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Solder Info for DIY Headphone Cables

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Racheski

Racheski

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Thanks for the advice all -
-I ended up going with a cheaper soldering station that has more features, including helping hands, an extra set of tips, solder sucker, and a solder spool holder: YIHUA 926 III 60W
-I changed my mind and went with lead-free solder. I didn't like the thought of lead solder remaining in the cable, as irrational a thought that may be: Mandala Crafts Lead Free, 100g, 0.5mm

I'll keep folks updated on the progress. I'm also thinking about writing a soup to nuts beginner's guide to DIY headphone cables, because all of the write-ups online omit most of the details.
 

andymok

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for FX-888D, get a tip like D16 / D24 with large tin surface area, plus a type-B will serve most of your needs
if you don;'t use it that often, just get a FX-600, same tip types as FX-888D

0.8 mm is the perfect size for general XLR/TRS soldering

plier is more useful than a helping hand, in the field we solder with bare-hands if needed to lol
 

Martin

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I taught myself how to solder on several DiyAudio amplifier projects using WBT-0800 lead free silver solder. (At the time I bought into the audiophool BS but now have enough WBT-0800 I'll probably never need to buy more.) My solder joints looked textbook perfect from the very start. I had never soldered anything before taking on these projects. If you learn on lead free you'll have no problem. I believe those that complain about it started with lead based solder.

I've made a number of XLR cables using this set-up.

I use a Weller digital soldering station and a cheap set of helping hands.

Martin
 
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Racheski

Racheski

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60W for lead free is borderline, I wouldn't go below 80W, for lead it'd be alright.
Specs say I should be OK and I’m just a hobbyist. Even the FX888D is only 70 watts, but I’ll keep that in mind.
 

Neutron

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Specs say I should be OK and I’m just a hobbyist. Even the FX888D is only 70 watts, but I’ll keep that in mind.

Soldering isn't all about power. For cable making, I am doing fine with FX888D. You need to pick the correct tip for suitable heat capacity, so that it won't drop in temp too quickly during transfer to the work-piece. I use 1.6mm chisel tip without problem under 615F. If you go higher there is a chance you can melt plastic/resin parts of the connector.

Those irons with ceramic heat-chambers maintain temperature better, so you can quickly work through a dozen joints on the PCB. With FX888D, you need to wait for a sec between joints.

One recommendation, use leaded solder. There is no need to go lead-free.
 

Count Arthur

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I won't accept anything less than...

1593453243626.png
 

Neutron

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TBH, I think you better of buy cables instead of making it. Good connectors are expensive alone, and with your investment in tools, you can buy a good one without teaching yourself through that troublesome process.
 
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Racheski

Racheski

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TBH, I think you better of buy cables instead of making it. Good connectors are expensive alone, and with your investment in tools, you can buy a good one without teaching yourself through that troublesome process.
I'm not really doing this for financial reasons, although not counting the time spent on the labor, a decent cable for the HD800S is about the same price as the equipment.
 

Bob-23

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I'm not really doing this for financial reasons
If it was only for a single cable, you, indeed, shoudn't buy these tools. But - apart from the fun (!!!) of diy - cables always break, connections in the phones always break, connections and connectors get loose. And it's always good to counter Senn's absurd prices for cables. And you might want to add a (simple, selfmade) filter to your phones. A soldering station is, in any case, a useful investment, not only for your audio gear. A typical case is a failing computer monitor, and, mostly, it's one or two capacitors in the SMPS, which have to be exchanged - and the monitors' livespan is doubled.
 

Neutron

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I'm not really doing this for financial reasons, although not counting the time spent on the labor, a decent cable for the HD800S is about the same price as the equipment.

Cable making is not fun in my book. I got paranoid when I broke wires removing the cable jack. I spent $90 on several pairs of cutters, and they all do the same thing. Then connector sometimes doesn't like the diameter of my cables, and I have to be creative. Some are just hard to work with. Just too much hassle for one cable.

BTW, I just ordered a TS80P to see how well it trade blows with 888d.
 
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raindance

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I use 60/40 solder with a 60 watt Weller iron. Sometimes I use silver solder, which is similar, just has a little silver added. Both leaded.

Weller irons are great, you can change the operating temperature by changing the tip.
 

don'ttrustauthority

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What do you suggest for a diy amplifier? Never soiled myself before.
 

raindance

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I hope you never soil yourself :cool:

Just use regular 60/40 rosin core.
 

levimax

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What do you suggest for a diy amplifier? Never soiled myself before.

I built this one https://sound-au.com/project113.htm. It is probably not quite up to @Amirs -120 dB SINAD standard but with good op amps it is not bad. The big thing it has going for it is that it does not depend on a op amp for the output (they can struggle sometime with current and or voltage as you can see from Amirs reviews). The discrete output transistors and +/- 15 volt rails mean there is power to spare whether 600 Ohm or 30 Ohm headphones.

Ooops read your question wrong :).... use 63 / 37 rosin core... I find it is a little easier to use than standard 60 / 40.
 
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Ceveton

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Working with modern electronics without a soldering station is difficult. However, choosing a quality soldering station, especially if it fits into a limited budget, is not so easy. Therefore, I found the site , collected all the interesting information on soldering stations. I learned a lot of new things to work with him.
 
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