Solder Info for DIY Headphone Cables

[Racheski]

I am a purchasing equipment to make DIY Headphone Cables for a HD800s, and it would be great if the community could check the soldering materials & equipment I plan to purchase. I read through these posts on the forum:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/flux.12645/
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/rca-soldering-on-a-pcb.9577/
Please note this is my first DIY headphone cable, and I have zero soldering experience. I probably will do the work on top of my granite kitchen island.

Soldering Station: Hakko FX-888D ($105)
It is about double the price of more budget options, but from what I have read it is highly recommended. I like its modular design, and seems like this would be the first and last hobby-grade soldering iron I would need to purchase.

Solder Wire
I'm not in love with the thought of purchasing lead-based solder, but my research says lead-free is more difficult to work with (especially for beginners) because of a higher melting temp, and a longer dwell time. I am aware that the EU banned the use of lead in electronics in 2006, but metal lead is very inert so as long as I practice good hygiene, I think I'll be OK.
I plan to use 63/37 solder since it is eutectic and more beginner-friendly according to this guy (https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder). With that out of the way, let's look at some price points and options for 63/37 on Amazon:
RadioShack 1.5 oz 1.27mm 63/37 - $4.67/oz
MAIYUM 100g 0.6mm 63/37 - $2.81/oz
Kester Rosin Core 1lb, 0.5mm 63/37 - $2.31/oz
J&F Rosin Core 100g, 0.5mm 63/37 - $1.98/oz
Kester Activated Rosin, No Clean, 1 lb, 0.78mm 63/37 - $1.66/oz
Kester 1 lb, 0.78mm 63/37 - $1.63/oz
Kester 1 lb, 0.5mm 63/37 - $1.62/oz

This is where I get confused - what diameter wire should I use? Seems like the smaller the better for this application. Should I use "Activated" and "No Clean" solder? I'm leaning towards the MAIYUM because I doubt that I will ever need more than 100g of wire & it is recommended for electronics, but I could be convinced otherwise.

The silver doped solder seems like audiofool bs (http://www.circuitnet.com/experts/86531.html )

Helping Hands
The cheap ones <$15 all have mixed reviews. The ones between $30-$40 seem like overkill. Can someone recommend one? Is an attached magnifying lens useful?
I like this one because it has adjustable clamps, magnifying lens, and LED lights for about $20: Carson Helping Hands
If the magnifying lens is unnecessary, these seem like a good option for $30: QuadHands Mini Helping Hands

Soldering Fundamentals:
What is the best soldering 101 resource I should read?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Doodski]

Use 0.5mm 63/37 with just enough heat to melt it and it looks shiny and smooth after it cools and it makes a nice plume of smoke. If too hot the solder will not look good. Practice a few times on something and then plan/measure for the cuts on the cable and then it's solder time.

 

[Doodski]

 

[Racheski]

Use 0.5mm 63/37 with just enough heat to melt it and it looks shiny and smooth after it cools and it makes a nice plume of smoke. If too hot the solder will not look good. Practice a few times on something and then plan/measure for the cuts on the cable and then it's solder time.

But there are multiple options for 0.5mm 63/37....

 

[Doodski]

I always buy Kester 63/37 because that's what I am accustomed to and I know what to expect. Solder is not rocket science but bad solder is a pain in the butt and good solder just works well.

 

[Doodski]

This is what I buy. It's expensive but it's good stuff.>
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-63...8&sprefix=solder+63,aps,150&sr=8-7&pldnSite=1

 

[Doodski]

If you are on a budget then buy the inexpensive stuff but if you have that nice Hakko iron and you plan on using it for some stuff then you'll need a pound of it eventually.

 

[Racheski]

This is what I buy. It's expensive but it's good stuff.>
https://www.amazon.com/Kester-24-6337-0010-Rosin-Solder-SPOOL/dp/B00068IJWC/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2OUJ1Y1O8MW20&dchild=1&keywords=solder+63/37&qid=1593371228&sprefix=solder+63,aps,150&sr=8-7&pldnSite=1

This is 3.3% flux which is higher than the other options. Is more flux = more better?

 

[Doodski]

This is 3.3% flux which is higher than the other options. Is more flux = more better?

More flux is always better for what I use it for. It will make the soldering easier for you by making the solder flow better.

 

[Doodski]

A suggestion for you is to get a old electronic printed circuit board(PCB) and use that to practice soldering and to get the iron temperature where you like it and use some wire to practice on too. The best way to learn to solder is to solder.

 

[Racheski]

A suggestion for you is to get a old electronic printed circuit board(PCB) and use that to practice soldering and to get the iron temperature where you like it and use some wire to practice on too. The best way to learn to solder is to solder.

Thanks for the advice. There are some cheap beginner kits on Amazon that I"ll practice on.

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

Soldering Station: Hakko FX-888D ($105)
It is about double the price of more budget options, but from what I have read it is highly recommended. I like its modular design, and seems like this would be the first and last hobby-grade soldering iron I would need to purchase.

No need to spring for that one. You can get a Weller WLC100 station for $40. I’ve been soldering my own wires and cables for decades; this one works just fine. Just change out the fat tip it comes with for a slim Weller SP7. It will work much, much better for soldering connectors.

This is where I get confused - what diameter wire should I use? Seems like the smaller the better for this application. Should I use "Activated" and "No Clean" solder? I'm leaning towards the MAIYUM because I doubt that I will ever need more than 100g of wire & it is recommended for electronics, but I could be convinced otherwise.

The slim 0.31 is best for making cables. The 63/37 will work fine.

Soldering Fundamentals:
What is the best soldering 101 resource I should read?

Right here. Specific to making audio cables. If your headphone plug is going to be 3.5mm, pay attention to Post #11.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[JeffS7444]

The only time I use leaded solder any more is when I work on equipment which predates ROHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances) circa 2002.

This is what I use for all newer construction: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10242
Flows beautifully, the smoke smells a bit like burnt sugar (but I'd still try not to breathe it). Silver content is there to prevent leaching of silver from silver plated devices including diodes and switches.

Flux is water-wash type. I use an old toothbrush moistened in tap water and scrub away all flux residue, pat circuit boards dry with clean moist sponge afterwards and they look like they've been professionally cleaned.

 

[Racheski]

No need to spring for that one. You can get a Weller WLC100 station for $40. I’ve been soldering my own wires and cables for decades; this one works just fine. Just change out the fat tip it comes with for a slim Weller SP7. It will work much, much better for soldering connectors.



The slim 0.31 is best for making cables. The 63/37 will work fine.



Right here. Specific to making audio cables. If your headphone plug is going to be 3.5mm, pay attention to Post #11.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Thanks for the tips!
Where can I find the 0.31 wire you are specifically referring to?

 

[Count Arthur]

I've made a fair few cables over the years.

I have a fairly basic Antex soldering iron, which came with a stand: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Antex-K9...ds=antex+soldering+iron&qid=1593384422&sr=8-5

A cheap set of helping hands: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Magnifier-Crocodile-Magnifying-Soldering-Jewellery/dp/B0724ZNNGW/ref=sr_1_58?crid=23NLY2V9R9153&dchild=1&keywords=helping+hands+soldering&qid=1593384965&sprefix=Helping+Hands,kitchen,230&sr=8-58

I also have a big spool of WBT lead/silver solder that I bought when when they introduced the ROHS rules and I thought they might ban leaded solder. It looks like this isn't going to happen for DIY use, so I probably have a lifetime supply. In any case, it's really nice to work with, it has a low melting temperature, flows easily and seems to always give perfect, shiny joints: https://www.amazon.co.uk/WBT-0800-Silver-Solder-1-0m-Length/dp/B008QM2NAE

 

[Racheski]

I've made a fair few cables over the years.
A cheap set of helping hands: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Magnifier-Crocodile-Magnifying-Soldering-Jewellery/dp/B0724ZNNGW/ref=sr_1_58?crid=23NLY2V9R9153&dchild=1&keywords=helping+hands+soldering&qid=1593384965&sprefix=Helping+Hands,kitchen,230&sr=8-58

Do you usually use the magnifying glass or not?

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

Thanks for the tips!
Where can I find the 0.31 wire you are specifically referring to?

One of the links in your opening post:

https://smile.amazon.com/Kester-24-...d=1593371228&sprefix=solder+63,aps,150&sr=8-6

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[Count Arthur]

Do you usually use the magnifying glass or not?

I have used it on occassion, but not for cables.

 

[levimax]

I have the Hakko FX-888 solder station and can highly recommend it. A bit of over kill but well worth it... make sure you get the extra tips .... for cables you want to use the "big heavy" tip to get heat into the big heavy connectors... for small PCB work you want to use the small tips.... the right tip is very important depending on the job. It also sounds like a small detail but I find the "solder holder" to be a very helpful https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-611-1-...&keywords=solder+holder&qid=1593404166&sr=8-5 it makes it easy to find solder and keep workbench organized but more importantly allow for smooth and easy feed of the solder... without it a big spool of solder is hard to deal with as are smaller rolls. A 1 pound roll on a holder works perfectly. Enjoy.

 

[Bob-23]

...it also depends on if you only want to solder these connectors or if you don't want to exclude the possibility of maybe soldering your own amp. If it's goin' to become your hobby, I usually recommend for leaded solder a station of at least 60 Watts, better 80 Watts, for lead-free at least 80 Watts, better 100 Watts; chisel tip of 1,6 mm is a good compromise, not to big, not to small, avoid pointed tips: heat transfer is miserable. 0.5 mm solder is also a good size, having additional one with 1 mm for where there is a lot of metall is not wrong. No-clean can remain on the board, activated flux has to be removed after soldering, it's to aggressive, usually you don't need it. You can make your own flux by solving 20 g of raisin in 20 ml isopropylalcohol. This flux you can remain on the board, it even adds a protection layer on the soldering joints, it gets hard as glass. Avoid inhaling the fume (of the flux), build yourself a fume extractor. Wash your hands before eating something after soldering with lead. Or, use one way gloves. Depending on your eyes, a LED magnifying lamp with is highly recommended, 1,75 x. And get a Third Hand. - Have a lot of fun!