110, cheers, BHi,
Is your Vidar 220/240V or 110V version?
Regards
110, cheers, BHi,
Is your Vidar 220/240V or 110V version?
Regards
110, cheers, B
Either the unit, or unit plus audioquest nrg y3, seems to compress transients in my rig, I'd be interested in knowing if you observe the same in yours.Thanks mate.
So 110v models hum too. This disproves my theory (based on the testimonials) that the mechanical hum was mainly impacting 240 EU/AU models.
I'll see if I could audition one of these DC offset blockers.
Cheers
Thanks mate.
So 110v models hum too. This disproves my theory (based on the testimonials) that the mechanical hum was mainly impacting 240 EU/AU models.
I'll see if I could audition one of these DC offset blockers.
Cheers
That sounds terrible. Send that schiit (pun intended) back and get something better.I am also getting hum. None at first, but recently started. I thought it was my D90 DAC, swapped it to my backup (SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII) same hum. Finally grabbed a 3.5mm to RCA and went into the vidar, same hum.
Either the unit, or unit plus audioquest nrg y3, seems to compress transients in my rig, I'd be interested in knowing if you observe the same in yours.
I run mine as mono blocks into 4 ohm continuous, and they don’t protect until they get quite loud.this amplifier can deliver 2 ohm continuous? or it will enter into protection mode ?, some kef speakers are 3 ohm and i don't wanna problems...
I have a nad c355bee which is 80w at 4ohm and 8ohm, the r300s are 3.2ohm and with 55% of volume i get a clapping (?) in 100-120hz, maybe the speakers go too low and producing clipping only in the woofers but the others part of FR suit well the impedances and can go louder but the bass give me the problem, i need something better than this with my r300s... my amp doesn't shut down but produce the distortion like the woofer gonna broke xDI use Vidal with Kef LS50. Amir measured minimum impedance of that speaker at 4 ohms. My Vidar has never gone into protection shut down.
The only way to know is to compare the two side by side. Now, I’ve never owned or heard a Hypex. But Amir has reviewed both, and I would say the clear winner is the Hypex. I bought my Vidal before joining ASR, so I wasn’t aware. And, I had the hum, and so did others. It’s not terrible, but if you can do better with Hypex for similar $$, why not do better?I have a nad c355bee which is 80w at 4ohm and 8ohm, the r300s are 3.2ohm and with 55% of volume i get a clapping (?) in 100-120hz, maybe the speakers go too low and producing clipping only in the woofers but the others part of FR suit well the impedances and can go louder but the bass give me the problem, i need something better than this with my r300s... my amp doesn't shut down but produce the distortion like the woofer gonna broke xD
So the vidar work well? i need a new amp and im between the hypex thing and this, i saw a guy with hum... is that normal? i don't wanna buy a special DC that remove the thing...
I like those hyperx amp too! Where can I buy those hyperx amp? I saw a website from Francia im not sure if they ship to my country in latamThe only way to know is to compare the two side by side. Now, I’ve never owned or heard a Hypex. But Amir has reviewed both, and I would say the clear winner is the Hypex. I bought my Vidal before joining ASR, so I wasn’t aware. And, I had the hum, and so did others. It’s not terrible, but if you can do better with Hypex for similar $$, why not do better?
Yeah. They do exist and expensive but produce quality sound. Nowadays, we see world develop into a way that Wifi + Smart thing like, Subscription thing become popular. You can open the fram of those electronic. Thousand part intergrated in class D. The more electronic stuff, the more risk of a tiny mosfet broke down and the whole thing would not do a simple process to amplify sound. There are many reason why there is still class A AB D T exist. They have their own unique features that suitable for different individuals. Why don't we all use a prius toyota or gas saving corolla to save the energy, save space, save cost maintenance. Depend on yours taste and budget.Seems as though the "crappy" Denon 3500 is better than this since it has 7 channels instead of only two, along with bass management, room correction, subwoofer eq, all the various surround modes, wifi, etc etc etc etc, lower SINAD despite all the complexity, and its cheaper. You then have to spend more money for a separate DAC with better performance, only to end up with a dirtier signal than a cheap Denon AVR. I don't understand the reason for a product like this to even exist.