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Do you service the hub yourself or leave that to someone else? I've seen suggestions about switching them to oil lubrication with marine grease in specific places to keep the water out and improve longevity.

To date, I haven't touched it. I have done a few longer rides on it, but I mainly use it for local, urban rides, maybe 15 or 20km a week, so it hasn't done a great distance.

I probably should service it at some point. :)
 
Do you service the hub yourself or leave that to someone else? I've seen suggestions about switching them to oil lubrication with marine grease in specific places to keep the water out and improve longevity.
I wouldn’t do that, I used to service the nexus/alfine hubs in the workshop and usually an oil bath is enough if all is functioning correctly, to strip the hubs for a full service then special shimano tools are used and I’d advise against doing it yourself, the correct oil for shimano alfine hubs is around £90 litre.
 
"Humans aren’t very efficient movers—until you put us on a bicycle, when we become some of the most energy-efficient land travelers in the animal kingdom." Below is a graphic that compares locomotion in the animal kingdom.

"Flying animals, can move forward cheaply by gliding through the air, carried more by currents than by their own power. Swimming animals can similarly glide through water while letting their natural buoyancy minimize the need to fight gravity.

Bikes allow us terrestrial folk to be more like fish. Wheels, a simple machine, let us coast without putting in power by pedaling, and the rigid frame supports the sitting rider against gravity. 'They turn humans into this hyperefficient terrestrial locomotor because they make being on land more like swimming.'" (Scientific American)

Once again driving home the point that 'more aero' means more efficient. Emulate salmon for speed.... :cool:

View attachment 484889

The good news, is that the 'most aero' body shape might not be what is expected: :cool:

The problem with the beer belly is that the gain in aerodynamics is offset by a loss in climbing efficiency. Ask me how I know. On the flats, and especially downhill, my mates sat on my wheel. When the uphill appeared, they said "thanks for the pull, Rick" and left me in the dust.

Rick "completed an Ironman triathlon at just over 200 pounds" Denney
 
I've always thought that this is what road bikes should evolve toward. Rohloff hub with Gates belt drive (not mine). It's great how everything is protected from the elements, with almost no maintenance!

The internal gearing is about 4% less efficient than a clean derailleur system. I test-rode a steel framed version around Y2K. If you took your feet off the pedals, the cranks would spin slowly from a bit of drag from the hub. Not really an issue if you need a weather-proof system, however.

View attachment 484901
I don't see how a person could ride that thing?
- It's got no pedals!
 
Following your same concerns, I got my son a Marin Presidio 3. Belt drive, 8 internal gears, puncture resistant and reflective tires.

The green bike in the picture below has Gates belt drive, Alfine 7-speed hub, hydraulic disks, spiffy color coordinated fenders (mudguards). Scott Sub 10. Super low maintenance.

 
I wouldn’t do that, I used to service the nexus/alfine hubs in the workshop and usually an oil bath is enough if all is functioning correctly, to strip the hubs for a full service then special shimano tools are used and I’d advise against doing it yourself, the correct oil for shimano alfine hubs is around £90 litre.

I've seen suggestions that you can use gear oil, or automatic transmission fluid, instead of the genuine Shimano oil. I'm not sure what's so special about the Shimano oil but £90 a litre is really expensive compared to even the pricier car and motorcycle oils.
 
I don't see how a person could ride that thing?
Have there been any major improvements in 'rim-brakes' (calipers, et al) to warrant their continued 2-wheeling use?

I have become a big fan of disc-brakes, over the last decade: First, with a cable operated front disc-brake and now w/hydraulic front/rear versions.

imo: The only down-side of disc-brakes is that they do not foretell you when your rim has been whacked out of true.
Some may argue that rim-brakes are lighter :confused: but a bit of extra weight has never been the archenemy of a bicycle for the purposes of exercise and/or mobility.
 
I've seen suggestions that you can use gear oil, or automatic transmission fluid, instead of the genuine Shimano oil. I'm not sure what's so special about the Shimano oil but £90 a litre is really expensive compared to even the pricier car and motorcycle oils.
A friend recently rebuilt a Nexus hub and mentioned a specification of oil he said was the same as Shimano supply. If I remember I'll ask him about it, as well as the Shimano tools necessary.
 
A friend recently rebuilt a Nexus hub and mentioned a specification of oil he said was the same as Shimano supply. If I remember I'll ask him about it, as well as the Shimano tools necessary.

As far as I know, you don't need any special tools for lubricating the gears, as you remove the internals as a complete assembly, then submerge it in oil.

1761249092147.png
 
I've seen suggestions that you can use gear oil, or automatic transmission fluid, instead of the genuine Shimano oil. I'm not sure what's so special about the Shimano oil but £90 a litre is really expensive compared to even the pricier car and motorcycle oils.

Yeah, I’ve read of folk using EP80 synthetic gear oil but working in the trade it’d be a bad look to cheap out on the servicing guidelines so I always did stuff by the book so to speak.

Once you loosen the large lockring and remove the the internal gear structure from the hub shell, it comes out in one lump then submerge in an oil bath, when replacing it into the hub it's advisable to replace the large o-ring (if you can find one, SJS cycles are good for parts)

Follow the guidelines for aligning the marked dots on the hub gear mechanism when setting the gears,
 
I have a bottle of this in the garage that I use on my motorcycle chain:

1761261251262.png


Given that I use about 2 teaspoons every 600 miles, I can spare enough to give my hub gears a bath. :)
 
I have a bottle of this in the garage that I use on my motorcycle chain:

View attachment 485070

Given that I use about 2 teaspoons every 600 miles, I can spare enough to give my hub gears a bath. :)
Hmmmz. Making me think here. Is it special sticky stuff etc? I always am interested in chain lube operations as I am a ex serious hardcore mountain enduro dirt rider and then a street rider and chains are always such a major part of all that. I always carried a aerosol can of that super sticky thick blue colored chain lube for my dirt bikes and then the street bike formulation for the street rides too. I would lube everyday and if I was out for a ~1200 km street ride like was common I would lube 2x a day. Nothing annoys me more than my chain making rattling, metal on metal noises and then snapping and going through the engine casing(s). I had a chain do that on my first dirt bike and that bike was trash after. In full disclosure that bike model the Honda 90 with the extra big huge low gearing sprocket at the rear and the small sprocket too at the rear was always prone to that issue so not all my fault but. So when I rode seriously in my 40s my 23" mountain bike was made into a hybrid with Continental Town and Country tires, very wide for more leverage when stomping on it downhill race bars, swapped out the rear cartridge for a close ratio Campagnolo assembly that was really cool to ride with but others with lesser thighs could not go up hills with that, Shimano high abrasion wet use brake pads that eliminated trumpeting and where super with the unique noise they made when alerting pedestrians of my presence and the bike shop told me they would modify my wheels, tubes tires etc so I did not need to maintain air pressure and could basically forget about all that air pressure stuff and whatever they did it worked super good and not once did I add air etc. So anyway... rambling here because I have extra time and I like your comments too. I finalized my chain lube choice on that hybrid bicycle and used Pedro's chain wax because I was riding in an arid desert region of Canada and the sand and grit was everywhere. The chain wax was a HUGE major improvements and the sand and grit just flaked off and left the chain spotless and shiny ready for another application of chain wax. No more dirty pant legs or worry about spots of black lube on the carpet at home etc.
 
My bike has a Shimano Nexus, 8 speed hub, and there are some quirks, compared to a derailleur. The "jumps" between some gears are a little odd and the ratios are not particularly evenly spaced. In addition, some gears are noticeably more draggy than others. I typically ride around on the flat in 5th or 6th, which are fine, but when you use 4th, you can feel the extra drag and the hub sounds more "whir-y".

Hub gears are also heavier than a derailleur, set-up and all the weight is concentrated in the rear wheel. You don't really feel it while riding around, but the back end feels noticeably heavy when you pick the bike up.
You use the rear hub with multiple chainrings up front or a single?
 
Making me think here. Is it special sticky stuff etc?

No, it's just gear oil. A £10, 1 litre bottle will likely be enough for hundreds of applications and tens of thousands of miles. I decided to use that, after seeing this, the fact that the best option was also pretty much the cheapest, added to the appeal: :)


Essentially, modern motorcycle chains use "X" or "O" rings and the grease that lubricates the rollers should be sealed behind them for the life of the chain. The lube that you apply to the outside, is only really to stop the chain rusting.

Bicycle chains are quite different, there are no seals, so when you clean them you ideally want to get rid of all the old contaminated lubricant, then use a lubricant that can penetrate and get into the rollers.

You use the rear hub with multiple chainrings up front or a single?

You typically use hub gears, with a single chain ring, as there's normally no mechanism to shift or tension the chain, that would allow it to use multiple different sized sprockets; although I think some Bromptons have an odd set-up with a three speed hub, with two rear sprockets and a derailleur/tensioner, to give a total of 6 speeds.

1761297955317.png


However, with a belt drive, the front chainring must be directly in-line with the rear sprocket, the belt cannot flex laterally, the way a chain can.
 
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After my last bike got swiped outside a coffee shop, I finally looked into cycling insurance. Was way easier than I expected and gave me peace of mind, especially with my new gravel setup that wasn’t cheap. Also covers damage during transport, which is great since I throw it in the back of my SUV pretty often. Definitely worth checking out if you're rolling with pricier gear.
 
As far as I know, you don't need any special tools for lubricating the gears, as you remove the internals as a complete assembly, then submerge it in oil.
I think he did the full strip, clean and rebuild. I don't know if there was a problem, or he just wanted to try it. They list 3 tools for that, available but not inexpensive.
 
No, it's just gear oil. A £10, 1 litre bottle will likely be enough for hundreds of applications and tens of thousands of miles. I decided to use that, after seeing this, the fact that the best option was also pretty much the cheapest, added to the appeal: :)


Essentially, modern motorcycle chains use "X" or "O" rings and the grease that lubricates the rollers should be sealed behind them for the life of the chain. The lube that you apply to the outside, is only really to stop the chain rusting.

Bicycle chains are quite different, there are no seals, so when you clean them you ideally want to get rid of all the old contaminated lubricant, then use a lubricant that can penetrate and get into the rollers.



You typically use hub gears, with a single chain ring, as there's normally no mechanism to shift or tension the chain, that would allow it to use multiple different sized sprockets; although I think some Bromptons have an odd set-up with a three speed hub, with two rear sprockets and a derailleur/tensioner, to give a total of 6 speeds.

View attachment 485164

However, with a belt drive, the front chainring must be directly in-line with the rear sprocket, the belt cannot flex laterally, the way a chain can.

Reminds me there was a guy marketing a chain lube some years back called Chane-L No. 5 which was basically gear oil. Kinda messy as a chain lube, though. I use Boeshield T-9 on my bike chains as well as my e-moto's o-ring chain. I don't use the aerosol, tho, prefer the liquid version.

I was curious about the comment about the odd/jumpy gear ratios, thus wondered if a front chainring alone or multiple. Ever use a Rohloff hub?
chane-l.jpg
 
Ever use a Rohloff hub?

I haven't tried one, but I understand that they have better spaced gear ratios, than the Shimano hubs. However, they are 7 or 8 times the price, so not really comparable.

I suspect there's and awful lot of marketing hogwash in the chain lube world, whether for bicycle or motorcycle, and that the difference in performance and chain longevity between the more economical and the most expensive solutions probably isn't that great.

For my bicycle chain, I've been using the "hot wax" method, using paraffin wax and PTFE powder:


It's a bit of messing about, but it seems to work well, is pretty cheap and the chain doesn't seem to get as gummed up with grime as with some wet lubes.
 
I haven't tried one, but I understand that they have better spaced gear ratios, than the Shimano hubs. However, they are 7 or 8 times the price, so not really comparable.

I suspect there's and awful lot of marketing hogwash in the chain lube world, whether for bicycle or motorcycle, and that the difference in performance and chain longevity between the more economical and the most expensive solutions probably isn't that great.

For my bicycle chain, I've been using the "hot wax" method, using paraffin wax and PTFE powder:


It's a bit of messing about, but it seems to work well, is pretty cheap and the chain doesn't seem to get as gummed up with grime as with some wet lubes.
I briefly rode a bike with the Shimano hub, but really don't remember the gear ratios standing out but a parking lot ride only tells you so much. Have friends with Rohloffs and they speak highly of them, but never tried a ride.

Taking the chain off and the deep cleaning and relubing I've done (but not with hot wax)....what a pain. Prefer the T-9, a paraffin suspended in solvent, much easier to use and works very well, but might be conditions dependent (I ride in dry/dusty conditions often, not too much in the wet).
 
For the chain nerds. Effetto Mariposa, drip on, leave to dry wipe off. On balance of ease, cleanliness, longevity, its the best chain lube I've used in 40 years, by a country mile.
 
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