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Spinorama MoFi Sourcepoint 888 vs MoFi Sourcepoint V10 ME Data + general help needed choosing a speaker

The most expensive there is - not available :)
 
I’ve started this thread with 2 channel stereo in mind, page 2 we’re already on DIY subs :) :) I love this place :)

Not throwing shade, I thank you for trying to help me by thinking out of the box (pun intended), but I would rather pay for a finished product (even at a premium) than go DIY route, as I simply do not gave the time.
 
Sub placement in a living room thats full of "stuff of life" is allways difficult, you basically have to use the few spots that are available and dont annoy the other inhabitants to much...
And no, without trying it will be close to impossible to find the perfect position, you can model rooms to some extent, but as rooms get more complicated than a standard "shoebox" design you really have to try and measure.
 
c) I was also entertaining the idea of active cardioid Buchardt A700 SE
If that's in your shortlist, the Ascilab C8C should also be there, they are close in price, both are cardioid, and surprisingly, both speakers are exactly the same size. And even more surprisingly, the Ascilab has a higher air displacement.

Depending on your SPL requirements, you might need subs for both. The Ascilab however comes with the option of a dedicated bass stand, total price is close-ish to the Sourcepoint V10 ME in Europe, especially since the amplification is included.
 
Well yes, in fact I have. As there is a really nice (almost mint condition) used F208 on sale here, for literally half the price of the Kef. However, I’ve been reading up on the wide vs narrow directivity (offerd by the coaxial driver) which should suit me better, as I’m listening music in my sweet spot, 90% of the time. And I should avoid Revel due to wise dispersion and the influence those windows might have on the reflections?

Mind you, this is my layman’s understanding of this, I could be overthinking this altogether… so should I re-consider the F208?
Love mine in a very open and shared space similar to yours.
 
Pulled the trigger on a pair of walnut 888s :) , let's see if they work well enough in my room (and to my preference) to negate the need for subs. If they do - happy camper, if they don't - the search for a pair of nice (maybe walnut?) subs continues...
 
Pulled the trigger on a pair of walnut 888s :) , let's see if they work well enough in my room (and to my preference) to negate the need for subs. If they do - happy camper, if they don't - the search for a pair of nice (maybe walnut?) subs continues...
Enjoy! Walnut is gonna be hard, Focal.used to have that venner but the subs were just average. Dynaudio has walnut, but their subs are pricy. I'll try to remember more.
 
Quick update, after 20mins of listening. Standing wave bass null still here :( but that was somewhat expected. Incremental upgrade at best in all other aspects. As noted in other forums, they do need to be pushed loud for bass to present itself, what was 33-35 ()Wiim Ultra) loudness for solid bass on Focal is now 45-50 on MoFi. That, I really don't like, but I'm hoping to EQ that, RoomFit settings are left from Focal setup.

Definitely need to go with subs.

On the plus side, aesthetically they look way nicer that 2 black monolith coffins from Focal :)
 
Enjoy! Walnut is gonna be hard, Focal.used to have that venner but the subs were just average. Dynaudio has walnut, but their subs are pricy. I'll try to remember more.
BK is the best bet. There is also REL Classic 99, but that thing is ridiculously expensive for what it brings to the table - 4k EUR list price, for 2 x 12inch sealed subs at -6 dB at 24Hz.
 
Definitely need to go with subs.
I am sincerely curious to know the amount of people recommending subs who actually integrate them properly. Properly integrating a sub means measuring the sub alone in the room, measuring the speaker alone in the room, then designing a filter allowing sub and speaker to cleanly merge. Electrical low/high pass at the same frequency is better than nothing but very far from the panacea.
If you are ready to jump into the room EQ rabbit hole, which I recommend, @OCA has some very nice videos https://www.youtube.com/@ocaudiophile.
 
I think this is the only way to get rid of that bass null. If you know a better, or cheaper way, please share :)

Been playing with placement, moved them further back towards the front wall - better, but not as good as I stand up.

So frustrating, when I get up and walk around the room, the bass is ALL THERE. But when I sit down, 20%-30% of it dissapears.
 
And oh my, I can crank that amp up to 60-65 and the control is phenomenal, no sound of distortion or harshness from the speakers of ANY kind. Even my 4 year old walks around smiling, at that volume level, I’d think she’d be covering her ears - but no. The Focals would sound too harsh in the mids and highs after 50 or so.
 
I am sincerely curious to know the amount of people recommending subs who actually integrate them properly. Properly integrating a sub means measuring the sub alone in the room, measuring the speaker alone in the room, then designing a filter allowing sub and speaker to cleanly merge. Electrical low/high pass at the same frequency is better than nothing but very far from the panacea.
If you are ready to jump into the room EQ rabbit hole, which I recommend, @OCA has some very nice videos https://www.youtube.com/@ocaudiophile.
One practical question, if you’re willing to share your opinion. If you look back at the last page and my room plan with the only potential positions for subs - would it even be worth it? Or would the bass null persist, as they would be on almost the same horizontal plane as the LR speakers?
 
I think this is the only way to get rid of that bass null. If you know a better, or cheaper way, please share :)

Been playing with placement, moved them further back towards the front wall - better, but not as good as I stand up.

So frustrating, when I get up and walk around the room, the bass is ALL THERE. But when I sit down, 20%-30% of it dissapears.
Try 1/4 of the way up the side walls. A measurement mic and REW can simulate speaker and sub placement FWIW.
 
I think this is the only way to get rid of that bass null. If you know a better, or cheaper way, please share :)
He wasn't arguing against subs. He was arguing for proper sub integration. And shared a method:
Properly integrating a sub means measuring the sub alone in the room, measuring the speaker alone in the room, then designing a filter allowing sub and speaker to cleanly merge. Electrical low/high pass at the same frequency is better than nothing but very far from the panacea.
If you are ready to jump into the room EQ rabbit hole, which I recommend, @OCA has some very nice videos https://www.youtube.com/@ocaudiophile.
Seems from OP's description, the integration isn't sorted out.
 
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