Sorry what filter is this? The DAC offers FL1-5, FL5 being no filter if I understood well.Usually I like mini filter.
Sorry what filter is this? The DAC offers FL1-5, FL5 being no filter if I understood well.Usually I like mini filter.
Check the manual and it will explain which filter is which.Sorry what filter is this? The DAC offers FL1-5, FL5 being no filter if I understood well.
Filter 2 would be my general recommendation as that has extended frequency response, fast roll off and linear phase.Hi, I just bought this DAC and I know audio like a five year old. Would you be kind enought to tell me what filter should I use?
Check the manual and it will explain which filter is which.
View attachment 500876
I would use F1 or F2 on this DAC. F2 is the closest to what I used on my other DAC labeled as "Mini" which is Minimum Phase Fast
Thanks!Filter 2 would be my general recommendation as that has extended frequency response, fast roll off and linear phase.
These filters are measurably different in pre/post-ringing and phase linearity. It's a mix of trade-offs.Hi, I just bought this DAC and I know audio like a five year old. Would you be kind enought to tell me what filter should I use?
Man thank you so much for this detailed explanation, it's very clear and helped me a long way! I'll take a moment and try to hear any difference between the filters using both speakers and headphoned. Odds are my bad hearing will miss everything...These filters are measurably different in pre/post-ringing and phase linearity. It's a mix of trade-offs.
Your room will mask at least approximatelty 82.6% of the ringing (My personal opinion). And more linear, or compensated phase is best on paper. But the human ear's sensitivity for phase shifting is still a topic of dabate in places where debates take place, which means: almost nobody can consistently hear it. The placement of your speakers and speakers with passive crossovers will alter the phase much more than your DAC filter setting, and no speaker review ever mentions phase linearity more than almost not. That should tell you enough. Don't be afraid to admit you can't hear a difference. I don't. For Headphones or near-field listening: then it matters. A little.
NOS, or: no filter, is for the NOS-curious... Maybe it is what you are looking for? On paper it is not advisible, but according to some it's the only true way to listen, like God intended. Again: do not be afraid to admit not hearing a difference, or worse: liking it. it adds distortion, and though distortion sounds like a dirty word: it also really is. But do not overestimate your aversion to said distortion. My first stereo probably had 10% THD+N when not playing any music at all, and man, did it sound great. Because it was mine, loud and it pissed off my parents.
- Slow means less ringing (=better) but less attenuation (=worse). It's a trade-off.
- Phase compensated is best, but comes with some latency, due to processing time. If you don't hear the audio lagging behind what you see in movies or gaming, you're ok. For music this is the default.
I'd set it to F4 and forget about it. You do you.
if it muted i suggest the problem might be the source muting after a period of inactivity, and if it's via usb, my suggestion would be to look at how your computer handles (perceived) inactivity
fwiw, i have connected via optical (cleaner chain, no faffing with usb drivers which are reportedly problematic on zen 2 & 3 based machines), and in my vigorous use since earlier this week, it has no time out on any output to headphones or unbalanced (or all) there is no issue such as you report
if it's balanced output, i can't comment on the situation
most of my use has been akg q701 - higher impedance, but apparently easier to drive than the fostex seem, and yes, they need to be turned up much higher than the ath ad700, but even the focal elear doesn't seem to need a great boost to sound great
it's not so much that the quality isn't great, but you need a much lower impedance to drive your phones than the available options; maybe it cuts out from overloading the amplifier at higher output, given the requirements? not competent to say if that's a real possibility here, but other contributors may be able to offer assessment of that being a cause
claude told me :
The Fostex T50RP MKII is notoriously difficult to drive despite its modest specs on paper:
With 16Ω output impedance:
- Impedance: 50Ω
- Sensitivity: ~92 dB/mW (very low for a 50Ω headphone)
With 32Ω output impedance:
- Damping factor = 50 ÷ 16 = 3.1:1 (below the ideal 8:1)
- This will result in looser bass, reduced control, and slightly altered frequency response
- You'll likely get enough volume, but sound quality won't be optimal
The Real Problem:The T50RP's low sensitivity is the bigger issue. These planar magnetic headphones are power-hungry and really need a proper headphone amplifier with:
- Damping factor = 50 ÷ 32 = 1.6:1 (quite poor)
- Significant bass bloat and loss of control
- Noticeable degradation in sound quality
- Not recommended
Sources with 16-32Ω output impedance are designed for high-impedance headphones (250-600Ω), not the T50RP.
- Low output impedance (<2Ω ideally)
- High current output (planar magnetics need lots of current)
Bottom line: Neither option is ideal, but if forced to choose, 16Ω is less bad than 32Ω. However, the T50RP really deserves a dedicated solid-state amp with <2Ω output impedance and sufficient power to unlock their potential.
so it seems you have bought a knife to a gunfight
claude continues, with my further query:
Yes, lower output impedance is definitely better for the T50RP MKII.
Why lower is better:
Ideal for T50RP MKII:
- Better damping factor = tighter bass, more controlled sound, flatter frequency response
- More accurate sound = the headphones perform closer to their design intent
- Less coloration = output impedance won't alter the tonal balance
But there's a second requirement:
- Output impedance: <2Ω (ideally <1Ω)
- This gives you a damping factor of 25:1 or better
Low output impedance alone isn't enough. The T50RP also needs sufficient power/current because of its low sensitivity (92 dB/mW).
A typical phone might have 1Ω output impedance but only delivers 10-20mW, which will give you:
What you actually need:A headphone amp with:
- Good damping (tight, controlled sound) ✓
- But insufficient volume ✗
Examples of good matches:
- Low output impedance (<2Ω)
- AND enough power output (100-500mW into 50Ω)
These typically have <0.5Ω output impedance AND plenty of power for the T50RP's inefficiency.
- Schiit Magni/Heresy
- JDS Labs Atom
- Topping L30
- O2 amplifier
so it would seem the problem is not the smsl "quality", it's the inappropriate pairing
hope that's helpful for your situation
the reported "cirrus hump" - how does that differ from the equally vilified "ess hump", and have subsequent releases based on the ess not ess-entially smoothed it to inconsequential?
is the measurement from amirm fabrication? or do you have current measurements to contest his findings ?
genuinely interested as to why this device is so "bad" as to my delicate cochleas it's up there with the topping e70
thanks for any information, but it will still sound very acceptable capable to me regardless