Specific use case inquiry for SUPER-FI

[voodooless]

The AHB2 isn't exactly in his budget range though...

What speakers is he using? I couldn't figure that out from the wall of text that was posted.

He didn't say yet, we just know he's exchanging tweeters.

I am fanatically fascinated by precision.

Well, maybe:

As you see here, it's not the same as accurate! And the way you're using the equipment, you're not getting an accurate representation. That's fine if that's what you're after, just keep this in mind

As for your Crown amp, it's a relatively cheap PA amp, and usually, these don't do well in noise or distortion. Anything you'll pick from the top shelf of the review index in your budget should do loads better spec wise (maybe not power, but you don't need much I would assume).

 

[Jim Taylor]

It seems that what you are seeking is signal isolation ... no noise, no interference (no reflection). There is nothing that I know of that will achieve this at less than laboratory levels. However, a combination of room-deadening treatment and cardioid dispersion pattern MIGHT be what you're looking for. This combination would give what most people would consider an abnormal sound result, but it seems that you're looking for an abnormal degree of signal isolation.

There are two threads on ASR that look into cardioid speakers:

Everything you always wanted to know about cardioids* (*but were afraid to ask)

I can't promise this thread will have all that, actually. But I'll start with a few answers to questions from the Buchardt S400 thread, and hope that the ASR members who have theoretical & practical experience also post. There are at least a few of you... The cardioid effect occurs over a...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Cardioid Loudspeakers - Are they worth it?

Good day everyone - So I’ve been looking into various methods of applying a cardioid response into different designs - things like resistive enclosures, active methods with rear drivers, and such The thing that concerns me is that I’ve always wondered if it’s actually worth the effort - I’ve...

www.audiosciencereview.com

... and one of them contains a link to this excellent paper:

https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/server/api/core/bitstreams/53118e62-e0d0-4a6d-949b-b74049a069e4/content

I can't be absolutely sure that this is the solution that you're looking for, but then again, it's difficult to understand what someone needs if you're not familiar with them. Not only that, but as you will read in these threads, cardioid design is not perfect; it has problems of its own.

All in all, I hope this helps.

Jim

 

[Koeitje]

He didn't say yet, we just know he's exchanging tweeters.

This is all pointless then. You can have the best amplifier in the world, but if your speakers are shit then it wont matter at all.

 

[Lab_Experiment]

I'm sorry, but I have clue what you are trying to say here.

If you're referring to the very last thing I said, I can give you one more analogy that I like. Search "crayon art" and then search "pencil crayon art". There is a lot to be said about what you may see but the main take away is that because of physics, a pencil crayon will do things a normal crayon cant. Yes, both can be used in such a way that it's almost indistinguishable which medium was used, especially from a distance but upon closer inspection I believe I could tell every time whether a pencil crayon or a waxy crayon was used. I could say a lot more in terms of master level technique and average results across many drawings at many skill levels but I believe I've made my point.

I used to listen to a lot more dubstep...

Yeah the way I see it there's a math at play here that people are not fully comprehending. I'm trying to get the most out of what I have at the moment. I'm trying to compensate for less power by going with more efficient drivers, and closer positioning to the ear. But I still want that insane feeling without losing quality to the noise floor or other distortion characteristics of an amp. I believe I can say I have reached a mastery level of equalization, and have some powerful digital tools that will enable me to balance the potentially disturbed frequency response. Your comments are quite spot on. Hopefully this comment will clear things up for the others. Also its always a pleasure to run into someone that likes similar music. Was not expecting that.

Not very much - but I doubt you would believe us over the merits of (for example) the Fosi V3 mono.

So - if you want measurably the best of the best, rather than just audibly perfect.

Purifi 1ET9040BA based.
Hypex Nilai 500 based.

Or if you have an irrational fear of class D (why do I suspect this will turn out to be the case?) then Topping B200 or LA90d

However, as pointed out by others above - speakers are where you should be looking.

No not at all. I do not have some unfounded hate towards class D amplifiers. In the case of the Fosi V3, the graph attached made me hesitant. With the way the performance was trending, what is happening at +16k? YES I CAN HEAR THAT STUFF IT IS VERY IMPORTANT. In the case of the DIY boards, I don't have soldering equipment. I don't know why I wouldn't pay someone an extra 50-100$ who knows what they're doing to zip zap the parts in place properly. I couldn't fathom spending that money and making a mistake, and not having warranty or anything.

What speakers is he using? I couldn't figure that out from the wall of text that was posted.

ALRIGHT I WILL ADRESS THIS: My goal here is NOT to build a set and forget, master system that will be planned and matched at each component to perfectly work together in harmony that is destined to sit in my living space for the rest of my life. I have 10+ different tweeters and drivers that all have different thele-small parameters. Yes, I know I posted in the newbie forum but I'm only a noob to ASR, not speakers. What I am looking for right now is a common denominator that will give me an idea to questions like: "ARE AMT TWEETERS THE BEST?" "BERILLIUM WORTH IT?" "BULLET VS SOFTDOME?" "HIGH SENSITIVITY LOW WATT VS LOW WATT HIGH SENSITIVITY?" "HIGH Q VS LOW Q". I was able to test many of these questions with my CROWN XLI 1500. Although the drivers can behave quite differently, there is a common behavior that is the character of the engineering of the XLI. Its a fun experiment to make one speaker sound like another but I still have noise and distortion that I want gone.

Financially I'm scraping by so it should be stated whatever I spend my little 800$ on will be quite a significant investment. Of course there's always financing which makes the BENCHMARK a possibility at the expense of a few basic necessities for a while. Lol.

 

[JeremyFife]

Hi @Lab_Experiment ... you have different needs from your kit than I do, that's for sure. More power to you, we need all sorts here.

I hope you find what you are looking for - best of luck

 

[Lab_Experiment]

The AHB2 isn't exactly in his budget range though...


He didn't say yet, we just know he's exchanging tweeters.


Well, maybe:
View attachment 384906

As you see here, it's not the same as accurate! And the way you're using the equipment, you're not getting an accurate representation. That's fine if that's what you're after, just keep this in mind

As for your Crown amp, it's a relatively cheap PA amp, and usually, these don't do well in noise or distortion. Anything you'll pick from the top shelf of the review index in your budget should do loads better spec wise (maybe not power, but you don't need much I would assume).

If we are going to map the idea of precise to the characteristic of distortion and the idea of accurate to the idea of frequency response, then without a doubt, then I am much more concerned about precision in this case. I can fix frequency response with DSP if I have headroom. I imagine 100W will give me quite a lot of nearfield headroom. My grandpa has a 60W guitar amp that is quite loud but I am actually looking for more than that.

It seems that what you are seeking is signal isolation ... no noise, no interference (no reflection). There is nothing that I know of that will achieve this at less than laboratory levels. However, a combination of room-deadening treatment and cardioid dispersion pattern MIGHT be what you're looking for. This combination would give what most people would consider an abnormal sound result, but it seems that you're looking for an abnormal degree of signal isolation.

There are two threads on ASR that look into cardioid speakers:

Everything you always wanted to know about cardioids* (*but were afraid to ask)

I can't promise this thread will have all that, actually. But I'll start with a few answers to questions from the Buchardt S400 thread, and hope that the ASR members who have theoretical & practical experience also post. There are at least a few of you... The cardioid effect occurs over a...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Cardioid Loudspeakers - Are they worth it?

Good day everyone - So I’ve been looking into various methods of applying a cardioid response into different designs - things like resistive enclosures, active methods with rear drivers, and such The thing that concerns me is that I’ve always wondered if it’s actually worth the effort - I’ve...

www.audiosciencereview.com

... and one of them contains a link to this excellent paper:

https://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/server/api/core/bitstreams/53118e62-e0d0-4a6d-949b-b74049a069e4/content

I can't be absolutely sure that this is the solution that you're looking for, but then again, it's difficult to understand what someone needs if you're not familiar with them. Not only that, but as you will read in these threads, cardioid design is not perfect; it has problems of its own.

All in all, I hope this helps.

Jim

I am going to play with the room after I get the electronics right. It will be my last step. With my near-ear field approach the reflections are not really as much of an issue. I have already played with room treatment a bit and am aware of what it does to the sound.

Alright so after addressing the comments/ questions I must state what my current thoughts are. Please give yourself some context and read what I've written previously to get an idea of my goals. I dynamically test things and am looking for a common denominator electrical system that eliminates distortion from the ELECTRONIC HARDWARE side which is a bit less manipulatable by me.

I imagine that I will have 3 different amplifiers in time. One for my low frequency woofer (10Hz-240Hz), one for my midrange (240Hz-4kHz) and my highs (4kHz to 20kHz). These are cross over points I have liked historically but they are not set in stone. The concept of narrow frequency scoped amplifiers seems to not exist right now from google searching so I'm okay with just getting full range amplifiers to use at specific ranges.

A large amount of negative comments towards the LA90 were that it wasn't enough wattage but I imagine if connected to my 106DB sensitivity TS-B400PRO bullet tweeter from pioneer and was 1m away from it there could potentially be some irreversible hearing loss. I would consider the VIDAR or AEGIR but they have UNBALANCED inputs which takes them out of my consideration. Right now I want to spend only about 800$. To anyone that has been on this forum for a while, has it been debunked that the LA90 was only trying to go for "look nice on paper" or does it do the entire range justice? It just seems to be what I'm looking for. Lower power but insane performance. If anyone has any other considerations please by all means let me know. The warranty situation and some of the comments do scare me a bit so I'm undecided.

If I got an LA90 and the performance was at the level of "cant be better" at its wattage then I may make it my mission to get a benchmark. I cant imagine the benchmark would sound worse than the LA90. Of course give me other options anyone. I'm DIY, but not electronics DIY at the moment so I'm not really considering a CHIP. I want a heatsink on the board properly zapped onto there that's really on there and doing the best it can. I don't believe I have the tools for that sort of stuff.

One more thing... Do you guys consider noise-floor as something separate from distortion?

 

[Koeitje]

If you're referring to the very last thing I said, I can give you one more analogy that I like. Search "crayon art" and then search "pencil crayon art". There is a lot to be said about what you may see but the main take away is that because of physics, a pencil crayon will do things a normal crayon cant. Yes, both can be used in such a way that it's almost indistinguishable which medium was used, especially from a distance but upon closer inspection I believe I could tell every time whether a pencil crayon or a waxy crayon was used. I could say a lot more in terms of master level technique and average results across many drawings at many skill levels but I believe I've made my point.

You make even less sense now. If you want to have the best and cleanest sound start with the speakers. Your speakers distort far more than any amplifier does. You are using some car audio tweeter by the looks of it, so I don't know what the fuck you are doing? Do you want good audio in your car or at home?

For home just use a Hypex FA503 with proper drivers.

 

[Lab_Experiment]

You make even less sense now. If you want to have the best and cleanest sound start with the speakers. Your speakers distort far more than any amplifier does. You are using some car audio tweeter by the looks of it, so I don't know what the fuck you are doing? Do you want good audio in your car or at home?

It seems you are replying to a very narrow scope of my comment without considering and possibly even remembering anything about I said my goals were. l o l.

 

[voodooless]

What I am looking for right now is a common denominator that will give me an idea to questions like: "ARE AMT TWEETERS THE BEST?" "BERILLIUM WORTH IT?" "BULLET VS SOFTDOME?" "HIGH SENSITIVITY LOW WATT VS LOW WATT HIGH SENSITIVITY?" "HIGH Q VS LOW Q". I was able to test many of these questions with my CROWN XLI 1500.

No you can’t. These questions are way too general for one. There is never one answer. It all depends on too many factors, most importantly how they integrate with the rest of the speaker. You can’t just EQ that. It needs proper changing of the filter, which requires measuring and changing crossover components. To properly compare all of these, you’d need to have them integrated perfectly and then EQ’d to the exact same frequency response on (at least) the listening axis. If you don’t do that, all then all you do is compare frequency response differences, not fundamental tweeter designs.

 

[Lab_Experiment]

No you can’t. These questions are way too general for one. There is never one answer. It all depends on too many factors, most importantly how they integrate with the rest of the speaker. You can’t just EQ that. It needs proper changing of the filter, which requires measuring and changing crossover components. To properly compare all of these, you’d need to have them integrated perfectly and then EQ’d to the exact same frequency response on (at least) the listening axis. If you don’t do that, all then all you do is compare frequency response differences, not fundamental tweeter designs.

You are seriously under-estimating my digital signal processing capability. I have made cheap speakers sound exactly like expensive speakers albeit at lower volumes.

I also want the amp to test how my RME ADI-2-PRO stacks up against my FOCSRITE 18i20. With the FOCUSRITE I can send out 10 line level outputs so theoretically I could make two 5-way speakers perfectly balanced because I have digital tools for crossover, phase adjustment, equalization and many other little nit picky adjustments. If I think that the Focusrite is lacking in the midrange compared to the ADI-2-PRO then I might get a 3 way analog crossover where I can adjust the crossover points. If I have to do that then I will be able to figure out if a 200$ 3 way adjustable analog crossover changes the sound at any perceptible level vs straight out of the RME. Lots of fun. That would be a worthwhile experiment for me if I had a crazy clean amplifier stage.

So unless you're claiming that each amplifier has some insanely different technology that works at specific speaker Q values where some speakers cause more jitter or something SUCH AS TO JUSTIFY THAT I GET AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT AMPLIFIER FOR A CERTAIN TWEETER, I think I'm doing this properly. Please do let me know if that is what you are saying and give me a little more context because right now that seems like a bit of a ridiculous horse to ride on. I tend to favor components with high sensitivity ratings if you cant already tell but if there's a reason why that's a bad idea I'd like to know. I already said I want the amp to be the common denominator, not have a common denominator speaker with which to test many amps that just doesn't seem right.

I also want to thank everyone for your input. Each comment means a lot to me, even the ones that are a little bit belittling, I enjoy those as well.

 

[voodooless]

You are seriously under-estimating my digital signal processing capability.

No, I just know that is physically possible.

So unless you're claiming that each amplifier has some insanely different technology that works at specific speaker Q values where some speakers cause more jitter or something SUCH AS TO JUSTIFY THAT I GET AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT AMPLIFIER FOR A CERTAIN TWEETER, I think I'm doing this properly. Please do let me know if that is what you are saying and give me a little more context because right now that seems like a bit of a ridiculous horse to ride on

The choice of the amplifier has zero to do with it, in fact, as I illuded earlier, it's largely irrelevant. It's the method you use to achieve your goal I criticize. It's inefficient and flawed.

 

[kemmler3D]

If you're referring to the very last thing I said, I can give you one more analogy that I like. Search "crayon art" and then search "pencil crayon art". There is a lot to be said about what you may see but the main take away is that because of physics, a pencil crayon will do things a normal crayon cant. Yes, both can be used in such a way that it's almost indistinguishable which medium was used, especially from a distance but upon closer inspection I believe I could tell every time whether a pencil crayon or a waxy crayon was used. I could say a lot more in terms of master level technique and average results across many drawings at many skill levels but I believe I've made my point.

Yeah the way I see it there's a math at play here that people are not fully comprehending. I'm trying to get the most out of what I have at the moment. I'm trying to compensate for less power by going with more efficient drivers, and closer positioning to the ear. But I still want that insane feeling without losing quality to the noise floor or other distortion characteristics of an amp. I believe I can say I have reached a mastery level of equalization, and have some powerful digital tools that will enable me to balance the potentially disturbed frequency response. Your comments are quite spot on. Hopefully this comment will clear things up for the others. Also its always a pleasure to run into someone that likes similar music. Was not expecting that.

No not at all. I do not have some unfounded hate towards class D amplifiers. In the case of the Fosi V3, the graph attached made me hesitant. With the way the performance was trending, what is happening at +16k? YES I CAN HEAR THAT STUFF IT IS VERY IMPORTANT. In the case of the DIY boards, I don't have soldering equipment. I don't know why I wouldn't pay someone an extra 50-100$ who knows what they're doing to zip zap the parts in place properly. I couldn't fathom spending that money and making a mistake, and not having warranty or anything.

ALRIGHT I WILL ADRESS THIS: My goal here is NOT to build a set and forget, master system that will be planned and matched at each component to perfectly work together in harmony that is destined to sit in my living space for the rest of my life. I have 10+ different tweeters and drivers that all have different thele-small parameters. Yes, I know I posted in the newbie forum but I'm only a noob to ASR, not speakers. What I am looking for right now is a common denominator that will give me an idea to questions like: "ARE AMT TWEETERS THE BEST?" "BERILLIUM WORTH IT?" "BULLET VS SOFTDOME?" "HIGH SENSITIVITY LOW WATT VS LOW WATT HIGH SENSITIVITY?" "HIGH Q VS LOW Q". I was able to test many of these questions with my CROWN XLI 1500. Although the drivers can behave quite differently, there is a common behavior that is the character of the engineering of the XLI. Its a fun experiment to make one speaker sound like another but I still have noise and distortion that I want gone.

Financially I'm scraping by so it should be stated whatever I spend my little 800$ on will be quite a significant investment. Of course there's always financing which makes the BENCHMARK a possibility at the expense of a few basic necessities for a while. Lol.

If you're looking for 3 amps and you're involved in swapping drivers in a DIY fashion, I also recommend the Hypex X03 series. They're pretty expensive, but the include 3 high-quality amps (will blow the doors off your XLI in noise / distortion) and have fairly robust DSP built in, so you can mess with crossovers, EQ phase correction, and so on. (you will need 2 for stereo...) The noise/distortion isn't quite as good as the Topping or Benchmark, but it should be inaudible / much less audible than it is with the crown.

I would also recommend checking out the DIYAudio.com forum. It's much more focused on experimentation of the kind you're involved in.

If you want to do 10 channels and 5-way crossovers I'd also recommend getting some Fosi monoblocks. They perform really well for the money (say >90% of the way to a Benchmark in terms of what's audible) and are decently powerful.

 

[kemmler3D]

You are seriously under-estimating my digital signal processing capability. I have made cheap speakers sound exactly like expensive speakers albeit at lower volumes.

I also want the amp to test how my RME ADI-2-PRO stacks up against my FOCSRITE 18i20. With the FOCUSRITE I can send out 10 line level outputs so theoretically I could make two 5-way speakers perfectly balanced because I have digital tools for crossover, phase adjustment, equalization and many other little nit picky adjustments. If I think that the Focusrite is lacking in the midrange compared to the ADI-2-PRO then I might get a 3 way analog crossover where I can adjust the crossover points. If I have to do that then I will be able to figure out if a 200$ 3 way adjustable analog crossover changes the sound at any perceptible level vs straight out of the RME. Lots of fun. That would be a worthwhile experiment for me if I had a crazy clean amplifier stage.

So unless you're claiming that each amplifier has some insanely different technology that works at specific speaker Q values where some speakers cause more jitter or something SUCH AS TO JUSTIFY THAT I GET AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT AMPLIFIER FOR A CERTAIN TWEETER, I think I'm doing this properly. Please do let me know if that is what you are saying and give me a little more context because right now that seems like a bit of a ridiculous horse to ride on. I tend to favor components with high sensitivity ratings if you cant already tell but if there's a reason why that's a bad idea I'd like to know. I already said I want the amp to be the common denominator, not have a common denominator speaker with which to test many amps that just doesn't seem right.

I also want to thank everyone for your input. Each comment means a lot to me, even the ones that are a little bit belittling, I enjoy those as well.

I think you should also spend a little more time reading about audibility of different modes of distortion in gear like DACs, amps, and so forth.

Long story short, even very good speakers have ~100x more distortion than a decent DAC. If you are looking to hear differences between DACs, 99% of the time you are barking up the wrong tree.

@voodooless was commenting along the lines of, you can't really say that beryllium is better than silk dome tweeters, (or really definitively answer that kind of question) because that kind of generalization is too broad to have a single answer. When it comes to speakers everything is a trade-off with some pros and cons. It's up to the listener as to whether the pros outweigh the cons.

Now, if you just want to hear the differences between these drivers and form opinions on what you like - that's great, he's just saying there's no final answer on these kinds of questions.

 

[Koeitje]

It seems you are replying to a very narrow scope of my comment without considering and possibly even remembering anything about I said my goals were. l o l.

You struggle to string together a coherent paragraph, so how are we supposed to understand what you want? If your goal is high fidelity the amplifier is not where you start, but in this case I'd just get the Hypex FA503 I recommended you. You can slap whatever drivers you want with that and make it work. You can use your car audio tweeters and do whatever else you want. Maybe it sounds good, maybe it wont. Just go experiment yourself, because you clearly do not give two shits about any advice that is given to you anyway. The general vibe I'm getting is that you aren't really after high fidelity or anything like that, but just that you want to experiment a bit and the FA503 is perfect for that.

 

[Lab_Experiment]

I think you should also spend a little more time reading about audibility of different modes of distortion in gear like DACs, amps, and so forth.

Long story short, even very good speakers have ~100x more distortion than a decent DAC. If you are looking to hear differences between DACs, 99% of the time you are barking up the wrong tree.

@voodooless was commenting along the lines of, you can't really say that beryllium is better than silk dome tweeters, (or really definitively answer that kind of question) because that kind of generalization is too broad to have a single answer. When it comes to speakers everything is a trade-off with some pros and cons. It's up to the listener as to whether the pros outweigh the cons.

Now, if you just want to hear the differences between these drivers and form opinions on what you like - that's great, he's just saying there's no final answer on these kinds of questions.

Entirely fair. I did not use the word "better" in an attempt to be a totalitarian or something I used that word to sort of give an impression somewhere along the lines of "what I would subjectively appreciate more in terms of what trade offs were compromised". Sorry if that original comment read more literally than my intention. Sometimes I write with a sort of twang if you will, rather than entirely surgically precise. I know that may not be appreciated much around here but I like to think it makes things a little more enjoyable to read if not over done.

You struggle to string together a coherent paragraph, so how are we supposed to understand what you want? If your goal is high fidelity the amplifier is not where you start, but in this case I'd just get the Hypex FA503 I recommended you. You can slap whatever drivers you want with that and make it work. You can use your car audio tweeters and do whatever else you want. Maybe it sounds good, maybe it wont. Just go experiment yourself, because you clearly do not give two shits about any advice that is given to you anyway. The general vibe I'm getting is that you aren't really after high fidelity or anything like that, but just that you want to experiment a bit and the FA503 is perfect for that.

Not true I do care. I'm asking about amplifiers and your telling me to buy speakers. That and your unscientific way of pushing your information is getting on my nerves a little bit.

Alright well the volcano is erupting here it goes:

You're going off about "car tweeter" as if that somehow magically makes the tweeter worse. That's rather un-scientific. I used a cheaper tweeter (20$) with an even cheaper woofer (15$) and was able to make it sound so similar to the human voice that it made the hairs on my arms stand up.

Sorry to all the people trying to sell their 700$ bullshit bookshelf speakers, but for 100$ spent on speakers, including the MDF I used to build the un-measured cabinets from specs that looked pleasing to the eye rather than for any actual acoustic reason, I got mastery level performance from 6000$ amplifiers.

Please do not say that I do not give two shits, I certainly do. I know its a bit much reading but you signed up for reading when you clicked on a thread called "SUPER-FI".

Anyone here actually serious or ??? Who else wants me to spend all my money on a cabinet when I am asking for an AMP? Please do keep commenting telling me to buy speakers. Show everyone here just how much you know.

What a joke. At this point this place seems more like a lynch mob website rather than a information website.

 

[kemmler3D]

Entirely fair. I did not use the word "better" in an attempt to be a totalitarian or something I used that word to sort of give an impression somewhere along the lines of "what I would subjectively appreciate more in terms of what trade offs were compromised". Sorry if that original comment read more literally than my intention. Sometimes I write with a sort of twang if you will, rather than entirely surgically precise. I know that may not be appreciated much around here but I like to think it makes things a little more enjoyable to read if not over done.

Not true I do care. I'm asking about amplifiers and your telling me to buy speakers. That and your unscientific way of pushing your information is getting on my nerves a little bit.

Alright well the volcano is erupting here it goes:

You're going off about "car tweeter" as if that somehow magically makes the tweeter worse. That's rather un-scientific. I used a cheaper tweeter (20$) with an even cheaper woofer (15$) and was able to make it sound so similar to the human voice that it made the hairs on my arms stand up.

Sorry to all the people trying to sell their 700$ bullshit bookshelf speakers, but for 100$ spent on speakers, including the MDF I used to build the un-measured cabinets from specs that looked pleasing to the eye rather than for any actual acoustic reason, I got mastery level performance from 6000$ amplifiers.

Please do not say that I do not give two shits, I certainly do. I know its a bit much reading but you signed up for reading when you clicked on a thread called "SUPER-FI".

Anyone here actually serious or ??? Who else wants me to spend all my money on a cabinet when I am asking for an AMP? Please do keep commenting telling me to buy speakers. Show everyone here just how much you know.

What a joke. At this point this place seems more like a lynch mob website rather than a information website.

One thing to keep in mind about this site is not everyone is an english speaker, a lot of users will actually use translation apps to/from their own language here. The language of the forum is english but sometimes meaning gets lost in translation, literally. So long wordy posts can miss the mark with some people.

@Koeitje was IMO unnecessarily rude here but I agree with the recommendation. The Hypex plate amps (any of them ending with a "3") have a lot of functionality that sounds like would be helpful to you and the noise / distortion performance is very good.

 

[JeremyFife]

The DIY element - speaker building - of this is not really my thing but I'd be interested to see measurements of what you've done/ are doing.

Especially how you model and define the crossovers. That always seemed complex.

 

[voodooless]

Please do keep commenting telling me to buy speakers

No we don’t. Wel tell you to put most of your resources there that could be money, but may also be research, time, etc. It will pay off 100x more than fussing over amps. That’s just the reality, and I think you know this very well already.

Having said this, I think the suggestion for a Fusion amp with DSP and multiple channels may be a useful option for you, even though it’s a bit more expensive. It will give you way more flexibility to tinker with your speaker stuff.

 

[kemmler3D]

No we don’t. Wel tell you to put most of your resources there that could be money, but may also be research, time, etc. It will pay off 100x more than fussing over amps. That’s just the reality, and I think you know this very well already.

Having said this, I think the suggestion for a Fusion amp with DSP and multiple channels may be a useful option for you, even though it’s a bit more expensive. It will give you way more flexibility to tinker with your speaker stuff.

That, or several affordable (e.g. Fosi) monoblocks hooked to the Focusrite interface. If you are willing to do your crossovers / DSP on the PC it can be very cost-effective and convenient.

 

[Lab_Experiment]

The Hypex plate amps (any of them ending with a "3") have a lot of functionality that sounds like would be helpful to you and the noise / distortion performance is very good.

Are one of the units from this line measured? I have two main concerns with this thing. First of all it says built in DSP which hints at an extra ANALOG->DIGITAL then DIGITAL->ANALOG stage in the signal chain which is something I want to avoid. I don't want any conversion in my signal chain after the RME DAC. That is very important to me. Otherwise, it seems resources are put into this product that could be spent purely on amplification.

No we don’t. Wel tell you to put most of your resources there that could be money, but may also be research, time, etc. It will pay off 100x more than fussing over amps. That’s just the reality, and I think you know this very well already.

Having said this, I think the suggestion for a Fusion amp with DSP and multiple channels may be a useful option for you, even though it’s a bit more expensive. It will give you way more flexibility to tinker with your speaker stuff.

Same as above^^^ just want gain plain and simple gain no DSP. There must be brands that just focus exclusively on signal amplification?