• Welcome to ASR. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

SMSL D1 - ROHM DAC for everyone

Just received one I purchase for curiosity... hooked to a SMSL Sanskrit Pha headset amp.
No touch command issue.
Working flawlessly for the first hours.
I switched from a SMSL D6 AK4493, and my first subjective feeling is that sound stage is wider and I will wait for some weeks to confirm about the subjective details rendering (Jazz, Metals, Electro...).
In all case, I would say that it is a fair bargain for a entry level DAC.
Can the TOS-Link OPT connector on the rear panel be connected properly? The D1 I purchased had a loose connection and came loose easily.
 
Can the TOS-Link OPT connector on the rear panel be connected properly? The D1 I purchased had a loose connection and came loose easily.
The Toslink sockets used in the D1 are indeed a bit loose. Together with a Toslink connector that is slightly undersized, the mount does not work well.
Unfortunately, this has been a growing problem for a few years. Initially, there were plugs and sockets that were almost impossible to fit together, and then the tolerances became too large, especially with inexpensive components.

Metal plugs exacerbate the problem due to their weight and material. Furthermore, the plastic sockets are damaged when using metal plugs.
 
The Toslink sockets used in the D1 are indeed a bit loose. Together with a Toslink connector that is slightly undersized, the mount does not work well.
Unfortunately, this has been a growing problem for a few years. Initially, there were plugs and sockets that were almost impossible to fit together, and then the tolerances became too large, especially with inexpensive components.

Metal plugs exacerbate the problem due to their weight and material. Furthermore, the plastic sockets are damaged when using metal plugs.
I tried a aliexpress 1.5$ Toslink cable with it and its no loose issue.
 
I tried a aliexpress 1.5$ Toslink cable with it and its no loose issue.
That's good. Please be so kind and post the link to the cable for everyone.
 
Sure here the cheap cable:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...st_main.5.3c315e5b34Ji2L&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra

That is not a supra premium cable but its work as expected ;-)
Thank you.
There are no supra premium cables when it comes to optical cables.
There are optical cables with a plastic core for the optical signals and others with a quartz glass core. The latter is many times more expensive, at least €40, and much more sensitive. The rest is made up of the plastic connectors and a solid, thin plastic sheathing around the cable.
Metal connectors, gold plating, thick sheathing, etc., are complete nonsense and often even detrimental.
 
Thank you.
There are no supra premium cables when it comes to optical cables.
There are optical cables with a plastic core for the optical signals and others with a quartz glass core. The latter is many times more expensive, at least €40, and much more sensitive. The rest is made up of the plastic connectors and a solid, thin plastic sheathing around the cable.
Metal connectors, gold plating, thick sheathing, etc., are complete nonsense and often even detrimental.
i recently got a couple of very short toslink cables from AE, for connecting WiiM Ultra to Vibelink , both work perfectly fine
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32375632470.html (D4, 18cm)
 
The plastic core are fine. I had not used Toslink for 20 years until getting a WiiM Mini. The gimme WiiM cable was fine. Found some glass cables in cable room. Checked visually to see all the strands. Worked the same at one or two meters.
Used a cheap microscope to check cables. The glass has 100’s of fibers. Plastic has one. Read where cable sellers say the ends are polished to reduce bounce back and jitter.
Looked at five plastic Toslink cables to see if any are polished. None were perfect. But one looked like I had chewed it in two. The really bad looking cable works fine.
 
What was wrong with the toslink cable supplied in the box, with the Wiim Ultra? I use this between my Ultra and my Vibelink and have so far not detected any issues
He didn't say anything about that.
He simply ordered shorter cables, probably significantly shorter than the one included, and shared his experience and where to get them.
 
What was wrong with the toslink cable supplied in the box, with the Wiim Ultra? I use this between my Ultra and my Vibelink and have so far not detected any issues
nothing, i don't have where to hide the standard 1.5m toslink cable in my Vibelink/Ultra/PL150 setup. Also using short stereo 3.5mm cable that came with Chromecast Audio, as remote trigger between them..fits perfectly
 
He didn't say anything about that.
He simply ordered shorter cables, probably significantly shorter than the one included, and shared his experience and where to get them.
Aaah, he just wanted some shorter ones. I was a bit confused because when I just took a quick look at the picture it looked just like the one supplied.
Now you made me want a shorter one as well... still talking about optical cables
 
Well, having had the D1 for a few days now and comparing it to Topping E50 I can't say I notice any difference on the desktop system
It might reveal something if I try it out on the main system (and louder volume) but for now I think the purchase was unnecessary, but at least not expensive
Switched a new D1 in and out with an SU-1 repeatedly and came to a similar conclusion -- keeping the SU-1 and sending the D1 back. Not a blind test, but as good as I could manage -- same volume (assuming correctness of their identical output ratings) and same music selections -- and I found it very hard to define any difference. I do prefer the aluminum face and physical button of the SU-1.
 
Switched a new D1 in and out with an SU-1 repeatedly and came to a similar conclusion -- keeping the SU-1 and sending the D1 back. Not a blind test, but as good as I could manage -- same volume (assuming correctness of their identical output ratings) and same music selections -- and I found it very hard to define any difference. I do prefer the aluminum face and physical button of the SU-1.
welcome to the club of the "dacs don't matter that much" for us, the 99% that do not have a golden ear, they all sound slightly different but it is just "different" and not "better"
 
Last edited:
Switched a new D1 in and out with an SU-1 repeatedly and came to a similar conclusion -- keeping the SU-1 and sending the D1 back. Not a blind test, but as good as I could manage -- same volume (assuming correctness of their identical output ratings) and same music selections -- and I found it very hard to define any difference. I do prefer the aluminum face and physical button of the SU-1.
As it's now I'd recommend PS200 for two reasons: The led lights are less bright than on SU1 plus added BT support.
 
Adding my data point to the thread. I received my D1 last week and have been running it in my desktop system (PC USB -> D1 -> Fosi ZP3 -> KEF LS50 + Sub).

I can't comment on the loose Toslink issue as I'm using USB exclusively, which was the main draw for me. The ability to get this level of measured performance from a single USB-C cable for both power and data is a huge functional win for keeping my desk setup clean. The D1's internal power filtering seems very effective; the noise floor is subjectively inaudible with zero hiss from the PC's 5V rail.

If I had to point out a compromise for the minimalist design and price point, it would be the front panel. The touch-sensitive buttons for power and input selection aren't my favorite; they lack tactile feedback and I occasionally brush them by accident. A simple physical button would have been preferable, even if it broke the completely flat aesthetic.

That minor usability gripe aside, the audio output is impeccably clean. While I wouldn't claim to hear the difference between a SINAD of 115 vs 120, what I can say is the D1 is completely transparent and free of any audible glare on revealing speakers. For me, the value proposition is the combination of state-of-the-art performance in a compact, practical, and bus-powered form factor. It's a very compelling device, despite the finicky touch controls.
 
Here is my 5 cents about this device.
I have been using two different CS41131 based dongles (Moondrop Dawn Pro and the TRN Black Pearl ) to drive my desktop analog Class A headphone amplifier into Audio Technica ATH-R70Xa. I used 3.5mm TRS to RCA cables.
Both dongles had a digital hash/ground loop issues in this setup. The TRN was better than the Moondrop by a few dB. It was not a very prominent noise, but it was audible with higher volumes. So I decided to get a DAC with a separate power supply and hopefully get rid of the ground loop and digital switching noise.
This little DAC came up in the search and I found it for $71.00 on Amazon so I grabbed it.
Today I tied into my system using a dedicated USB power supply (not using the computer for power) and optical SPDIF signal from an RME audio interface.

First of all it's dead quiet. I can turn the volume on the headphone amp to the max and I can't hear any hiss. So that's a win right there.
Second, the first impression is that the sound has a different character than the dongles. Whereas the CS41131 DAC has this top end detail and clarity to it, the Rohm DAC seems to be a touch softer in the treble and the low mids and bass are more distinct. Not louder, but different. Overall a very pleasant sound.
It's just the first listening impression, but in this short experience I definitely like what I hear. This little DAC is a keeper.
 
Second, the first impression is that the sound has a different character than the dongles. Whereas the CS41131 DAC has this top end detail and clarity to it, the Rohm DAC seems to be a touch softer in the treble and the low mids and bass are more distinct. Not louder, but different. Overall a very pleasant sound.
... and how did you arrive at this conclusion?


JSmith
 
Here is my 5 cents about this device.
I have been using two different CS41131 based dongles (Moondrop Dawn Pro and the TRN Black Pearl ) to drive my desktop analog Class A headphone amplifier into Audio Technica ATH-R70Xa. I used 3.5mm TRS to RCA cables.
Both dongles had a digital hash/ground loop issues in this setup. The TRN was better than the Moondrop by a few dB. It was not a very prominent noise, but it was audible with higher volumes. So I decided to get a DAC with a separate power supply and hopefully get rid of the ground loop and digital switching noise.
This little DAC came up in the search and I found it for $71.00 on Amazon so I grabbed it.
Today I tied into my system using a dedicated USB power supply (not using the computer for power) and optical SPDIF signal from an RME audio interface.

First of all it's dead quiet. I can turn the volume on the headphone amp to the max and I can't hear any hiss. So that's a win right there.
Second, the first impression is that the sound has a different character than the dongles. Whereas the CS41131 DAC has this top end detail and clarity to it, the Rohm DAC seems to be a touch softer in the treble and the low mids and bass are more distinct. Not louder, but different. Overall a very pleasant sound.
It's just the first listening impression, but in this short experience I definitely like what I hear. This little DAC is a keeper.
have you tried stopping a 90% volume on your dongle dacs to lower the noise floor from the dongle dac itself ? thd+n goes up between 90% and 100% volume as you can see below
 

Attachments

  • TRN_BP_UnBal_THDN_Lvl_all_loads.png
    TRN_BP_UnBal_THDN_Lvl_all_loads.png
    127.3 KB · Views: 32
Back
Top Bottom