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Subwoofer/DAC for Genelec 8020d or 8030c

Everett T

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Thank you very much for your detailed reply Static. I've been a tad confused on the 3000 micro.. it says the amplifier is 800 watts whereas the Genelec 7040a is only 50 watts, such an insane difference, am I reading something wrong? I don't really need to shake the entire house although I suppose the power would be nice if I decided to go with 8030's instead of 8020's. Additionally, for the DAC I had somewhat narrowed down to the SMSL SU-9n or Topping E70.. are these overkill for my purpose? Thanks again.
Just remember that amplifier power has to do with design and not a tool to base performance on. Ported designs, especially larger ones, need less power typically. The amplifier is just their to acheive the desired goal of the designer.
 

Trell

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Sure, I checked out that song but don't think it's the same "type" of bass if you know what I'm saying lol. Here's a link with exact time, it's about a 20-30 second segment of low bass, let me know how the 7040 performs if you have a chance to. Thank you!


Here is an other bass-heavy clip where the deep bass starts 22 seconds in. Using GLM I can quickly turn bass management on/off, so without the 7360A subwoofer the track is anaemic using only the 8330A monitors.

My guess is that the 7040 will run out of steam pretty quickly even at moderate volume level when there is much deep bass.

 
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strea

strea

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Here is an other bass-heavy clip where the deep bass starts 22 seconds in. Using GLM I can quickly turn bass management on/off, so without the 7360A subwoofer the track is anaemic using only the 8330A monitors.

My guess is that the 7040 will run out of steam pretty quickly even at moderate volume level when there is much deep bass.

Cool track, will look forward to trying this when I finally get my new setup.
 

Trell

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I sound like a broken record but this is something whose importance cannot be overestimated. In many untreated rooms there are one or two horrible peaks in bass frequencies, 10, 15 even 20dB. Fixing those with room correction brings so big difference that all other tweaks seem miniscule in comparision.

The thing is that if you haven't experienced smooth bass response you can take the boomy bass, maybe lowering the sub volume a lot, and you still get something out of the sub. But when you finally apply room correction you will have that aha-moment: this is how it's supposed to sound. And for a short while you might be a little underwhelmed in some songs but after some time you can't ever go back to the boom city.

A record well worth repeating, and just levelling down the mountains helps and if one has a subwoofer one can place that for more even bass.

Below is from my 2.1 setup where I chose a crossover of 95 Hz to avoid some a big dip (but not perfect, of course, but better). The crossover slope Genelec uses is a steep 48 dB/octave.

Not much I can do to better place the monitors, but have more leeway in subwoofer placement.

Left monitor:
1676654268897.png

Right monitor:
1676654085962.png


Subwoofer:
1676654118536.png
 
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strea

strea

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A record well worth repeating, and just levelling down the mountains helps and if one has a subwoofer one can place that for more even bass.

Below is from my 2.1 setup where I chose a crossover of 95 Hz to avoid some a big dip (but not perfect, of course, but better). The crossover slope Genelec uses is a steep 48 dB/octave.

Left monitor:
View attachment 265417
Right monitor:
View attachment 265414

Subwoofer:
View attachment 265415
Do you know if I can use Equalizer APO to high pass my monitors and not affect my subwoofer if they are both coming out of the Topping E70?

Or does this require additional equipment? I suppose what I'm asking is can Equalizer APO identify the monitors vs. the subwoofer and alter their responses individually rather than as a whole? That way I can relieve the monitors of the 45hz and below stress and work on that crossover between the monitors and subwoofer manually.
 

Trell

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Do you know if I can use Equalizer APO to high pass my monitors and not affect my subwoofer if they are both coming out of the Topping E70?

Or does this require additional equipment? I suppose what I'm asking is can Equalizer APO identify the monitors vs. the subwoofer and alter their responses individually rather than as a whole? That way I can relieve the monitors of the 45hz and below stress and work on that crossover between the monitors and subwoofer manually.

The XLR and RCA outputs on that unit are duplicates of each other (I've not checked if the XLR have 6dB more output than RCA, as one would expect), so that is not possible.

The 8030C have some dip-switches for some bass roll-off that might work for you as a high-pass filter. Having a subwoofer that can do crossover for you, like the Genelec subwoofers, will make it much easier to apply room EQ from software as you apply it just to the stereo signal. Where I to use an analog monitor like 8030C getting a subwoofer that could do crossover for a 2.1 setup would be high on my list.

Some use a miniDSP as an extra box between the DAC and the monitors/subwoofer for crossover as well as room EQ.

Personally, I chose Genelec monitors and subwoofer with DSP so I could use their GLM software for EQ and other settings, and those are all stored in the monitors and subwoofer. Cost quite a bit more but much more convenient for me in desktop setup: I didn't want that other, for me, hassle.

From the 8030C manual:


1676655100889.png
 

ZolaIII

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If you insist on Genelec's or something else with only balanced inputs take a look at MiniDSP SHD it costs the same as RME ADI-2 but come with some extras (streaming, UMIK-1, Dirac live...). I think you don't need more than SVS SB 1000 Pro as a sub. Try to spare for room acoustic treatment (cuple of acoustic dumper panels and corner one's for the wall behind speakers). Don't go with unbalanced DAC cable converter with Genelec's (losing half feed gain 2 vs 4 V).

Edit: general problem with high pass filter is that it neads separate chanel on the same DAC meaning two channels DAC's don't fit it. And don't count to much on SVS software either.
 
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Trell

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If you insist on Genelec's or something else with only balanced inputs take a look at MiniDSP SHD it costs the same as RME ADI-2 but come with some extras (streaming, UMIK-1, Dirac live...). I think you don't need more than SVS SB 1000 Pro as a sub. Try to spare for room acoustic treatment (cuple of acoustic dumper panels and corner one's for the wall behind speakers). Don't go with unbalanced DAC cable converter with Genelec's (losing half feed gain 2 vs 4 V).

You mean the RME ADI-2 DAC FS as there is a RME ADI-2 that is just a converter with no USB.

With the miniDSP SHD he don't need the Topping E70, so save some money there as well.
 
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strea

strea

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You mean the RME ADI-2 DAC FS as there is a RME ADI-2 that is just a converter with no USB.

With the miniDSP SHD he don't need the Topping E70, so save some money there as well.
Interesting, I suppose the miniDSP SHD is definitely up for consideration then. Would the room correction work with the Micro 3000 even though it has it's own low pass filter / app etc.

Best practice would probably be to set the Micro 3000 to full range or LPF off and let miniDSP SHD do the work?
 

Trell

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Interesting, I suppose the miniDSP SHD is definitely up for consideration then. Would the room correction work with the Micro 3000 even though it has it's own low pass filter / app etc.
You won’t be needing that functionality of the subwoofer for room EQ in general, so you’ll have a much wider range of subwoofers to choose among, with or without XLR input.

That said, in my HT I’ve two SVS SB-3000 that have PEQ that I use after an Audyssey calibration for adjustments by measurements using the free REW. My old Denon AVR don’t have the app for Audyssey adjustments.

If you buy the minidsp you’ll need a measurement microphone and the UMIK-1 from them works just fine for this, so skip the UMIK-2.
 

ivayvr

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Bodhi
I sound like a broken record but this is something whose importance cannot be overestimated. In many untreated rooms there are one or two horrible peaks in bass frequencies, 10, 15 even 20dB. Fixing those with room correction brings so big difference that all other tweaks seem miniscule in comparision.

The thing is that if you haven't experienced smooth bass response you can take the boomy bass, maybe lowering the sub volume a lot, and you still get something out of the sub. But when you finally apply room correction you will have that aha-moment: this is how it's supposed to sound. And for a short while you might be a little underwhelmed in some songs but after some time you can't ever go back to the boom city.
Not at all! My equipment selection was based solely on my financial position. Also Genelec sub has dip switches to address the most common room modes. Far from ideal but better than nothing!
 

ZolaIII

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MiniDSP is pretty much a Swiss army knife (from what's available and mesured up to date, especially in SHD form). You have 10 PEQ (including filters like low/high pass or Linkwitz-Riley if you wish) per bank (I/O) independently, RIF tap convoler (for REW tho you need to export raw 32 bit float file and change extension) and Dirac Live (for models supporting it and when you pay licences which is included in SHD with the price and so is UMIK-1).
Of course you can combine them and that is a best practice if you ask me (lining them up and applying simple PEQs to do bigger corrections and then adding RIF or Dirac).
 

ivayvr

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Nice to hear some love for the 7040a. How is the low end extension.. take a track like "305 to my city" from Drake, it has 29hz peaks right at the start of the song. Does the 7040 have any dig to it / does it represent 30hz region well?
Finally I had a chance to hear both "305 to my city" and the seesayer. Both sound scary! I did not play them too loud but both have what I would call "extreme energy". Now I understand the song I suggested to be a "different kind of bass". I don't have a frequency meter but the sound was very clear and definitely the deepest I ever heard on my system. The only other comparison I could make was to listen to both tracks on my Sony MDR 7506 headphones and and the bass was much, much deeper on the sub than on the headphones.
 

Doctors11

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Another option for a subwoofer you might consider would be the MartinLogan Dynamo 800x. It has full app control, built in Anthem Room Correction, and can be configured as down or front firing. In the front firing position it's only 12.7 inches deep.

 

staticV3

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@Doctors11 it's too big. From post #1:
Otherwise, suggestions for alternative subs should have a width OR depth of no greater than 11" or 12". For example, a sub can be 15" H x 13" W x 11" D and that is okay, 15" H x 11" W x 13" D is okay as well, but 15" x 13" W x 13" D is NOT okay.
The Dynamo 800X is 14.6" x 12.4" x 12.7", so doesn't fit the requirements. W and D are both >12"
The Dynamo 700w on the other hand, would fit.
 

Tangband

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Hello all and thank you for your time. I've spent weeks now reading the forums/researching and still don't have the confidence to move forward on a purchase. Therefore, looking for some personalized advice.

Purpose of setup: Listening to music - No mixing/mastering
Room size: 11 ft x 11 ft x 9 ft - Room has thick carpet and a large bed
Listening distance: 2 feet away - Monitors will go on computer desk
Total budget: 3-4K

I have narrowed down that I like the sound of Genelec 8020d's, not sure if I need the 8030's as I will go for a subwoofer (low-end is a requirement for my listening). Any input here is appreciated.

As far as the subwoofer goes, I don't have a ton of space under my desk. I was considering the Genelec 7040a, but not sure if it would be underwhelming. Perhaps it will be okay for a room of my size? I'm not looking to shake the whole house. Otherwise, suggestions for alternative subs should have a width OR depth of no greater than 11" or 12". For example, a sub can be 15" H x 13" W x 11" D and that is okay, 15" H x 11" W x 13" D is okay as well, but 15" x 13" W x 13" D is NOT okay.

For the DAC, I was planning on RME ADI-2 DAC, but I read you need attenuators to allow the RME ADI-2 DAC to shine to it's full potential when matched with the Genelecs. I don't think I want to use those. Is there a DAC with a volume pot that will work well with the Genelecs out of the box? Looking for recommendations here.

Please let me know if you have any questions of me, thank you.
You will need a subwoofer and crossover with the correct slopes, both HP and LP . This is far more important than any power specs .

Genelec 8030c or 8020 ( slightly worse )
Genelec 7040 ( probably far better integration with 8030c than SVS 3000 = better sound )
Focusrite have good sounding interfaces from 200 bucks, RME ADI-2 is good but maybe overkill.

With this solution you will run balanced xlr cables from the interface to the 7040 that has the inbuilt crossover, then from 7040 to your 8030c , all balanced.

Here is a good thread :


90885691-371A-405B-B03D-66CCDB05F811.jpeg
 
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strea

strea

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You will need a subwoofer and crossover with the correct slopes, both HP and LP . This is far more important than any power specs .

Genelec 8030c or 8020 ( slightly worse )
Genelec 7040 ( probably far better integration with 8030c than SVS 3000 = better sound )
Focusrite have good sounding interfaces from 200 bucks, RME ADI-2 is good but maybe overkill.

With this solution you will run balanced xlr cables from the interface to the 7040 that has the inbuilt crossover, then from 7040 to your 8030c , all balanced.

Here is a good thread :


View attachment 266002
I ended up going with a set of 8030C's and one 7050C. I'm just going to pull my desk off the wall a couple inches to better fit the depth (really didn't want to do this), but hearing about how the 8030C's become distorted in the lower frequencies when played loud made me realize I need an HP filter above all and I don't think the 7040a goes low enough for my needs. Therefore, 7050C it is.

PC -> Topping E70 -> 7050C -> 8030C
Mogami Gold 6ft XLR's for the whole setup.
Going to get a UMIK-1 as well for room calibration later on.

Appreciate everyone's help here and will report back with impressions once it's all setup.
 
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strea

strea

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If anyone has any recommendations for input sensitivity setting for the 8030's and 7050 for a PC -> Topping E70 -> XLR's connect, please advise. Pretty confused on what those should be set to even after reading the manuals.

8030 offers +6 to -6
7050 offers +12 to -6

1676903244928.png
 
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Digby

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set to the lowest gain that allows you to get the loudest volume you need. You have more sensitivity in volume control and likely lower noise (hiss) then.
 
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