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Talking about cool Golf II, a friend of mine has one with a VR6 engine upgraded with a compressor, here is dyno measurement video from past summers VW GTi fan meeting at Wolfsburg to celebrate 50 years of VW Golf starting at minute 29:07:

 
Models before the August 1987 (model year 1988) had those triangular little windows.
Do they actually open?
My 1971 & earlier VW Beetles (64, 67 & 2 71's & a 71 Super Beetle with AC (ordered in the USA, picked up & drove in Germany, drove around Europe & then imported to the USA as a used car [my earlier Kafer's ended up with 85 HP, although the three 71's had 105 HP, with the last one getting much better gearing through my transaxle build {not something that I want to do again}]).
Another car of mine that had these "vent" windows: 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle SS 396.
There were other pre-69 cars that likely had them but I just didn't use the vent windows on them, so never paid attention to them.
Even the 68 Chevelle had AC & all my other larger cars (from 1966 & up [except my 1979 Trans AM 400, 4 speed, 3 wheel disc brake, T-Top SE Trans Am {no vent windows, no AC & huge floor vents}]) had AC so I never paid attention to whether they had vent windows or not.
 
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We like american classic cars. Here one of them, Chevy Caprice, V8 5.7 L
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350 cid, 1979.
 

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We like american classic cars. Here one of them, Chevy Caprice, V8 5.7 L View attachment 412587 350 cid, 1979.
For $800 I bought a two tone blue 82 Caprice with with 48,000 miles on it. Each corner had minor damage from the man's wife putting it in & out of their garage (He bought her a smaller car). It had a 267 (4.4 L), I put an ancient small Edelbrock DUAL plane intake on it with a Holley 390 NASCAR restrictor plate carburetor (without the restrictor plate) on it, a true 2.25" duel exhaust (twin catalytic convertors), a small Crower RV cam, a 3.73 final gear & a 700 4R that I built to the then Corvette specs, with an 1800 RPM lock up clutch torque convertor., a Harrison radiator with an electric fan, MOOG springs, KYB shocks,15x8 rims, 255/60R15 BFG tires on it & a CLASS III hitch setup.
Many thought that I had a Police Interceptor with the emblems removed. It was not THAT quick, but it handled very well, towed very well (something that I was doing 80% of the time [& got 17-19 MPG doing it]).
I put over 200K miles on it before I sold it. I've had many cars, but that was certainly a favorite.
A 383 built for torque would have been great. At one point I had a 400 for it but never got around to putting it in. (The 400 went into a friends 85 4x4 short bed truck).
 
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My Ohio friend has a 1950 Buick sedan with a '51 straight 8 in it. Anybody wanna take it off his hands? I'm sure it used to run.
 
For $800 I bought a two tone blue 82 Caprice with with 48,000 miles on it. Each corner had minor damage from the mans wife putting it in & out of their garage (He bought her a smaller car). It had a 267 (4.4 L), I put an ancient small Edelbrock DUAL plane intake on it with a Holley 390 NASCAR restrictor plate carburetor (without the restrictor plate) on it, a true 2.25" duel exhaust (twin catalytic convertors), a small Crower RV cam, a 3.73 final gear & a 700 4R that I built to the then Corvette specs, with an 1800 RPM lock up clutch torque convertor., a Harrison radiator with an electric fan, MOOG springs, KYB shocks,15x8 rims, 255/60R15 BFG tires on it & a CLASS III hitch setup.
Many thought that I had a Police Interceptor with the emblems removed. It was not THAT quick, but it handled very well, towed very well (something that I was doing 80% of the time [& got 17-19 MPG doing it]).
I put over 200K miles on it before I sold it. I've had many cars, but that was certainly a favorite.
A 383 built for torque would have been great. At one point I had a 400 for it but never got around to putting it in. (The 400 went into a friends 85 4x4 short bed truck).
Great stuff indeed. Mine has the strong KYB shocks too now. But carburator and all other motor components are original factory. Our other Caprice has Edelbrock carburator and two side pipes which is very loud. With this it has more power and good thrust.
 
Great stuff indeed. Mine has the strong KYB shocks too now. But carburator and all other motor components are original factory. Our other Caprice has Edelbrock carburator and two side pipes which is very loud. With this it has more power and good thrust.
A car that I bought had side pipes (down the whole both sides of the car) on it when I bought it (a non-AC car). I removed them as soon as possible, replacing them with Tri-Y headers, a true dual 2.5" system with an X-pipe crossover that exited the rear of the car. The 4 spd manual car that went from 12 MPG no matter the driving to 16 MPG in town & 19 MPG HWY immediately. And no fumes at the windows entering the car when sitting in traffic! Also no more passengers with side pipe burns on their legs while wearing shorts! 3 different people (2 passengers and myself) had been nailed by the side pipes before I got rid of them. The side pipes size where such that I could stick my arm into them & they had no shielding on the outside of them. All show & no go, I guess was their purpose.
The 350 in the Caprice was a much better original combination than mine was. And I would not have needed to put as much effort in it. But the price was right when I got mine. The 267 was a smoother running engine in stock form due to it being the only Gen 1 small block made (that I know of) with long rods (5.95") from the factory (which was the point for the typically more elderly Caprice drivers at the time). SMOOTH! (Power be damned). Also fuel economy & emissions without the factory spending much money at the time of manufacture.
It cost more to make a 305 or 350 compliant. Unfortunately they declined to do so for the 350 in 1982 and it was not an option.
 
My Ohio friend has a 1950 Buick sedan with a '51 straight 8 in it. Anybody wanna take it off his hands? I'm sure it used to run.
A straight 8 build and a built Dynaflow transmission make for a not so fast but extraordinarily accurately repeatable time (the key to winning at Bracket Racing) Bracket Racing setup for Drag Racing.
From TEAMBUICK:
High Performance Buick Straight Eight

The following article is reprinted from an old car magazine. The pages sent to me did not identify the magazine, but I expect it was printed in the early '60s. After reading it, I want to take apart my straight 8 and "improve" it!


The most powerful straight eight produce by Buick,the 1952 320 inch Buick eight with 4 barl carb!



Your right! It would make a good boat anchor. But there's still life in this long tall chunk of iron. For a smooth street rod, how about one of these engines warmed up on the inside, chromed and clean on the outside, in conjunction with a Dynaflow trans? But that's only an idea. Let's find out a little about the engine. There were three engine sizes all similar construction. The smallest, 3 3/32 bore x 4 1/8 stroke, displaces 248 cubic inches. Nest is the 263 inch version, 3 3/16 x 4 1/8 , while the largest is 320 inches and measures 3 7/16 x 4 5/16. The largest and the smallest first saw life in 1937, the middle-sized in 1950. All will take up to .125 inch overbore, which would give the largest engine a total of 344 inches. Increasing the stroke is not recommended, stay stock here.

Original compression ratios were quite low, from 6.3 to around 7.0, so it can be seen that an increase is in order. It is possible to mill the head .175 inches, upping ratio considerably. On an early 6.3 to 1 ratio, a .125 mill will increase ratio to 7.3. For any ratio over 8.5, a solid skirt racing piston should be used. Stock pistons have insufficient strength under the crown and collapsed crowns may result. Stock wrist pins are satisfactory, should be an easy push fit through the pin bore at room temperature.

Combination chamber surfaces should be ground and polished to eliminate hot spots. There are two head gaskets available, one of .050, the other .015 inch thick. While either may be used with a milled head, the maximum for city driving would seem to be the thin casket in conjunction with .100 milling.

There are reground cams available. Two of the suppliers include Iskenderian and Howard with assorted stages of timing. Howard has a half-dozen cams ranging in lift from .420 to .465 inch and in timing from a mild 3/4 street cam to full race models designed for fuel or gasoline and of little value on the street. Isky's are comparable. His 3/4 model increases horsepower 10 to 15 percent, aids acceleration above 2500 rpm, works with either stick shift or automatic. Prices run from $65.00 to $89.00.

If a reground cam is used, increase valve spring tension by adding a 5/8 inch SAE flat washer on each valve guide next to the cylinder head between the head and the inner spring seat. This will supply about 15 pounds increase when the valve is seated. Worn valve stem tips should be ground square with the valve stem, while rocker arm bushings and shafts should be checked for wear, replaced if worn. The surface of the rocker arm that contacts the valve stem may be reground to the proper radius if it is worn.

Engines pre 1949 had poured Babbitt-type rod bearing with adjusting shims. Post '49 engines use steel backed inserts. Because the late rods and bearings are interchangeable with the earlier models, this change is recommended.

Buick straight eight cranks have five main bearing journals. Generous in size, the become larger from front to rear, except in the 263 engine where they are a constant diameter, 2.562 inches. To prevent misalignment of the crank, matched sets of main bearing inserts must be installed when fitting the crank to the block If the crank must be ground to an undersize main journal or crank pin diameter, the shaft should be re balanced. The balancing unit on the front of the crank is for torsional oscillation damping, and will not counteract any unbalanced weights. Main bolts should be torqued to 90 to 100 lb/ft. Crank end play should be from .004 to .008 inches and may be increased by scraping the thrust surface of the center main.

Connecting rod bolt, a special diameter of correct alignment between con rod and rod cap, require 40 to 45 lb/ft on the small engine, 60 to 65 lb/ft on the large engine.

The flywheel may be lightened by removing metal from the front and back surfaces without cutting into the clutch surface. Buick's diaphragm type clutch pressure plates are not satisfactory and should be replaced with a Borg and Beck 4050 replacement pressure plate. A new clutch plate will take severe usage. Flywheel and pressure plate assembly should be dynamically balanced.

Buick heads have four Siamesed intake ports and eight exhaust ports that require porting. The intake ports are thin, however, and require care to keep from cutting into the water jacket. I the large engine, the small intake port size is a limiting factor in performance. One should install new valve guides, but measure the height of the old guides, press the new ones in to the same depth. After they are installed, ream the guides .374 to .375 diameter. Cut of intake guides flush with the top of the port and ream off burrs around the guide hole.

Buick straight 8 multi carb
Because no valve seat inserts are used, and the head casting is relatively soft material , valve seats must be made wide to prevent the valve seat from pulling through the head. Exhaust valve seats must be at least 1/8 inch wide and so located that the exhaust valve contacts the valve seat in the center of the seat area on the valve. Intake valves and seats may be refaced to 30 degrees from 45. The intake valve seat must be about 3/32 inch wide. and should contact the valve near the outside of the valve seat area, leaving about 1/64 to 1/32 inch between the upper valve seat face and the seat. The size and shape of the factory valves are satisfactory for replacement.

As nearly as we can determine, there are no intake manifolds for use with three or more carburetors, but it should not be difficult to fabricate a manifold for any number of carbs. Four Stromberg 97's or 48's for gas, or four Buick Stromberg's make a good conversion for alcohol.


The engine pictured must have been in a drag car because of the lack of radiator.
 
A car that I bought had side pipes (down the whole both sides of the car) on it when I bought it (a non-AC car). I removed them as soon as possible, replacing them with Tri-Y headers, a true dual 2.5" system with an X-pipe crossover that exited the rear of the car. The 4 spd manual car that went from 12 MPG no matter the driving to 16 MPG in town & 19 MPG HWY immediately. And no fumes at the windows entering the car when sitting in traffic! Also no more passengers with side pipe burns on their legs while wearing shorts! 3 different people (2 passengers and myself) had been nailed by the side pipes before I got rid of them. The side pipes size where such that I could stick my arm into them & they had no shielding on the outside of them. All show & no go, I guess was their purpose.
The 350 in the Caprice was a much better original combination than mine was. And I would not have needed to put as much effort in it. But the price was right when I got mine. The 267 was a smoother running engine in stock form due to it being the only Gen 1 small block made (that I know of) with long rods (5.95") from the factory (which was the point for the typically more elderly Caprice drivers at the time). SMOOTH! (Power be damned). Also fuel economy & emissions without the factory spending much money at the time of manufacture.
It cost more to make a 305 or 350 compliant. Unfortunately they declined to do so for the 350 in 1982 and it was not an option.
Maybe I was wrong with the word sidepipes. The pipes are under the chassis and just only each end exits before the rear wheels.
 

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Maybe I was wrong with the word sidepipes. The pipes are under the chassis and just only each end exits before the rear wheels.
You could increase torque & fuel economy by putting an H pipe or (X-Pipe changes the sound a bit, so that it sounds more like a flat plane crankshaft engine [think: Ferrari])
Also, both (perceptively in the interior) will quite it somewhat, as would (only in the interior) running the exhaust over the axle (using mandrill bent tubing (not one that has ridges in the bends).
Turned slightly downward (45-75 degrees)& toward the side (30 or so degrees) will minimize the perceived loudness in narrow street tall building areas, reducing the unwanted law enforcement effect (without hurting performance).
Also 2.5" pipe is good for 200-250 PS a side.
No need to go big on the pipes unless you are making BIG power.
 
Maybe I was wrong with the word sidepipes. The pipes are under the chassis and just only each end exits before the rear wheels.
Looks cool, and also does neat stuff to tire smoke when doing a burnout.

There are some potential downs to it though:

Exhaust dumping out in front of the rear tires:

Loud cabin noise (may be a preference)

heat from the exhaust while sitting still

Exhaust smell with the windows down

(long term: carbon monoxide poisoning??)

Hence:

In some states (and countries), that's illegal.

Along those lines: station wagon & SUV drivers driving with the cargo window open or worse, flipped up:
Are pulling massive amounts of the ODERLESS carbon monoxide into the cabin area of the vehicle.
Anyone in the rear seats is getting more than those in the front (adults should know better but kids in the back do not!)
 
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Winter rally in Finland 1955. You can set translated texting from settings of the video


Winter tires didn't have spikes then https://company.nokiantyres.com/about-us/history/winter-tire-85-years/winter-tire-invention/
Many ideas (I do not know about this one) that are used today (including many tire ideas [such as paddle tires for sand, rear view mirrors, seatbelts & many others), were developed by racers before anyone ever produced them in a production manner for vehicles.
I may be wrong about this one:
but I see no reason why some innovative racers could not have studded their own tires way prior to the idea being taken up by some people that produced them in a factory already done that way. In fact, it's more likely that the idea came from non-factory innovators & that the factory people perfected the production process of one by one to a mass production process with increased longevity (since racers would typically only need for it to last the length of a race (& then make another set for the next race).
Having been involved with high performance and racing of computerized electronics & before just electrical & electronical mechanical machines most of my life, there are many things (innovations, if you will) that have been and are being done which may never see production or see production at some time in the future.
Just because someone came up with a way to MASS produce it: does not mean that it was not being done before that time.
 
Looks cool, and also does neat stuff to tire smoke when doing a burnout.

There are some potential downs to it though:

Exhaust dumping out in front of the rear tires:

Loud cabin noise (may be a preference)

heat from the exhaust while sitting still

Exhaust smell with the windows down

(long term: carbon monoxide poisoning??)

Hence:

In some states (and countries), that's illegal.

Along those lines: station wagon & SUV drivers driving with the cargo window open or worse, flipped up:
Are pulling massive amounts of the ODERLESS carbon monoxide into the cabin area of the vehicle.
Anyone in the rear seats is getting more than those in the front (adults should know better but kids in the back do not!)
All arguments are valid. We know this. This Caprice with exhaust side outlets is not allowed to be used as a regular car for everyday. It is a limited license for driving to a repair workshop or for classic cars meetings and exhibitions. The red Caprice has a H for historic license plate which gives a lower car owner tax and insurance. Also not for general usage and the now high fuel price restricts milage since money blows out of the wallet.
 
All arguments are valid. We know this. This Caprice with exhaust side outlets is not allowed to be used as a regular car for everyday. It is a limited license for driving to a repair workshop or for classic cars meetings and exhibitions. The red Caprice has a H for historic license plate which gives a lower car owner tax and insurance. Also not for general usage and the now high fuel price restricts milage since money blows out of the wallet.
In the US, only a few states have laws against the 'in front of the rear wheel exit' exhausts, mostly that same idiotic states that say you must have fenders, a hood, (even of your car is a 1927 Ford T-Bucket (a friend owns an original 1923 that he has had since he was a teenager (he's now in his late 70's & more fit than me & I work out a bit) that he converted to a 1927 (with all original parts except for a high performance drivetrain & chassis strengthening) in the 1960's). He owns an alignment shop that he started in the 1960's & he is the only employee (and many seek him out).
You see what side of the argument that I am on. I can't imagine anyone sitting in a car long enough, with it running, for the side exit exhaust to be an issue to themselves (and for others to stand next to them long enough for it to be a problem).
As to the fuel economy: everything that I have done (gearing, engine power making) has incrementally increased the fuel economy from an original 14-16 MPG to 17-19 MPG.
Unfortunately the prices of fuel have increased faster than that, so, yeah, we've been screwed by that.
The interesting thing is that the car has better emissions than it originally did.
Better Performance, Better Economy, LESS Emissions and screwed by the price of fuel!
 
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