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Small 2-way speakers with linear on-axis and power response characteristics (Scan Speak and SB Acoustics drivers). H&V off-axis measurements included

If I want the thd filter mod. I would still need both right? Or is there an easy way to modify the main board?
 
Before the audio show, I experimented a bit more with the THD trap. This time I used a 0.1mH inductor and a 5.1uF capacitor, without a resistor. I measured the impedance characteristics of the resonant circuit, disconnected the midwoofer from the crossover, and measured the near-field SPL, where the driver's breakup frequency was clearly visible. I noticed that the two frequencies didn't match very precisely. The impedance peak was at a slightly lower frequency than the breakup (around 7kHz vs. 7.15kHz). I unwinded the coil until the two frequencies matched. Below is a comparison with the measurement of the previous THD trap implementation.

It seems the thd level of the 2.4kHz peak (the breakup frequency is at the third harmonic of this frequency) has been reduced additional few dBs.
View attachment 495796
It should be noted that this is a comparison with the measurements taken months earlier and I'm not really sure how well the measurement conditions were replicated (background noise, signal levels, driver copies used, etc).

With 96dB level max thd is still around -40dB (i.e.1%), at least not much more.
View attachment 495797
I could not find the 4.7u or the 5.1u on parts list (page 1). @XMechanik could you add a update parts section for the reduced THD?
 
I am working on building a set of these myself, and I figured I would share the Tinkercad designs I made to get the panels cut and machined. Should be exact matches for the original designs (provided I sketched them correctly). Holes for the binding posts on the back panel are 7mm in diameter, for the Dayton Audio BPA-38G Banana Jack Binding Posts. Can export in STL, OBJ, or SVG format, and/or copy and modify the design, just have to sign up for a free account with Tinkercad.

Tinkercad designs:
Front
Back
Sides
Top/bottom
 
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I got the Monacor MBR-35 port. Am I supposed to glue it so that it's sealed or something? Or can I just use a screw for the two pre driller holes it has?
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I suspect a small screw or pop rivet would work just fine. I imagine it's made of ABS plastic, so it could be glued with ABS glue or even wrap the joint with vinyl tape.
 
Random update on my passive radiator version of this speaker. I originally had the PR loaded with 20g of weight, but always felt like the speaker had a high pass filter on it. I knew I was sacrificing SPL for extension here, but apparently it was too much. Got some free time to remove the weights and all the bass is back. Vcad tells me that with no additional weight my SB acoustics 5x8 PR should give the best roll off. Just a small tid bit to think about if you make a PR version, I would advise not adding too much weight (or in this case any) to whatever PR you use.
 
The box is filled with polyester fiber. To prevent it getting into the speaker basket, I put a thin mesh on the filling.
OMG that is ingenious! And so simple. Coming to this thread late I hope there is/will be a 6.5" version...I love well done waveguided tweeters, so many advantages.
 
Hello again, I've just finished up a second pair of Mechano23s for another friend (not selling these btw, I just build for fun). My buddy liked the looks of the Dali Kupid speakers, so this pair was inspired by that design. I'm really happy with how they turned out. As expected, they sound excellent too. Thank you again for sharing your designs XMechanik.

The boxes are 19mm MDF. They are painted and fitted with 3d printed trim panels on the front and back. The port is also 3d printed. Boxes stuffed with 65g of polyfill. Parts cost as of this writing was $332.87usd (excluding MDF, paint, and 3d filament). The paint I've been using lately is Sherwin Williams emerald urethane satin, sprayed with HVLP.

As for the trim pieces affecting the waveguide and/or possible diffraction from the trim pieces; yes its possible, but I couldn't measure a difference. I added a chamfer to the inside of the trim piece around the tweeter to try and match the contour of the waveguide as closely as I could. The trim pieces sit 2mm proud of the baffle.

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For crossover check, I imported both the modeled impedance from the VituixCAD project (red) and the measured DATS sweeps (blue) into REW. Pretty close, I 3d printed the port and it looks like the tuning is slightly different.
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...and here is both the left and right speakers in DATS showing both speakers are the same
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Long time lurker, first time poster. I finished a test unit the other day and finally got to measuring, design mirrors the reference with one primary change to the enclosure shape and port location. It is mounted to the wall using a french cleat with a rear 1" cavity to give room for the cleat and in-wall cable, making it a fantastic Theater side and rear designs.

Used the port and PCB from wineds (thank you!). 1/2" mdf, doubled for the front, face of it has the same dimensions as the reference post then widens out to net ~8L, port on the bottom roughly center.

Sharing as someone might be interested in the general design of it and results.


View attachment 501810 View attachment 501811
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Seating position in non-treated room, the drop at 95, 285, and 365hz seem room related as they change with different speaker locations.
View attachment 501816
Off to build the next 3 and make this one look pretty.
Can you share the dimensions of the box? I’m thinking about building something similar for some rear mounted surrounds in my room as well.
 
I am about to build a pair of these and have all the parts except for the ports. I live in Canada and the Monacor MBR-35 seem to be based in the UK and are killing me with shipping prices. Any North American (or ideally Canadian) suggestions? I am happy to modify and cut anything, I am just a bit lost with what port to order and what to modify it into.

Sorry for the dumb question, but thanks for any help!
 
I am about to build a pair of these and have all the parts except for the ports. I live in Canada and the Monacor MBR-35 seem to be based in the UK and are killing me with shipping prices. Any North American (or ideally Canadian) suggestions? I am happy to modify and cut anything, I am just a bit lost with what port to order and what to modify it into.

Sorry for the dumb question, but thanks for any help!

If you have access to a 3d printer the port can be printed. There have been a few port CAD files posted in this thread. One of which is here :

 
The Dayton/Parts Express 1 3/8" adjustable port (LINK) looks identical to me. Monacor MBR-35 ID = 35 mm = 1.378". Parts-Express port ID = 1 3/8" = 1.375".
 
I just received my UMIK-1 and made my first attempt at measuring. As a total beginner with all of this, it's hard to tell if I'm on the right track or if there are any issues.

I would be very grateful if someone with more experience could take a look at my graphs and give me some feedback.These are gated measurements taken with the UMIK-1, and the speakers are, of course, the Mechano23
 

Attachments

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I just received my UMIK-1 and made my first attempt at measuring. As a total beginner with all of this, it's hard to tell if I'm on the right track or if there are any issues.

I would be very grateful if someone with more experience could take a look at my graphs and give me some feedback.These are gated measurements taken with the UMIK-1, and the speakers are, of course, the Mechano23
It looks quite ok, except that the response in the 2-5k semms to be a bit lower comparing to my simulations and Klippel characteristics.
It's only about 1 dB, but it might be worth checking. Do both speakers have similar behavior in this area?
I put the curves together for comparison, green is Klippel, blue is my simuation:
cmpakvc.png


As @celstark noticed (post #530, link) if the 18/27u caps branch gets disconnected the effect could be similar (but probably much stronger).
 
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Anyone have recommendations for flush banana plug posts? I bought some dayton posts, but I kind of hate how they protrude out. I think I hate the round inset ones even more. I tried looking around. The GR research ones seem to cost an arm and a leg for no reason. The finish of the plastic gives it a cheap dollar store look too. But those are the closest match to what I want so far. I don't need to have bare wire or spade compatibility at all.
 
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