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Small 2-way speakers with linear on-axis and power response characteristics (Scan Speak and SB Acoustics drivers). H&V off-axis measurements included

Consider audiohobby or soundimports in Europe. The typically lower prices and no sales tax tend to cancel the higher shipping fees. Shipping times are usually very reasonable, less than one week in many cases for me.
Thanks for everyone's responses. I ordered all parts from Soundimports. Cost was lower even with shipping than Madisound or Solen and I got all parts from one place. Now to reread 40 pages of posts and get started on cabinets and birdseye maple veneer.
 
I am going to model a resin pour mold this week for a baffle. I am thinking of integrating the wave guide for the scan speak tweet. I don't have one in hand yet. Does anyone know if it's easily removable from the driver?
 
I am going to model a resin pour mold this week for a baffle. I am thinking of integrating the wave guide for the scan speak tweet. I don't have one in hand yet. Does anyone know if it's easily removable from the driver?
There are 3 clips that seem to hold the plastic wave guide. How to open them and remove the guide safely? I'm not sure.
If you do manage to remove it, please post how you did it (I had an idea about paining the guide).

2b57d88c-ffdd-4325-900b-2df4d9e08a20.jpg
 
I am going to model a resin pour mold this week for a baffle. I am thinking of integrating the wave guide for the scan speak tweet. I don't have one in hand yet. Does anyone know if it's easily removable from the driver?

I'm also curious about this, it looks like it has 2 metal clamps holding the wg in place but hard to tell.

Edit: Thanks @rokr, we posted the same time hehe
 
There are 3 clips that seem to hold the plastic wave guide. How to open them and remove the guide safely? I'm not sure.
If you do manage to remove it, please post how you did it (I had an idea about paining the guide).

View attachment 421302
I'm also curious about this, it looks like it has 2 metal clamps holding the wg in place but hard to tell.

Edit: Thanks @rokr, we posted the same time hehe
It looks like normal clips that you simply pull outwards.
 
There are 3 clips that seem to hold the plastic wave guide. How to open them and remove the guide safely? I'm not sure.
If you do manage to remove it, please post how you did it (I had an idea about paining the guide).
Thanks for that!

With the right 2-part mold setup that looks pretty feasible.
 
@rokr a flathead screw driver and a bit of bending outwards from the center and then just pull the horn upwards.

Edit: When i tried to remove the other one the triangular part followed the horn so it's maybe a good idea to be a bit carefull :)

IMG_1394.JPG
 
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Thanks for doing that. It would be a bit more complicated to cast but I really like the idea of the wave guide and baffle being one piece. I've got some thinking/drawing to do.
 
Thanks for doing that. It would be a bit more complicated to cast but I really like the idea of the wave guide and baffle being one piece. I've got some thinking/drawing to do.

I think the bottom of the wave guide is a bit overcomplicated but everything is nice and tight and it works perfectly with the clips as intended, I guess the normal face-plate version of this tweeter is the same since it has screw holes for it.

Making the bottom completely flat and mount it like Troels do here will probably work just as good and maybe helps if you are casting?


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There is a BOM for the xover components in post 1 of the review thread. It has links to order. It's based on ordering from stolen ca. This is the BOM I based my PCB on.
Thanks again! I got all the parts ordered including the PCB’s you designed. Nice work BTW, I’ve never done anything like that before and was able to order it with the file you created:cool:!

Although I got stuck w/$17 shipping. $3 for the PCB’s though - lol.

Thanks again!
 
In rectangular plywood formats I drilled four holes between which I could guide the jigsaw blade. Of course, this is very imprecise in execution, so I also built an auxiliary tool. A precise frame in which I could place the pre-cut panel, and thanks to the router with a cutter with a guide roller, I improved the accuracy of the cut.

Of course, I had to have two sizes of frames, because I made walls with two internal dimensions.
 

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In rectangular plywood formats I drilled four holes between which I could guide the jigsaw blade. Of course, this is very imprecise in execution, so I also built an auxiliary tool. A precise frame in which I could place the pre-cut panel, and thanks to the router with a cutter with a guide roller, I improved the accuracy of the cut.

Of course, I had to have two sizes of frames, because I made walls with two internal dimensions.
Thanks for sharing! That is dedication and a lot of work!
 
In rectangular plywood formats I drilled four holes between which I could guide the jigsaw blade. Of course, this is very imprecise in execution, so I also built an auxiliary tool. A precise frame in which I could place the pre-cut panel, and thanks to the router with a cutter with a guide roller, I improved the accuracy of the cut.

Of course, I had to have two sizes of frames, because I made walls with two internal dimensions.
Nice approach, and thanks for the detailed reply! Did you use 30mm plywood for the build?
 
Yes. They were scrap from a friend's carpentry shop. So large that they fit the dimensions of the housing. Interestingly, they were production scrap from building large speaker sets, glued in a similar way to how I made these little ones. The inspiration is not new, by the way. I've already encountered this approach many years ago.
 
Yes. They were scrap from a friend's carpentry shop. So large that they fit the dimensions of the housing. Interestingly, they were production scrap from building large speaker sets, glued in a similar way to how I made these little ones. The inspiration is not new, by the way. I've already encountered this approach many years ago.
This is called layered construction.
Just search for "layered construction loudspeaker" or "schichtbauweise Lautsprecher".
This can be used to build almost all types of housing shapes, with curves and tapers.

This is also used by Gauder Akustik, among others, and you can also find many examples on the Acoustic Design Wohlgemuth website and many construction descriptions from the DIY area.
 
Yes. They were scrap from a friend's carpentry shop. So large that they fit the dimensions of the housing. Interestingly, they were production scrap from building large speaker sets, glued in a similar way to how I made these little ones. The inspiration is not new, by the way. I've already encountered this approach many years ago.
Out of curiosity: How did you get everything glued up neatly in line? Did you build a jig for that, too?
 
I glued two frames together. Then the double ones into the next pairs. Four layers connected gave two blocks. This allowed me to connect them relatively straight and evenly. Of course, it wasn't perfect and came out a bit warped. Then the so-called tank came into action :) That is, a plane with abrasive tape with coarse teeth. You have to be careful when operating and control the angles of the device's operation. But it gave a good effect. Finally, the housings got three support legs, which completely eliminated the minimal gaps in adhesion to the surface.
 

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I think the bottom of the wave guide is a bit overcomplicated but everything is nice and tight and it works perfectly with the clips as intended, I guess the normal face-plate version of this tweeter is the same since it has screw holes for it.

Making the bottom completely flat and mount it like Troels do here will probably work just as good and maybe helps if you are casting?

I like that idea. What is the part number for the normal face-plate version? I can't seem to find it.

You can pour a flat baffle with a horn shape easy with an open 1-peice mold. An open mold also means don't have to vent it and you can shake the bubbles out of it easily.
 
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