traces has been bent down and away from them, which would explain why pushing the knob inward makes L/R contact, but I'm not sure how easily this pot is going to come apart and fit back together so I'm going to wait until I have some kind of spare on hand.
 
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bambadoo

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Have used solo gen 3 for some loudspeaker measurements.
Here is my go for the "self noise" - loopback mode to MIC in
Optimalization_mode=on :)

self noise.jpg
 

telecode101

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Thanks for the great review. Just curious. How old is this Cirrus chip? Is this the same chip that has been used in old interfaces for years?
 
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trl

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It should be the same old chip, yes. Based on its datasheet, I would say it was developed back in 2005, although maybe the manufacturing process got developed meanwhile, not sure about.
 

Leedar

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I have been using a YouTuber named Julian Krause to compare the technical performance of entry-level interfaces, and I found that he uses a method of measuring the headphone amp performance that indicates that the Scarlett Solo has quite bad THD+N (-48.4 db AKA 0.38%) with low impedance (32 ohm) headphones. I'm fairly ignorant about all of the technical details of the analysis here, but I am curious what OP or others think about his method/result. OP here seems to measure THD+N with no load according to the graphic, but Krause uses 32 and 300 ohm loads. At 300 ohms, his result is near identical with OP.

This is important to me since I am trying to get a relatively cheap interface that will work well with my existing 60 ohm headphones, and has the flexibility to work well with other low impedance phones in the future, if the need arises.
 
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trl

trl

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I did some measurements here: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...-of-the-focusrite-solo-gen3.9101/#post-233489, but for 30 Ohms I've used resistive load instead of headphones, to not damage them.

I see a ten times difference between what I measured (@1V RMS) and JK's measurements, but I have very serious doubts that the difference between resistive load and headphones will be that high (100 times more distortions on JK's measurements). I'll watch the YT sequence later and get back if I'll find anything wrong in there.
 

Gang

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Hi. What is the level of stereo crosstalk on the line output? Maybe someone knows.
 
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trl

trl

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I don't remember seeing a bad figure on the crosstalk when I did the RMAA test, so I haven't even saved that measurement. I don't think anyone measures crosstalk on audio interfaces, especially that crosstalk is more of an issue to amplifiers and not to DACs. However, do not be worried on the crosstalk on this interface, just check its datasheet and see all the values from there.
 

Gang

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Thank you. I make a choice between solo 3 gen and id4 mk2. I want to use it exclusively as a dac for output to balanced monitors with volume control. Sometimes use headphones. I do not know what to choose for one price. I see a plus in the id4 mk 2 in the digital volume control.
 

sinewav420

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I recently purchased the Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen and couple of mics, mostly for podcasting and audio measurements.

The new generation seems to be better than the previous one regarding on how it measures; feel free to compare http://prosound.ixbt.com/interfaces/focusrite/scarlett/solo/gen2-2444.shtml with http://prosound.ixbt.com/interfaces/focusrite/scarlett/solo/24-44.shtml and you'll see that background noise is lower on the 3rd Gen and harmonics are all below -100 dB.

thd.png

Solo Gen2

thd.png

Solo Gen3

Despite what @amir said in another thread, I found that Focusrite ASIO drivers seem to be working fine on my desktop and also on a Lenovo T440p. Probably the 3rd Gen of Scarlett interfaces are somehow better or the newer drivers are better (or maybe it’s because of the latest Windows 10 update from September, 2019). The ASIO control panel is locking the bitrate to one single value chosen by the user, so if the software is trying to change this automatically, then it may crash, although sometimes it does it well (depends how well is accessing the ASIO drivers). However, from the Focusrite ASIO control panel the bitrate and bitdepth can be easily adjusted, but Windows 10 control panel will always see the max values that were previously setup in the Focusrite control panel!

The software bundle is very generous, including “Ableton® Live Lite™ and Pro Tools® First Focusrite Creative Pack – Softube’s Time and Tone Bundle; Focusrite’s Red Plug-in Suite; and a choice of one of four of XLN Audio’s Addictive Keys virtual keyboard instruments”.

I find the Ableton Lite 10 DAW not so easy to use, but very good for podcasting or mixing. However, I prefer to use this interface on my iMac with GarageBand, although the Ableton application works perfectly fine on both latest Windows 10 and latest Mojave as well, but GarageBad is having an easier visual interface and more built-in plugins and controls (I actually use the compressor, stereo expander and optionally the EQ as high-pass filter).

The bundle also includes Pro Tools | First Focusrite Creative Pack that asks for an iLok license management account that can be easily created within couple of minutes.

The RED PLUG-IN SUITE seems to contain a large suite of EQ and compressor plugins.

Also Gen3 has the AIR mode, introduced 30 years ago by Focusrite, that emulates an “airy” sound that increases the clarity, emphasises the voice and makes the sound more upfront and...”airy”. Focusrite has a graph with the airy effect here:

clarett-frequencyresponse-graphs-body-980.png

It’s easy to see the gradually volume boost with about 4 dB from 100 Hz to 10 kHz.​

Just to double check if my Solo behaves in the same mode when AIR is pressed, here are my measurements with AIR button not pressed vs. pressed:

View attachment 34157
Original MIC-input frequency response

View attachment 34158
AIR-mode pressed MIC-input frequency response

Pretty close to what manufacturer states in their documents, like expected actually. Based on manufacturer wrote, here’s what the AIR effect is intended to do:

“There are three main elements that contribute to the classic ‘Air’ effect.

Coupling – the interaction between the microphone and the ISA’s mic pre input transformer.
Clarity – created by the low distortion and high linearity of the transformer and preamp design.
Frequency – a subtle enhancement created by the transformer resonance resulting in an emphasis in the higher frequency content of the sound.

Engaging the setting on the Clarett Mic Preamp switches the impedance of the preamp to that of the original ISA and enables the ‘transformer resonance effect’, giving your microphone recordings the air and clarity of an ISA transformer-based mic pre recording. ‘Air’ is useful with any microphone, but in particular listen to the benefits with vintage microphones for which this input impedance was originally intended”.


In my tests, without AIR mode enabled and volume setup for -1dB peaks, when I pressed the AIR button it starts clipping a lot per the increased gain from AIR. However, after recalibrating the volume, ARTA is showing an increase in harmonics from less than -100 dB to about -80 dB. So, there's something else that AIR-mode does to the output sound.

I also have an audio recording done by me today: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14HOs8jNQ0S3Rrt_XkfZ8caydzzZekRZH. The first speech is done normally, the second one is done with the AIR button pressed. You should notice the 1 dB increase in volume, but also the more “airy” and brighter sound when in AIR-mode. It’s like a proximity effect of the mics, but on the mid-trebles instead of the mid-bass, so quiet a pleasant effect.


The PCB seems well done and clean enough, with good-looking soldering, although some flux residue can be seen on the backside of the PCB, but not sure anyone should actually care about this.

View attachment 34169
Front of PCB

View attachment 34170
Bottom of PCB

The USB transport is done via a XMOS chip. The USB plug is an USB-C small format, but the USB cable is USB-C to USB-A, so it can get connected to any regular computer. The ADC/DAC processing is done by a $10 CIRRUS LOGIC CS4272-CZZ chip able to record/playback two 24/192kHz audio signals with a dynamic of 114 dB and a THD+N of -100 dB (a SINAD of about 17 dB). Datasheet can be found here: https://statics.cirrus.com/pubs/proDatasheet/CS4272_F1.pdf.

View attachment 34166
Close-up with the PCB
On the PCB bord I can spot a MC74HC595A chip which is a 8-Bit Serial-Input/Serial or Parallel-Output Shift Register with Latched 3-State Outputs, a HEF4053B - Triple single-pole double-throw analog switch, couple of NJM2122 - ultra low noise dual operational amplifier and several NJM8065 - dual operational amplifier.

I see that NJM2122 is quite a low noise opamp and given their positioning on the PCB layout I think these opamps are used on the MIC and INST inputs, just in front of the ADC chip, while the NJM8065 looks more like a general-use opamp, probably used on DAC outputs (the two TRS plugs) and probably for the AIR-mode effect and in the gain-stage of the headphones amplifier (not sure what the output buffer is, as the chip is scratched a bit with two parallel lines/scratches). I wonder how much the use of NJM8065 will influence THD+N? Maybe swapping those with OPA1612 will improve the final specs, although I’m not sure it really worth the trouble, given the risks caused by the very close proximity of opamps to the surrounding SMD passive components.

View attachment 34167
JRC/NJM2122 and 8065 can be spotted on the board

On the backside of the PCB I identified a chip that might gather the BIOS/firmware: https://www.mct.net/download/macronix/mx25l8005.pdf. Inside there should be the built-in firmware code, most likely upgradable via the USB connectivity from a computer running Window.

Nearby the headphones stereo plug there’s a boost-converter voltage regulator chip marked as MKPC 3425 894. This might be similar with the datasheet found here: https://www.monolithicpower.com/pub/media/document/MP3425_r1.1.pdf. This is most likely used to boost-up the USB provided +5V power up to +48V to supply the “phantom power” to dedicated dynamic microphones.

Given the rather low maximum output power provided on the headphones-out and the lack of dedicated output buffers, I really think that the headphones are directly driven by the NJM8065 opamps, so sensitive headphones are required for monitoring purposes. I’ve used sensitive AKG K550 closed headphones, in a very quiet environment (quiet bedroom at night with no audio pollution sources) and the volume was very loud to my ears when I got the knob volume over 2 o’clock (couldn’t pass over 2 o’clock, because I care about my hearing). However, when using Audio Technica ATH-20X monitoring headphones the knob volume could be maxed out without feeling that my hearing will get damaged. I also tested the sound with Hifiman HE-560, but I felt like the volume is around 25% then needed, so low indeed, but it was clean and free of audible distortions.

The polarised capacitors are branded YUSCON and some of them seem to be rated at 85C, but some others to 105C (probably the ones used as bypassing the audio opamps are at 105C). Given that the audio interface is completely cold, even after hours of operation, I see no reason to pick up 105C capacitors inside, so I see a frugal choice here. Given the very low ripple that can exist in such audio interfaces that take the power from the USB’s +5V, I don’t think there will ever be issues with these caps. Well, the phantom power capacitor nearby the dedicated SMSP boost-converter is probably the most “stressed” one.

View attachment 34168
Caps nearby the ADC/DAC chip, probably used to bypass its voltage rails

When I touch the outer shell of the XLR plugs from MIC/INST I get a tiny/little noise if no mic & no instrument are connected (max. input impedance) when maximum gain is used. That makes me thinking that the audio ground might be separated from the USB/computer’s ground. If that’s true, then this means that the probability of getting ground-loops is extremely low.

I’ve tested both Instrument and Microphone inputs and I see that the self-noise is about the same for both when set to minimum, with all the noise kept well below -140 dB, while when setting the gain to the maximum the noise increases a bit above -120 dB on the MIC input and a bit above -100 dB on the INST input. This is probably due to the gain difference between the two inputs, although the better THD+N I was able to get it on the INST input: 0.0015% on INST vs. 0.0038% on MIC.

View attachment 34163
MIC input self noise when nothing connected and gain is to the min

View attachment 34164
MIC input self noise when nothing connected and gain is to the max


View attachment 34159
MIC input used, 1 KHz sinewave

View attachment 34160
MIC input with AIR button pressed

View attachment 34161
MIC input with both AIR and Direct Monitor buttons pressed
You can easily see the effect of harmonics increase when AIR button is pressed, but also the odd distortions and decrease of output volume caused by the Direct Monitor. Not sure what is causing such kind of effect when Direct Monitor is pressed, but this is usually not pressed while doing recording, so it shouldn't matter much.

Note: Measurements were done in loopback mode at an output level of 1.145V RMS (best signal/noise ratio I found), so the THD+N figures represent both ADC + DAC distortions and noise! Sinewaves were taken from audiocheck.net, 16 bit/48 KHz, because these are lower in harmonics than ARTA's built-in generator. However, the actual measurement's results for this audio device will definitely be better if Audio Precision equipment will be used.

I also tested the MIC input with an AKG D5S dynamic mic (no phantom power needed) with a self-noise of 18 db(A) and also with a SUPERLUX ECM999 measurements condenser mic (needs 48V phantom power) with an estimated self-noise of 22 dB(A) (if it's using the same capsule as ECM888 mic). Recording’s noise with the AKG dynamic mic is very low, barely audible on the final mix/podcast, while the background noise of a recording with the ECM999 microphone is way much higher, although this is not related to the audio interface itself, but to the microphone’s internal self-noise.

Worth mentioning that interface’s gain needs to get setup way much higher when a dynamic mic is used, so, theoretically, the internal noise of the audio interface may only be audible when dynamic mics are used, but this really depends on the gain used which depends on mic’s sensitivity. In this particular case, Superlux ECM999 has a sensitivity of 14mV/Pa, while the AKG D5S has 2.6mV/Pa.

View attachment 34258
INSTRUMENT input used, 1 KHz sinewave

View attachment 34175
LINE input used, 1 KHz sinewave

Overall, I find this audio interfaces very good for use in a home/small studio, having a really low internal noise and a very good THD: below -100 dB on INST input and about -85 dB on MIC input (loopback, measured just before the input RED light to show the clipping, with output signal of 2V RMS on the TRS plugs).

L.E.: I've added INST and LINE graphs, separately.
Hey!! Great thread and tons of useful info! I got gifted a 3rd Gen 18i8 and I was hoping to see what I can improve on it, components wise, but I can’t see a way to open the chassis. Is there a trick to removing the face plate or rear panel without damaging things?

Cheers!
 
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trl

trl

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I don't remember how I opened the case...it's been a while since then, but can't you look under the four pads from the bottom and see if there are some screws there?

I cannot recommend you to start swapping electronics parts inside, as SINAD limitations, on both in & out of the sound, are more related to DAC & ADC chips themselves. However, if you really want to start a DIY project of improving your soundcard, please start a new thread here on ASR (with details and pics) and post the link here, for reference. Thanks!
 

Drain

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Hi!

This is my first post as new user :)

First and foremost, sorry for my bad english but I'm italian! ( I'm actually learning english :p)

Is this unit (focusrite scarlett solo) good for my Moondrop Aria and my mic Rode NT1A? Simply usage: play some FPS - MOBA titles, streaming and talk with my friends, stop.

Thanks a lot!
 

DJAudioFail

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Hi, this has been a very helpful thread everyone thank you, I wondered if anyone happened to know what the spec of the DC VC chip is in the pics below, I managed to put 12v across my usb rails accidentally and it looks like the VC has been used as a fuse in a good way, so I'm hoping no further damage has occurred and most of it is just carbon deposit from the solder link popping, the chip has expanded in such a way that it also formed something like a switch breaking it away from the pad.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
 

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PeteSB

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Hi, this has been a very helpful thread everyone thank you, I wondered if anyone happened to know what the spec of the DC VC chip is in the pics below, I managed to put 12v across my usb rails accidentally and it looks like the VC has been used as a fuse in a good way, so I'm hoping no further damage has occurred and most of it is just carbon deposit from the solder link popping, the chip has expanded in such a way that it also formed something like a switch breaking it away from the pad.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
On my Gen 3 4i4 it is connected to the D+ and D- of the USB port and goes through an inductor to the XMOS IC. So Im pretty sure it is an esd protection IC. If you find any info on it let me know. I am looking also.
 
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