Capitol C
Active Member
Agreed. Go with 14 gauge and make it lamp
Not only would 14 gauge be fine, it would be easier to use and much cheaper. Put your money where it would do some good!
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Speaker cable advice
- Thread starter Jason Shep
- Start date
The ratio of impedance between the speaker and the speaker wire is important although that link I connected you with takes all that into account and simplifies the matters for you to choose a wire for your application. Then there is the marketing and distribution of wire and 14G is not generally as popular as 12G and so sometimes you will find 12G at a better price than 14G wire. 12G wire will guarantee you have a good ratio between the speaker impedance and the wire impedance and not have any weird stuff occurring that affects the sound quality.
CDMC
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For less than $100 you can get a pair of Blue Jeans cables made with Belden 5000UE wire, ultrasonically welded (i.e. gas tight) to good locking bananas. While the cable will have no effect on the sound, a poor or corroded connection between the wire and connector, or connector and amp/speaker can and will increase distortion (see Amir’s test where inadequately tightening the terminals on an amp resulted in a significant increase in distortion). I think the question is why buy something other than these.
The only time I ever had cables affect my sound was when the solder on an expensive set of Wireworld cables corroded and it took me forever to figure out why my speaker seemed to be blown. No reason other than poor materials construction it corroded, I live in California in a dry climate.
^
While I don't completely disagree, you can do this for a lot less that what BJC charges. Welding/Soldering are completely unnecessary.
I agree that a good pair of Locking Banana Plugs can be beneficial, they aren't always as necessary unless you have a bad fit between other brand Banana Plug and your Binding Posts.
As an example, I have Monoprice Choice 12AWG and the Monoprice Affinity Banana Plugs.
These Bananas had at one point(~2018, iirc) been tested by some group or another and showed themselves to be the most conductive option. They feature dual opposing set screws so when properly installed the wire will not pull free from the plug itself.
Monoprice also offers a 90º Banana Plug option which I really like for the connection to the Speaker, but not behind the AVR.
@soerenssen Make certain whatever you do buy, you buy enough cable to have some slack in your runs. You do not want the cable to be pulling on either end, and you should have enough slack to be able to move your equipment some without having to undo the cabling first. Personally, I shoot for an additional 2-3 feet over what is necessary to complete the run itself. If you have your receiver on a shelf or in a cubby and have to pull it out to work on, that 2-3 feet gets eaten up fast!
While I don't completely disagree, you can do this for a lot less that what BJC charges. Welding/Soldering are completely unnecessary.
I agree that a good pair of Locking Banana Plugs can be beneficial, they aren't always as necessary unless you have a bad fit between other brand Banana Plug and your Binding Posts.
As an example, I have Monoprice Choice 12AWG and the Monoprice Affinity Banana Plugs.
These Bananas had at one point(~2018, iirc) been tested by some group or another and showed themselves to be the most conductive option. They feature dual opposing set screws so when properly installed the wire will not pull free from the plug itself.
Monoprice also offers a 90º Banana Plug option which I really like for the connection to the Speaker, but not behind the AVR.
@soerenssen Make certain whatever you do buy, you buy enough cable to have some slack in your runs. You do not want the cable to be pulling on either end, and you should have enough slack to be able to move your equipment some without having to undo the cabling first. Personally, I shoot for an additional 2-3 feet over what is necessary to complete the run itself. If you have your receiver on a shelf or in a cubby and have to pull it out to work on, that 2-3 feet gets eaten up fast!
Bren Derlin
Active Member
If the speaker isn't going through the walls, then Monoprice 12g
If the speaker IS going through the walls, then Monoprice CL2 12g
With these... monoprice banana clips (right angle)
or these... Monoprice banana clips (straight)
If find the right angle clips are great for stand mount speakers, and fitting the amp in a tight space...
You're welcome.
If the speaker IS going through the walls, then Monoprice CL2 12g
With these... monoprice banana clips (right angle)
or these... Monoprice banana clips (straight)
If find the right angle clips are great for stand mount speakers, and fitting the amp in a tight space...
You're welcome.
Bren Derlin
Active Member
Or those...
Dude.... great minds.... Looks like you hit "reply" as I was typing... LOL
soerenssen
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Lots of useful info here, thank you!
The Monoprice 12AWG is crazy expensive here, so I will need an alternative to that. I'm sure there are lots of options here too, I just don't know what is a reliable option, like Monoprice in the US.
In the EU, 12 AWG is 2.05mm diameter and 3.31 mm2 cross-section.
What about this one?
or this:
The Monoprice 12AWG is crazy expensive here, so I will need an alternative to that. I'm sure there are lots of options here too, I just don't know what is a reliable option, like Monoprice in the US.
In the EU, 12 AWG is 2.05mm diameter and 3.31 mm2 cross-section.
What about this one?
or this:
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Bren Derlin
Active Member
What is the price of a 50ft run of Monoprice 12g speaker wire in Germany? It's all of $30 USD here... Would love to know the price comparison for the European market.
Midwest Blade
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Mogami 3103, pretty sure you can find this in the uk, connectors if your choice.
The first of those (KabelDirect) is the exact one I use here. It is fine. Nice and flexible. Plenty of copper
soerenssen
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2.5mm2 (a bit less than 13g) or 4mm2 (halfway bitween 11g and 12g) for the Kefs?The first of those (KabelDirect) is the exact one I use here. It is fine. Nice and flexible. Plenty of copper
Also, I'm trying to decide between mono blocks vs. a stereo amp. With the monos I would have max.1m of speaker cable, with the stereo amp around 2-2.5m. Will such a distance make any difference (e.g. in distortion)?
Those distances don't matter. Same with the choice of wire gauge. Just make certain the cable you are buying is pure copper, not copper-clad. A lot of inexpensive stuff on Amazon is the latter...not all, but enough that you need to read the descriptions carefully.
What Amps are you considering? (ooc)
soerenssen
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NCx500 for a pair of Kef reference 3 meta LR and r6 meta center. 3 mono blocks or 3-channel. I'm not sure that a single 1200W SMSP is sufficient / has enough reserve for two amps in a stereo setup.
Both speakers can go down to 3.2 ohm, 86 and 87dB sensitivity, 300 and 250W respectively.
While it won’t fully power all 3 amps to max output, iirc, there is never a use case I am aware of that would demand that much power simultaneously delivered to all 3 channels… and if it did, you would be replacing your Speakers, your Amps… and buying hearing aids.
To be fair, I run monoblocks. Not because I needed them… just wanted.
Regardless, this is bordering on a personal values based decision. I can well appreciate wanting to know your Amps won’t be power-limited, even if that is well above and beyond the level with which your Speakers and ears may tap out.
Killingbeans
Major Contributor
Thomann has some options from Cordial and Sommer Cable.
If you want some really cheap non BS cable, the stuff used for solar power installations seems to be a good bet, if you can find a place that sells it.
soerenssen
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The recommended setup for the Kef Reference 3 is a pair of mono (bridged) AHB2. I don't have the budget for that, so I'm looking for the same amount of grunt with the same or less amount of distortion for cheaper. I don't know if class A or AB or D will make a difference and I cannot compare them unfortunately. I don't even know what amp was driving it in the shop because as a long-time reader of this forum, I try to believe that it doesn't matter, as long as it has enough current. I won't use any op amps initially to color the sound in any way. I'm still not sure if a stereo NCx500 were sufficient or better to go for a dual mono setup for the piece of mind and less strain on the SMPS.While it won’t fully power all 3 amps to max output, iirc, there is never a use case I am aware of that would demand that much power simultaneously delivered to all 3 channels… and if it did, you would be replacing your Speakers, your Amps… and buying hearing aids.
To be fair, I run monoblocks. Not because I needed them… just wanted.
Regardless, this is bordering on a personal values based decision. I can well appreciate wanting to know your Amps won’t be power-limited, even if that is well above and beyond the level with which your Speakers and ears may tap out.
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soerenssen
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But back to the topic: if I understand correctly, it's irrelevant if it's a Blue Jeans, Mogami, Cordial, Sommer or Kabeldirekt, it all comes down to availability and price at the end. Right?
Killingbeans
Major Contributor
Yes. If the local hardware store has some dirt cheap all copper "lamp cord" with sufficient gauge, you can even use that without any problems.
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