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SMSL RAW-MDA 1 DAC & Headphone Amp Review

Rate this DAC & HP Amp

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 3 0.9%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 9 2.7%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 30 9.1%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 288 87.3%

  • Total voters
    330
You can't run EqualizerAPO then (or other EQ software?).
You can run EQ Software within the playback software that's outputting via ASIO/Wasapi Exclusive. For example, MathAudio Headphone EQ for foobar2000.
 
You can run EQ Software within the playback software that's outputting via ASIO/Wasapi Exclusive. For example, MathAudio Headphone EQ for foobar2000.
I'll have to look into that. It would be great if I get it running.
 
That the incoming audio stream from your computer is using a 48kHz sample rate.


That's because macOS and Windows will resample all audio to one uniform sample rate before sending that to your DAC.

You can configure that sample rate in the Midi control panel on Mac and the Sound Control Panel on Windows.

If you'd like that sample rate to adapt to your tracks' native sample rate, them take a look at LosslessSwitcher for Mac or ASIO/Wasapi Exclusive playback for Windows.
That worked a treat, thanks (again) static!
 
Very specific question here. I absolutely love this DAC (many thanks to this forum) and one of the best parts is the number of inputs the 4 toslink. However, I find myself needing one more. Is anyone using the USB-c in? I would love to be able to connect my TV and/or Bluray player. The TV has HDMI out and the Bluray has coax out (with the HDMI out being connected to the TV--no eARC). It seems that converters abound when in reverse (usb to hdmi) but what I need (hdmi or coax to usb) seems rare. And even when one is found, this forum shows that this type of gear can have a wide range of quality. This thing seems close?

So, looking for specific recommendations if you have them

Or maybe even ideas for a workaround.

Or maybe you have advice to stay away from this kinda thing?

Want to keep this project under $100 if possible. Thanks in advance!
 
Is anyone using the USB-c in? I would love to be able to connect my TV and/or Bluray player. The TV has HDMI out and the Bluray has coax out (with the HDMI out being connected to the TV--no eARC). It seems that converters abound when in reverse (usb to hdmi) but what I need (hdmi or coax to usb) seems rare. And even when one is found, this forum shows that this type of gear can have a wide range of quality. This thing seems close?
A fundamental misunderstanding:

The SMSL is a USB slave device whose USB input can only be utilized by a corresponding USB host device, like a PC, Mac, or Raspberry Pi.

Every dedicated USB<->SPDIF converter that you can find online is itself a USB slave device and therefore can either be used to output SPDIF from a USB Host or feed SPDIF into a USB host.

None can act as USB host themselves to feed audio into a USB slave device like the SMSL.


If you need more SPDIF inputs, consider buying a Coax<->Toslink converter to turn e.g. three Toslink sources into 2xToslink and 1xCoax.

Alternatively, buy a Toslink switch to plug multiple Toslink sources into a single SMSL Toslink input.
Automatic switches are available.

Edit:
A few select TV models can act as USB host and output audio to external DACs that way.
 
However, I find myself needing one more.
I have the SMSL D-6s (the RAW MDA was not yet there) and I want to route all audio (TV, PC, CD) through the WiiM Pro because I want to have room-correction for all audio sources. The WiiM Pro just has one (1) Toslink input, so I was looking for a Toslink switch and found this one:

The bright blue LED is nasty, but the automatic source switching indeed works perfectly.
Whenever only one of the three Toslink inputs is playing audio, the device routes this input to the output after a few seconds. It seems to identify the audio stream is "active" or "idle" no matter if the red LED is lit up on several Toslink sources.
Playing from the PC with e.g. foobar2k via a PO100 (USB -> Toslink) and pausing or stopping the title in foobar2k suffices. When I then turn on the TV the Toslink switch automatically switches to the source TV. Of course you can switch manually using the remote control (not infrared although it looks like; it obviously uses RF transmission) in case several audio sources are active at the same time. I ended up fully relying on the automatic switching of the Toslink switch - no need to use the remote control.
Edit: I forgot to mention that there is a button on the Toslink switch itself for selecting the source.
 
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Wondering why the PCM filters on my RAW MDA1 appear to have a different name to those in the instruction leaflet and what I've seen on YouTube videos?
 
Wondering why the PCM filters on my RAW MDA1 appear to have a different name to those in the instruction leaflet and what I've seen on YouTube videos?
Have you checked the latest manual (Link)?

The filters were adjusted in a firmware update since they were originally mislabeled and some still are. See here and here.
 
Thanks for the hint - looks like "super bright LEDs" are a frequent annoyance. And I think blue is particularly strenuous for the eyes - but with the name Coolidea they probably had no choice when it came to the color of the LEDs ... :cool:
At some point I might just change the series resistors of the LEDs to maybe 10x their value. At the moment the device is hidden behind all kinds of cables so it doesn't really bother me.
 
Have you checked the latest manual (Link)?

The filters were adjusted in a firmware update since they were originally mislabeled and some still are. See here and here.
Many thanks.

And is the concensus to essentially try each one and go with the one that sounds best? Or is there a more scientific approach?
 
Many thanks.

And is the concensus to essentially try each one and go with the one that sounds best? Or is there a more scientific approach?
The most accurate filter is a linear phase filter with fast roll off. Try filter 3 and possibly also filters 2 and 4 for the latest firmware.
 
hi guys. quick question. are the issues with pops clicks etc, fixed? cheers
 
I'm still looking for solutions to solve this on MacOS. Keeping Qobuz up helps a lot at least.

Does anyone know what a white and red 'H' icon on my unit means?
Is it only sample rate changes or also when there is a pause between playback?
 
Hello everyone. Will this device be better than the DAC of the Marantz cd6000 (ose ki) in you opinion? Is there enyone who can compare budget-level DAC like smsl do100 pro or subj with dac of an brandname CD player?
 
Is there enyone who can compare budget-level DAC like smsl do100 pro or subj with dac of an brandname CD player?
 
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