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Speaker connectors, Which one is better?

You must be inexperienced in these matters yourself. Please stop spreading bad advice.
It would help if you explain why this is bad advice
 
It would help if you explain why this is bad advice
You're responding to a post that's almost 4 years old, from a poster who hasn't been here in over 2 years ... :facepalm:
 
You're responding to a post that's almost 4 years old, from a poster who hasn't been here in over 2 years ... :facepalm:
Indeed I did not investigate if he (Or she?) was still there....
 
Lads, I recently got hold of some CMC BFA plugs. I went ahead and plugged them into my speaker(Focal) & amplifier(NAD) terminals and found them not going in anything more than about 5mm or so. The plugs have a contact pin/rod in the middle to keep the thin, rolled protruding tube from being deformed or losing its shape if pressed too hard, etc. Strangely, I could get my other hollow BFA plugs into these fully as they should with a little force. I feel that the hard rod-like pin is causing the malleable tube not to narrow when inserted. What do you think I should do? Should I use a pair of pliers and gently squeeze around the tubes to reduce their thickness and allow them to go in easily? Please let me know. Thank you.
 
I found these to be excellent, gold lacquered
3.jpg
SP1.jpg

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The problem is with some female banana plugs, often made in China, which are shorter:

problem_SP.jpg
 
I found these to be excellent, gold lacquered
I am long time user, and fond of these :

Senza titolo.jpg


Endures every abuse, and always get stable contact. ;)
 
All I can say is "Tube Connectors". The future of audio.......LOL.
 
I am long time user, and fond of these :

View attachment 542298

Endures every abuse, and always get stable contact. ;)
Very nice, the Viborgs are also very expensive.

Here is the budget version - copper alloy.

And these just say copper.

If I had both at hand, I could weigh them and see if there is a difference. I think it's just the text and pics, basically the same product.
 
copper alloy.
Brass or bronze are some of the most common copper alloys. They are harder, and in the case of bronze, a lubricant can be embedded.
Pros/cons: The lubricant can be conductive and, in some cases, highly conductive, like graphite. They are usually used in rotating parts like drifters/top hammers. Some bronze alloys are very expensive in comparison. Unfortunately, the alloy can also mean there was a poor process in creating the bronze or brass with unknown quantities of impurities.

Bronze and brass both (usually) have much higher impact resistance and are usually not the better choice for terminal ends from the purest point of view.

I like copper, BUT I still have several speakers that were built with bronze speaker terminal ends that only require periodic maintenance for tarnish buildup. They can build resistance in the connection and cause contact issues without periodic maintenance. Usually, just unplug/and plug back in for a quicky. Alcohol for cleaning and a light application of contact enhancer/sealant does wonders in marine or harsh environmental conditions, especially in ocean or brackish applications. Drilling/boring are other conditions that require a much higher maintenance interval.

Regards
 
I think if we move to measure speaker cables built with pure copper, copper alloy, cheap(er) brass and then different kinds of bananas we will find that there is not much difference in terms of resistance and capacity. The cable being the biggest part of the small sum. If the cable is fitted properly to the banana.

But then the connection with the terminal - fit, contact area, pressure, pressure change over time, degradation of the contact.

Quite some bananas do not seem to be an optimal construction in my opinion. All these split metal sheets f.e. - if they are thick and the material is sturdy, sure. But many of them are thin and the material can give way over time.
 
I think if we move to measure speaker cables built with pure copper, copper alloy, cheap(er) brass and then different kinds of bananas we will find that there is not much difference in terms of resistance and capacity. The cable being the biggest part of the small sum. If the cable is fitted properly to the banana.

But then the connection with the terminal - Fit, contact area, pressure, pressure change over time, degradation of the contact.
Personally, I can't recall the exact number of times in low-voltage high-amperage applications I've had to clean, clean, clean the contact area to make a good contact.

In HiFi repair, maybe under 30 times. In the world of HD or DOT, likely in the thousands of times over a 45+ year period.

I learned never to trust anything when it comes to electrical connections in general. It never hurts to be thorough and, in turn, be safe.

EX: the whole 2.0 terminal burnt off and dangling in the wind in 3 feet of drying grout usually just as the sun is going down and my supper is getting cold. LOL

Regards
 
Tinning with solder is so 20th century... Brittle, subject to corrosion and compression. Not a good idea for any type of low resistance clamped banana or screw terminal. Pretty sure it is 100% illegal for anything mains rated here.

Ferrules are infinitely better, and required in EU countries in order to obtain CE marking. Here's a couple I just crimped up on a scrap of wire.

round die brass:
View attachment 205372

square crimped tinned copper ferrule:
View attachment 205373
Yeah, I crimp a tinned copper ferrule before inserting into Parts Express brass locking bananas that I think Amir mentioned he uses.

gmexbmbsa3obxxsbw8z733z3gv45yu4b.jpg
 
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