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Seeking USB-powered audio interface that doesn't pop when power cycled

monx

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Hi, I'm looking for a cheap USB-A (or USB-C with adapter) audio interface.

I currently have two of them: a $5 generic thumb-sized thing, and a Behringer U-Control UCA202.
These work fine, except that they both emit several loud electrical pops/clicks on the output when I connect my laptop to the USB hub.

Does anybody know of a cheap USB powered interface that doesn't have these nasty power cycle noise issues?
 
Hi, I'm looking for a cheap USB-A (or USB-C with adapter) audio interface.

I currently have two of them: a $5 generic thumb-sized thing, and a Behringer U-Control UCA202./
These work fine, except that they both emit several loud electrical pops/clicks on the output when I connect my laptop to the USB hub.

Does anybody know of a cheap USB powered interface that doesn't have these nasty power cycle noise issues?
I’ve had / got Audient, Arturia and Topping and never had that issue.
 
Thanks for the recs - I'll try a few cheaper ones (apparently these are called USB audio *adapters*) and go for the MOTU M4 if nothing works out, since I've had my eye on it for a while.
 
I have a UA Volt 2 that has never popped once despite me not respecting the proper "power order" of source>amp (on) and amp>source (off).

By contrast, my Behringer UM2 pops all the time when it powers on and off.
 
Hi, I'm looking for a cheap USB-A (or USB-C with adapter) audio interface.

I currently have two of them: a $5 generic thumb-sized thing, and a Behringer U-Control UCA202.
These work fine, except that they both emit several loud electrical pops/clicks on the output when I connect my laptop to the USB hub.

Does anybody know of a cheap USB powered interface that doesn't have these nasty power cycle noise issues?
This depends not only on the audio interface, but on your entire system/components and can also be a grounding problem.
The fact that connecting your laptop to a USB hub causes a problem is not a good sign.

Does this also happen if you connect the Behringer directly? And the hub is not connected at all?
 
This depends not only on the audio interface, but on your entire system/components and can also be a grounding problem.
The fact that connecting your laptop to a USB hub causes a problem is not a good sign.

Does this also happen if you connect the Behringer directly? And the hub is not connected at all?

I think the OP (correct me if I'm wrong) is describing the typical behavior of powering on or off a preamplifier that is connected to an amplifier that is already on. You usually get an electrical impulse that becomes an audible "pop" into the speakers when the preamp doesn't feature the necessary protection mechanisms (like a delay when powering on or off).

The solution is either remembering the rule "amps on last, amps off first" or buying a device that doesn't pop (in case you want to leave your amps on).
 
I think the OP (correct me if I'm wrong) is describing the typical behavior of powering on or off a preamplifier that is connected to an amplifier that is already on. You usually get an electrical impulse that becomes an audible "pop" into the speakers when the preamp doesn't feature the necessary protection mechanisms (like a delay when powering on or off).

The solution is either remembering the rule "amps on last, amps off first" or buying a device that doesn't pop (in case you want to leave your amps on).
I'll correct you. OP's statement "These work fine, except that they both emit several loud electrical pops/clicks on the output when I connect my laptop to the USB hub."
 
Any device that uses a single supply with a capacitor-coupled output internally will have this issue to some degree, as the output has to move up to about half that supply when powering up. In order to avoid this fundamental problem, you'll need either
a) an output driver (or headphone driver) IC generating a negative supply of its own by means of a charge pump DC/DC, something that has become fairly common in the last decade and change
or
b) a split supply for the entire analog stage
or
c) extra circuitry for automatic output muting.

You'll recognize (a) by the ability to output 2 Vrms on a 3.3 V supply, although the datasheet will generally proudly proclaim a DC-coupled output anyway.

Now bargain basement audio interfaces tend to be hitting their price point by keeping circuit complexity to a minimum and using old, often outdated components. In case of the UM2 or UCA202, that's a trusty TI PCM2900 audio codec, which generates a +3.3 V supply from USB +5 V and generally performs roughly like a 20-year-old onboard codec.

If you want modern(ish) technology for cheap, it has to be in some sort of mass-market item, like a headphone dongle. Maybe not the $5 kind, but possibly a $10 one, and definitely some ES92xx, CS43131 or AK4376/77(A) based job.

The prices for USB audio interfaces with split analog supplies have come down noticeably, and there is hardly any single supply ones left around the 100€ price point. Behringer UMC2xxHD, Native Instruments Komplete Audio 1/2, M-Audio AIR 192|4, that's about it for the big names I think. I have even found a +/-5 V split supply in the 65€ Swissonic UA-2x2, although its 20-year-old Wolfson consumer audio codec only has single-ended outputs so you will get pops if you don't turn down the volume. I think the cheapest options that shouldn't have pop noise ought to be ESI Amber i1 (80€), Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd gen (89€), Arturia Minifuse 1 (96€), Tascam US-1x2HR (99€).

If this is too rich for your blood, look for a used CS4272-based deal with split power supply, like a 1st/2nd-gen Scarlett or something.
 
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