For anyone interested, I put my model for 3D printing the boxes, some perf boards, and the ports on Makerworld. This has the benefit of being now the 2nd print with a bunch of revisions to make them print a lot better.
Both speakers exhibit the crackling and popping? Can you duplicate or is it completely random?Hey all, I think I have something up with my build. Tweeter seems off. I can hear what sounds like crackling and poping at times coming from the tweeter. At other times it is not present. I have never done a proper spin scan but would be willing to learn/try
Update: The tweeter stopped outputting sound. I took it apart, wired it back up, and took the same measurement. Crackling seems to be spontaneous. I have only built one speaker so far. I can hear the crackling during the rew sweeps.Both speakers exhibit the crackling and popping? Can you duplicate or is it completely random?
What would be the equivalent DSP settings to replace the crossover, if the speaker was built as active?I've been trying to make design of a small, simple-to-build and inexpensive speaker that would not need a sub at least for music listening at moderate spl levels. No need for high power. This is third approach, code name "Mechano23". I'm sharing the results and VituixCad project file (LINK) with off-axis measurements in both planes so anyone could play and experiment.
Drivers used in the design:
Not sure how to interpret "spontaneous" but it would seem you've got a faulty tweeter. You only have the one?Update: The tweeter stopped outputting sound. I took it apart, wired it back up, and took the same measurement. Crackling seems to be spontaneous. I have only built one speaker so far. I can hear the crackling during the rew sweeps.
Edit: Probably the last high gloss speaker build I do. Total PITA.
I'd also try taking a 1m measurement to get closer to anechoic. But, that rise isn't right. You can see the woofer starting to roll off at the crossover. There's supposed to be a bit of a bit of a peak at 13k or so -- you've got that. But, I'm guessing something is up with one of the caps or the inductor in the tweeter circuit. I can't fire up VirtuixCAD at the moment to try to replicate, but check to see that you didn't do something like swap the two caps (the 3.3 and the 2 uF) or that you didn't swap the order of the 15 ohm and the 3.3 cap.Not sure how to interpret "spontaneous" but it would seem you've got a faulty tweeter. You only have the one?
Would certainly agree about high gloss finishes. Easily the most demanding when it comes to painted finishes.
Well done! I'm very recently into the 3D printing world and might just take this on as a learning project. Thanks for your efforts!While building my second pair (my son got the first pair), I decided to document it so that others new to building might give it a try. It uses 3D printed boxes, so no woodworking needed. I've got the first 3 parts of the series up, on: 1) Why the Mechano23? 2) 3D printing? Really?, and 3) Crossover part purchasing. Zero idea if anyone is interested, but it's a fun distraction![]()
I will run some tests tonight, but my pcb setup looks like this.It doesn't seem to be a swapping of parts. I can get similar responses though by opening a number of components in the woofer circuit. It may not be that the tweeter is off here. If you have a look at the images on p1 of the CAD, you can see the tweeter does have an upward slope, so it may be that it's the woofer circuit too low. If you've got a bad solder joint in there somewhere, you might a) hit the crackling and b) effectively disconnect a cap or inductor.
I'd look to the 6.8 uF, 27 and 18 uF guys first. Here's what happens if one end of the 27 uF isn't connected.
Oh, and try disconnecting the woofer and tweeter in separate runs. Do either of them look wonky? See how the orange trace here for the woofer is clearly ... off?
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Check the coil soldering in the tweeter filter. Did you sand the paint before soldering?my pcb setup looks like this
I did not sand it off on any of them. Inexperienced.Check the coil soldering in the tweeter filter. Did you sand the paint before soldering?
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I did not sand it off on any of them. Inexperienced.
One step ahead, I took it apart and put the speakers back together. I ran a sweep much better, but the tweeter crapped out on me. Put in the second tweeter, and voila! It's alive!Ok in that case get a desolder pump and some desolder wick. Slowly and carefully remove the inductors, sand/scrape the last 3mm or so of the leads to remove the enamel and reinstall them. You can use solder wick to carefully clean up the PCB holes if necessary but go easy or tracks may lift.
Thank you kindly, it seems to have done the trick. It also turns out the initial tweeter was faulty. It crapped out on me.Check the coil soldering in the tweeter filter. Did you sand the paint before soldering?
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