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this is Conor Dunne...2,04m. not a very big frame

conordunne-bike.jpg


you can also see it depends on how your lower back bends. his back does a curvature, others backs keep fairly straight; and therefore need a longer reach (tube and or stem)
 
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this is Conor Dunne...2,04m. not a very big frame

conordunne-bike.jpg


you can also see it depends on how your lower back bends. his back does a curvature, others backs keep fairly straight; and therefore need a longer reach (tube and or stem)
Doesn't look comfortable, and yes I know as a competitor he doesn't care. Also looks like he would have lots of toe overlap.

And yes you can do quite a bit of adjustment with stems and seats, but to keep a bike handling nicely there are certain proportions that help, among them distributing the weight between front and rear. The above pictured rider looks like he probably has an excess of weight on the rear to me. Of course your front center point and other factors can compensate for that within reason. And maybe his CG comes down near enough the crank.
 
this is me when I started dialing in my TT position. I was fat (lol) because of pandemic. The saddle went a little higher since, but it's basicly my position. does it look comfortable? I guess not? But it is. only the neck suffers a little.

angle_1617375670805.png
 
Everyone is different as they age. For me it was a little loss in flexibility in the back, but more so in my neck. I had a Bianchi frame I really loved, but in time I could only see up the road if my neck was pushed up just as far as it would go which wasn't comfortable. It was sort of half a size too small for me, and eventually adjustments aren't enough. It looked like this one without the super tall seat post.

1643467218914.png
 
I still lean over as much as I ever did, but I spend more time on the tops of the bars rather than in the drops. Looking back at my post in this thread, I see that the JW Moore bike I “raced” in college was relatively tall—60 cm. (I am 184 cm tall.) But we have to remember that a horizontal top tube was simply the dominant paradigm, baked into the lugs that nearly all frame makers used. And seatposts were still quite short, with a limited extension range.

But we still got low. Look how deep the Cinelli 66 handlebar drops are on the old Moore and also on the track bike.

Later frames were all 58cm or thereabouts—longer seatposts and more expectation of riding on the tops with integrated brifters.

Rick “never really flexible” Denney
 
Looks like a stationary bike to me.
How do you attempt to pedal it - all I see is 2 holes where the pedals should be? Special snap-on shoes?
No the pedals have been removed. Wasn't my bike, but I had that same exact frame in that color. Mine had Shimano gear on it. It had the relatively short head tube. Bike climbed great and cornered great. Really nice frame. And yeah I had Shimano SPD pedals that a shoe clips onto.

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I see that the JW Moore bike I “raced” in college was relatively tall—60 cm. (I am 184 cm tall.) But we have to remember that a horizontal top tube was simply the dominant paradigm, baked into the lugs that nearly all frame makers used. And seatposts were still quite short, with a limited extension range.

But we still got low. Look how deep the Cinelli 66 handlebar drops are on the old Moore and also on the track bike.

this one right?

IMG_6643-dsqz.JPG



now besides the drops beeing deeper back than, you guys also stayed down there, right? not like today where you spend most of the time on the breaking lever
 
this one right?

IMG_6643-dsqz.JPG



now besides the drops beeing deeper back than, you guys also stayed down there, right? not like today where you spend most of the time on the breaking lever
That frame looks like it has lotsa comfy flex. :D I like chrome moly flexy frames. After I bought a all aluminum Kona frame with big diameter tubes I sold it because it sucked. Within 5 minutes I had serious pain from the seat hammering me. Not for me. :D
 
I had a ChromeMoly Nishiki 10-speed [lol to arcane '10-speed'] with an extra long head-tube for my 35" inseam.
After about a year of riding it on the beach route from NewportBeach to LA, it developed dimples below the front-tube, just passed the weld joint to the head-tube. This occurred just around the time I developed a discharge [errrr....] below the beltline. Battery of weird (and painful) tests and a bunch of RX could not determine the source of the infection. I finally figured out that the cause was due to the 'chaffing' of the saddle against.... [errrr....] you know where.
This maybe the reason why beach cruisers are in vogue, in beach communities! We even keep a few beach cruisers for guests and neighbors. They are practically throw-away and require zero maintenance and don't cause weird/costly doctor visits.
 
I had a ChromeMoly Nishiki 10-speed [lol to arcane '10-speed'] with an extra long head-tube for my 35" inseam.
After about a year of riding it on the beach route from NewportBeach to LA, it developed dimples below the front-tube, just passed the weld joint to the head-tube. This occurred just around the time I developed a discharge [errrr....] below the beltline. Battery of weird (and painful) tests and a bunch of RX could not determine the source of the infection. I finally figured out that the cause was due to the 'chaffing' of the saddle against.... [errrr....] you know where.
This maybe the reason why beach cruisers are in vogue, in beach communities! We even keep a few beach cruisers for guests and neighbors. They are practically throw-away and require zero maintenance and don't cause weird/costly doctor visits.

Takes years sometimes to find the right saddle....but those beach cruiser type saddles aren't good for the long haul either (well neither are the bikes for that matter :) ). Sorry you had the taint pain tho.
 
I had a ChromeMoly Nishiki 10-speed [lol to arcane '10-speed'] with an extra long head-tube for my 35" inseam.
After about a year of riding it on the beach route from NewportBeach to LA, it developed dimples below the front-tube, just passed the weld joint to the head-tube. This occurred just around the time I developed a discharge [errrr....] below the beltline. Battery of weird (and painful) tests and a bunch of RX could not determine the source of the infection. I finally figured out that the cause was due to the 'chaffing' of the saddle against.... [errrr....] you know where.
This maybe the reason why beach cruisers are in vogue, in beach communities! We even keep a few beach cruisers for guests and neighbors. They are practically throw-away and require zero maintenance and don't cause weird/costly doctor visits.
As soon as I experience some sort of pain I go buy a big fat bump absorbing gel seat. It looks dumb and people think it's weird but it's great. My fav chrome moly was a tapered tube 23" and I'm only 6 feet or ~184 cm. I've never had a ride as comfy as that one.
 
If you think the old chromeMoly frames were comfy, you should try titanium. Now that is a proper comfortable frame material. You'll forget all about your steel frames. Plus Ti doesn't rust.
 
If you think the old chromeMoly frames were comfy, you should try titanium. Now that is a proper comfortable frame material. You'll forget all about your steel frames. Plus Ti doesn't rust.
That sounds exotic and expensive. I'm not that serious about riding but I have been known to spend a few hours a day on my ride in the summer. :D
 
That sounds exotic and expensive. I'm not that serious about riding but I have been known to spend a few hours a day on my ride in the summer. :D
There are deals around to be had on some good quality bikes of a few years ago. But it is like everything good about steel x3 plus lighter, and in some respects stronger. And some aren't painted and don't need to be really. It has the flexibility of steel, but soaks up vibration almost like carbon fiber.
 
If you think the old chromeMoly frames were comfy, you should try titanium. Now that is a proper comfortable frame material. You'll forget all about your steel frames. Plus Ti doesn't rust.
I'd love a titanium or stainless steel frame. The ride quality and non-rust bits sound nice.
 
I'd love a titanium or stainless steel frame. The ride quality and non-rust bits sound nice.
I worked stainless for some years wiring up oil and water drilling rigs and snow plow trucks with electronic over hydraulic control. It is tricky to work with and can't be managed by just anybody. One thing about chrome moly steel is it can be brazed and modified if needed. Not that we need that but in the past I had a old timer bike mechanic braze on some MOD stuff for me and it worked out very well. I like that. So titanium it is for future rides with all the features possible if possible.
 
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