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Springy floor blurring sound?

MrPotatoHead

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Dec 24, 2019
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I live in a 1920 bungalow that I've completely renovated. The basement is unfinished so the floor joists are accessible. I sistered many of the joists with 2x8 boards under the kitchen and cross braced them which dramatically firmed up the floor above. On the remaining joists (including under my LR), I sistered with plywood strips and also cross braced. Overall the floors on the upstairs are pretty stiff but I can easily feel floor vibrations from the low frequencies coming from my sound system. And when my dog trots across the room, I can feel the bounce.

I'm wondering how much these low frequency sounds resonating through my floors are affecting the overall sound quality. If I removed the cross braces under my living room floor, re-sistered with 2x8s, and replaced the cross braces, would I notice a difference in SQ? I know the floor would feel and be stiffer. I might even heave some concrete blocks into the ceiling below my speakers to add mass. If I go to that much trouble, I would do some before an after room measurements. Would a "before" room plot reveal my blurry bass before I did all that work? (I can run a REW but interpreting the waterfalls and such is another story).

Those are Zaph ZD5 speakers I built and a ZD5 center channel. The sub is a @Wolf Overdrive10 I also built. Off screen to the left is a Hsu sub.

Living room stereo-1-sm.jpg
 
It would seem impossible that there isn’t some effect. Characterising it is unlikely to be trivial.
But you can perform some experiments.

You could use a simple accelerometer attached to the floor, and measured in a few places to get a feel for the floor’s behaviour directly. It doesn’t need to be especially accurate. Even a simple piezoelectric sensor for a few dollars would do.

Also, adding mass to the floor, such as a hundred pounds of something solid would let you begin to estimate the parameters with before and after measurements.

Bracing might be expected to increase the frequency of the vibration modes. Mass drop them. You probably want resistive damping. So mass and a viscous coupling. Or some form of constrained layer damping. Bracing that incorporates damping rather than hard attachment yet another. Maybe all of the above.

Measuring the response in the space under the room might yield some surprises. The floor may transmit a lot more energy than you expect.

In all a very interesting question.
 
And don’t forget the floor wall coupling especially for walking noise insulation.
 
This way lies madness.

I also have old wooden suspended floors with a life of their own and when I play the piano the floors contribute (probably) to the sound as do resonances from the piano structure etc. etc. I'm sure the same applies to sound from the hi-fi as well although I can't really isolate it's contribution. Does any of this concern me? Not at all, sometimes it's better to just enjoy the music.

P.S. a quick bit of research suggested (probably quite unreliably) that typical floor resonance lies between 5-15 Hz so not likely to be audible. That said placing the speakers somewhere they are bouncing around might have all sorts of interesting modulation effects. Back in the day I had a vinyl system in a house with similar construction and that was treated to quite a lot of isolation but, vinyl aside, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
 
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Been there. Putting noggins in between the joists same size as joists cross screwed with screws top middle and bottom and offset between joists will stiffen things up and raise the resonant frequency, which will be low any way. So it should tighten the bass up, but really, the whole thing is acting like a coupled cavity.

Best advice, add the noggins, and then board the underside, then stick a couple of Acro props under the floor to stop it moving.

A good trick to see how much it moves is to borrow a builders laser level. Put it in the middle of the floor and walk around to see how much the laser lines move.
 
I saw this ‘build your own vibration sensor’ on YouTube. It’s too advanced for me to make but you guys probably able to do so.

I didn’t realise those piezo sensors would out put such high voltage.

 
Just standing in the middle of the room, stand on you toes and bounce up and down. That may provide a quick estimate of the fundamental mode. Given the dire description of the floor construction, the frequency may well be well under 10 Hz.
But it will have other modes. These might be more troublesome. Then again you may simply have a room sized bass trap. Or a mix.
So, in the general spirit of these things. Measure and report.
 
I saw this ‘build your own vibration sensor’ on YouTube. It’s too advanced for me to make but you guys probably able to do so.
A couple of years ago I used a vibration app on my phone to test my floor vibrations at various frequencies played through my sound system.
 
Measuring the floor vibrations won't tell you much about the soundwaves.

Then again you may simply have a room sized bass trap.
That's what I was thinking. Hard-stiff surfaces reflect better, creating standing waves. But I doubt it makes enough difference to be significant or for an effective bass trap.

Any sound that goes through walls, ceiling, or floor, also can't contribute to standing waves.
 
Restored a couple San Francisco Victorian houses as side job in college with my brother and his friend. Mostly I replicated and installed curved hardwood stair rails. All the guys that I worked with said if the floor joist ends were pinned solid lines of criss cross bracing was the best at stabilizing spongy floors. If there is hardwood on top that can not be removed, the new stud finders can find joists down a couple of layers and there are trim screws that go from the top though the floor, sub floor and into the joists that shear off below the surface. I have only seen them used in videos and have not used or seen in person.
 
As an organ music lover, I would hate to have a room which didn't transmit vibrations. What we hear is enhanced by what we feel.

I believe it was Floyd Toole who was asked to help with a control room where the mixes were bass heavy. A sleeper floor was added so the engineers could feel as well as hear the bass- problem solved.

That said, bouncy floors can be a problem if LPs are played, and the best solution is wall mounting.
 
I live in a 1920 bungalow that I've completely renovated. The basement is unfinished so the floor joists are accessible. I sistered many of the joists with 2x8 boards under the kitchen and cross braced them which dramatically firmed up the floor above. On the remaining joists (including under my LR), I sistered with plywood strips and also cross braced. Overall the floors on the upstairs are pretty stiff but I can easily feel floor vibrations from the low frequencies coming from my sound system. And when my dog trots across the room, I can feel the bounce.

I'm wondering how much these low frequency sounds resonating through my floors are affecting the overall sound quality. If I removed the cross braces under my living room floor, re-sistered with 2x8s, and replaced the cross braces, would I notice a difference in SQ? I know the floor would feel and be stiffer. I might even heave some concrete blocks into the ceiling below my speakers to add mass. If I go to that much trouble, I would do some before an after room measurements. Would a "before" room plot reveal my blurry bass before I did all that work? (I can run a REW but interpreting the waterfalls and such is another story).

Those are Zaph ZD5 speakers I built and a ZD5 center channel. The sub is a @Wolf Overdrive10 I also built. Off screen to the left is a Hsu sub.

View attachment 466056

My floor standing speakers sit on an old sprung wood floor. I experimented with isolation.

May be useless to you… but maybe you’ll find something interesting in the discussion:

 
I have a few things you can try, but I have to dig out some measurements from the past couple of years. It's a busy time, but I think I can get something later today.
 
...dig out some measurements from the past couple of years.

The problem you are talking about seems to me, not that I am any kind of an expert, to be the vertical movement of the entire floor... plus harmonics of that fundamental frequency. Maybe there are other things going on. I have a 1925 house, so I know of what you speak.

Everything I say will be magnified if you have a flat ceiling, as I do.

First, keep in mind the floor has a lot of mass, different materials, and the mass of the furniture and people on top. It will take a lot of energy to get all that mass moving. But rhythmic sound, harmonics, once it gets going it is going to get GOING! So at some point more volume will just lead to more problems, since the only thing that can change the level of sound produced by the floor is the sound going into the floor.

Also, "floor modes" at the low end will be related to, but not identical to, dimensionally associated room modes. Suckers like to hide. If you see a steep null go flat then shoot up a peak at higher and higher volumes.... floor.

The long axis of your room is likely the problem, so consider a slightly wider more toed in set up... if you think that might work for you given the rest of the space.

Finally, think about this part of the process as literally playing your floor to produce sound in a more controlled way... before going wild. My overall strategy is to try to delay energy organizing in certain ways.

Here's some measurement options, from very direct to more inferential, then finally sweeps.

Play your floor like a kickdrum, once, record RTA peak. This is from a different set up (different floor weighting/tuning) of my floor, and the yellow line is the kickdrum test:

3floormeasures.jpg


The subsonic stuff sure, but also 30.8. That's my floor fundamental. Though really 30 works much better as a single EQ, and two narrow ones work even better. I'll get to those later.

The red and blue are from B.R.A.T measurements (J. Ramone, et. al., 1976). Following the method, I input a point source signal of 10 seconds at ~4hz at the maximum level I was willing to do (red), and then found an input level that was levelish to 200 (blue.)

I folded up two towels and hit my floor with a baseball bat.

Blue: thirty is always there, but we can see the subsonic stuff, good for AV rumble for sure. While 30 is my entire floor, 50 is the engineered wood floor on the front 2/3rds of my room. I have two floor fundamentals. Everything else is floor resonances, and a bit of room. Close enough, since it is pretty room specific.

Red: Break up mode energy, that peak at 230ish is the engineered floor breaking up like an overdriven drumhead. But note how it "sucks" energy from the frequencies below it.

Floor modes shift energy. Solution for measuring that? Try white noise at various volume levels, look for patterns. At some smoothing levels (I use a 5 second peak RTA for these), you might see a peak go to a double peak and back and forth at different SPL. Likely a floor issue there.

Alternatively, this graph shows white noise, then I gently patted the floor at ~4hz. Notice how my floor with more energy fills things in nicely. So potentially...in actuality it means more floor produces less extreme problems, not more, at my reference SPL for EQing.

You can see some dips turn into peaks, and a double peak emerge at 30. That one's just for fun. Mostly.


rugwn65tapnotap24smooth.jpg



That's 1/24 smoothing btw. The most practical way I have for finding double peaks is to watch for them develop as my 5 second RTA of white noise fills in the lows.

OK, so I recently did some measures of "what happens if I open THAT window that makes no sense to open?" And I start with a sweep.

Here's my current, 1/24. I do use a 512 sample and start my sweeps at 15 to get the floor moving :

current freq and phase.jpg



I really don't care about that, but note the seeming drop off at 13k for later. Instead I am going to zoom in on impulse:

current impulse.jpg


See 200ms? Say hello to my floor delay!

If I align the REW EQ suggested frequencies to be in phase with that delay I get a closer match between predicted and expected performance. This explains why REW said 30.8hz for both sweeps and white noise in that very first measurement I posted-yellow line, but 30hz worked way better.

Finally, using this sweep, the spectrograph shows some indication of overall floor level:

current spectro.jpg


Up above 10k, what looks like late reflections at 200-400ms is my floor, mostly in the back 1/3 of the room, winding down. A new rug pad with rubber backing made it go away for a while, until the squeaky floor boards beat cavities into it. Then it gradually came back.

All of that is great for finding out what the floor does at a specific frequency, but what it misses is how energy ends up in a frequency that comes from other frequencies. So when tuning, here's what I do.

I use white noise, usually. Feel free to use a sweep. Develop EQ to target. Then....

I use a 15 second sweep, 200-20-200, from Bunker Audio (maybe bunker analog?) on Amazon. It is a wider sine wave than REW. This gives me sweep accuracy for the peaks, but white noise accuracy for the dips. I then use the a 20k-20-20k AV sweep for over 200, and to measure residual energy that goes from above 30 and 50 into 30 and 50. (White noise works well for under 30, btw).

1/12 smoothing here. I usually eq with 1/6.

current final 20-200.jpg


That's where things end up, just a bit over level for the bass. For my sierra LXs 10 feet off the wall (6" two way speaker). Any bumps on the rolled off AV sweep below 60 show where I'll get a bit extra boost with music, more boost with more bass and with more volume. So 50, 40, and 30 will be higher than the sweep measure shows.

I hope that helps. I hope your issue turns out to be simple. And my simple TL;DR advice is...

Tune your EQ frequencies to be in phase with your floor delay, roll off your bass as steeply as you can stand, and use 2 narrow PEQs on your fundamental frequency... hard!

If things improve, you've found a path. If not, not much time wasted.

I'm sure there are better ways, but I really didn't find much helpful advice on this issue in my searches. So you get my trial and error results for methods.


(my apologies for any typos, I was running out of time for this.)
 
The problem you are talking about seems to me, not that I am any kind of an expert, to be the vertical movement of the entire floor... plus harmonics of that fundamental frequency. Maybe there are other things going on. I have a 1925 house, so I know of what you speak.
Thanks for this! I missed it previously.
 
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