- Thread Starter
- #21
Thank you for the suggestion, speakers on the kitchen island is certainly A choice.View attachment 524549
Would you consider this?
When I used to live in a small apartment, I would have my dining table pushed against the wall. It was fine, I lived alone. But when friends came over, I pushed the listening sofa closer to the speakers and pulled the dining table out. You might have to do the same.
I guess the expensive solution is to close off the kitchen with a new wall, but I don't have that option in practice.
Is there anything you can glean from the measurements? I think my room is still a little too lively and it can get messy on some tracks.
Didn't know about this website, thanks.As the C8C are more or less omni in the subbass it might be interesting to simulate the room and move speaker and listener around a bit with https://www.vesalaasanen.com/tools/room-mode-calculator
There is a thread here, too.
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Room simulator for non-shoebox rooms
Couldn't find a room mode simulator that handled anything other than shoebox rooms, so I made one. Been using it for my own projects, but decided to throw it online. https://www.vesalaasanen.com/tools/room-mode-calculator Rectangular rooms do the usual analytical mode calculation. The more...www.audiosciencereview.com
Tried to get as close as reasonably possible to my room. The results don't quite match, I assume that partially because I have a door leading to the corridor that is open most of the day, and rather thin and undercut for airflow.
Room Mode Calculator
Calculate room modes, standing waves, and resonant frequencies for any room shape. Free online acoustics tool with pressure mapping and source optimization.
www.vesalaasanen.com
Dimensions are more or less correct, do you have any takeaway from this?
Placing a loudspeaker in front of a window is a compromise to be sure, but one that lots of people accept.
That's fair. I considered the option but this window is the main light source in the room and sunlight enters the living room from that it. Moving some things around, I did end up with 2.2 m between the acoustical centres of my speaker and 2.75 m from the acoustical centres to my listening position.
Yes, I'm thinking of more things to dampen the room a bit, the question is what. Another thing is that I switched to the Harman Curve with is more bass heavy that the AcoustiX curve, and it is more pleasing for the moment, but I'm also losing some of the head room.Initially I thought the same, but a closer look and looking at it by decade, below 100 Hz is highest, 100-1000 Hz is a bit lower, and 1000-10000 Hz is lower again. Pretty good! If @kharan smoothed his response curves to half octave or even full octave, it might look quite sweet.
Also, looking at the EQ above the bass, there is already a couple of dB of lift through the midrange, and the treble is left relatively untouched. I wouldn't want to increase that for fear of changing the direct / anechoic sound quality, which I believe is excellent for those speakers. Remembering that direct sound FR is the primary component of perceived sound quality. For speakers that are naturally excellent in that regard, it is highly desirable to minimise its EQ above the bass.
@kharan if you are finding it a bit bright consistently, with excellent recordings, then (with such excellent speakers) I would suggest that you 'soften the room' a bit with absorption, such as fatter couches, heavier curtains (even where there is no window!), and dense carpeting/rugs.
In general it's not a good idea to boost dips in the frequency response. It might conceivably be done in a very few cases, like when a speaker is located near the null of a room mode. But your speakers are located in corners, so they will excite the modes maximally. The dip is likely due to the listening position being located in a null.
How does the L+R measurement look like? Use Var smoothing to see full resolution and how narrow the dip at 50 Hz really is? Is it audible? It could possibly the null of the lowest lying mode in the width direction. If so, try to move the MLP a little to the side, and see if it makes a difference. It may sacrifice exact stereo symmetry, but if you gain a smoother bass it might be an acceptable tradeoff.
Here you go, left channel first, Raw, with AcoustiX curve, with Harman curve, with L+R Harman, and then Harman left at a higher SPL 90 dB with pink noise. With Var Smoothing.
Then right channel with the same.
I'm not sure what's happening with the treble L+R measurement exhibits a dip, is that typical, some kind of destructive interference?