Sabaj A30a announced

[GiBo61]

following your advice I just connected a30a at this moment, I managed to start it, so I deactivated the subwoofer option, in fact it really works much better than yesterday, I still don't know why it turned off yesterday. concerning the power yes it really gives enough power, I'm going to take advantage of it today to see what it gives

Maybe you were playing It too loud and It went into protection mode?

 

[GiBo61]

That's a real shame.

Have you checked the subwoofer settings?
Most A30a models are set to on when they are delivered and have a cut-off frequency of 70 Hz, which of course gives the impression of little bass. This is also the case after firmware updates.
For me, the A30a is the amplifier with the strongest and very clean bass, even in comparison to the Yamaha A-S 1xxx/2xxx/3xxx and the NAD 2200 power amplifier. With the Sabaj, I even get into trouble with my neighbor for certain songs.

Please leave the Sabaj switched on (rear switch) without the power cable for a few minutes and then press the rotary knob at the front 2-3 times. Then switch it off again at the back and plug in the power cable.
Can it be switched on again after that?

Roland68, about 3 years ago I could see and touch a Yamaha A-S1200 amplifier. Since then I have fallen in love with it and, despite the high price, I promised myself that one day I would treat myself to one. Then the Sabaj A30a arrived and I rationally understood that for less than €500 I could have the same performance (indeed, probably better) than a high-end Yamaha costing many times more. However, I'm still fascinated by the beauty of a Yamaha A-S1200 or 2200, the minimalist design, the finishes, the weight, the quality of the components and internal circuits. Since in your last post you talked about a comparison between Sabaj and Yamaha, could you tell me something more regarding your experience of use and listening?

 

[Ludodo57]

the amplifier had problems again, so I will send it back tomorrow and retest with the other a30a. but while it worked normally I found a 30a great, after several hours of listening I think it is a little better than the parasound hint 6, I had the impression that the musical instruments lasted longer. the difference is minimal, but it may be just an impression, I found that a30a heated a lot the amplifier was hot. I hope the next a30a works perfectly

 

[Ludodo57]

,it cut the amplifier at level 30, I waited another hour, and I tried again at very low volume level 10,

 

[Roland68]

Roland68, about 3 years ago I could see and touch a Yamaha A-S1200 amplifier. Since then I have fallen in love with it and, despite the high price, I promised myself that one day I would treat myself to one. Then the Sabaj A30a arrived and I rationally understood that for less than €500 I could have the same performance (indeed, probably better) than a high-end Yamaha costing many times more. However, I'm still fascinated by the beauty of a Yamaha A-S1200 or 2200, the minimalist design, the finishes, the weight, the quality of the components and internal circuits. Since in your last post you talked about a comparison between Sabaj and Yamaha, could you tell me something more regarding your experience of use and listening?

I can understand you completely, but my answer won't really help you and might even send you deeper down the rabbit hole
The A30a has an incredibly good resolution and, when the subwoofer/CUT OFF is switched off, has an incredibly deep and clean bass. Based on my experience with real instruments, recordings and live music, I would say that it is very neutral and reproduces the music faithfully to the original, i.e. true to the original meaning of audiophile.

However, at the moment I listen most of the time with a refurbished A-S 1000 and an A-S 2200. Jazz, classical, blues, hip hop in particular, but also preferred good pop and rock pieces and female voices, are a little embellished. But I'm talking more about nuances here and it also depends on the rest of the system and especially the speakers.
The amplifiers are not that different, even in terms of performance, but a proper comparison with the Sabaj and other amplifiers is still pending. But I don't know if we'll manage it this year.

The A-S1xxx - 3xxx are all very similar in terms of sound and performance, so it should be enough if you listen to one from the series and compare it with the A30a, preferably on your speakers. A-S 1000 can be bought used for as little as €500, A-S 2000/2100 sometimes for €800-1000. I've already seen A-S 2000 / CD-S 2000 combos for €1200 and A-S 2100 / CD-S 2100 combos for €1500.
But maybe you don't like that any better than the A30a. And the A30a is not only a very good amplifier under €1000, but also serious competition in higher price ranges.

 

[Roland68]

the amplifier had problems again, so I will send it back tomorrow and retest with the other a30a. but while it worked normally I found a 30a great, after several hours of listening I think it is a little better than the parasound hint 6, I had the impression that the musical instruments lasted longer. the difference is minimal, but it may be just an impression, I found that a30a heated a lot the amplifier was hot. I hope the next a30a works perfectly

If the A30a starts causing problems more often, I would definitely replace it.
It shouldn't cause any problems, especially not at 30, as I've already run it at much higher values at 4 ohms. Probably too little thermal paste on the two power transistors or not good contact with the housing.

 

[GiBo61]

I can understand you completely, but my answer won't really help you and might even send you deeper down the rabbit hole
The A30a has an incredibly good resolution and, when the subwoofer/CUT OFF is switched off, has an incredibly deep and clean bass. Based on my experience with real instruments, recordings and live music, I would say that it is very neutral and reproduces the music faithfully to the original, i.e. true to the original meaning of audiophile.

However, at the moment I listen most of the time with a refurbished A-S 1000 and an A-S 2200. Jazz, classical, blues, hip hop in particular, but also preferred good pop and rock pieces and female voices, are a little embellished. But I'm talking more about nuances here and it also depends on the rest of the system and especially the speakers.
The amplifiers are not that different, even in terms of performance, but a proper comparison with the Sabaj and other amplifiers is still pending. But I don't know if we'll manage it this year.

The A-S1xxx - 3xxx are all very similar in terms of sound and performance, so it should be enough if you listen to one from the series and compare it with the A30a, preferably on your speakers. A-S 1000 can be bought used for as little as €500, A-S 2000/2100 sometimes for €800-1000. I've already seen A-S 2000 / CD-S 2000 combos for €1200 and A-S 2100 / CD-S 2100 combos for €1500.
But maybe you don't like that any better than the A30a. And the A30a is not only a very good amplifier under €1000, but also serious competition in higher price ranges.

Thanks Roland68 for your reply, it's more or less what I expected. Sooner or later I will probably get a Yamaha A-S1200 or 2200, aware that the improvement in sound quality will be more subjective than objective. I also don't trust taking it used. Less than two years ago I purchased a Rotel AV amplifier from a dear friend for a reasonable (but not modest) sum and after a few weeks it had problems with the right channel. After an expensive repair (which required the 24 kg box to be transported to the shop three times before it was successful), shortly after the 3 month warranty given by the repairer expired, the Rotel stopped working completely and is now lying in the basement to gather dust. So if I want the Yamaha I have to budget for at least €1800 for a new A-S1200.

 

[Roland68]

Thanks Roland68 for your reply, it's more or less what I expected. Sooner or later I will probably get a Yamaha A-S1200 or 2200, aware that the improvement in sound quality will be more subjective than objective. I also don't trust taking it used. Less than two years ago I purchased a Rotel AV amplifier from a dear friend for a reasonable (but not modest) sum and after a few weeks it had problems with the right channel. After an expensive repair (which required the 24 kg box to be transported to the shop three times before it was successful), shortly after the 3 month warranty given by the repairer expired, the Rotel stopped working completely and is now lying in the basement to gather dust. So if I want the Yamaha I have to budget for at least €1800 for a new A-S1200.

I can reassure you about the Yamahas. Rotel builds good devices, but they do break down from time to time, especially the AV amplifiers. May I ask which model it is?
Defects are really rare with all the A-S 1-3xxx, they are tanks, even in terms of the electronics.

But I can also understand if you want to buy a new device like this. The 2200 is sometimes not much more expensive than the 1200 when it is on sale or when it is demonstrated by a dealer.

 

[Ludodo57]

Hello, I received a new A30A on Wednesday. The defective A30A has just been returned to Amazon.

 

[GiBo61]

I can reassure you about the Yamahas. Rotel builds good devices, but they do break down from time to time, especially the AV amplifiers. May I ask which model it is?
Defects are really rare with all the A-S 1-3xxx, they are tanks, even in terms of the electronics.

But I can also understand if you want to buy a new device like this. The 2200 is sometimes not much more expensive than the 1200 when it is on sale or when it is demonstrated by a dealer.

My Rotel is (was...) a RSX 1067, see also my post below...
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/sabaj-a30a-announced.35714/post-1938690

 

[Querulo]

the amplifier had problems again, so I will send it back tomorrow and retest with the other a30a. but while it worked normally I found a 30a great, after several hours of listening I think it is a little better than the parasound hint 6, I had the impression that the musical instruments lasted longer. the difference is minimal, but it may be just an impression, I found that a30a heated a lot the amplifier was hot. I hope the next a30a works perfectly

Heat is the only factor that's concerning me, not for the temperature itself (it's very warm but I can touch it without hurt) but because it stays always the same even when not in use, like a class-A but without all the bulk and construction of old school ginormous amps.
That said, I love how it sounds but I force myself to switch it off after every use because it's a waste of energy (and it costs) and I fear that constant heat could damage the internals and leave me with a 500$ doorstop.
It's sad because my old icepower 200 was never switched off in 2 years, always ready and connected to a Chromecast audio, fast and reliable whenever I felt the urge to listen to some music or podcast, always cool to the touch.

 

[GiBo61]

Heat is the only factor that's concerning me, not for the temperature itself (it's very warm but I can touch it without hurt) but because it stays always the same even when not in use, like a class-A but without all the bulk and construction of old school ginormous amps.
That said, I love how it sounds but I force myself to switch it off after every use because it's a waste of energy (and it costs) and I fear that constant heat could damage the internals and leave me with a 500$ doorstop.
It's sad because my old icepower 200 was never switched off in 2 years, always ready and connected to a Chromecast audio, fast and reliable whenever I felt the urge to listen to some music or podcast, always cool to the touch.

When not in use my Sabaj A30a Is at room temperature. It becones warm only at medium-high volume. After I finish to play music I just switch It off using the remote control. Only when I leave for a vacation of a few days I turni It off using the mechanical switch on the back.

 

[Querulo]

When not in use my Sabaj A30a Is at room temperature. It becones warm only at medium-high volume. After I finish to play music I just switch It off using the remote control. Only when I leave for a vacation of a few days I turni It off using the mechanical switch on the back.

I don't know, my Sabaj is always the same temperature when switched on, either in use or not, (it's in a close cabinet, with some free space around). I never measured heat but I can put my hand on it and stay as I want, feeling as much as 40-45 degrees C (I guess over 100-110 in Fahrenheit, a normal day in Tucson AZ, aha).

Lately I saw a jump in electric prices in my bill so I reversed to my trusty icepower monoblocks connected to WIIM pro plus in preamp mode, obviously the sound quality is not the same but they're always cool even after hours of use, let's see if next bill will show the difference.

Meanwhile, Sabaj will be promoted from office space to the living room since home theatre is almost never used and I never liked bulky surround systems anyway.

 

[GiBo61]

I don't know, my Sabaj is always the same temperature when switched on, either in use or not, (it's in a close cabinet, with some free space around). I never measured heat but I can put my hand on it and stay as I want, feeling as much as 40-45 degrees C (I guess over 100-110 in Fahrenheit, a normal day in Tucson AZ, aha).

Lately I saw a jump in electric prices in my bill so I reversed to my trusty icepower monoblocks connected to WIIM pro plus in preamp mode, obviously the sound quality is not the same but they're always cool even after hours of use, let's see if next bill will show the difference.

Meanwhile, Sabaj will be promoted from office space to the living room since home theatre is almost never used and I never liked bulky surround systems anyway.

Just to clarify: when not in use the display should be completely off (no numbers, letters, just nothing). In that situation the temperature of the device is the same as the temperature of the room.

 

[Querulo]

Just to clarify: when not in use the display should be completely off (no numbers, letters, just nothing). In that situation the temperature of the device is the same as the temperature of the room.

display has nothin' to do with heat, this amp could be 1) totally switched off by rear button 2) put in standby with the remote button 3) turned on and idle waiting for input (display could be set as goin' off after a while).

My complaint is that, in the third option, heat from the internal power supply is always the same as when I listen to music for hours, no discernible difference.
Again, pretty warm, not dangerously hot, but surely way warmer than other class D amps I knew, especially compared to my icepower 200as1 monoblocks (nearly same wattage).

 

[GiBo61]

display has nothin' to do with heat, this amp could be 1) totally switched off by rear button 2) put in standby with the remote button 3) turned on and idle waiting for input (display could be set as goin' off after a while).

My complaint is that, in the third option, heat from the internal power supply is always the same as when I listen to music for hours, no discernible difference.
Again, pretty warm, not dangerously hot, but surely way warmer than other class D amps I knew, especially compared to my icepower 200as1 monoblocks (nearly same wattage).

Apparently, power consumption at idle is about 17W. It's not low but in my case is not a problem. If I do not plan to listen to music in the next 5-10 minutes I just put it in standby mode (I do the same when I do not watch a TV program on my TV set). From standby- to ON-mode it takes about 3 seconds.

 

[Roland68]

display has nothin' to do with heat, this amp could be 1) totally switched off by rear button 2) put in standby with the remote button 3) turned on and idle waiting for input (display could be set as goin' off after a while).

My complaint is that, in the third option, heat from the internal power supply is always the same as when I listen to music for hours, no discernible difference.
Again, pretty warm, not dangerously hot, but surely way warmer than other class D amps I knew, especially compared to my icepower 200as1 monoblocks (nearly same wattage).

You are making a big mistake, for several reasons.
- The heat when switched on comes from the transistors and very little from the power supply.
- The A30a is more efficient than most Class D amplifiers. You can see this from the small temperature fluctuations when in operation, even at higher power.
- The difference when switched on and idle between your two Icepower 200as1 monoblocks and the A30a is about 3 watts, maximum 4 watts, no more.
- In standby mode, your two Icepower 200as1 monoblocks consume about 3 times as much as the A30a, namely around 10 watts.
- Your two Icepower 200as1 monoblocks probably have ventilation slots and/or heat sinks, which makes the housings appear cooler than the A30a.
- The A30a is completely closed, without additional heat sinks, and the entire surface of the amp acts as a cooling surface. This is intentional and protects the electronics from unwanted or rapid temperature fluctuations.

It actually makes no sense to leave the A30a switched on when no music is playing. Simply switch it to standby mode using the remote control. I don't switch my A30a off for a short time either, but I do for a few hours.

And to anyone who has the stupid idea of installing any cooling openings on the A30a, DON'T DO IT! A stable operation of an amplifier requires a certain temperature and, above all, without fluctuations due to uncontrolled convection. You can see that the cooling concept of the A30a works very well from the low temperature fluctuations during operation, even at higher power.

 

[ModDIY]

You are making a big mistake, for several reasons.
- The heat when switched on comes from the transistors and very little from the power supply.
- The A30a is more efficient than most Class D amplifiers. You can see this from the small temperature fluctuations when in operation, even at higher power.
- The difference when switched on and idle between your two Icepower 200as1 monoblocks and the A30a is about 3 watts, maximum 4 watts, no more.
- In standby mode, your two Icepower 200as1 monoblocks consume about 3 times as much as the A30a, namely around 10 watts.
- Your two Icepower 200as1 monoblocks probably have ventilation slots and/or heat sinks, which makes the housings appear cooler than the A30a.
- The A30a is completely closed, without additional heat sinks, and the entire surface of the amp acts as a cooling surface. This is intentional and protects the electronics from unwanted or rapid temperature fluctuations.

It actually makes no sense to leave the A30a switched on when no music is playing. Simply switch it to standby mode using the remote control. I don't switch my A30a off for a short time either, but I do for a few hours.

And to anyone who has the stupid idea of installing any cooling openings on the A30a, DON'T DO IT! A stable operation of an amplifier requires a certain temperature and, above all, without fluctuations due to uncontrolled convection. You can see that the cooling concept of the A30a works very well from the low temperature fluctuations during operation, even at higher power.

Your summary of the heat released by the A30a is well detailed and precise. In my case, if I don't listen for a few hours, I put it on standby. At moderate and high volume, the heat released is always the same. Indeed the case serves as a radiator, so we notice the heat more when we touch the box.

 

[dizzzy]

Hello all in this thread,
this is my first post in ASR forum. I have read the whole thread and convinced me to try the Sabaj A30a.

Source is a raspberry pi 5 running KODI. The output of A30a will feed Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1 speakers.

My current setup is:
RPi 5 -> DIY DAC with ESS9023 (with linear supply) -> Passive preamp with Tribute inductive volume control -> Orelle SP-100 (British made rare power amp from 2008) -> AA Sierra-1 (with nrt upgrade) speakers. I am not going to use a subwoofer.

This setup sounds very good, has good resolution and soundstage. What I am missing is higher resolution and more width and depth in the soundstage.
Have tried various DACs and amplifiers (class AB and D). Only my friend's Parasound high-end preamp/poweramp with an Oppo CD player was able to provide a considerable improvement.

So, I ordered the A30a yesterday, in hope that will improve things. If it doesn't, but is comparable to my current system, at least it will fix the clutter in my living room.

Looking forward to receiving the Sabaj. I have bad luck with receiving DOA products. I hope to receive a unit in good working order...

 

[voodooless]

What I am missing is higher resolution and more width and depth in the soundstage.

Different amps or DACs will not change this (unless they are significantly non-transparent).

Better speakers, EQ, and room treatment are the most significant contributors to sound quality. So if you want to make changes start there. Given that the speakers seem to be excellent already, EQ and/or room treatment might be a good bet.