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Subwoofer connection

Mark1

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Limited knowledge newbie here so excuse the simple question and lack of links and pics I'd like to post.. I want to finally connect my powered subwoofer JBL Northridge E150P to my Sony STR-DE197 receiver, which doesn't have subwoofer out. The receiver does have Video out and Minidisk/Tape out. I mostly, exclusively right now, play FM. I wasn't sure if the video out would feed sub in FM or only a video input signal, but I assume I'd have receiver volume control. If not, I think the Tape out will output whatever source I'm playing like FM, but I wasn't sure if it is fixed level output and no volume control. (edit both video and md/tape audio out play FM only at fixed volume) The sub does have speaker level inputs, but if I had to go that low fidelity route, I don't think I'd bother. I suppose I could try hooking up the sub and find out but I wanted to ask here first :).
 
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Had a quick look at the manuals and yes, it looks like using the high level inputs on the sub (wired in parallel with your L and R speakers) is the recommended method given the capabilities of your receiver.

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Hi @Mark1! Welcome to ASR.

The STR-DE197 can indeed output Line level audio via either the MD/TAPE Out, or the VIDEO 1 Audio Out port, but I suspect that these will not scale in volume with the Speaker output.

In that case, your only option is to use the Sub's Speaker level inputs.
 


Manuals for the equipment. I just realized I think I'm going to need another RCA cable as I have only one that was hooked up to a Sony STR-DE595 that has sub out. I don't want to use the 595 because I don't like the ideal of multichannel AVRs, but mostly because like all the newer ones it doesn't have direct channel presets which I must have lol.
 
I wouldn't worry that much about speaker level inputs.....altho a sub pre-out and bass management would be preferable.
 
Actually it looks as though your receiver (the Sony STR-DE197) has A and B speaker outputs. So you should be able to just connect the high level sub inputs to the B speaker connectors with some speaker wire.

Then you should set the receiver to output on both A and B speakers.
 
Welcome to ASR. I would suggest consulting the manual for your receiver. I tried to look up your manual, but Hi-Fi Engine has disabled registration for new users and I can't seem to retrieve my old account (deleted after 3 years). Their landing page is here.

I did manage to google an image of the rear of your receiver.

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Do not use the tape loop (MD/TAPE IN/OUT). These are usually independent of the volume control and will blow up your subwoofer if you are not careful.

You will likely have success with VIDEO AUDIO OUT. Before you connect it to your subwoofer, check the output with a digital multimeter (DMM) and make sure that the output varies with volume. If you don't have a DMM, turn the volume on the sub almost all the way down and connect it to the receiver. Then increase the volume on the receiver and check if there is output on your sub by lightly touching the cone.

The last option is to connect it with high level input. You are correct to be wary of doing this, especially since some poorly designed subs might send negative to the ground and blow up your amplifier. Before attempting to connect your receiver to the sub, you MUST check the + and - inputs of your subwoofer with a DMM. The difference between + and - needs to be at least 100 Ohms. If not, you can wire a 100 Ohm resistor in series with the black terminal. After this, you should be able to use the high level inputs on your sub safely.
 
Had a quick look at the manuals and yes, it looks like using the high level inputs on the sub (wired in parallel with your L and R speakers) is the recommended method given the capabilities of your receiver.

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Thanks for the reply. I have no idea what impedance I'd end up with to my receiver connecting the sub and full range speakers in parallel , but I'm thinking lower and more amp distortion. Then I'm thinking, that speaker level input will already be higher distortion amplified signal than would line level input, and that it would go through a passive crossover instead of active (although that's probably not correct). I'm thinking too much distortion to the sub and the full range lol.
 
With the video in out loop would that still allow the FM radio to be used? OP said this was needed.

I kind of doubt it. Wouldn't you have to select the video input and the only be able to use the subwoofer with whichever device was connected to the video in?


Edit: It does seem that it might be possible to route the tuner to the video tape loop. But I still think your best bet is the high level connections.

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I was just looking at the hifiengine page and manual for the 197. I don't think the video loop will work but worth a try but it seems its still fixed line level.

The high level inputs won't particularly affect impedance load on the receiver's amp, tho....not the same as using passive speakers.
 
Matt, I was thinking the same thing to use B speaker output to sub rather than A, as how would I get two speaker wires into one those cheesy little receiver speaker connecters.

Keith, I do have a DMM. Sony manual says video out is 500mv 10kOhm. But do you think video output feeds whatever source is playing such as FM and not just the video input? Checking RCA output voltage and impedance with DMM, I connect positive lead in the center and common lead to the outside of the connections, AC scale, correct? Like I said I'm pretty limited with electronics.
 
I was just looking at the hifiengine page and manual for the 197. I don't think the video loop will work but worth a try but it seems its still fixed line level.

The high level inputs won't particularly affect impedance load on the receiver's amp, tho....not the same as using passive speakers.
I think with the video loop like with TV audio in at a fixed level the receiver does have volume control, but I won't be using a video in of course just FM. It's good to know speaker level input to this powered sub won't affect impedance on the receiver amp, but I'm thinking it won't sound as clean as it could/should and if I can't use the video out to the subwoofer, I just won't use the sub. The speakers really need the sub though. The matching full range JBL E30s alone are kind weak on bass. What I really need is a Yamaha R-N800 :), but it's not in the budget and I have to have direct presets on the receiver.
 
I'd just use your avr myself if its available. One way to find out if it makes odd noises....hook it up. The E30s could definitely use some help down low. Then again that sub doesn't go all that low either.
 
I'd just use your avr myself if its available. One way to find out if it makes odd noises....hook it up. The E30s could definitely use some help down low. Then again that sub doesn't go all that low either.
I hooked the one RCA cable I had to one channel of the video output and sub input and it played the FM source but had no volume control. I didn't expect it to play FM but did think it would have volume control. I hooked sub to tape audio out and the same thing fixed volume which is what I expected. I don't know what the deal is with the video out being fixed. Either way it's too much bass at low stereo volume.

Yeah, the AVR would work best but I'm hung up on having direct presets. What is your opinion of the JBL Northridge speakers? I assumed they were good, but I don't seem to be getting all that great sound quality and fullness as I had with other speakers IK had in the past such as Polk that were floor standing (that was late 1990s to early 200s with a Yamaha receiver). I think my current room has bad acoustics. The Sony 595 I'm not using has room correction, I think.

PS. Does anyone think anything was harmed connecting sub to tape out. The full range audio did seem to sound different but might've been my imagination.
 
I hooked the one RCA cable I had to one channel of the video output and sub input and it played the FM source but had no volume control. I didn't expect it to play FM but did think it would have volume control. I hooked sub to tape audio out and the same thing fixed volume which is what I expected. I don't know what the deal is with the video out being fixed. Either way it's too much bass at low stereo volume.

Yeah, the AVR would work best but I'm hung up on having direct presets. What is your opinion of the JBL Northridge speakers? I assumed they were good, but I don't seem to be getting all that great sound quality and fullness as I had with other speakers IK had in the past such as Polk that were floor standing (that was late 1990s to early 200s with a Yamaha receiver). I think my current room has bad acoustics. The Sony 595 I'm not using has room correction, I think.

PS. Does anyone think anything was harmed connecting sub to tape out. The full range audio did seem to sound different but might've been my imagination.
Yeah you need proper pre-outs or a tape/processor loop of old to get volume control, otherwise they're just generally fixed line level connections these days. You can only adjust volume with the sub's gain control otherwise. What low pass filter setting are you using on the sub?

I like JBL, but never bought a Northridge model. I have some old 4312Bs, a full set of Studio 5 series (590/520c/580/530) and some LSR305s.

I used up my 3 downloads already today at hifiengine, so couldn't check your 595 manual....it might have their DCAC room correction, but it's on the poor side.

No, you should be fine using the tape/video connections except for volume control at the receiver. It might have been a bit odd using just one channel....
 
Yeah you need proper pre-outs or a tape/processor loop of old to get volume control, otherwise they're just generally fixed line level connections these days. You can only adjust volume with the sub's gain control otherwise. What low pass filter setting are you using on the sub?

I like JBL, but never bought a Northridge model. I have some old 4312Bs, a full set of Studio 5 series (590/520c/580/530) and some LSR305s.

I used up my 3 downloads already today at hifiengine, so couldn't check your 595 manual....it might have their DCAC room correction, but it's on the poor side.

No, you should be fine using the tape/video connections except for volume control at the receiver. It might have been a bit odd using just one channel....
I'm surprised video audio out doesn't have volume control. I used a Sony receiver for my TV audio in the past and controlled volume with the receiver, although, it was a different Sony AVR receiver. I don't remember how it was connected to the tv. I'm guessing if I could loop the FM which I can't (or a TV ) to the video in then the video out would have volume control if source is set to video, not sure it's all confusing. Edit never mind that doesn't even make sense lol. Probably just video input has volume control to speaker outputs and never to the video audio output.

As near as I could tell I had the sub's crossover active (not "LPE' setting) and crossover adjustment knob around 80hz. The sub gain from lowest and inaudible to when the sub became audible was like a light switch and too much bass for low stereo volume, probably because the line level is fixed., so no good.

I always had a high opinion of JBL and the Northridge speakers on the surface seem to be good quality. It's probably not good room acoustics. I mean the system sounds good to a large extent for FM even without the sub, clear, decent imaging, and better than any other system I currently have access to like new car "premium" sound systems, streaming music to a powered speaker, and of course cell phones and laptops, and restaurants and bar's sound systems lol. It just seems compared to my Yamaha/Polk system of yore, something's missing and kind of flat with my Sony/JBL sound system.
 
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I'm surprised video audio out doesn't have volume control. I used a Sony receiver for my TV audio in the past and controlled volume with the receiver, although, it was a different Sony AVR receiver. I don't remember how it was connected to the tv. I'm guessing if I could loop the FM which I can't (or a TV ) to the video in then the video out would have volume control if source is set to video, not sure it's all confusing. Edit never mind that doesn't even make sense lol. Probably just video input has volume control to speaker outputs and never to the video audio output.

As near as I could tell I had the sub's crossover active (not "LPE' setting) and crossover adjustment knob around 80hz. The sub gain from lowest and inaudible to when the sub became audible was like a light switch and too much bass for low stereo volume, probably because the line level is fixed., so no good.

I always had a high opinion of JBL and the Northridge speakers on the surface seem to be good quality. It's probably not good room acoustics. I mean the system sounds good to a large extent for FM even without the sub, clear, decent imaging, and better than any other system I currently have access to like new car "premium" sound systems, streaming music to a powered speaker, and of course cell phones and laptops, and restaurants and bar's sound systems lol. It just seems compared to my Yamaha/Polk system of yore, something's missing and kind of flat with my Sony/JBL sound system.
Audio gear with pre-outs has volume control. I wouldn't buy a receiver without a full set of pre-outs myself (not just a sub pre-out). I'd just use a tv as an input on an avr, and wouldn't use tv speakers. The tape/processor loops (or even pre-out/main-in connections) have gone by the wayside more and more over the years, partly lack of people tape recording and somewhat perhaps DRM reasons.

80 hz could yield too much of an overlap between sub and speakers, try turning that down....experiment. I don't know if that sub has an actual crossover, it doesn't appear so....so it is just a low pass filter (many subs call such a "crossover" even though it really isn't). If you had the LFE switch engaged that would take the low pass filter out of the circuit (as it is expecting bass management from a receiver). Experiment with sub placement, too.

I'd think modern JBL speakers are an improvement from what I remember about the Northridge series but not really on top of the JBL history thing for that time period. I've always enjoyed them, was up between JBL L100 and Advent Originals back when I bought my first good pair of speakers in 72. I went with Advents then, they sounded really good and were less $$, I was still in high school and the part time job was good, but not that good, especially supporting a car, too.

Better sound is generally obtained by better speakers, and not just brand alone, but specific model.

Good luck!
 
Audio gear with pre-outs has volume control. I wouldn't buy a receiver without a full set of pre-outs myself (not just a sub pre-out). I'd just use a tv as an input on an avr, and wouldn't use tv speakers. The tape/processor loops (or even pre-out/main-in connections) have gone by the wayside more and more over the years, partly lack of people tape recording and somewhat perhaps DRM reasons.

80 hz could yield too much of an overlap between sub and speakers, try turning that down....experiment. I don't know if that sub has an actual crossover, it doesn't appear so....so it is just a low pass filter (many subs call such a "crossover" even though it really isn't). If you had the LFE switch engaged that would take the low pass filter out of the circuit (as it is expecting bass management from a receiver). Experiment with sub placement, too.

I'd think modern JBL speakers are an improvement from what I remember about the Northridge series but not really on top of the JBL history thing for that time period. I've always enjoyed them, was up between JBL L100 and Advent Originals back when I bought my first good pair of speakers in 72. I went with Advents then, they sounded really good and were less $$, I was still in high school and the part time job was good, but not that good, especially supporting a car, too.

Better sound is generally obtained by better speakers, and not just brand alone, but specific model.

Good luck!
Yeah sub crossover probably just a low pass filter. It seems to be similar to whatever they use in aftermarket car audio amps. I would rather my bookshelves were high pass crossed over and not playing the sub frequencies at all. It's seems really hard to find a 2-channel receiver as opposed to AVR that has subwoofer output, leave alone pre outs and room correction etc, that isn't pricey top of the line. Then none of the newer stuff has direct presets on the receiver like I really want. Short of finding a vintage receiver with subwoofer out and preset buttons there's no way to get what I want in new receivers.

My JBL speakers and Sony receiver are about 20 years old now but I guess that's pretty modern maybe audio phonically better than their modern equivalents :).
 
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