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SMSL D1 - ROHM DAC for everyone

I just received a D1 from the latest batch with the shortened internal springs. The sensors rely on harder pressing...but obviously too hard to work [it did work occasionally].

Can't switch it on anymore - any recommendations?...see video:

Funny enough, mine d1 works like having trigger function. I connect the d1 to my raspberry pi 5 by usb c, turning on the raspberry pi 5 triggers the d1 to turn on automatically and powering off the raspberry pi 5 powers off the d1. Works like a charm, even though I am not sure thats actually the original design feature
 
You can’t dismiss measurements unless you pass a volume matched blind test. If both dacs have a noise floor and distortion below –100 db, a flat frequency response, and a reconstruction filter with acceptable attenuation, and you can still reliably distinguish between them in a volume matched blind test, only then can your evaluations be considered free of cognitive bias.

View attachment 472771
That's the only way to overcome our cognitive biases.


As to the D1, this little rascal sounds really good with my stereo system. My "cognitive bias" expected a lean and harsh sound at this price. Somebody must have switched it off. How could we properly evaluate sound quality before measurements are being performed ;)?
 
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As to the D1, this little rascal sounds really good with my stereo system. My "cognitive bias" expected a lean and harsh sound at this price. Somebody must have switched it off. How could we properly evaluate sound quality before measurements are being performed ;)?
How did you manage to turn it on anyway?..
 
Good question: lots of unplugging...and, I think when the spring is stuck on one side, it kinda works on the other. I now leave it on and switch the power supply off ;). I use the allo Shanti linear power supply that costs twice as much as the D1 (and is 8 times as big)...had it lying around.
you describe sound and not lean.
Can you please tell whether sound is not too soft , too dull ? If I have already warm sounding speakers. Will it match?
 
you describe sound and not lean.
Can you please tell whether sound is not too soft , too dull ? If I have already warm sounding speakers. Will it match?
Why do you keep asking these types of questions after being given all the information and evidence about DAC's not imparting such a sound?


JSmith
 
The new D200 is showing up. It uses the same dac chip. Plus is full featured. And at least for now 400% the cost of the D1.
I assume at these issues are addressed.
 
The new D200 is showing up. It uses the same dac chip. Plus is full featured. And at least for now 400% the cost of the D1.
I assume at these issues are addressed.

Glad I bought 2 D1's then.
 
The new D200 is showing up. It uses the same dac chip. Plus is full featured. And at least for now 400% the cost of the D1.
I assume at these issues are addressed.
Delighted that the tweaked D1 is working perfectly and delivering superb audio.
319 USD for a D200? I’ll skip it, same sound anyway.
 
I think that the touch action cannot be detected when your hand is touching the D1 case. I think that it will work if you remove your hand from the D1 case and touch only the touch button.
I experimented with mine a bit more and i can pick it up, have it touching the PC's case and the touch button works without issues. Sold my first D1 and bought a second one. Not a single damn issue.
 
Good question: lots of unplugging...and, I think when the spring is stuck on one side, it kinda works on the other. I now leave it on and switch the power supply off ;). I use the allo Shanti linear power supply that costs twice as much as the D1 (and is 8 times as big)...had it lying around.
Why don't you try the simple mod with the sticky tape?
You only have to loosen four screws.
 
Update Touch Mod!

If the Tesafilm Mod was too mundane for you, there's the PETG Touch Mod.
3D printed from PETG, which simply clips onto the spring.
D1 PETG Touch Mod STL file
It's printed with PETG and a 0.4 mm or 0.2 mm nozzle. Make sure that only one layer of 0.2 mm is printed in the slicer for the surface.
The clip is first placed over the end of the spring and then clipped on with light pressure. You may need to gently push the last part of the spring in with your fingernail.

It worked perfectly for me right away.

View attachment 462304View attachment 462305

Hello,

I just got the D1 and wanted to take a quick look inside. I noticed that the touch sensor springs are now glued or fixed to the front panel, which prevents me from removing the main PCB. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how were you able to remove the PCB in this situation?

Thanks,
B.
 
Hello,

I just got the D1 and wanted to take a quick look inside. I noticed that the touch sensor springs are now glued or fixed to the front panel, which prevents me from removing the main PCB. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how were you able to remove the PCB in this situation?

Thanks,
B.
That's definitely new.
Can you see how the springs are attached?
Are you having problems with the two touch buttons, or does this solve the problem?
 
That's definitely new.
Can you see how the springs are attached?
Are you having problems with the two touch buttons, or does this solve the problem?
It’s hard to say for sure, since I can only remove the entire back panel, but it feels like it’s glued to the back of the front panel. Maybe they used strong double-sided tape to isolate the spring from the metal.

That said, I haven’t had any issues with the touch interface. I already tried to replicate the cases reported on this forum earlier, and it seems to be working more reliably. You do need to press it firmly for it to respond, so either the insulation/glue/whatever is affecting it, or they also reduced the sensor’s sensitivity, but the response is OK.

Bottom line: the problem appears to be fixed, but you can no longer fully disassemble the unit without prying the plexiglass off the front panel to reach the screws underneath (if you wanted to make DIY modifications to the board).
 
Just received one I purchase for curiosity... hooked to a SMSL Sanskrit Pha headset amp.
No touch command issue.
Working flawlessly for the first hours.
I switched from a SMSL D6 AK4493, and my first subjective feeling is that sound stage is wider and I will wait for some weeks to confirm about the subjective details rendering (Jazz, Metals, Electro...).
In all case, I would say that it is a fair bargain for a entry level DAC.
 
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