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Sold my Nord Three 1ET7040SA Monos — Upgrading to 1ET9040BA MB MKII Flagship

I have no problem with the OP wanting to own one of the finest amps on the market for whatever reason.
Without knowing which speakers the OP is using or how loud he likes to listen on occasion or how large the listening area is, we do not have enough information to know whether the upgrade is likely to deliver audible results.
I hope he enjoys his new amps.
a few hints
- his friend was there and listened, so the old amp should have no problem driving the speakers
- there is no (serious) speaker in this world that 1ET7040SA Mono Block could not drive to deafening level. It pumps 250w into 8ohm, and double that for 4ohm. Show me a speaker that needs more than that

so I'm sure it was not audible. I did not judge his decision to "upgrade" though. His money his choice, and that was not a bad choice.
 
In the new Nord Three 1ET9040BA mono amps, I was specifically referring to the Weiss BP2 op-amp used in the input buffer, but I didn’t make that clear enough. To clarify, I’d measure it in-circuit under identical conditions, keeping the gain, load, supply voltage, and source material constant. By comparing the noise floor, THD+N, frequency response, output level, DC offset, and stability, you can see where the buffer’s behavior ends and the Purifi module’s behavior begins. Since the change is in the buffer stage, the comparison should be framed as a careful listening or measurement test of that specific stage, not proof of a universal result
I could probably cite Purifi’s specs for the 7040 vs the 9040, but I just based it on the OP:

“These units utilize the Purifi 1ET9040BA module, offering superior performance over the 1ET7040SA with <0.0001% THD+N, a 137dB SNR, and higher damping factors. Featuring the Nord REV D input buffer and specialized Hypex power supplies, they deliver 375W/8Ω, 750W/4Ω, and 925W/2Ω for significantly increased output headroom. [1]
My objectives for this upgrade, beyond pure curiosity, focus on these measurable technical improvements:

  • Ultra-low distortion and noise floor: <0.0001% THD+N (vs 0.00035% on the 7040SA) and a 137dB SNR (vs 129dB) for enhanced transparency.
  • High damping factors: >500 (vs ~400) for superior bass control and authority with demanding speakers.
  • Increased dynamic headroom: 375W/8Ω, 750W/4Ω, and 925W/2Ω (compared to 250W/8Ω, 500W/4Ω, and 950W/2Ω).”
What I didn't make clear enough is that since amplifier - and not module - measurements are not provided, nobody knows if there is an actual improvement. The performance of such amplifiers is not the one from the module used, it is the one from the association module - input stage - power supply.
The buffer performance is now critical is overall performance, and installing a low noise low distortion opamp is not enough to justify a good performance.
 
a few hints
- his friend was there and listened, so the old amp should have no problem driving the speakers
- there is no (serious) speaker in this world that 1ET7040SA Mono Block could not drive to deafening level. It pumps 250w into 8ohm, and double that for 4ohm. Show me a speaker that needs more than that

so I'm sure it was not audible. I did not judge his decision to "upgrade" though. His money his choice, and that was not a bad choice.
Congratulations on being able to come to firm conclusions without data. What do you consider a deafening level?
135dB? 120dB? 105dB?
It just so happens that I enjoy listening to my stereo at "deafening levels". I don't do it for long periods of time because I do value my hearing. Make of it what you will.
 
a few hints
- his friend was there and listened, so the old amp should have no problem driving the speakers
- there is no (serious) speaker in this world that 1ET7040SA Mono Block could not drive to deafening level. It pumps 250w into 8ohm, and double that for 4ohm. Show me a speaker that needs more than that

so I'm sure it was not audible. I did not judge his decision to "upgrade" though. His money his choice, and that was not a bad choice.
Another hint
 

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Apparently the OP's speakers are Paradigm Founder 120H. High sensitivity, I think the low noise floor of the amp is more important than the total power.

 
Upgrading amp for better sound is an entirely different thing though

Guess you don’t understand.

There will be no audible difference in the sound of the amplifiers. Between the limitations of human hearing and the general noise in the listening room, making any choice based on audible factors is impossible
with these amps.

This is not opinion, it’s fact.

The distortion and noise is buried beneath 40-60dB of environmental noise.

Also, the difference in headroom between 250W and 375W amps is a bit more than 1dB. That’s it. Sorry, but if you want to comment on the subject, you should know that.

If your system never had any issues with the old amps, switching to the new ones will make no difference. There is no magic to be had. It’s a brick that takes a line level signal and boosts it so it can drive loudspeakers. That’s all.

Spend your money stupidly. Makes no difference to me.

You want to call it out to the world and exclaim, “Look what I’ve done!”? Don’t expect resounding approval.
 
Guess you don’t understand.

There will be no audible difference in the sound of the amplifiers. Between the limitations of human hearing and the general noise in the listening room, making any choice based on audible factors is impossible
with these amps.

This is not opinion, it’s fact.

The distortion and noise is buried beneath 40-60dB of environmental noise.

Also, the difference in headroom between 250W and 375W amps is a bit more than 1dB. That’s it. Sorry, but if you want to comment on the subject, you should know that.

If your system never had any issues with the old amps, switching to the new ones will make no difference. There is no magic to be had. It’s a brick that takes a line level signal and boosts it so it can drive loudspeakers. That’s all.

Spend your money stupidly. Makes no difference to me.

You want to call it out to the world and exclaim, “Look what I’ve done!”? Don’t expect resounding approval.
That is exactly what I was implying. I do not judge if someone upgrade their amp because they want nice thing. I will however if they expect audible difference, especially if their old amp is already very competent
 
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Then I think you are on the wrong place here to share your latest buy...and the list of your HiFi gadget costing 000' while adding nothing to the sound is simply challenging on this forum
How would you know they add nothing to the sound ? By the way, If talking about our latest purchases is “bragging,” then constantly signaling superior knowledge is the same thing in a different outfit. In that sense, we’re doing the same human thing and clearly belong to the same community – just choosing different trophies to show.
 
Sometimes I just give stuff to my friends or sell with 'honour pricing', as it makes them happy, so I'm happy too. I can't take it with me...
 
Folks, let's not argue about everything. Op was happy to buy a new amp. Let's let him be.
Amen to that. It feels like — every — single — thread — these days turns into some kind of semantic, glass-half-full, hair-splitting, I’m-smarter-than-you, argument. Really sucks the fun out of things.
 
Apparently the OP's speakers are Paradigm Founder 120H. High sensitivity, I think the low noise floor of the amp is more important than the total power.


The noise floor factor is a great point. I’ve used my Buckeye Purifi 9040 to drive high sensitivity speakers (Power Sound Audio MTM212) and the silence at idle is impressive. I’ve also used them to drive lower sensitivity Revels, and the amp has the muscle to handle low impedance frequency dips, and the damping factor to exert control. A real “Swiss Army Knife” monoblock amp. I can’t speak personally about the Nord version, but I expect the OP will be a happy camper.
 
Some of us buy what we want because we just want it. Let's face it, cars, interior, exterior, home, and furniture are different colors for a reason, not to mention the clothes we wear. There is primer under that paint that no one will ever see, but will enjoy the benefit it brings in the long run.

Much like the OPs' choice of amps, no one on this forum could tell the difference, distortion-wise, from my older NC500s and either of the Purify amps, especially on those speakers. I have a few pairs of older Klipsch speakers and a pair of Jenesen Imperials DM300 @ 102-106 sensitivity. The noise floor is absolutely ZERO with any of the newer Hypex or Purify modules. The problem is blowing VERY expensive drivers if you sit on the remote and go from 0-100 in .5 seconds, or worse, make a boo-boo and flip them off and on by mistake while blasting. There goes 3-5K for some drivers in my case.

I'm a Nord and Sparco buffer fan and have been for a while. I had the original NC500 that was recalled for rev C buffers that were replaced at no charge because of stock voltage regulator failures. I could not hear any difference, but as a person who has had to make many factory changes through the years for people I worked with, I appreciated the fact that it was done quickly and at no charge to me.

The next-gen rev D boards were sold to me as a mere convenience, and I believe at around 75.-100.00 per buffer. The socket was changed, and some minor resistor upgrades from iron to copper, and the dual OpAmp sockets were added, for pro and normal OpAmp sockets. Once again, I couldn't hear any difference.

As far as the whole fuse sounding different or better, I went through FREE fistfuls of different fuses and came to the conclusion I never could hear a difference, BUT noticed no further heaving from the fuses when I observed them on startup. The problem with a glass or ceramic tube and the fuse element, heaving/moving, and flexing on startup, is a serious problem in all equipment that vibrates, mainly on initial startup.

The problem is that while that tiny wire is moving around, there is a VERY high probability of failure accompanied by extreme cold or heat, either ambient or introduced by the environment. The bigger problem for ALL of the companies that were using stock tube fuses was the location of the fuse, how difficult it was to access, replace, and then reset the system. It literally brought the whole machine down.

I still have a few of the fuses that were Bussman (I believe), and they saved a lot of money overall for about 20-30.00 usd. It had nothing to do with sound, but it sure did save countless road calls from South America to the top of Canada and beyond.

The fuse controlled a very accurate computer control system for .250 accuracy while core-drilling columns. MANY vertical bores were made over the last 35 years as seismic retrofits in/on many bridges, overpasses, and other high-dollar structures.

Fancy fuses for sound, I've never heard a difference, but for reliability, they have saved millions/billions in the real world of foundational and structural drilling, just to mention a few, and added the needed protection to 50-130k computer systems that took weeks to have replaced or repaired.

The way certain fuses are made and dampened is a pretty cool thing to study from a mechanics perspective, BUT then I'm pretty easily amused.

OP, I wish you well and hope you enjoy your new amps as I have enjoyed several products from Nord. I love the cases and the consistency of build times.

My issue is VAT I have to deal with from the UK. Nord is not the least expensive amp builder out there, but they sure have the best-looking case (in my opinion). I never had any questions that weren't answered by the owner at Nord or Andrew at Sparco. They are both a great bunch to work with. Considering my systems are usually built around Mcintosh SS/Valve and Cary valve amps. Nord is a lot lighter and cooler to deal with. My issues with the newer class Ds are that they sound too good, LOL I kid you not!

I still drop the needle, use cassettes, RtR, and of course CDs. I sure like the convenience of Spotify, though. I've always used "The Music Channels" from the 70s onward, though.

BTW, I'm listening to a C20 (Samra build) MC225/MC240 and a pair of Infinity RS4Bs (which are well over 50 years old), BUT very well maintained. Sound-wise, that system puts every amp and speaker combination on notice at my home/shop. I will listen to that system for 6-8 hours straight with only a food break today. I'm comparing that to 30+ pairs (in hand) of well over 110 pairs of speakers I've built or owned. Some of those speakers won best in show several years at CES.

My personal opinion is that some things need a little distortion. LOL

Regards
 
a few hints
- his friend was there and listened, so the old amp should have no problem driving the speakers
- there is no (serious) speaker in this world that 1ET7040SA Mono Block could not drive to deafening level. It pumps 250w into 8ohm, and double that for 4ohm. Show me a speaker that needs more than that

so I'm sure it was not audible. I did not judge his decision to "upgrade" though. His money his choice, and that was not a bad choice.
A few years ago I convinced myself to buy KEF Blade 2 meta loudspeakers. Easily the best on demo, with the caveat that a decent amp was used (same for any speaker).. The dealer demo’d the speakers with an amp which was very expensive (I was prepared to be impressed) but was clearly broken with very obvious intermod distortion particularly noticeable on choral music. A low feedback design, I subsequently discovered with 0.3% IMD. I diplomatically suggested to the dealer that the amp was a little out of my price range and that perhaps a Rotel Michi amp sitting on the shelf might be nearer my price bracket. IMD problem for the demo solved. I did however buy March Audio P501 Purifi 7040 based designs with MicroAudio SMPS. I was aware that the Purifi 9040 amp had been announced but I surmised that delivery would be very long in the future. I wasn’t wrong. The 7040 amplifiers, with standard TI opamps have dynamics way beyond the limits of human hearing and I don’t need the additional power of 9040 so, no, I won’t be ‘upgrading’.
The only other caveat I would add is related to dc coupled power amps and not the 7040/9040 debate. If you drive the amps direct from a DAC without a high pass filter be prepared for dc dropouts (the amps disable at high volume) on some early CDs (80’s and 90’s) where the audio is polluted with DC. I have a lot of such CDs. My solution was to treat myself to a RME AD1 2/4 pro SE with the necessary HPF.
 
Over the past five years, I've bought at least fifteen amplifiers, and never was the idea of hearing better sound.
We can have countless reasons for buying something new; I do it all the time.
 
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