Sabaj A30a announced

[Tonton_ZEeD]

Well, maybe, maybe not for nothing, it's the ionly piece of equipment triggered.

I didn't take picture sorry, i apply thermal paste on the bottom lid, where is the mosfet (i think it is) touch the lid to cool. The original paste was dry.

I still have the same problems if i forgot to turn on the fan under the amp.

@Tonton_ZEeD, before trashing it.... try simply pressing the On/Off button on the A30a remote. That is, press the On/Off button to turn it Off, wait about 10 seconds. then press the On/Off button to turn it On and wait for the connection to show, on the screen, as complete. I suggest this only because I have noticed that the A30a seems to like to ask for connection rather than being asked.... strange but when the A30a asks the sound seems to be ok/better/good but when asked the sound is not as good and sometimes not good.

Note that and perhaps/maybe, if the connection drops out between the A30a and the Feeding device, that the Feeding device (will highly likely) be the Asker, not the A30a.

If you try this, let us know how it goes, for you :=)

This trick work, but thermal issues still appears :/

We will see if my amp function propaly this summer.

if not i will replace it with a wiim amp pro ou a wiim ultra and 1 or 2 audiophonics power amplifier.

yesterday evening, it work fine, this morning i experience the same issue 5 times already.

 

[KL....]

I still have the same problems if i forgot to turn on the fan under the amp.


This trick work, but thermal issues still appears :/

We will see if my amp function properly this summer.

if not i will replace it with a wiim amp pro or a wiim ultra and 1 or 2 audiophonics power amplifier.

yesterday evening, it work fine, this morning i experience the same issue 5 times already.

Thank you for letting us know that 'This trick work' but it is a little unfortunate, isn't it? Perhaps that is why there is an update to the SPDIF sense in FW v1.12, which implys that Sabaj noticed an improvement was required in this area. It would appear that FW v1.12 was addressing a Jitter issue or DSP Analytic issue or both, what do you sense/think? If it is a Jitter issue then they could be Dither settings/improvements, couldn't they?, which tends to imply that it is a clock/timeing issue, doesn't it? but perhaps it is completely a DSP Analytic issue although it could be both, couldn't it?

Still the A30a is a very (very) nicely performing (digital like the Devialet and thanks to the Axign AX5689 chip) integrated power amplifyer, isn't it? My experience is now.... definitely fabulous Bass (tight, extended, full, good weight, speed/impact), very good Midrange (fullness, good weight, resolution, expression), and the Highs are now now nicely resolved (good transparency, extension, clarity without irritation, resolution, expression).

Let us know how your A30a performs after you check and ensure that the fan under the amp is connected and turns on.... not trash yet, is it?

 

[Tonton_ZEeD]

Thank you for letting us know that 'This trick work' but it is a little unfortunate, isn't it? Perhaps that is why there is an update to the SPDIF sense in FW v1.12, which implys that Sabaj noticed an improvement was required in this area. It would appear that FW v1.12 was addressing a Jitter issue or DSP Analytic issue or both, what do you sense/think? If it is a Jitter issue then they could be Dither settings/improvements, couldn't they?, which tends to imply that it is a clock/timeing issue, doesn't it? but perhaps it is completely a DSP Analytic issue although it could be both, couldn't it?

Still the A30a is a very (very) nicely performing (digital like the Devialet and thanks to the Axign AX5689 chip) integrated power amplifyer, isn't it? My experience is now.... definitely fabulous Bass (tight, extended, full, good weight, speed/impact), very good Midrange (fullness, good weight, resolution, expression), and the Highs are now now nicely resolved (good transparency, extension, clarity without irritation, resolution, expression).

Let us know how your A30a performs after you check and ensure that the fan under the amp is connected and turns on.... not trash yet, is it?

I change the spdif sense to 5, i was on 1 then 3 because 192kHZ didn't play.

The amp sound great that a fact, i bought for the sub management and loving it since. The first firmware was a mess, only the right channel was routed to the sub out lol but sabaj quickly did a firmware update.

 

[KL....]

Some, after some testing with my repaste work done, the problem of muffled sound after a while was not resolved.

I repaste it again, same thing !

I was desperate, even with a 200mm blowing some air on the bottom of the sabaj, random muffled sound appaer at some time. It's not hot at my home, 17C.

I have caught a new thing, before the sound go muffled, the sabaj loses connection for 2 second then reconnects with a muffled sound. So I changed the connection.

I tried coaxial and Toslink cables, same result, then USB, and still the same.

Today, I decided to reflash the latest firmware, version 1.12. I was already using version 1.12, maybe that will solve my problem, fingers crossed.

Edit: after reflashing the firmware, same result :/

I'm going to trash this pile of .... :/

@Tonton_ZEeD, I do not think that the 200mm fan blowing some air at the bottom of the Sabaj A30a will work that well, why? because the internal fan blows out through the hole in the bottom. If you have the 200mm fan blowing some air from the side or back so that the air is blown away from the hole in the bottom that should work better. Also, for consideration, since you have taken the Lid off, you could drill a couple of (small) holes near the corners of the lid panel or in the side panel/s to allow air to flow in and out :=)

To ask, what is the minimum impedance of the Speakers that you are using and at what frequency/s is the minimum impedance occuring?

 

[Tonton_ZEeD]

@Tonton_ZEeD, I do not think that the 200mm fan blowing some air at the bottom of the Sabaj A30a will work that well, why? because the internal fan blows out through the hole in the bottom. If you have the 200mm fan blowing some air from the side or back so that the air is blown away from the hole in the bottom that should work better. Also, for consideration, since you have taken the Lid off, you could drill a couple of (small) holes near the corners of the lid panel or in the side panel/s to allow air to flow in and out :=)

To ask, what is the minimum impedance of the Speakers that you are using and at what frequency/s is the minimum impedance occuring?

The FETs are in contact with the bottom lid with thermalpaste to cool them, the power supply is in contact with the upper lid with a thermalpad to cool it. The amp is cool to the touch.

I apply another 200mm fan blowing on the bottom of my aune headphone amp, without it it's 58c with it it's 44c. the aune have a internal temperture sensor in it.

I'm pretty sure that's not a thermal issue. maybe the input board is damaged or my PC have a issue.

 

[Roland68]

Something doesn't quite add up. The A-S501 has, per the usually conservative Yamaha specifications, the same maximum power as the A30a -if we go by the VMV-A2 measurements on ASR, which is also maximum power, -so there's no real indication that the Yamaha wouldn't be able to "keep up" with the A30a..
Could be classic expectations playing tricks?

@Old_School_Brad
No, expectations don't play a role for us, as no one knows which device is running during our tests. Even the volume levels are meticulously adjusted with a multimeter.

Yamaha specifications:
A-S1000 Max. Output Power (4 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.7% THD, for Europe) 160 W + 160 W, but with a significantly more powerful transformer and almost three times the capacitor bank.
A-S701 Max. Output Power (4 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.7% THD, for Europe) 160 W + 160 W
A-S501 Max. Output Power (4 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.7% THD, for Europe) 120 W + 120 W

ASR Tests
VMV A2/A30a Max. Power according to ASR test at 4 ohms: 203 watts
A-S701 Max. Power according to ASR test at 4 ohms: 183 watts.
Notice anything?
Things might look different at 8 ohms, but we had the DBR62 with approximately 6 ohms and a 4 ohm speaker.

The A-S501 has only two transistors per channel, whereas the A-S701 has four. Other components have also been cut back, which is completely normal and legitimate.
The biggest saving on the A-S501 is the smaller transformer, which is almost 1 kg lighter and therefore significantly less powerful.
Realistically, the power equivalent to the ASR measurement should be around 140 watts, but this could be limited by the transformer.
In addition, the power consumption below the A-S701 seems to increase more at higher power levels.

 

[Tonton_ZEeD]

The FETs are in contact with the bottom lid with thermalpaste to cool them, the power supply is in contact with the upper lid with a thermalpad to cool it. The amp is cool to the touch.

I apply another 200mm fan blowing on the bottom of my aune headphone amp, without it it's 58c with it it's 44c. the aune have a internal temperture sensor in it.

I'm pretty sure that's not a thermal issue. maybe the input board is damaged or my PC have a issue.

I have done a clean installation of W11, the first evening it was great, didn't need to cool at all the amp he was warm to the touch. Flawless.
The next evening, i've installed few apps like peace and Epo and the amp restart to have the same issue. 2nd clean install of W11 without additional apps, same issue.

I'm tired of looking for a solution, if anyone have a idea ;D

To ask, what is the minimum impedance of the Speakers that you are using and at what frequency/s is the minimum impedance occuring?

The inital impedance of my speakers is 8 ohms, i didn't find the minimun inpedance. I could try 2 other pairs this evening.

 

[Roland68]

I have done a clean installation of W11, the first evening it was great, didn't need to cool at all the amp he was warm to the touch. Flawless.
The next evening, i've installed few apps like peace and Epo and the amp restart to have the same issue. 2nd clean install of W11 without additional apps, same issue.

I'm tired of looking for a solution, if anyone have a idea ;D


The inital impedance of my speakers is 8 ohms, i didn't find the minimun inpedance. I could try 2 other pairs this evening.

I'd be happy to help you narrow down the problem.
But that only makes sense to me if we proceed logically and structured.
It's also very strange that the problem is sometimes there and sometimes not.

This particular type of Class D amplifier is particularly sensitive to three things:
- Speakers whose impedance drops to zero ohms at certain frequencies, well above the audible range.
- Signals outside the audible range in the music signal.
- Exceptional interference in the power supply that isn't adequately filtered by the switching power supply.

If you want to tackle the problem again, I'll take another look at the thread.

As a first test, I would suggest connecting a standalone device, such as a CD player, record player, or even a television, to the analog input and disconnecting all other connections, especially USB.

 

[KL....]

@Roland68, thank you, your assistance for @Tonton_ZEeD is appreciated :=)

The initial impedance of my speakers is 8 ohms, i didn't find the minimum impedance. I could try 2 other pairs this evening.

@Tonton_ZEeD, yes, nominal impedance is often indicated as 8 ohms but this is an example of minimum impedance.... a friends pair of speakers indicate a nominal impedance of 8 ohms but when I looked at the specification sheet it indicated a minimum impedance of 3.1 ohms but did not indicate where the minimum impedance/s occur. This surprised me that the speaker maker would actually indicate a nominal impedance of 8 ohms because 3.1 ohms is a difficult speaker impedance for many amplifyers to drive without becomeing hot or over heating or may even damage an amplifyer. This should be indicated on the speaker but it was not indicated.

Your idea is good to try your 2 other pairs of speakers. Let us know how the other speakers go and also how @Roland68 suggestion/s go :=)

 

[Tonton_ZEeD]

Thanks for your support !

 

[Kiko]

Hello friends! Could you please suggest what is the best way to connect WiiM Ultra to our Sabaj A30a? Coaxial RCA cable, or Optical Cable, or via USB output from WiiM? Is there any differencies in sound for each method? Also I read about interesting method - using USB output of WiiM to USB input of SMSL PO100 2024 (it is USB to Coaxial/Optical converter based on XMOS XU316) and then use output of this SMSL PO100 2024 via COAX or OPTICAL output to input of external DAC or our Sabaj
They say that this method works to improve soud quality as WiiM digital output is not as good as this SMSL PO100 2024 used here as a reclocker
Is there any reason for this method?

Now my sabaj connected to PC (with windows) via USB cable, but I want to add WiiM ULtra to my system and don't know which method to choose and what cable should I purchase

 

[Roland68]

Hello friends! Could you please suggest what is the best way to connect WiiM Ultra to our Sabaj A30a? Coaxial RCA cable, or Optical Cable, or via USB output from WiiM? Is there any differencies in sound for each method? Also I read about interesting method - using USB output of WiiM to USB input of SMSL PO100 2024 (it is USB to Coaxial/Optical converter based on XMOS XU316) and then use output of this SMSL PO100 2024 via COAX or OPTICAL output to input of external DAC or our Sabaj
They say that this method works to improve soud quality as WiiM digital output is not as good as this SMSL PO100 2024 used here as a reclocker
Is there any reason for this method?

Now my sabaj connected to PC (with windows) via USB cable, but I want to add WiiM ULtra to my system and don't know which method to choose and what cable should I purchase

You should connect the Sabaj digitally to the WiiM Ultra, but whether SPDIF (coax/Toslink) or USB doesn't matter. I would prefer USB or coax.

It makes absolutely no sense to add another device in between, that's something for fairy tale time.
By the way, I own two A30as, as well as the PO100, PO100 Pro, and AK, so I know what I'm talking about.

 

[Kiko]

You should connect the Sabaj digitally to the WiiM Ultra, but whether SPDIF (coax/Toslink) or USB doesn't matter. I would prefer USB or coax.

It makes absolutely no sense to add another device in between, that's something for fairy tale time.
By the way, I own two A30as, as well as the PO100, PO100 Pro, and AK, so I know what I'm talking about.

Thank you much for reply! I will use wiim COAX output then as COAX cables a bit cheaper than optical, and USB input will stay for PC connection

A bit offtop but could you please suggest - is any way to connect this trio - WiiM Ultra and Sabaj and PC together - so to use WiiM Ultra's Room Corretion feature for PC output to Sabaj?
I mean I watch movies from PC connected via HDMI cable to Projector (using Pot Player) and sound goes via USB to Sabaj.

Is it somehow possible to pass sound form PC to Sabaj through WiiM Ultra to use it's room correction and EQ features?

My current easy variant - is to connect PC to Sabaj via USB (for movies) and connect WiiM to Sabaj via COAX/OPTIC (for music) - and change inputs in Sabaj setting when needed. But in this scenario I can't use WiiM room correction feature for watching movies from PC.

 

[Roland68]

Thank you much for reply! I will use wiim COAX output then as COAX cables a bit cheaper than optical, and USB input will stay for PC connection

A bit offtop but could you please suggest - is any way to connect this trio - WiiM Ultra and Sabaj and PC together - so to use WiiM Ultra's Room Corretion feature for PC output to Sabaj?
I mean I watch movies from PC connected via HDMI cable to Projector (using Pot Player) and sound goes via USB to Sabaj.

Is it somehow possible to pass sound form PC to Sabaj through WiiM Ultra to use it's room correction and EQ features?

My current easy variant - is to connect PC to Sabaj via USB (for movies) and connect WiiM to Sabaj via COAX/OPTIC (for music) - and change inputs in Sabaj setting when needed. But in this scenario I can't use WiiM room correction feature for watching movies from PC.

PC with USB to WiiM and WiiM with Coax to Sabaj A30a should solve all your problems.

 

[douede]

Hello friends! Could you please suggest what is the best way to connect WiiM Ultra to our Sabaj A30a? Coaxial RCA cable, or Optical Cable, or via USB output from WiiM? Is there any differencies in sound for each method? Also I read about interesting method - using USB output of WiiM to USB input of SMSL PO100 2024 (it is USB to Coaxial/Optical converter based on XMOS XU316) and then use output of this SMSL PO100 2024 via COAX or OPTICAL output to input of external DAC or our Sabaj
They say that this method works to improve soud quality as WiiM digital output is not as good as this SMSL PO100 2024 used here as a reclocker
Is there any reason for this method?

Now my sabaj connected to PC (with windows) via USB cable, but I want to add WiiM ULtra to my system and don't know which method to choose and what cable should I purchase

"shortest" high resolution digital path... :

 

[Kiko]

PC with USB to WiiM and WiiM with Coax to Sabaj A30a should solve all your problems.

That will be great if it works this way, I'll try it!

"shortest" high resolution digital path... :

Thank you all much for support!