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Putting my dealer hat on, I'd suggest putting each mono amp as near the speakers as possible and have good quality longer interconnects between pre and power amps... If you can't, don't worry obviously, but it was the first thing I thought of when I saw your pic.
I'd never though of that - I had believed it was better to have the shortest interconnects as possible in hopes of picking up less noise to get amplified. Admitted audio n00b.
The Schiit units probably don't care either way to be honest. If the speakers were active and you weren't using a fully balanced connection, you could have several metres to each speaker as I once did. Mind you, the RCA-only preamp was specifically designed to drive lengthy audio interconnects and I never ever had an issue with hum or noise. Just been looking at pics of my stereo stuff thirty years back when I finally had my own room and the amp(s) were in between the speakers when the latter were passive, the preamp around 7m away...
Putting my dealer hat on, I'd suggest putting each mono amp as near the speakers as possible and have good quality longer interconnects between pre and power amps... If you can't, don't worry obviously, but it was the first thing I thought of when I saw your pic.
Putting my dealer hat on, I'd suggest putting each mono amp as near the speakers as possible and have good quality longer interconnects between pre and power amps... If you can't, don't worry obviously, but it was the first thing I thought of when I saw your pic.
Objectively, which one is closer to the proverbial “wire with the gain”? The Serene, at least in terms of SINAD, looks like a winner to me. Not sure how to interpret the other published results though…
I had a PS1 music YouTube vid going and found a better example what going back and forth over 12 'oclock on the knob sounds like. I recorded the vid here comin' out of my Buchardt's
This is a single tone but with me going back and forth over 12 'oclock at the moment where it jumps in db, or micro disconnects/reconnects/whatever is happening. To me it's a lot more jarring than if I was going back and forth over any other point in the knob (ie: between 9-10 for example), 12 o'clock just makes it most apparent where it's not a gradual increase/decrease it's actually more of a "jumpy/poppy" increase/decrease.
This hopefully gives a better example of the worst it can get with the speakers (Buchardt S300 MK II.. not overly sensitive.. somewhat harder to drive 4ohm).. When in headphones - either my Aeon 2 Noire planars, or the Audio Technica M40X's - you hear this kind of jumpiness/disconnect/reconnect even as you are nearing 12'oclock on the knob.
Unfortunately even when in passive mode whenever I do touch the knob it's usually to go either just to 12 or over.. so it's the one position I'm floating between the most so I notice it quite a bit whenever I go to adjust (sometimes I adjust just to feel the knob.. I'm weird like that)
My super new Schiit Freya S is doing the same. I also notice there is a slight tactile bump at the 12 oclock position. Also, the knob is easier to turn at both extremes than in the mid. Weird that its not linear. Is all of this normal, and should I return it? I feel like like every other cheap preamp ive ever owned had smoother knobs than this.
My super new Schiit Freya S is doing the same. I also notice there is a slight tactile bump at the 12 oclock position. Also, the knob is easier to turn at both extremes than in the mid. Weird that its not linear. Is all of this normal, and should I return it? I feel like like every other cheap preamp ive ever owned had smoother knobs than this.
Sciit Freya S owners.
Your thoughts.
Need a solid state (SS) preamp to feed my Bryston 4BSST and model Ts.
Would prefer a Bryston BP25 or higher due to the obvious synergy it should deliver but I'm open to other quality options since the "high end" preamps are huge money even used.
Currently using a VTL 2.5 with Mazda NOS tubes.
You may wonder.. why? The VTL is primo. I have no real complaints. I've been using the VTL with various amps for about 15 years and I'm curious what a quality SS unit would sound like paired to the 4BSST and Model Ts.
I listen to rock and pop and love the impact of high dynamics. You know, that thump in your chest. Its not that the VTL falls short but it is a tube pre and I believe SS may deliver even more impact.
I don't own a Freya S so can't/won't comment on "synergy" with your Bryston gear, but with the 15 day Schiit return policy you don't have much to lose.
Ya. I just hate doing that. Would like to feel confident it will perform well before ordering. Maybe I'll contact them and make sure a return isn't an issue if I just don't like the sound.
Ya. I just hate doing that. Would like to feel confident it will perform well before ordering. Maybe I'll contact them and make sure a return isn't an issue if I just don't like the sound.
I don't believe it has a "sound". It's transparent according to the measurements in passive mode. I have the Freya+ and it is as advertised-transparent (in passive mode).
@Jason Stoddard I see the ragnarok pics were updated to reflect the toroidal transformer change. Are there new measurements, as well? Does the change affect the sound?
So why do people need a preamp these days? Seems that setting aside $700 towards a purchase of Benchmark DAC3 or the like is a more rational choice. And I do like the Freya especially now that they ditched the tubes, but can't think of a use case for my purposes, then you still lose couple of dBs of SINAD while going through it.
They are a must with active speakers that generally only have one set of inputs. Some offer both RCA and XLR, but it's switchable - one or the other. My Freya S has finally found a home in my main system, used in passive mode exclusively. I wasn't sure after I got it, but it's all good now. I use RCA exclusively.
I think I found out the hard way that my Stax SRM 717 does this. It's reasonable to assume other Stax electrostatic amps do also.
I'd been using my Stax SRM 717 with a switch that also converts between RCA and XLR. Everything was great until I added a Monoprice THX amp and connected with XLR's. I got low volume and high distortion. Unfortunately, in troubleshooting I made the mistake of plugging the Stax back in while the THX amp was powered on - and my THX amp died. I opened up the switch and the only thing I found that was slightly odd was that the grounds were all tied together?
I had hoped the Freya could resolve this issue for me and give me additional functionality. I wonder if the Freya's issues with amps that short their inputs, stems from the fact that the grounds are tied? Someone else asked earlier in this thread, and I didn't see a response.
Was hoping someone could help me, I'd like to get a Freya S to have a separate stereo chain whilst using the same power amp for my front L&R channels, without going through my receiver and was wondering if there's a way to integrate my subwoofer to have a 2.1 system effectively. I have a SVS PB3000 subwoofer.
The planned chain would be as follows and I'd be using a Schiit Sys as purely a switcher so that I can use the one power amp and so its volume would always be left at max.
For Home Theatre: Denon 4700 L&R pre-outs >>> into Schiit Sys input 1 >>> Sys Output into Emotiva Power Amp. (N.B. there is a sub out from the Denon to the PB3000's subwoofer input, so of the L&R RCA input on the sub, the R channel input is taken).
For Stereo: Schiit Yggdrasil >>> Freya S >>> Schiit Sys input 2 >>> Sys Output into Emotiva Power Amp.
Question is, with the above set up in mind, can I use another set of the Freya S's SE outputs into a Y cable joiner and feed that into the available input channel on the Subwoofer? And then set the subwoofer filter on the app for the best blend?
Would the sub know to differentiate the two different inputs?
Was hoping someone could help me, I'd like to get a Freya S to have a separate stereo chain whilst using the same power amp for my front L&R channels, without going through my receiver and was wondering if there's a way to integrate my subwoofer to have a 2.1 system effectively. I have a SVS PB3000 subwoofer.
The planned chain would be as follows and I'd be using a Schiit Sys as purely a switcher so that I can use the one power amp and so its volume would always be left at max.
For Home Theatre: Denon 4700 L&R pre-outs >>> into Schiit Sys input 1 >>> Sys Output into Emotiva Power Amp. (N.B. there is a sub out from the Denon to the PB3000's subwoofer input, so of the L&R RCA input on the sub, the R channel input is taken).
For Stereo: Schiit Yggdrasil >>> Freya S >>> Schiit Sys input 2 >>> Sys Output into Emotiva Power Amp.
Question is, with the above set up in mind, can I use another set of the Freya S's SE outputs into a Y cable joiner and feed that into the available input channel on the Subwoofer? And then set the subwoofer filter on the app for the best blend?
Would the sub know to differentiate the two different inputs?
Functionally that would work. But you really don't want to combine audio channels using a wye (Y), it will not give you the results you want. For example, summing two 50 hz signals that are 180* out of phase will give you silence.
You can put a switch on the rca inputs to the subwoofer, but that will be annoying to constantly toggle. I would prefer to use the high level (speaker wire) inputs for one of the sources, and rca for the other. The system should be able to utilize both simultaneously, but probably want to test that.
Edit: never mind, I see that your sub does not have speaker level inputs. What you want to do then is to install a Y, but not for the two channels out of the Freya. Instead, you want one of the channels from Freya Y'd with the single subwoofer output of your Denon. This should connect to the LFE rca input. Then, put the remaining channel from the Freya by itself in the other RCA input. That should work and be relatively seamless.
Was hoping someone could help me, I'd like to get a Freya S to have a separate stereo chain whilst using the same power amp for my front L&R channels, without going through my receiver and was wondering if there's a way to integrate my subwoofer to have a 2.1 system effectively. I have a SVS PB3000 subwoofer.
The planned chain would be as follows and I'd be using a Schiit Sys as purely a switcher so that I can use the one power amp and so its volume would always be left at max.
For Home Theatre: Denon 4700 L&R pre-outs >>> into Schiit Sys input 1 >>> Sys Output into Emotiva Power Amp. (N.B. there is a sub out from the Denon to the PB3000's subwoofer input, so of the L&R RCA input on the sub, the R channel input is taken).
For Stereo: Schiit Yggdrasil >>> Freya S >>> Schiit Sys input 2 >>> Sys Output into Emotiva Power Amp.
Question is, with the above set up in mind, can I use another set of the Freya S's SE outputs into a Y cable joiner and feed that into the available input channel on the Subwoofer? And then set the subwoofer filter on the app for the best blend?
Would the sub know to differentiate the two different inputs?
Functionally that would work. But you really don't want to combine audio channels using a wye (Y), it will not give you the results you want. For example, summing two 50 hz signals that are 180* out of phase will give you silence.
You can put a switch on the rca inputs to the subwoofer, but that will be annoying to constantly toggle. I would prefer to use the high level (speaker wire) inputs for one of the sources, and rca for the other. The system should be able to utilize both simultaneously, but probably want to test that.
Edit: never mind, I see that your sub does not have speaker level inputs. What you want to do then is to install a Y, but not for the two channels out of the Freya. Instead, you want one of the channels from Freya Y'd with the single subwoofer output of your Denon. This should connect to the LFE rca input. Then, put the remaining channel from the Freya by itself in the other RCA input. That should work and be relatively seamless.
Oh wow I hadn't thought of doing the Y cable like that - do you know if others have done something similar in the past to good results? Am assuming there'd be no degradation of signal doing this and no need to manually toggle/switch anything on the subwoofer itself right?