Sennheiser HD560s Owner's Thread.

[atothek]

It's loud enough, def. Just was asking whether there would be some other advantage/"better sound" with the balanced connection.
Cheers.

 

[Count Arthur]

It's loud enough, def. Just was asking whether there would be some other advantage/"better sound" with the balanced connection.
Cheers.

Unlikely.

Balanced line level connections, have an advantage over single ended, primarily for noise and interference rejection, especially for longer cable lengths. However, with headphones, there isn't really a benefit, except for increased power, in some circumstances *.

If your headphones go plenty loud enough with your specific amplifier with a single ended connection, there isn't any advantage.

* Some headphone amplifiers have a balanced connections, XLR or 4.4mm TRRS, for example, for use with headphones with those connectors, without an adapter. However, the circuit isn't truly balanced, so you don't get any increase in power output capability.

 

[atothek]

thanks!

 

[usern]

Balanced line level connections

Just to clarify what line level connections mean - that's connection between electronic devices like DAC and amplifier, but balanced headphone cables do not offer noise and interference rejection

 

[unknownuser]

Excellent, pleased it's worked out for you!

Now my DAC is supporting more filters and types so I managed to add your original with PK filters, I'm total rookie but I boosted your 20Hz filter quite a bit, gain is 9 and kick drums and explosions are much better and I don't hear distortion or driver noise at my listening levels, I would go higher but afraid to do it.

Now with the DAC update I managed to compare to the my HD6xx using Amir's HD650 profile and the HD6xx is muffled compared to the HD560s, the 560s is quite a bit better. Only bass guitar still sounds more realistic with the HD6xx, maybe I just don't like Amir's profile but currently the HD560s sounds better to me.

 

[Robbo99999]

Now my DAC is supporting more filters and types so I managed to add your original with PK filters, I'm total rookie but I boosted your 20Hz filter quite a bit, gain is 9 and kick drums and explosions are much better and I don't hear distortion or driver noise at my listening levels, I would go higher but afraid to do it.

Now with the DAC update I managed to compare to the my HD6xx using Amir's HD650 profile and the HD6xx is muffled compared to the HD560s, the 560s is quite a bit better. Only bass guitar still sounds more realistic with the HD6xx, maybe I just don't like Amir's profile but currently the HD560s sounds better to me.

That's ok, shouldn't be a problem, if you like it with the extra bass it's fine. Increasing that 20Hz peak filter by 5dB is not quite as extreme as it seems on the surface because it's a peak filter at 20Hz so it's effect decreases the closer you get to 100Hz, so mainly you're just bumping up the really low subbass by adding another 5dB to that 20Hz filter. What you could try for a more balanced approach of tweaking the bass is to take that 20Hz filter back down to the original 4.1dB figure, then add in a Low Shelf Filter at 105Hz, Q0.71, then slowly increase that by by 1dB at a time until you like the sound - this way you're affecting the entire bass range & bumping that whole bass range up in a pretty balanced way, which is different to your current approach of just increasing that 20Hz Peak Filter. It's possible you'll end up with an even better and more balanced sound by tweaking the bass with the Low Shelf Filter I mentioned, and yes don't forget to take the 20Hz Peak Filter back down to 4.1dB if you're gonna try tweaking with the 105Hz Low Shelf Filter.

 

[unknownuser]

That's ok, shouldn't be a problem, if you like it with the extra bass it's fine. Increasing that 20Hz peak filter by 5dB is not quite as extreme as it seems on the surface because it's a peak filter at 20Hz so it's effect decreases the closer you get to 100Hz, so mainly you're just bumping up the really low subbass by adding another 5dB to that 20Hz filter. What you could try for a more balanced approach of tweaking the bass is to take that 20Hz filter back down to the original 4.1dB figure, then add in a Low Shelf Filter at 105Hz, Q0.71, then slowly increase that by by 1dB at a time until you like the sound - this way you're affecting the entire bass range & bumping that whole bass range up in a pretty balanced way, which is different to your current approach of just increasing that 20Hz Peak Filter. It's possible you'll end up with an even better and more balanced sound by tweaking the bass with the Low Shelf Filter I mentioned, and yes don't forget to take the 20Hz Peak Filter back down to 4.1dB if you're gonna try tweaking with the 105Hz Low Shelf Filter.

Either my unit can't handle it or it is interfering with the 20Hz filter because even 1dB is making the driver to rattle on low notes or whatever these noises are called For first try with my usual test clip (this clip was good till 2.5db I believe) it was fine but later with something else it was not good, bummer. Maybe the Q0.5 is the problem being too wide?

Using just the 105Hz without the 20Hz one seems problem free so far. I'll test it a bit but surely both together is not working. At least now I know how it does sound if I mess up, hopefully the drivers can tolerate it too haha

 

[Brandonfire2]

Just got a pair of these 560S (an sold my AKG K702 and my Sennheiser HD 6xx). I much prefer the 560S.
Anyway: To use with my Fosi DS2. Does it make sense to add a balanced cable to go into the 4,4 input of the Fosi? Anything better/more than used with the 3,5 input?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D7CMRQPW/?coliid=I2DGT4W8GDTGFP&colid=3R1X799YYUKN7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Quiet a lot of money compared to the cans itself.

Having had both the 560 and Ds2, yes it makes sense. The 560 is 120 ohms, and needs decent power. While only 170mw out of the balanced plug, it is still better than the 130 out of the unbalanced. Perhaps not enough for some to make a difference, but I definitely felt that they sounded better when run off the balanced plug. Great set of cans and a great dongle!

 

[Robbo99999]

Either my unit can't handle it or it is interfering with the 20Hz filter because even 1dB is making the driver to rattle on low notes or whatever these noises are called For first try with my usual test clip (this clip was good till 2.5db I believe) it was fine but later with something else it was not good, bummer. Maybe the Q0.5 is the problem being too wide?

Using just the 105Hz without the 20Hz one seems problem free so far. I'll test it a bit but surely both together is not working. At least now I know how it does sound if I mess up, hopefully the drivers can tolerate it too haha

Well you have to take the 20Hz filter back down to 4.1dB before you start applying the 105Hz Low Shelf. The Low Shelf will be Q0.71

That really shouldn't cause a problem putting 1 or more dB into that Low Shelf, and of course you're increasing the Negative preamp by 1dB each time you increase the Low Shelf by 1dB. I find it hard to believe it's a problem associated with the headphone especially when you say just a 1dB Low Shelf suddenly triggers it, doubtful. I would say you've either accidentally left the 20Hz filter at your previous 9dB and or you're not increasing the negative preamp when you're adding the extra boosts and it's digitally clipping in the bass.

The thing you tried re not using the 20Hz filter at all and instead replacing it with the Low Shelf Filter is not ideal because it's the 20Hz filter that is bringing up the subbass, and you seemed to like that given you were at around 9dB on that filter, so you don't want to get rid of that filter. If you use 20Hz filter at 4dB then that's just bumping up the subbass to be level with Harman down to 20Hz, then the 105Hz Low Shelf Filter on top of that just increases the overall bass level in a more even way to fine tune the overall bass amount.

 

[atothek]

One more notice:
I had/tried 3 refurbished 560s cans from Sennheiser (99 EUR) and 1 brand new from amazon. The new one from amazon (150 EUR) sounded noticably better! Better separation, better and cleaner sound. I have no instruments to measure, but it was apparantly I noticable difference in favor of the new one. Might me be coincidence

 

[AMDfanTO]

I bought a 560s from Amazon Canada last year and the left cup developed a rattle and distortion when playing bass heavy music in less than 2 weeks. The sound was also a bit shrill, almost metallic but balanced. If they didn't start distorting I would've kept them.

I bought a pair of HD600 about a month ago and they sound phenomenal after a 3 db bass shelf. Overall I'm much happier with the HD600 but the value proposition of the 560s is phenomenal - minus the build quality issue.

I also have no issues with the soundstage of the HD600 despite what's been said about them. The 560s soundstage sounds like everything is floating just outside of my head but sounds a bit artificial. I actually find this worked against 560s for binaural audio recordings and HRTF 3d sound when gaming. The HD600 seems to be doing better for me on that side of things.

The HD600 have also made my other headphones pretty much obsolete. Coming from Shure SRH440, FIO FT1, 560S, and a few IEMs like the Zero Red, Zero 1 and 2, and Chu DSP. Even after EQing my Zero Reds to perfection, the mid range of the HD600 is hard to compete with.

 

[unknownuser]

Well you have to take the 20Hz filter back down to 4.1dB before you start applying the 105Hz Low Shelf. The Low Shelf will be Q0.71

That really shouldn't cause a problem putting 1 or more dB into that Low Shelf, and of course you're increasing the Negative preamp by 1dB each time you increase the Low Shelf by 1dB. I find it hard to believe it's a problem associated with the headphone especially when you say just a 1dB Low Shelf suddenly triggers it, doubtful. I would say you've either accidentally left the 20Hz filter at your previous 9dB and or you're not increasing the negative preamp when you're adding the extra boosts and it's digitally clipping in the bass.

The thing you tried re not using the 20Hz filter at all and instead replacing it with the Low Shelf Filter is not ideal because it's the 20Hz filter that is bringing up the subbass, and you seemed to like that given you were at around 9dB on that filter, so you don't want to get rid of that filter. If you use 20Hz filter at 4dB then that's just bumping up the subbass to be level with Harman down to 20Hz, then the 105Hz Low Shelf Filter on top of that just increases the overall bass level in a more even way to fine tune the overall bass amount.

Maybe I overlooked something, only the right driver is making noise by the way (If you know Gamers Nexus YouTube channel, their intro logo sound effect is making the noise for example). I'm using Element IV, could be a problem with its EQ?
Preamp: -6.75 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 160.0 Hz Gain -1.3 dB Q 1.00
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1173.0 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 2.00
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 1813.0 Hz Gain 2.8 dB Q 2.00
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 3320.0 Hz Gain -2.1 dB Q 3.50
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 3870.0 Hz Gain 3.6 dB Q 2.00
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 4520.0 Hz Gain -3.7 dB Q 3.00
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 5280.0 Hz Gain -2.3 dB Q 3.00
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 6800.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 2.00

 

[Robbo99999]

Maybe I overlooked something, only the right driver is making noise by the way (If you know Gamers Nexus YouTube channel, their intro logo sound effect is making the noise for example). I'm using Element IV, could be a problem with its EQ?
Preamp: -6.75 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 160.0 Hz Gain -1.3 dB Q 1.00
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1173.0 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 2.00
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 1813.0 Hz Gain 2.8 dB Q 2.00
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 3320.0 Hz Gain -2.1 dB Q 3.50
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 3870.0 Hz Gain 3.6 dB Q 2.00
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 4520.0 Hz Gain -3.7 dB Q 3.00
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 5280.0 Hz Gain -2.3 dB Q 3.00
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 6800.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 2.00

View attachment 452550

That should be fine EQ wise in terms of the negative preamp used, so it's not that. Maybe you do have a faulty pair. I suppose you could try taking it apart & putting it back together again, in terms of taking off the earpads, and maybe you could check that there are no hairs sticking through the mesh and touching the driver, which can apparently make some strange noises. I mean a proper performing HD560s is gonna have no problem playing back loud music using that EQ.

 

[unknownuser]

That should be fine EQ wise in terms of the negative preamp used, so it's not that. Maybe you do have a faulty pair. I suppose you could try taking it apart & putting it back together again, in terms of taking off the earpads, and maybe you could check that there are no hairs sticking through the mesh and touching the driver, which can apparently make some strange noises. I mean a proper performing HD560s is gonna have no problem playing back loud music using that EQ.

Preamp gain was the problem, -6.75 dB is just not enough. Now it is clear, more rumble in games/films and the low notes in soundtracks are not thin anymore. Bass guitar is now full. So cool
If I won't find the magical EQ for the HD6xx then it's hard to go back to that, the HD560s is just better.

 

[Robbo99999]

Preamp gain was the problem, -6.75 dB is just not enough. Now it is clear, more rumble in games/films and the low notes in soundtracks are not thin anymore. Bass guitar is now full. So cool
If I won't find the magical EQ for the HD6xx then it's hard to go back to that, the HD560s is just better.

Strange, your negative preamp should have been ok before, but if it's better like that then fine. HD560s is a pretty low distortion headphone generally and also in the bass for an open back, so theoretically it never should have struggled with a Harman EQ and neither with your EQ which is just a bit more bass than Harman. Good, sorted!

 

[obsessive9119]

I picked up my 560S from Amazon last week for AU$220. So far I love them.

For the past 15+ years I’ve been listening to Beyer DT880s, DT250s and a pair of Alessandro MS Pros. Discovering EQ for the Beyers was a revelation, and really got me back into caring about audio. While I do love the MS Pros, they’re old enough and niche enough to never have been measured, so no autoeq is available and I’ve never been able to completely dial them in (though Grado bowl pads help a lot).

But now having a set of easy to drive, on-target headphones feels like a real treat. I’m sure the honeymoon will end and I’ll dig out the other ‘phones, but right now it’s hard to imagine why I’d bother.

 

[unknownuser]

Strange, your negative preamp should have been ok before, but if it's better like that then fine. HD560s is a pretty low distortion headphone generally and also in the bass for an open back, so theoretically it never should have struggled with a Harman EQ and neither with your EQ which is just a bit more bass than Harman. Good, sorted!

I'm puzzled too, maybe my unit is indeed below specs. Nothing I can do about it since without this EQ it's fine so warranty claim would be denied, also afraid to remove pads to check for dirt/hair but I doubt it since the inserts are quite dense mesh. Can you check distortion levels with your unit with my settings? Also, how mine looks compared to harman curve bass?

I ended up with this for bass, needed at least -15 preamp but for extra safety I use -17. As long as I want that 20Hz filter, without that -6ish is still problem free.

Preamp: -17 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 9.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50

 

[Robbo99999]

I'm puzzled too, maybe my unit is indeed below specs. Nothing I can do about it since without this EQ it's fine so warranty claim would be denied, also afraid to remove pads to check for dirt/hair but I doubt it since the inserts are quite dense mesh. Can you check distortion levels with your unit with my settings? Also, how mine looks compared to harman curve bass?

I ended up with this for bass, needed at least -15 preamp but for extra safety I use -17. As long as I want that 20Hz filter, without that -6ish is still problem free.

Preamp: -17 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 9.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50

You've changed your EQ, you're running a +9dB Low Shelf on the bass as well as the initial 20Hz Peak Filter 4.1dB boost that was part of my original EQ. Before you were just running my EQ so for some reason you've added an additional +9dB bass boost to my EQ, so therefore of course you need a negative preamp closer to -17dB rather than the -6dB negative preamp that would have been ok with my original EQ. Hmmm, you're being pretty inconsistent with your approach, so I feel you're trolling, but it's a very strange kind of trolling! Whatever, if you've got a solution that works for you then keep going with it - in your earlier post you'd said you were fine with everything and now you come up with this new EQ that has an additional 9dB bass boost and the strange comment re the negative preamp - of course you have to have your negative preamp covering off the sum total of the largest EQ boost on the curve - you're fine with your minus 17dB negative preamp. You're running a massive bass boost in comparison to Harman, if that's what you like, then keep using it. Earlier you were saying you had bass distortion issue when running much lower bass boost which you said you ended up solving by running a larger negative preamp, which was strange, and now you're running an even larger bass boost and of course having to run a much larger negative preamp (which is normal) and you're saying it's fine, so don't worry about distortion even though of course you're running a massive bass boost now, but you're being pretty inconsistent overall with what seems imagined problems and imagined solutions combined with wildly different bass boost levels between last time you said it was good & what you're running now, so it's just all a little strange, you're being very inconsistent, I don't want to say you're trolling, it would be a very strange type of trolling - look, if the headphone and your amended EQ is working ok, just keep using it & enjoy it.

 

[unknownuser]

You've changed your EQ, you're running a +9dB Low Shelf on the bass as well as the initial 20Hz Peak Filter 4.1dB boost that was part of my original EQ. Before you were just running my EQ so for some reason you've added an additional +9dB bass boost to my EQ, so therefore of course you need a negative preamp closer to -17dB rather than the -6dB negative preamp that would have been ok with my original EQ. Hmmm, you're being pretty inconsistent with your approach, so I feel you're trolling, but it's a very strange kind of trolling! Whatever, if you've got a solution that works for you then keep going with it - in your earlier post you'd said you were fine with everything and now you come up with this new EQ that has an additional 9dB bass boost and the strange comment re the negative preamp - of course you have to have your negative preamp covering off the sum total of the largest EQ boost on the curve - you're fine with your minus 17dB negative preamp. You're running a massive bass boost in comparison to Harman, if that's what you like, then keep using it. Earlier you were saying you had bass distortion issue when running much lower bass boost which you said you ended up solving by running a larger negative preamp, which was strange, and now you're running an even larger bass boost and of course having to run a much larger negative preamp (which is normal) and you're saying it's fine, so don't worry about distortion even though of course you're running a massive bass boost now, but you're being pretty inconsistent overall with what seems imagined problems and imagined solutions combined with wildly different bass boost levels between last time you said it was good & what you're running now, so it's just all a little strange, you're being very inconsistent, I don't want to say you're trolling, it would be a very strange type of trolling - look, if the headphone and your amended EQ is working ok, just keep using it & enjoy it.

Let's recap so you can see why I was confused about your guide because originally you said nothing about the preamp (probably you assumed that I have the brain to know that I need to adjust that too)

So originally I said in post 605

Now my DAC is supporting more filters and types so I managed to add your original with PK filters, I'm total rookie but I boosted your 20Hz filter quite a bit, gain is 9 and kick drums and explosions are much better and I don't hear distortion or driver noise at my listening levels, I would go higher but afraid to do it.

Now with the DAC update I managed to compare to the my HD6xx using Amir's HD650 profile and the HD6xx is muffled compared to the HD560s, the 560s is quite a bit better. Only bass guitar still sounds more realistic with the HD6xx, maybe I just don't like Amir's profile but currently the HD560s sounds better to me.

Then you suggested to address my bass guitar concern with the 105Hz filter but initially you said nothing about preamp

That's ok, shouldn't be a problem, if you like it with the extra bass it's fine. Increasing that 20Hz peak filter by 5dB is not quite as extreme as it seems on the surface because it's a peak filter at 20Hz so it's effect decreases the closer you get to 100Hz, so mainly you're just bumping up the really low subbass by adding another 5dB to that 20Hz filter. What you could try for a more balanced approach of tweaking the bass is to take that 20Hz filter back down to the original 4.1dB figure, then add in a Low Shelf Filter at 105Hz, Q0.71, then slowly increase that by by 1dB at a time until you like the sound - this way you're affecting the entire bass range & bumping that whole bass range up in a pretty balanced way, which is different to your current approach of just increasing that 20Hz Peak Filter. It's possible you'll end up with an even better and more balanced sound by tweaking the bass with the Low Shelf Filter I mentioned, and yes don't forget to take the 20Hz Peak Filter back down to 4.1dB if you're gonna try tweaking with the 105Hz Low Shelf Filter.

then I said this

Either my unit can't handle it or it is interfering with the 20Hz filter because even 1dB is making the driver to rattle on low notes or whatever these noises are called For first try with my usual test clip (this clip was good till 2.5db I believe) it was fine but later with something else it was not good, bummer. Maybe the Q0.5 is the problem being too wide?

Using just the 105Hz without the 20Hz one seems problem free so far. I'll test it a bit but surely both together is not working. At least now I know how it does sound if I mess up, hopefully the drivers can tolerate it too haha

Well you have to take the 20Hz filter back down to 4.1dB before you start applying the 105Hz Low Shelf. The Low Shelf will be Q0.71

That really shouldn't cause a problem putting 1 or more dB into that Low Shelf, and of course you're increasing the Negative preamp by 1dB each time you increase the Low Shelf by 1dB. I find it hard to believe it's a problem associated with the headphone especially when you say just a 1dB Low Shelf suddenly triggers it, doubtful. I would say you've either accidentally left the 20Hz filter at your previous 9dB and or you're not increasing the negative preamp when you're adding the extra boosts and it's digitally clipping in the bass.

The thing you tried re not using the 20Hz filter at all and instead replacing it with the Low Shelf Filter is not ideal because it's the 20Hz filter that is bringing up the subbass, and you seemed to like that given you were at around 9dB on that filter, so you don't want to get rid of that filter. If you use 20Hz filter at 4dB then that's just bumping up the subbass to be level with Harman down to 20Hz, then the 105Hz Low Shelf Filter on top of that just increases the overall bass level in a more even way to fine tune the overall bass amount.

So I posted the starting point after this post and I said that it creates artifacts but you said that it shouldn't cause the problem
Preamp: -6.75 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50

That should be fine EQ wise in terms of the negative preamp used, so it's not that. Maybe you do have a faulty pair. I suppose you could try taking it apart & putting it back together again, in terms of taking off the earpads, and maybe you could check that there are no hairs sticking through the mesh and touching the driver, which can apparently make some strange noises. I mean a proper performing HD560s is gonna have no problem playing back loud music using that EQ.

Then in post 614 I happily realized that the preamp being problem but left out that after this with your guide I kept increasing and above 7 started getting quite good but ended up with 9dB which needed atleast -13 preamp.

So I'm sorry if it looked to you trolling but you first said that not the preamp value is the cause of artifacts so I was 1dB preamp value behind because the starting point should've been this:

Preamp: -7.75 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50

After figuring this out then your guide (you're increasing the Negative preamp by 1dB each time you increase the Low Shelf by 1dB) worked

My hearing test result turned out to be good so it should be personal how much bass some feel decent. But you really need this boost if you want sub bass to come alive, one day I hope to have the space for loud speakers to experience proper bass.

Just check out this filter raised to this and listen Why So Serious by Hans Zimmer from the 3:30ish mark, this part is pretty quiet without boost

I hope that it is more clear now and not more muddy for you anymore English is not my first language but hopefully you have a clearer picture

I'm super grateful for your help, because of you I now know more about EQing

 

[Robbo99999]

Let's recap so you can see why I was confused about your guide because originally you said nothing about the preamp (probably you assumed that I have the brain to know that I need to adjust that too)

So originally I said in post 605

Then you suggested to address my bass guitar concern with the 105Hz filter but initially you said nothing about preamp


then I said this




So I posted the starting point after this post and I said that it creates artifacts but you said that it shouldn't cause the problem
Preamp: -6.75 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50


Then in post 614 I happily realized that the preamp being problem but left out that after this with your guide I kept increasing and above 7 started getting quite good but ended up with 9dB which needed atleast -13 preamp.

So I'm sorry if it looked to you trolling but you first said that not the preamp value is the cause of artifacts so I was 1dB preamp value behind because the starting point should've been this:

Preamp: -7.75 dB
Filter 1: ON LSC Fc 105 Hz Gain 1.0 dB Q 0.71
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 20.0 Hz Gain 4.1 dB Q 0.50

After figuring this out then your guide (you're increasing the Negative preamp by 1dB each time you increase the Low Shelf by 1dB) worked

My hearing test result turned out to be good so it should be personal how much bass some feel decent. But you really need this boost if you want sub bass to come alive, one day I hope to have the space for loud speakers to experience proper bass.

Just check out this filter raised to this and listen Why So Serious by Hans Zimmer from the 3:30ish mark, this part is pretty quiet without boost

I hope that it is more clear now and not more muddy for you anymore English is not my first language but hopefully you have a clearer picture

I'm super grateful for your help, because of you I now know more about EQing

Well, the first time I made a link in this thread to my EQ was at this post:

Sennheiser HD560s Owner's Thread.

Release (old) 560S Preamp: -12.5 dB Filter: ON LS Fc 130 Hz Gain 10 dB Filter: ON PK Fc 150 Hz Gain -1.1 dB Q 0.8 Filter: ON PK Fc 1320 Hz Gain -2.8 dB Q 1.6 Filter: ON PK Fc 1850 Hz Gain 2.2 dB Q 1.3 Filter: ON PK Fc 3230 Hz Gain -1.1 dB Q 4 Filter: ON PK Fc 4450 Hz Gain -3.2 dB Q 5.713...

www.audiosciencereview.com

which links to the following post which includes the note about putting in the Negative Preamp:

New version of Sennheiser HD 560S (!)

Hey again! I used the AutoEQ import tool available in EqualizerAPO w/ the Peace UI - looks like it is quite jank. Here is attempt #2! I hope I got this right this time! Should I move your settings to the front bands (1, 2, 3), or leave oratory1990's settings as bands 1-10? Does that make a...

www.audiosciencereview.com

and then in the following post of yours you were saying you were having strange noise in the right driver whilst using a negative preamp of -6.75dB which would have adequately covered the EQ you were using at the time so it was reasonable for me to know that the negative preamp wasn't causing your problem:

Sennheiser HD560s Owner's Thread.

It's loud enough, def. Just was asking whether there would be some other advantage/"better sound" with the balanced connection. Cheers.

www.audiosciencereview.com

You've been pretty inconsistent so the points you're bringing up in your latest post don't all ring true, but anyway, as long as you've found a solution that's fine. I'm not convinced that you're not providing a subtle and somewhat strange form of trolling, but I'm done with it anyway, and pleased for you that you've got a working solution if you're not trolling.

EDIT: Hell, even in your original post in this thread on the topic you were using a Negative Preamp that covered the EQ you were using, so what you're saying is not adding up, but anyway, I'm done:

Sennheiser HD560s Owner's Thread.

They are £99 on Amazon UK (Sold By Amazon ) Possibly until Monday https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HNFV61M?psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE Nice, very good price, totally worth it!

www.audiosciencereview.com