Subwoofer Surround Repair - Ideal Glue?

[mike7877]

A friend of mine had a party in his studio and his powered subwoofer was unattended for a while, and when he eventually got back to it, the surround was half detached from the cone (a quarter on either side).

Obviously it was beyond repair, so I decided to order a rubber surround of approximately the same thickness and lip to match the original [10' woofer]

The cone is quite stable even without the surround, so I'm going to try gluing it freehand. There are two surrounds in the $12 pack, so if I end up having to cut out the dust cap and get a replacement for $5 then so be it...

I'm wondering what the best glue would be for the rubber surround to attach it to the stamped steel basket and the glass composite cone...


In case anyone's curious the model is PreSonus T10

 

[G|force]

 

[OldHvyMec]

I have ordered many surround kits, and every single kit came with its own preferred glue. Go back to where you ordered the surrounds from and order the glue there.

If you are looking to reuse the existing surround because it is separated from the cone, you can go to Parts Express.

I looked, they have glue or both foam and butyl rubber surrounds

Search results for "surround glue"

Regards

 

[Petrushka]

I have ordered many surround kits, and every single kit came with its own preferred glue. Go back to where you ordered the surrounds from and order the glue there.

If you are looking to reuse the existing surround because it is separated from the cone, you can go to Parts Express.

I looked, they have glue or both foam and butyl rubber surrounds

Search results for "surround glue"

Regards

A friend of mine had a party in his studio and his powered subwoofer was unattended for a while, and when he eventually got back to it, the surround was half detached from the cone (a quarter on either side).

Obviously it was beyond repair, so I decided to order a rubber surround of approximately the same thickness and lip to match the original [10' woofer]

The cone is quite stable even without the surround, so I'm going to try gluing it freehand. There are two surrounds in the $12 pack, so if I end up having to cut out the dust cap and get a replacement for $5 then so be it...

I'm wondering what the best glue would be for the rubber surround to attach it to the stamped steel basket and the glass composite cone...


In case anyone's curious the model is PreSonus T10

All the kits I’ve ordered from reputable speaker repair shops have come with white glue. Like Tacky Glue. There are archival white glues intended for books.

No surround I’ve done has ever come loose.

 

[OldHvyMec]

All the kits I’ve ordered from reputable speaker repair shops have come with white glue. Like Tacky Glue.

Big lip or high excursion butyl rubber surrounds used in competition subs have to use a lot tougher cement that is more like silicone than the white-tac they use on low to medium excursion surrounds for bass and HiFi subs.

Like I posted, they have BOTH at Parts Express. Click on the reference at the bottom of my post or to the right ----------> Search results for "surround glue"

Many of the speakers I've built, including magnetizing the magnets, soldering in the new VC/cone asy, adding BR surrounds, sizing and sealing the phase plug hole with a PP (phase plug) sealing ring on WCF (Woven Carbon Fiber) cones, all used black rubber cement. The cement is nothing like the white tack for foams.

White-tac is non-hardening and very easy to work with for silks, accordion wire fabric, foams, or handmade surrounds.

Buytal rubber and silicone surrounds will blow apart using the tack for foams vs cement for the aforementioned. The white-tac simply will not hold up.

I'm sure I have a pic or two of my finished drivers, less the wooden phase plugs I make. I cut them per application. Bid-bass couplers, bass drivers or subs. The difference is the size of the cone, ferite material (whether single or double stack), and then the length and shape of the phase plug.

If this is a butyl rubber surround (which I suspect it is), the failure might be avoided again by using the better cement. I just chucked out 5 or 6 VC/Cones/surrounds that split the rubber, BUT the cement held up. If they had used white-tac, they would have failed the first hour of competition against those over 2+ years old and severely abused.

PSI Platform series 3-5

Platform 5 Series

psicaraudio.com

There are HiFi speakers. Pro and competition drivers, it's best not to get any of them confused or how they are built. If the glue failed and they are BR surrounds they used the wrong glue or expired glue (I've ran into that a few times.)

Regards