Subwoofer Misery

[DeadBeatAnon]

My Polk PSW-10 is a reliable budget sub I’ve owned for 10 years. It’s perched at the end of my fireplace in the corner of my living room. I use an RCA digital coax cable from my HTR LFE out to the PSW-10 LFE input. I was recently moving my sub around, and SHEARED OFF the coax cable, the cable prong stuck inside the sub’s LFE input jack. I thought, ok—not a complete disaster, since the sub has two LFE inputs (right & left) and I’m using a single cable. So I replace the coax cable, plug it into the available LFE input, move the sub to the desired position and SHEAR OFF the new cable(!). I now have two severed prongs stuck in both LFE inputs.

Unbelievable, Darwin Award winner. A painful lesson learned: unplug the LFE cable before moving the sub. So I remove the sub's power cable, then unscrew the back panel to take a look. There’s no way to remove those cable prongs without doing major surgery on the back components. So guess who's in the market for a new sub. I’m currently looking at the SVS SB-1000 Pro ($599) and the REL HT/1003 ($699). Any recommendations or catcalls welcome. Due to limited space, I’m leaning towards the SVS, which has a (slightly) smaller footprint.

 

[davmol]

This video has an interesting method to extract the pins, using a heated nail into the plastic core. Might be worth a try?

If you still want a new sub then at least you could still sell or trade-in the old one if you can get the pins out.

 

[Sokel]

A little stick and some strong glue can do the job just fine.

 

[DeadBeatAnon]

Ah ok. Now I need to dig my sub out of the trash bin and try these two methods. Just wondering if in my stupid fury I damaged my sub by dropping it in the bin. Thanks guys.

 

[DeadBeatAnon]

Davmol, your suggestion worked beautifully. I heated an awl instead of using a nail + pliers. I held the awl in a candle flame for 30 seconds; then pressed the awl into each pin for 30 seconds, then slowly pulled out. Both pins came out easily. I've got another coax cable on order via Amazon, thanks so much. Pic attached.

 

[Keith_W]

Bummer! And I was on my way to your rubbish bin!

 

[Spkrdctr]

I think you are a very lucky person. A 10 year old sub and it is still working! Amazing......

 

[DeadBeatAnon]

I think you are a very lucky person. A 10 year old sub and it is still working! Amazing......

I still don't understand how I sheared both coax cables. The cables weren't tight--there was plenty of slack in both cables. The sub is approx 4 feet away from the receiver. The original cable was a 6ft coax and the replacement cable was 12ft. However, the sub sits on the fireplace masonry, which is about a foot off the ground.
And it's a tight fit between the sub and the cabinet/wall. So whenever I mess with the sub, I tend to rock/tilt it forward at the edge of the fireplace. I think that's how I sheared both cables.

 

[CDMC]

Well, since you planned to spend the money, you could grab a another sub now and enjoy the benefits of having two subs. RSL has two choices for under $500 that would be a good value.

 

[respice finem]

Crappy cables also exist. I had one stuck center pin by just straightly pulling the cable off, and at least once an outside "leaf" fell off. It's been so long ago, I don't remember when, but I guess in the late 80s. IIRC I got the center pin out by pushing from the inside.
Stuff happens... Since then, I tend to buy the second cheapest cables, instead of the cheapest.

 

[101geo]

I think you are a very lucky person. A 10 year old sub and it is still working! Amazing......

I have 2 over 20 years old and working perfectly

 

[respice finem]

I have 2 over 20 years old and working perfectly

But passive?

 

[101geo]

But passive?

No, The old school REL Stadium III's. They will be going passive soon though only because I want better amplification and to be able to use DSP cleanly.

 

[Ruediger]

Is there an age limit on active subwoofers? My oldest is 15 years and doing like always. The only thing needing work was the remote getting sticky.

 

[respice finem]

Hard age limit, no, but since they are often "the hardest workers" in a system, I would expect accelerated aging of their electronics.

 

[101geo]

Hard age limit, no, but since they are often "the hardest workers" in a system, I would expect accelerated aging of their electronics.

The caps on one of mine are bulging slightly but it still works fine. No point in changing them as the whole lot will be ripped out soon.

 

[Spkrdctr]

I have 2 over 20 years old and working perfectly

Good gosh man! You need to be buying lottery tickets you are so lucky. While your at it buy a few for me too! LOL

 

[Spkrdctr]

There is no age limit but Subs are notorious for having the plate amps die. It is well known in the industry and is why many buy SVS subs as you can usually get a new plate amp sent to you rather than being told they don't have any. After the purchase repair is a big deal with subs and I know SVS is known for fantastic service and help. RSL is a good company but I know nothing about their repair or after purchase support. Heck I had a super cheap Yamaha sub that lasted for many, many years and I beat that thing to death. I finally gave it to someone for free when I replaced it with a high dollar big sub. What I liked about the cheap Yamaha was it had an internal limiter so you could just run it on 11 on the volume and it would not destroy itself. Good products like that are harder to find nowadays.

 

[Ruediger]

So if the plate amp goes bad at some age - can't I just open the subwoofer and wire it passive? The terminal even has all the jacks. At least the models I have.

I have a bunch of svs (very pleased with them) and also some old Canton double-woofer.

 

[Spkrdctr]

So if the plate amp goes bad at some age - can't I just open the subwoofer and wire it passive? The terminal even has all the jacks. At least the models I have.

Sure you can if you want. Most people just buy a new sub. If nothing else it lets you check out your plate amp and see if it is just a blown up cap or other very easy fix.