Good question: lots of unplugging...and, I think when the spring is stuck on one side, it kinda works on the other. I now leave it on and switch the power supply offHow did you manage to turn it on anyway?..
you describe sound and not lean.Good question: lots of unplugging...and, I think when the spring is stuck on one side, it kinda works on the other. I now leave it on and switch the power supply off. I use the allo Shanti linear power supply that costs twice as much as the D1 (and is 8 times as big)...had it lying around.
Why do you keep asking these types of questions after being given all the information and evidence about DAC's not imparting such a sound?you describe sound and not lean.
Can you please tell whether sound is not too soft , too dull ? If I have already warm sounding speakers. Will it match?
The new D200 is showing up. It uses the same dac chip. Plus is full featured. And at least for now 400% the cost of the D1.
I assume at these issues are addressed.
Delighted that the tweaked D1 is working perfectly and delivering superb audio.The new D200 is showing up. It uses the same dac chip. Plus is full featured. And at least for now 400% the cost of the D1.
I assume at these issues are addressed.
I experimented with mine a bit more and i can pick it up, have it touching the PC's case and the touch button works without issues. Sold my first D1 and bought a second one. Not a single damn issue.I think that the touch action cannot be detected when your hand is touching the D1 case. I think that it will work if you remove your hand from the D1 case and touch only the touch button.
Why don't you try the simple mod with the sticky tape?Good question: lots of unplugging...and, I think when the spring is stuck on one side, it kinda works on the other. I now leave it on and switch the power supply off. I use the allo Shanti linear power supply that costs twice as much as the D1 (and is 8 times as big)...had it lying around.
Update Touch Mod!
If the Tesafilm Mod was too mundane for you, there's the PETG Touch Mod.
3D printed from PETG, which simply clips onto the spring.
D1 PETG Touch Mod STL file
It's printed with PETG and a 0.4 mm or 0.2 mm nozzle. Make sure that only one layer of 0.2 mm is printed in the slicer for the surface.
The clip is first placed over the end of the spring and then clipped on with light pressure. You may need to gently push the last part of the spring in with your fingernail.
It worked perfectly for me right away.
View attachment 462304View attachment 462305
That's definitely new.Hello,
I just got the D1 and wanted to take a quick look inside. I noticed that the touch sensor springs are now glued or fixed to the front panel, which prevents me from removing the main PCB. Has anyone else experienced this? If so, how were you able to remove the PCB in this situation?
Thanks,
B.
It’s hard to say for sure, since I can only remove the entire back panel, but it feels like it’s glued to the back of the front panel. Maybe they used strong double-sided tape to isolate the spring from the metal.That's definitely new.
Can you see how the springs are attached?
Are you having problems with the two touch buttons, or does this solve the problem?
Can the TOS-Link OPT connector on the rear panel be connected properly? The D1 I purchased had a loose connection and came loose easily.Just received one I purchase for curiosity... hooked to a SMSL Sanskrit Pha headset amp.
No touch command issue.
Working flawlessly for the first hours.
I switched from a SMSL D6 AK4493, and my first subjective feeling is that sound stage is wider and I will wait for some weeks to confirm about the subjective details rendering (Jazz, Metals, Electro...).
In all case, I would say that it is a fair bargain for a entry level DAC.
The Toslink sockets used in the D1 are indeed a bit loose. Together with a Toslink connector that is slightly undersized, the mount does not work well.Can the TOS-Link OPT connector on the rear panel be connected properly? The D1 I purchased had a loose connection and came loose easily.
I tried a aliexpress 1.5$ Toslink cable with it and its no loose issue.The Toslink sockets used in the D1 are indeed a bit loose. Together with a Toslink connector that is slightly undersized, the mount does not work well.
Unfortunately, this has been a growing problem for a few years. Initially, there were plugs and sockets that were almost impossible to fit together, and then the tolerances became too large, especially with inexpensive components.
Metal plugs exacerbate the problem due to their weight and material. Furthermore, the plastic sockets are damaged when using metal plugs.
Thank you.Sure here the cheap cable:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...st_main.5.3c315e5b34Ji2L&gatewayAdapt=glo2fra
That is not a supra premium cable but its work as expected ;-)
i recently got a couple of very short toslink cables from AE, for connecting WiiM Ultra to Vibelink , both work perfectly fineThank you.
There are no supra premium cables when it comes to optical cables.
There are optical cables with a plastic core for the optical signals and others with a quartz glass core. The latter is many times more expensive, at least €40, and much more sensitive. The rest is made up of the plastic connectors and a solid, thin plastic sheathing around the cable.
Metal connectors, gold plating, thick sheathing, etc., are complete nonsense and often even detrimental.