Suggestions for a 2.1 setup with room correction

[asteroth]

Hi guys,

I'm looking to build a 2.1 system and also experiment with some sort of DSP room correction.
Of course, everything on a lower budget level, probably even some used components and if required, I'll upgrade later to more expensive things.

I don't want to throw away a lot of money and be disappointed, I want to start with a small budget and be impressed and motivated to upgrade where improvements are noticeable.

Some parts that I own, that may be used for this current project, are a SMSL C200 DAC and 2 laptops with 6600U and N5000(fanless) CPUs.

I listened briefly to a pair of Genelec 8030's and Neumann KH310's, I liked both of them but I still find them a bit on the expensive side.
KEF LS50 I have not listened yet, and although they are praised, I still consider them on the expensive side at 1000Euro for a 13cm woofer.
I'm interested to know if there are cheaper gems with similar or decent performance.

I'm also open to suggestions for a sub and for the "solution that will split the sound in 2.1", it could be the laptop with an external soundcard or let the sub pick up the same input as the speakers, etc.


For room correction, I saw this guy doing some tricks to obtain the filters that Dirac Live would provide:

And I'm wondering what is your opinion or if you know better alternatives.
I was thinking that one of the laptops could handle the DSP processing and the streaming software(eg. Tidal connect)

 

[Keith_W]

One budget speaker that flies under the radar on ASR is the Adam T5V. I have heard these. IMO the top end is too bright, but that can be easily tamed with DSP provided you take the right measurements, and you know what you are doing.

Re: DSP for 2.1 system. Your options are hardware DSP or software DSP. Hardware DSP includes things like MiniDSP, Colinear, and some Wiim models. The advantage of hardware DSP is robustness and reliability. It's not subject to the whims of Windows updates and unreliable software breaking your chain. The disadvantage: limited processing power means IIR + low tap FIR filters only.

The other option is software based DSP. Because CPU's have vastly more processing power than DSP chips, you can have high tap linear-phase FIR. You will need to buy: an interface (one DAC channel per speaker; preferably one DAC channel per driver!), XLR microphone, and DSP software. You could use free DSP options like REW+RePhase, but the learning curve is exceedingly steep and NOT RECOMMENDED for beginners. There is also LinFIR, which is a free FIR designer (I don't know how long it will remain free though). I haven't test driven that one so I don't know how good it is. Then there are the established players: Acourate and Audiolense. You will also need a convolver - this software mixes filters with music in real time. Again, these range from free (CamillaDSP) to paid options. I recommend Hang Loose Convolver - USD$150.

Going the software route will get you much more DSP power, but this route is more difficult and the learning curve is steeper. It is the ultimate option if you want to tinker since there is so much flexibility and near limitless expandability.

I wouldn't use Dirac. It's expensive and it's known to make a lot of mistakes, like sending corrections in the wrong direction. There is no way to over-ride its correction. But it is a good option if you want something simple to use. It will likely do a better job than you if you are a complete beginner and you don't want to learn DSP.

 

[kemmler3D]

@Keith_W providing solid advice as usual.

I'll just share my (pretty satisfying) 2.2 setup:

Mains: Genelec 8030 (bought secondhand for a lucky / good deal.)
Subs: 2x SVS SB1000 Pro (purchased one secondhand / one open box on eBay)
DAC: Topping DX5 Lite (XLR out to Genelecs, RCA out to subs)
DSP: UMIK + REW + EQAPO

At this point I think my sound quality is mainly limited by bad acoustics in my office. I generally only listen at 70-80dB so I don't need anything bigger. In-room at my listening level I am flat down to 20hz.

The missing item here is a separate output for subs with individual EQ and delays for the sub/mains. However, in a nearfield setup I don't think this is so bad, and I am going to look into allpass filters or FIR to linearize phase/timing between the subs and mains when I get a chance.

For comparable / cheaper performance, look at the Ascilab speakers, but my general advice is to look around at secondhand gear in your area, if you can.

 

[DVDdoug]

and for the "solution that will split the sound in 2.1"

Many subwoofers have a pass-through line-level crossover to block the bass from the main amplifier/speakers. That's the easiest solution if you're not using an AVR.

Note that since it's line-level you need active speakers or a separate power amp, etc.

And note that you won't get the "point one" LFE channel in movies without a surround decoder. Of course the subwoofer still gets the regular bass from the other channels and from stereo music.

 

[asteroth]

Guys, I want to apologize for not answering for so long, it's been a really busy period in my life.

Back to the topic, I got a good deal on a pair of JBL LSR305P MK2 and I decided to start my journey with them.
Currently I'm feeding them with a SMSL C200 DAC.

I haven't prepared for any room eq yet.

Right now, I'm listening to them and I see why these speakers are so loved, especially for their price, they feel detailed, they sound very clean.
In my room, the sub-bass feels more than adequate, so I might not want to add a subwoofer for now., but I would have liked a more punchy sound in the drums area.
For example, I remember enjoying how punchy these ones sounded: https://dynaudio.com/discontinued-models/contour/contour-13-mk-ii#product_specifications
But it's based on memories, it's not a proper A/B comparison.

I will update once I start with your eq-ing suggestions.

 

[voodooless]

I would have liked a more punchy sound in the drums area

Those are usually the lower mid-frequencies. Giving them a slight boost may help. What is your boundary EQ setting? Setting it to 0dB might help. Also, the treble seems slightly hot according to Erin's review, so HF trim to -2 dB might help as well. Possibly that would give enough of a tonal shift to bring back the punch a bit. Otherwise, more EQ would be needed. But note that the Dynaudio has a significantly bigger woofer, so it can displace quite a bit more air. Adding a subwoofer usually does not bring more punch because a sub is usually < 80 Hz, and the punch is generally just above that. The preference of most people is a slight bass boost below 150 Hz, so that might also fit in your case.

 

[asteroth]

1. Max volume sometimes now enough:
-10dbu set on the back, a pair of TRS cables, but unbalanced, and a SMSL C200 DAC, which should have balanced TRS.
On a few youtube songs, via BT, the max volume is not sufficient enough for me.
Could this be caused by my unbalanced TRS cables or -10dbu instead of +4dbu?

2. Looking for the best way to calibrate an ECM8000(or equivalent) after a Soundworks factory calibrated microphone.
Any suggestions?
I saw this: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/diy-microphone-calibration.64377/
But is it the best way?

rew+rephase+camilladsp will follow, at least for curiosity to see how much difference it will be.

 

[kemmler3D]

1. Max volume sometimes now enough:
-10dbu set on the back, a pair of TRS cables, but unbalanced, and a SMSL C200 DAC, which should have balanced TRS.
On a few youtube songs, via BT, the max volume is not sufficient enough for me.
Could this be caused by my unbalanced TRS cables or -10dbu instead of +4dbu?

2. Looking for the best way to calibrate an ECM8000(or equivalent) after a Soundworks factory calibrated microphone.
Any suggestions?
I saw this: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/diy-microphone-calibration.64377/
But is it the best way?

rew+rephase+camilladsp will follow, at least for curiosity to see how much difference it will be.

If it's too quiet, I would probably switch to +4dBU.

 

[asteroth]

If it's too quiet, I would probably switch to +4dBU.

But from what I read, it shouldn't just add a boost from -10dbu to +4dbu. I understood that you have to have proper equipment that provides them up to 8V of input, instead of 2V. I haven't switched it yet because I don't want to fry something.

And, also I think I need balanced TRS cables, right now, I have the simple 2 wire TRS cables.

 

[voodooless]

If it's too quiet, I would probably switch to +4dBU.

Would that not lower the gain? From the manual:

Set this switch to +4dBu to protect from overload when connecting toprofessional equipment and sources with high output level capabilities. Set this switch to -10dBV whenconnecting to lower-level consumer-grade audio equipment or to the LSR310S subwoofer.

And why on earth are they mixing dBu and dBV

As for SPL, the 305 is rated at only 94 dB continuous, 108 dB peak. Don't expect ear-shattering levels from a 5" woofer.

 

[asteroth]

I bought an ECM8000 mic, which is uncalibrated(i will try to calibrate it later), and I was anxious to attempt some things with it an REW.
I had some issues because REW either said that the signal is clipping/distortion or signal not strong enough, but i tried to calibrate the speakers with the signal in this "lower" range.

The values are pretty wild:

Filter Settings file

Room EQ V5.31.3
Dated: Jan 6, 2026 8:04:31 PM

Notes:

Equaliser: Generic
L1 uncal-ECM-50vol
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 29.50 Hz Gain 4.60 dB Q 2.640
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 29.55 Hz Gain -11.20 dB Q 12.097
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 52.80 Hz Gain -10.90 dB Q 5.820
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 99.20 Hz Gain -4.20 dB Q 7.955
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 120.5 Hz Gain -9.90 dB Q 13.684
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 123.5 Hz Gain 4.80 dB Q 5.763
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 198.5 Hz Gain -9.60 dB Q 3.642
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 217.0 Hz Gain 5.30 dB Q 2.691
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 271.0 Hz Gain 5.00 dB Q 7.031
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 284.0 Hz Gain -7.00 dB Q 4.984
Filter 11: ON PK Fc 488.0 Hz Gain -5.70 dB Q 3.628
Filter 12: ON PK Fc 697.0 Hz Gain -2.60 dB Q 4.645
Filter 13: ON PK Fc 798.0 Hz Gain -5.10 dB Q 4.988
Filter 14: ON PK Fc 986.0 Hz Gain 3.00 dB Q 1.006
Filter 15: ON PK Fc 1381 Hz Gain -2.90 dB Q 4.639
Filter 16: ON PK Fc 2125 Hz Gain -3.80 dB Q 1.061
Filter 17: ON PK Fc 4446 Hz Gain -4.50 dB Q 1.001
Filter 18: ON PK Fc 9760 Hz Gain -7.60 dB Q 1.001
Filter 19: ON PK Fc 14379 Hz Gain -7.10 dB Q 1.467
Filter 20: ON PK Fc 17719 Hz Gain -7.30 dB Q 3.332
Filter 1: ON None
Filter 2: ON None

Filter Settings file

Room EQ V5.31.3
Dated: Jan 6, 2026 8:01:22 PM

Notes:

Equaliser: Generic
R1 uncal-ECM-50vol
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 53.30 Hz Gain -9.90 dB Q 10.689
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 58.10 Hz Gain 1.60 dB Q 7.050
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 84.80 Hz Gain -8.10 dB Q 9.155
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 87.20 Hz Gain 3.10 dB Q 3.098
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 132.5 Hz Gain 2.30 dB Q 7.483
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 144.5 Hz Gain -11.20 dB Q 12.382
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 179.0 Hz Gain -6.10 dB Q 7.795
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 244.0 Hz Gain 8.90 dB Q 2.852
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 266.0 Hz Gain -14.60 dB Q 4.979
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 293.0 Hz Gain 9.00 dB Q 6.615
Filter 11: ON PK Fc 374.0 Hz Gain -9.30 dB Q 1.481
Filter 12: ON PK Fc 468.0 Hz Gain 5.80 dB Q 3.370
Filter 13: ON PK Fc 799.0 Hz Gain -4.40 dB Q 4.955
Filter 14: ON PK Fc 1015 Hz Gain 1.00 dB Q 3.257
Filter 15: ON PK Fc 1919 Hz Gain -2.40 dB Q 2.279
Filter 16: ON PK Fc 3118 Hz Gain -3.60 dB Q 1.010
Filter 17: ON PK Fc 4144 Hz Gain -1.60 dB Q 4.550
Filter 18: ON PK Fc 7784 Hz Gain -5.50 dB Q 1.005
Filter 19: ON PK Fc 13187 Hz Gain -7.00 dB Q 1.008
Filter 20: ON PK Fc 17400 Hz Gain -5.90 dB Q 2.219
Filter 1: ON None
Filter 2: ON None