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Sabaj A30a announced

voodooless said:
110v 10A will do 1100W. Michael more than the amp needs. The 240V version would need about half of that to deliver the same amount of power safely. Given that the amp delivers way less power, I would say that any cord will be able to deliver enough power to the amp.
Click to expand...
So your saying that the original cable that came with the amp will do sufficiently? But also if I bought one with a UK plug that's 240v 13amp will do the same?
 
ErkyPerky said:
I would like to change the American power cord/plug that was sent to me from sabaj (I live in the United Kingdom). It is rated at 110v 10amp. Obviously the rated voltage here in the uk is 240v, but do I buy one with a 10 amp or 13 amp, as that's what most kettle cables come with.
Click to expand...
The power cord is rated at 110v 10amp but the power supply is designed for USA/UK/EU/Japan/China/etc (100-240v), as shown.
Simply purchase a UK/IEC power cord of your choice or contact hifi express so they can ship to you their supplied UK/IEC power cord.

1741853771306.png
 
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I was surprised hifiexprss didn't ship me a UK power cord even though my address showed I was from UK. But it's not a big problem at all as I can buy one from Amazon.
 
ErkyPerky said:
I was surprised hifiexprss didn't ship me a UK power cord even though my address showed I was from UK. But it's not a big problem at all as I can buy one from Amazon.
Click to expand...
I would still contact hifiexprss to inform them of this issue/error and let us know of their reply/advice :=)
 
Hello everyone,

I've been having a recurring problem with my A30A for several weeks.

Suddenly, the sound is muffled. After restarting it, it's fine for a few minutes.

If I let it cool down, it's fine. I think my amp is overheating; the fan may be faulty.
 
Tonton_ZEeD said:
Hello everyone,

I've been having a recurring problem with my A30A for several weeks.

Suddenly, the sound is muffled. After restarting it, it's fine for a few minutes.

If I let it cool down, it's fine. I think my amp is overheating; the fan may be faulty.
Click to expand...
This probably has nothing to do with the fan.
A friend of mine had a similar problem with an A30a.
The distance between the two transistors and the base plate was too small, and the thermal paste was too thin. This meant that the heat conduction to the case was poor.

If you want to open it, please see post #1,087.
 
Roland68 said:
This probably has nothing to do with the fan.
A friend of mine had a similar problem with an A30a.
The distance between the two transistors and the base plate was too small, and the thermal paste was too thin. This meant that the heat conduction to the case was poor.

If you want to open it, please see post #1,087.
Click to expand...
Thank

I'm not sure I can open it myself. I'd decided to move all my music things from my desk to a shelf. For now, I'm going to drill a hole in one of the shelves and blow air from below the sabaj with a 200mm fan.

that should do the work.
 
Tonton_ZEeD said:
Thank

I'm not sure I can open it myself. I'd decided to move all my music things from my desk to a shelf. For now, I'm going to drill a hole in one of the shelves and blow air from below the sabaj with a 200mm fan.

that should do the work.
Click to expand...
Have you had this problem since you put the A30a on the shelf? And never before?

There's an area on the bottom that should be hotter than the rest of the case. It's located across the speaker terminals, about 7 cm from the rear edge of the case. This area should be noticeably warmer during operation.
 
Roland68 said:
Have you had this problem since you put the A30a on the shelf? And never before?

There's an area on the bottom that should be hotter than the rest of the case. It's located across the speaker terminals, about 7 cm from the rear edge of the case. This area should be noticeably warmer during operation.
Click to expand...
It's on my desk, the rear have acces to free air. The rear of the amps is on the mesh part of my desk.
here is my desk
www.ikea.com

UTESPELARE Bureau gamer, noir, 160x80 cm - IKEA

UTESPELARE Bureau gamer, noir, 160x80 cm Réglez le bureau gamer UTESPELARE à la hauteur qui vous convient le mieux. La partie en grillage sur le dessus du plateau permet à l'air de circuler et donc de mieux refroidir votre ordinateur. Peut être facilement associé à la chaise de gaming UTESPELARE.
www.ikea.com www.ikea.com

It has been fine for 2 years, the thermal interface inside has degraded i think.

My plan is to move all my music gear from my desk from a bookshelve.


and make a hole to cool the bottom of the sabaj with a 200mm fan, I could add two fan to the side if necessary

I just tried to open the sabaj, 5 minutes ago, i don't the tools to do it for now.

i will reach to some of my friend to help me opening it :)
 
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So hifiexprss hasn't got back to me in over a week regarding the wrong cable they supplied, but I've found one lying around from my other amplifiers I had. I'm also having an issue with this amplifier after 2 months. When I have my iPad connected to the amp via usb, sometimes I get white noise either from the left channel or right channel of my speakers, so I have to unplug the cable from my iPad and reconnect, then everything is fine. It doesn't really bother me much but if there is a faulty, should I be concerned. There is also a second issue I have, which when music is playing via apple music on the iPad with usb, every so often the music will stop for a few seconds then resume. I will connect my Android phone and see if that also does it and report back.
 
Roland68 said:
Have you had this problem since you put the A30a on the shelf? And never before?

There's an area on the bottom that should be hotter than the rest of the case. It's located across the speaker terminals, about 7 cm from the rear edge of the case. This area should be noticeably warmer during operation.
Click to expand...
Repaste done ! thank for the instruction, those damn screws of the top plate you need to access through the bottom plate, not practical at all.

Torture test tonight, it's 18:00 here in france :)
 
Tonton_ZEeD said:
Repaste done ! thank for the instruction, those damn screws of the top plate you need to access through the bottom plate, not practical at all.

Torture test tonight, it's 18:00 here in france :)
Click to expand...
With pleasure.
But with a little practice and the right tools, it's no problem.
The advantages are a very stable and durable housing design made entirely of aluminum, with no visible screws on the front, top, or sides. Most importantly, no massive milling work is required, which is very sustainable. SMSL's VMV A2 is milled from a single block of aluminum.
 
Roland68 said:
With pleasure.
But with a little practice and the right tools, it's no problem.
The advantages are a very stable and durable housing design made entirely of aluminum, with no visible screws on the front, top, or sides. Most importantly, no massive milling work is required, which is very sustainable. SMSL's VMV A2 is milled from a single block of aluminum.
Click to expand...
Aluminium is great for cooling, but i'm a fonction over form type of person, so those damn screws killed my innerself :D. I'll mod my bookshelf to actively cool my amplifiers, my other one, a Aune S17, is pure classe A, it run hot :D
 
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Tonton_ZEeD said:
Aluminium is great for cooling, but i'm a fonction over form type of person, so those damn screws killed my innerself :D. I'll mod my bookshelf to actively cool my amplifiers, my other one, a Aune S17, is pure classe A, it run hot :D
Click to expand...
@Tonton_ZEeD, perhaps, first, consider simply raising the A30a (by say 1-5cms, under the feet/each foot) which will improve the air flow under the A30a and improve heat dissipation in that (affected) area. This what I have done and, so far, have not noticed it to be any warmer (maybe a little but not really noticeable) than other areas on the bottom/base of the A30a. If you try this, let us know of your experience :=)
 
ErkyPerky said:
So hifiexprss hasn't got back to me in over a week regarding the wrong cable they supplied, but I've found one lying around from my other amplifiers I had. I'm also having an issue with this amplifier after 2 months. 1) When I have my iPad connected to the amp via usb, sometimes I get white noise either from the left channel or right channel of my speakers, so I have to unplug the cable from my iPad and reconnect, then everything is fine. It doesn't really bother me much but if there is a faulty, should I be concerned. 2) There is also a second issue I have, which when music is playing via apple music on the iPad with usb, every so often the music will stop for a few seconds then resume. I will connect my Android phone and see if that also does it and report back.
Click to expand...
@ErkyPerky, I have noticed/observed that the A30a seems like it prefers to ask the feeding device to connect to it (in my case, via SPDIF, the DVD player). What this means is.... I place the A30a in Standby (via the remotes Power button), turn on the DVD player, wait for the DVD player to say 'no connection', then turn on the A30a via the remotes Power button, the A30a then indicates the connection in the view panel. This only an observation (so may not be relevant) but perhaps you could try this, that is... place the A30a in Standby, connect/turn on your iPad, wait for the iPad to say 'no connection', then turn on the A30a via the remotes Power button, the A30a then indicates the connection in the view panel. Note that this may not be relevant and is only an observation but you are welcome to try this and if you try this, let us know of your experience :=)

1) Do you use the supplyed USB cable? If no, how long is the USB cable that you use?
2) It could be an issue between your Streamer and iPad (I am assumeing the connection is Wireless), although it could also be that the A30a looses it connection, or encounters a connection issue, with the iPad or visa versa (refer to point 1), couldn't it?
 
KL.... said:
@Tonton_ZEeD, perhaps, first, consider simply raising the A30a (by say 1-5cms, under the feet/each foot) which will improve the air flow under the A30a and improve heat dissipation in that (affected) area. This what I have done and, so far, have not noticed it to be any warmer (maybe a little but not really noticeable) than other areas on the bottom/base of the A30a. If you try this, let us know of your experience :=)
Click to expand...
I already rise it by 100mm

The thermal paste was very poor quality and amp is on the part of my desk which is a metal plate with holes.

Here a picture from a review on youtube :)

ibb.co

desk hosted at ImgBB

Image desk hosted in ImgBB
ibb.co ibb.co
 
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KL.... said:
@ErkyPerky, I have noticed/observed that the A30a seems like it prefers to ask the feeding device to connect to it (in my case, via SPDIF, the DVD player). What this means is.... I place the A30a in Standby (via the remotes Power button), turn on the DVD player, wait for the DVD player to say 'no connection', then turn on the A30a via the remotes Power button, the A30a then indicates the connection in the view panel. This only an observation (so may not be relevant) but perhaps you could try this, that is... place the A30a in Standby, connect/turn on your iPad, wait for the iPad to say 'no connection', then turn on the A30a via the remotes Power button, the A30a then indicates the connection in the view panel. Note that this may not be relevant and is only an observation but you are welcome to try this and if you try this, let us know of your experience :=)

1) Do you use the supplyed USB cable? If no, how long is the USB cable that you use?
2) It could be an issue between your Streamer and iPad (I am assumeing the connection is Wireless), although it could also be that the A30a looses it connection, or encounters a connection issue, with the iPad or visa versa (refer to point 1), couldn't it?
Click to expand...

KL.... said:
@ErkyPerky, I have noticed/observed that the A30a seems like it prefers to ask the feeding device to connect to it (in my case, via SPDIF, the DVD player). What this means is.... I place the A30a in Standby (via the remotes Power button), turn on the DVD player, wait for the DVD player to say 'no connection', then turn on the A30a via the remotes Power button, the A30a then indicates the connection in the view panel. This only an observation (so may not be relevant) but perhaps you could try this, that is... place the A30a in Standby, connect/turn on your iPad, wait for the iPad to say 'no connection', then turn on the A30a via the remotes Power button, the A30a then indicates the connection in the view panel. Note that this may not be relevant and is only an observation but you are welcome to try this and if you try this, let us know of your experience :=)

1) Do you use the supplyed USB cable? If no, how long is the USB cable that you use?
2) It could be an issue between your Streamer and iPad (I am assumeing the connection is Wireless), although it could also be that the A30a looses it connection, or encounters a connection issue, with the iPad or visa versa (refer to point 1), couldn't it?
Click to expand...
I'm using a 1.5m QED usb b to usb a and the usb b is connected to a adapter which has a male usb c. And the usb a end has a generic camera adapter that plugs in the iPad. So I'm guessing this camera adapter or the usb b adapter is causing the issue, so I will try out the provided usb cable of the A30a and connect it straight from the amp to my android tablet and see if the problem persists.
 
ErkyPerky said:
I'm using a 1.5m QED usb b to usb a and the usb b is connected to a adapter which has a male usb c. And the usb a end has a generic camera adapter that plugs in the iPad. So I'm guessing this camera adapter or the usb b adapter is causing the issue, so I will try out the provided usb cable of the A30a and connect it straight from the amp to my android tablet and see if the problem persists.
Click to expand...
Is this an original QED cable or one from Aliexpress?
Is the camera adapter a genuine Apple product?
I'm also skeptical about a three-part cable. Combined with the 1.5-meter length of the USB cable, this could be a problem.

If you want to buy a suitable USB 2.0 cable, I recommend the LINDY USB 2.0 Type C to A Cable, Anthra Line, but it's only available in 1 or 2 meters.

Please let me know when you've tested the A30a cable.
 
Roland68 said:
Is this an original QED cable or one from Aliexpress?
Is the camera adapter a genuine Apple product?
I'm also skeptical about a three-part cable. Combined with the 1.5-meter length of the USB cable, this could be a problem.

If you want to buy a suitable USB 2.0 cable, I recommend the LINDY USB 2.0 Type C to A Cable, Anthra Line, but it's only available in 1 or 2 meters.

Please let me know when you've tested the A30a cable.
Click to expand...
It's a genuine qed cable I bought from futureshops here in the UK. And yes I will let you know when I've tested the cable. Many thanks.
 
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