Screen wall speaker compromise options (toe in, enclosure volume, etc)

[sumitagarwal]

Well, after all of that I reviewed my measurements again and saw I only really have about 28" plus maybe 3 inches until the screen. The Monolith 13 is just a little too tight at 29.1" deep, and it also appears to backordered (at least on Amazon).

I ended up cancelling the Monolith 13 and ordering a 2-pack of the HSU VTF-15H MK2 instead. It's slightly smaller and lighter. On the down side, the output appears to be slightly lower. On the plus side it has no DSP, so I'm hoping that reduces the overall audio latency of my system. They don't charge sales tax so cost is actually slightly less.

I can't really find information on how it performs in terms of distortion and accuracy compared to the Monolith 13. I'm hoping that it is still a very accurate and linear subwoofer.

 

[Dal1as]

That's still a good sub. Spend the savings on a umik, rew, and mini-dsp hd. There are many tutorials and videos to time align subs correctly.

You'll thank me.

 

[NiagaraPete]

at least on Amazon

Order direct monoprice.com

 

[sumitagarwal]

That's still a good sub. Spend the savings on a umik, rew, and mini-dsp hd. There are many tutorials and videos to time align subs correctly.

You'll thank me.

My SR6012 includes Audyssey XT32 and apparently is compatible with the new MultEQ-X, which I might license. I saw that recently MultEQ-X has been updated to integrate with REW, although I'm not sure exactly what's meant by that. With all that it should take care of time alignment without needing a miniDSP, and the existing Audyssey mic is supposed to be fairly accurate.

Order direct monoprice.com

Unfortunately they're $424 more each on Monoprice.

 

[NiagaraPete]

Unfortunately they're $424 more each on Monoprice

Wow, I won't be buying there then.

 

[sumitagarwal]

Got some more feedback from Genelec!

The toe-in design is best if the goal is to get best possible aiming for the center seat at first row, toe-in is a good thing. If trying to get a good coverage for all seats, we would recommend placing the speakers parallel to the wall.

AIW26 and AIW26B are very similar in terms of technical specifications and acoustics. Mostly changes are related to the casing and mounting mechanism.

Closest equivalents are 8050B speakers. They have matching max SPL and almost identical frequency response range.

I'm surprised that they consider the equivalent monitor to be the 8050B! I would have thought maybe the 8040.

 

[Dal1as]

Got some more feedback from Genelec!

The toe-in design is best if the goal is to get best possible aiming for the center seat at first row, toe-in is a good thing. If trying to get a good coverage for all seats, we would recommend placing the speakers parallel to the wall.

AIW26 and AIW26B are very similar in terms of technical specifications and acoustics. Mostly changes are related to the casing and mounting mechanism.

Closest equivalents are 8050B speakers. They have matching max SPL and almost identical frequency response range.

I'm surprised that they consider the equivalent monitor to be the 8050B! I would have thought maybe the 8040.

Interesting. In my experience better coverage for all seats involves more toe in. Even going off axis to the far side of the mlp. Not sure I agree with that part.

 

[sumitagarwal]

Interesting. In my experience better coverage for all seats involves more toe in. Even going off axis to the far side of the mlp. Not sure I agree with that part.

Agreed

 

[sumitagarwal]

So here's my front wall design... this image has Monolith subs but sized to VTF-15H MK2 since I couldn't find a head-on image of the VTF

 

[sumitagarwal]

And a slight update: this design puts swaps the extra layer of 5/8" (with Green Glue) from the back of the wall to the front of the wall to 1) provide more rigidity to the front wall especially around the center speaker and 2) slightly break up the horn-iness of the concave front wall.

 

[Dal1as]

And a slight update: this design puts swaps the extra layer of 5/8" (with Green Glue) from the back of the wall to the front of the wall to 1) provide more rigidity to the front wall especially around the center speaker and 2) slightly break up the horn-iness of the concave front wall.

View attachment 235630

Looks good. Only issue is the subs being so close. They are going to act as one sub and not help eachother with room nulls.

Not to mention they are fixed so if there is a big issue it turns into a severe headache.

I would suggest measuring that with a good mic and REW before doing all the work. Or at least have a backup plan.

Maybe try putting the 2nd sub in the right corner wall somehow would give you a corner 1/3rd sub array which would help nulls and offset room issue.

Maybe test before doing the 2nd layer of dry wall and putting the screen wall up. Those aren't loadbearing walls so no reason not to. Just get a mic and rew.

Plan on getting a third sub for in the rear or the wall next to the stairs. It would really even things out in that room.

If you look at the diagram I posted you'll see how I utilized 3 subs. The bass sounds the same through out the room except for a slight null by the left surround speaker due to the opening.

 

[sumitagarwal]

Looks good. Only issue is the subs being so close. They are going to act as one sub and not help eachother with room nulls.

Not to mention they are fixed so if there is a big issue it turns into a severe headache.

I would suggest measuring that with a good mic and REW before doing all the work. Or at least have a backup plan.

Thanks. Backup plan is two additional subs under the second row riser. Thoughts?

 

[Dal1as]

Thanks. Backup plan is two additional subs under the second row riser. Thoughts?

Like a hover boss? Could work for tactile but the nulls could still be there due to the different tuning.

I added to/edited my last post with more info.

 

[sumitagarwal]

Like a hover boss? Could work for tactile but the nulls could still be there due to the different tuning.

I added to/edited my last post with more info.

Thanks, very helpful. I can potentially put a third sub in the side wall in a similar location to what you've done. However, I'm hoping I can build a riser with some venting in it to do it under there. Nothing fancy, just conventional sub under the riser.