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Stand-mounted vs. Floorstanding

"I was immediately drawn to the sf16’s neofuturistic styling. Its gentle curves reminded me of the iconic TWA Flight Center at New York’s JFK Airport—an aeronautic theme sustained by wing-like sound pods that sprout on command. Unusual and unique."
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/sonus-faber-sf16-music-system

IMHO, Bob Ankosko has his design taste in his butt.
Unusual, unique, and FUGLY is all I can think of when looking at that bug eyed looking thing.
Set it on the floor and drop a JBL M2 on it, then you'd have something to write about. LOL
 
You know what grinds my gears?

The mentality of some engineer types that worship at the alter of efficiency.
I'm not sure where you draw the line between "using an important measurement as one of the design goals/decision making process" and "obsession."

Efficiency is quite an important attribute for speakers intended for large rooms/spaces. Maybe you think you can obtain the same results by simply sending four times as many watts at a less efficient speaker, for example, but most of the time you'll be wrong. If it was that easy, you'd see lots of small speakers capable of both deep bass and high volume. You don't.

It's like getting obsessed with accuracy, or any obsession for that matter.

So what exactly is it that matters to you in speaker selection? Efficiency and frequency response don't matter, so, the color of the veneer?

I like my room, but I like my speakers more.

If you think you're hearing your speakers and not your room at low frequencies, you're just wrong. Your ears just don't work that way with long wavelengths. The two are inseparable at low frequencies.

The only time where the two are completely integrated is Klipsch corner horns, and as posted somewhere else in this forum they neither measure well nor sound accurate.

That's oblivious to the actual market place. There are thousands of commercial speakers designed with specific boundary reinforcement in mind. Everything from towers/bookshelves that call for being a specific distance from the wall (many active speakers have specific adjustments for it), to speakers designed to be mounted on a wall, to speakers designed to be installed in a wall....
 
And I would add, straight enough. Any bends in a horn and all bets are off. So, where shall we put that straight 20Hz horn.........
While a 20Hz horn would be cool :p we were only talking about needing it down to the point the directivity will fairly closely match the woofer. Lots of horn speakers can do that to below 1000 Hz. Curved horns can work OK for that.
 
While a 20Hz horn would be cool :p we were only talking about needing it down to the point the directivity will fairly closely match the woofer. Lots of horn speakers can do that to below 1000 Hz. Curved horns can work OK for that.
I'm not convinced. Tannoy's tweeter is a horn, concentric with the woofer, crossing over at 1kHz, and that has problems integrating properly with a 12 or 15" woofer. The Decca horn tweeter was also quite a good device, but the systems they were used in struggled as 2 ways.

Those of a certain age may remember the Goodmans Trebax and Midax horns. Those integrated pretty well with a 12" bass unit, albeit limited by the technology of the era. However, that resulted in a three way. Dropping the Midax really didn't work.

S.
 
The problem of thick absorbers needed to reduce the relatively low frequency standing wave in a floorstander vs. a Helmholtz resonator is that they also reduce the bass output, especially in the ported designs (so most of commercially available loudspeakers nowadays)
The absolute thickness is unimportant. For speakers of any form factor, the amount of fibrous damping required to treat air column resonances is proportionately similar. The resulting loss of vent efficiency is similar for short and tall speaker cabinets, depending on the volume portion occupied and such.
And again, with a tall cabinet come the options to break the chamber apart or placing woofers such that the modal coupling sums to a minimal value.
 
Is there a floorstander out there using similar directivity control tech to the D&D 8C? The only somewhat-comparable active I'm aware of is the JBL M2(not really the same) and I guess the Beolab 90, but that's way out of the price range and also really weird looking.

Almost all the high tech, active controlled directivity speakers seem to be bookshelf-sized studio monitors.
ME Geithain made cardioid speakers before D&D and makes them fully cardioid (down to 30 Hz). See https://www.me-geithain.de/en/rl-901k2.html for example:
RL-901K-Freifeld-eng.png

RL-901K-Kreisdiagramm-eng.png


https://www.me-geithain.de/en/me-804k.html or https://www.me-geithain.de/en/me-800k.html can be considered towers, I guess.
 
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I'm not convinced. Tannoy's tweeter is a horn....
The highest profile speaker that does a pretty good job is probably the JBL M2 (15" woofer). The JBL 4722 (popular with home theater guys) does a pretty good job. And of course numerous DIY designs (for Tannoy fans, take a look at the DIYSG Vortex 12/15).

I'm not saying it's easy or the speaker will be aesthetically pleasing to all people, but it can be done with a good design.
 
You know what grinds my gears?

The mentality of some engineer types that worship at the alter of efficiency.

I mean I get it and completely appreciate it most times, but when it blinds one to the inescapably obvious it's time to put the old efficiency and maximization thing to rest.

It's like getting obsessed with accuracy, or any obsession for that matter.

I just don't need my sub to sound any louder via room boundary phenomena, that's what the volume control dial is for.



I think I covered the rest of of your post. Just may add that their is a time and place for coupling, and a time and place for decoupling.

You must decided if you want to listen to your speakers or your room.

I like my room, but I like my speakers more.

The only time where the two are completely integrated is Klipsch corner horns, and as posted somewhere else in this forum they neither measure well nor sound accurate.

However Klipsch corner horns are very efficient, but in my opinion efficiency is not enough and not a sole reason for doing anything.
Insisting that towers playing full range, or subs placed right next to or under the main speakers is an antiquated, sub optimal 2 channel belief of the past. Yes, placing subs near boundaries does give some free sensitivity that will keep distortion lower and increase output without additional power. A benefit no matter how you look at it. The main advantage of multiple subwoofers is being able to place them *away* from the main speakers in the optimal positions for a smooth, accurate, high fidelity frequency response. Again, the goal is high fidelity.
 
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Geithains aren’t cardioid through the midrange, just bass.
They are slightly congested compared to the Kiis/8Cs.
Keith
Sure, but isn't the whole point of cardioid dispersion to avoid exciting room modes? If your dispersion is even, not being cardioid in the midrange isn't necessarily bad, as reflections will be tonally similar to the direct sound.
 
The stuff out of the front is still going to excite room modes, Dutch&Dutch used to make an 8M model , similar enclosure to the 8C but not cardioid and didn’t have the two rear bass drivers.
Apart from the bass extension the difference was the clearer , less congested midrange.
Keith
 
The stuff out of the front is still going to excite room modes, Dutch&Dutch used to make an 8M model , similar enclosure to the 8C but not cardioid and didn’t have the two rear bass drivers.
Apart from the bass extension the difference was the clearer , less congested midrange.
Keith
The 8C is cardioid from 100 Hz onwards, it does make sense that modes are tamed in that range; don't really the point here.
The MEG is from 30 to 250. At 250 Hz, the wavelength is still ~1.4 m, but this shouldn't excite "bigger" rooms too much (aren't most room fundamental resonances in the 20-200~250 Hz range?).
 
ME Geithain made cardioid speakers before D&D
https://www.me-geithain.de/en/me-804k.html or https://www.me-geithain.de/en/me-800k.html can be considered towers, I guess.

Did not realize they made the tower-equivalents, but given availability of all their stuff is poor in North America, don't think it's a realistic option sadly. Good to know it exists!

https://eikonaudio.com/the-image1
They were one of the better things I heard at AXPONA last year.

Interesting, no measurements though, couldn't find any availability mention either. Only price I could find was old and $24,500USD, they'd have to be doing something really special to justify that(or more).

Amphion & Gradient have floorstanders with passive cardioid implementations.

I looked those up and they look nice, for sure, but again no measurements. Something I'd be curious about if they were ever measured, for sure.
 
The PDF posted is for multiple subs, and the article posted says:

This is the problem I ran into (more multi-sub info than single sub info), but was able to weed though the information and misinformation and obtain single subwoofer optimization.

I concur with your observations about center location and resonances giving away the sub's location.

My sub is NOT undersized for the room in my opinion, and has 12" push pull drivers with dual voice coils (as I recall). If anything I want a smaller sub to minimize possible cabinet interference with sound-stage. As this sub is designed to be on the floor (one driver aimed down) I will not be lifting it to the 1/3 height level recommended by Mr. Foley in his video.

A single sub will never work well. 2 subs should be placed in opposite corners which will significantly cancel modes, not either side of the main speakers.

Edit: or opposite mid wall.
 
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A single sub will never work well. 2 subs should be placed in opposite corners which will significantly cancel modes, not either side of the main speakers.

Hmm, the audioholics guides(which are based on that AES paper, I think) suggest that for 2 subs, midwall(either front/back or left/right) is better than corners.
 
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