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S.M.S.L DA-9 vs AO200?
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jokan
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The mod only brings out more of the music. Forget about specs, it's a difference that can be clearly heard, a difference that is for the better. It's one of those things that CAN be done, it's not a necessary mod. Though once done, it's hard to imagine why the amp wasn't fitted with the opa1656 in the first place, the difference in cost is so tiny even at retail prices. But I think that it is for one very big reason. If they used the opa1656, then the amp would sound so much better than the other amps they manufacture and sell. They, the manufacturer has no choice but to create perceived value in the simplest of ways. And they certainly do not expect the average consumer to replace 2 tiny op-amps themselves. There's a few additional upgrades that can be done still, namely using Sparkos Labs Pro series discrete op-amps, and the various adaptors to replace the opa1678's. They have a setup that would cost as much as the AO200 just for op-amps and adaptors plus the time to install/solder the adaptors. On the plus side you would be able to use any standard op-amp at that point as you'll have a socketed op-amp at that point. This is where I see the cost/benefit ratio getting thrown out the door. Replacing op-amps however labour intensive it may or maynot be dependent on method vs the cost for discrete op-amps, 4 discrete op-amps since Sparkos makes single channel op-amps for their top of the line. Right now they have either 20, or 30% off going on for their products. Certainly something worth looking into. In today's audio world, so much is dictated by the op-amp being used. They are THE tuning device of the Vacuum tube world. They work in much the same way especially on the front end, or input stage/buffer stage. Whatever comes into the op-amp gets amplified. This simple fact can't be escaped from. The higher sound quality that the op-amp is able to reproduce, the better the amplifier will then sound. There is of course personal preference when it comes to sound. I just like the opa1656. There are plenty of other similarly high performance op-amps that are chip based. Some definitely have stronger bass than the 1656's, but I like the 1656 for their overall balance. And it's a step better than the 1612 which is almost ancient now. With chip production pretty much at a standstill, a lot of companies are making due with what is available in surplus. Hopefully chip production will resume soon. Everything that requires a chip seems to be adversely affected right now.
I'm a anti-OP amp rolling person but I see the productivity in all this. This could be and probably will be a gateway to bigger and better things in the world of electronics for peeps that OP amp roll. It doesn't hurt to learn to manage a soldering iron and to solder/unsolder. Those are very good skills to have. I think that if a person is going to go do something then they might as well do it properly and have some assistance doing it so they can do it better and learn the good stuff. I know that I destroyed a heap of electronics stuff because I was super curious and wanted to experiment and test stuff out. So, I figure go for it. Have fun and learn to solder and learn about OP amps.
You could go wild with one of these:
www.cimarrontechnology.com
Not sure if sparkos would be compatible though.
8-pin DIP to SOIC-8 Adapter - 201202 - BrownDog Adapters
Convert any 8-pin DIP component to an SOIC-8 footprint with the BrownDog 201202 adapter, thick low loss 20 mil traces.
www.cimarrontechnology.com
Not sure if sparkos would be compatible though.
jokan
Addicted to Fun and Learning
That adaptor is cool but probably not as good as the ones that both Burson and Sparkos Labs sell. The reason is the vertical orientation of the op-amp. You will be limited in future upgradability with that adaptor. Also they're a bit on the expensive side compared to both brands especially if you intend on having the most flexibility.You could go wild with one of these:
8-pin DIP to SOIC-8 Adapter - 201202 - BrownDog Adapters
Convert any 8-pin DIP component to an SOIC-8 footprint with the BrownDog 201202 adapter, thick low loss 20 mil traces.
Not sure if sparkos would be compatible though.
All discrete op-amps are NOT created the same. In fact there are quite a few that do not outperform the opa1656. I'm pretty sure that at some point discrete op-amps will become a thing of the past. Also the one kind of big downside to discrete op-amps is the amount of hours that are needed to get them to burn-in. Both Sparkos and Burson ask for days before judging the sound quality of their op-amps. I didn't design them, but that's what both companies say about their products.
Burson sells the adaptors in pair form for the same price as a single adaptor by Sparkos. And right now, Burson is having a sale! Might be worthwhile for anyone interested to purchase the adaptors now while they're on sale! I think it's 30% off!
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Sigh* I would take that recommendation with a grain of salt.
Walter
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Or a few shakers full!Sigh* I would take that recommendation with a grain of salt.
You could go wild with one of these:
Size is much different
jokan
Addicted to Fun and Learning
The physical size is completely different. It will not fit unless you remove the factory psu and run some pigtail wires out to the external power supply. Also you should read the maximum voltage for the chipsets in the AO200.
Yes I saw the measurements :
- 350W : 127* 76.2*25.4 mm
- 225W : 101.6*50.8*25.4 mm
The height is the same but overall the 350w is larger and longer. Because I don't have the unit with me I can't measure if it fits. But I think it would be worth to check
But if it doesn't fit, the answer to the eternel question of "Sabaj A20a or SMSL AO200 ?" would be toward the Sabaj considering the PSU power ? Or do you think, there are other modification to the PCB layout to take into account and that modify the sound quality ?
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my ao200 has arrived. it's good
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jokan
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arkelectron
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I've found a small bug in the AO200 settings. If you set the EQ to SDB, then change the base, it sets the EQ to Tone.
jokan
Addicted to Fun and Learning
That's not a bug. SDB is a factory eq curve for lack of a better term. If you turn on the SDB function under the EQ settings, then adjust the bass or treble, the amp will reset and revert to tone controls. This is intentional. Any further attempts at tone control will automatically override SDB. I personally like SDB with smaller speakers especially when bluetooth is used. But otherwise I use my RME ADI-2 for any and all preamp and eq controls as both the bass and treble centre frequencies and Q are both adjustable in addition to the 5 band parametric eq with adjustable Q. Also left and right channels can be separately adjusted.
It's unfortunate that the owners manual doesn't make this abundantly clear. More than likely this is to prevent clipping or user "abuse" as in cranking up the bass to maximum, using SDB at the same time, and then turning the amplifier up which has a significant chance of damaging your speakers. They are looking out for your best interest. An adjustable SDB with volume would be nice. My RME has a loudness function that decreases as you increase the volume. A feature like that would be nice but this is an inexpensive amplifier. If you want more "control" then you need a better DAC with a better preamp section that has a parametric EQ. Otherwise, if you are running RCA inputs, you can always add an equaliser, though you'll have a difficult time finding one that follows the same form factor as the AO/DO series of products.
Don't worry, it's not a bug. It's just how Aoshida setup the amp. Your device is working normally.
Solder cream and heat gun will be delivered tomorrow. I'm going to do an opamp replacement tomorrow. Is there anything I should pay attention to when disassembling the ao200 amplifier?
Unscrew the front, disconnect the ribbon cables while remembering their orientation. Unscrew the corners and top/middle screws from the back. Slide out. Be sure to get replacement thermal paste and ideally a thermal pad (1mm is fine) to put between the chip back and heat transfer sink. Be sure not to hit components next to the opamp as you remove. Gently lift when it's ready it'll come off like nothing. Be sure on orientation for the new chip. Use flux and tack a corner and the rest of the chip. Put paste on the casing where it'll slide in and the bottom of the heat transfer sink then put it all back together.
jokan
Addicted to Fun and Learning
If this is your first time using both solder cream, and localised heat gun, find an old piece of electronics with surface mount components that you can destroy. That way you can get comfortable with what you're doing. Zero sense in destroying or damaging your amplifier!
Take your time, use caution and protect the small (some components are about 1mm in size and easily damaged). Kapton tape is useful to help protect area's subject to heat. But you should be able to do the job relatively quickly, as in seconds. I recommend a heat clip, glorified alligator clip made of aluminium to hold the original op-amp so you can apply soft easy pressure and you won't lose the op-amp so you can put it back in later on if you so chose.
Just take your time and be careful. Don't stay in one spot for a long period, 2-3 seconds is a safe time, 5-10 seconds is okay too if you are very careful about surrounding components. The more you get used to it, the easier it gets.
Enjoy the "surgery", don't forget to breathe. Use extra lighting and if you need glasses for reading, use them! Remain calm at all times when you're doing the surgery. It isn't rocket science, but it is tedious when you haven't done it before! Some components can handle more heat, some op-amps can handle more heat. It's just how things go. Higher heat ratings do not mean it's better or worse btw.
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