The numbering in the component list is based on the VituixCad schematic. The XMachina schematic is provided only as an illustration for the initial phase of the crossover design process. At the circuits assembly stage refer to the VC schematic and numbering.
FWIW, I've seen commercial ports made w/ PVC, ABS and polypropylene. I certainly wouldn't hesitate to use an ABS port.
It was installed between the side panels right in the middle. But I've found in some research that this type of bracing is not very effective so in my second pair it wasn't installed at all.
Yes but since the flange is 2..3mm thick it has not a big impact on BR tuning (and btw note a minor difference that there is 145mm in the description).
That's totally fine. It will make assembling the crossover much easier.
Building loudspeaker cabinets with solid wood panels, or even glued wood, is the ultimate challenge even for very experienced carpenters.
www.anikasdiylife.com
Miter joints rather than butt joints, as XMechanik did with his second build, would be a start.
Thank you @Inertiaman. I wasn't aware of the second build. I'll take a look.
Post #219 here Only a couple photos. The benefit is you eliminate the visible laminations at the 4 primary corners. It may also avoid the need for clamps by using the "folding" method with painters tape on joint edges when assembling the box.
There are very few complete kits for DIY Speakers available. Meniscus was the main source in the US but they closed down over a year ago. Most DIY designs are just the work of people willing to share their work with no interest in selling (selling kits is not profitable without having some scale). The few places with some kits in the US are Parts Express, Madisound, CSS and probably a few others that don't come to mind.
One objective and evident advantage of Mechano323 over Mechano23 is the THD level for mid frequencies. But when listening at low and medium levels this difference may be unnoticeable.
