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Rythmik L12 Subwoofer Review

Lowpass on Rythmik subs is defeated by using LE input.

Hmm. I looked at Amir’s image of the plate amp again. Why would they install a compromised XLR input but a useful RCA input? Very puzzling.

Also, the one Erin tested appears to be missing the uncompromised input.
 
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Hmm. I looked at Amir’s image of the plate amp again. Why would they install a compromised XLR input but a useful RCA input? Very puzzling.
What? The sub only has RCA inputs. And I only have XLR running to the test platform so had to use an XLR to RCA adapter. There is not much room in the center column of Klippel to run wires so I am limited to what I have in there now (speaker wire, AC power and XLR).
 
Lowpass on Rythmik subs is defeated by using LE input.
I was a bit blind not noticing the LFE input until I took that picture after the test. :)
 
On doing more tests, yes, I am not looking forward to testing SPL limits and such. Even at the modest levels I tested, everything in the garage was rattling. Fortunately these are near-field measurements so there is no impact on frequency response test. Nor the distortion tests for the same reason.

The nearly 500 measurement over 1 hour was quite annoying in the rest of the house as well.

I will see if I can develop more tests but for now, do people think the frequency response measurements are of no value? Because that is the best use of the measurement system as it produces more accurate results than any other means out there including anechoic chamber.
 
What? The sub only has RCA inputs. And I only have XLR running to the test platform so had to use an XLR to RCA adapter.

Gotcha. That makes sense. Looking more closely I see that XLR barrel looks awfully long.

So my general comments that confederating bass management is a bad idea stand, and the specific comments apply to the sub Erin tested. As for this DUT, the specific comments may or may not apply. Hopefully the owner can shoot a measurement from the LFE input to see if it is more usable than your measurements suggest.

PS I’m in agreement with those who think testing subs is best accomplished with lesser equipment and greater real estate, a la Data-bass or Audioholics. If you have a backlog there’s also the opportunity cost. Given you have a back, there are injury mitigation concerns as well.
 
Unlike the rest of your post, I disagree with this statement. Ideally any drive unit will have flattish and smooth response above and below its passband. A subwoofer should be flat smooth and clean at least an octave above its intended range. I like to use subwoofers higher than standard to gain headroom and extend the response smoothing benefits of spatial distribution. That means flattish and smooth FR out to 300+ Hz.

You also get the added benefit of listening to Johnny Cash in surround from a stereo source. One Johnny Cash in your mains, and one coming from each of your subs.
 
Linearity isn’t a big deal, but extension is; most people don’t upgrade because they want more power, they upgrade because they want deeper bass.

I think for subs or anything related to bass, the extension is how loud it can get.
 
I think for subs or anything related to bass, the extension is how loud it can get.
Talking at say 20Hz; some "musical subs" fall off past ~35Hz, but they can get loud above that.

This Rythmik model for instance has a "High" mode where extension is reduced but output above that is increased.
 
Unlike the rest of your post, I disagree with this statement. Ideally any drive unit will have flattish and smooth response above and below its passband. A subwoofer should be flat smooth and clean at least an octave above its intended range. I like to use subwoofers higher than standard to gain headroom and extend the response smoothing benefits of spatial distribution. That means flattish and smooth FR out to 300+ Hz.

Huh.. 300Hz does sound far-fetched to me. Any sub that can produce 20Hz at full level can hardly be asked to go above 150Hz. Any further than that and cone breakup is getting quite probable. But luckilly in real life there is no need to cross sub above 120Hz as that shouldn't be any problem for even a smallish speaker of decent quality.
 
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This Rythmik model for instance has a "High" mode where extension is reduced but output above that is increased.

And that is a very reasonable engineering design decision for music.
 
Huh.. 300Hz does sound far-fetched to me. Any sub that can produce 20Hz at full level can hardly be asked to go above 150Hz. Any further than that and cone breakup is getting quite probable. But luckilly in real life there is no need to cross sub above 120Hz as that shouldn't be any problem for even a smallish speaker of decent quality.

Most of the SVS sealed subs do just fine up to 250hz or 300hz, I merely use them as an example because I'm most familiar with them. But it's certainly not an uncommon or expensive capability.
 
now I’ve found some numbers I hav a a FV15HP in piano black , the largest one they ship outside of us sub was 1649$ shipping was 300$ With shenker or 580$ with UPS to Sweden .

I went with shenker for 300$ +vat and some fees that was roughly another 260$ so yea 560 to get i it to my door in Sweden but the packet/pallet was 63kg the FV15HP is big .

The smaller ones may be more reasonable to freight around the world :D
 
Maybe it's just me, but according to my ear many consumer subs that are designed to go as low as they can from as small a box as is possible...really sound like crap over 100 Hz or so. And "manly male" voices coming from a sub annoys the crap out of me. :facepalm:
 
Most of the SVS sealed subs do just fine up to 250hz or 300hz, I merely use them as an example because I'm most familiar with them. But it's certainly not an uncommon or expensive capability.

Well ok, but I wanted to stress than even the bookshelf speakers should do fine north of 120Hz. You may as well follow Geddes strategy and let your one or two subs overlay with your mains to share the effort in energizing your room. In that sceanrio you high-pass your mains at (for example) 80Hz and let the sub play up to 120 or even 150Hz, but I really see no need to push them higher than that.
 
Yeah, for sure. I'm not in the camp that would cross subs over at anything above 120hz. And even then I'd prefer to keep to 80 or 100hz in most cases. I can see the argument though, that if you already have multiple subs, especially if you're using 4 in the corners, that you might be able to achieve better quality 100-200hz by using the subs that high. Localization also seems like less of an issue in that case.

I certainly wouldn't attempt it with 1 sub though, lol.
 
Hopefully the owner can shoot a measurement from the LFE input to see if it is more usable than your measurements suggest.

This will be used in a 2.2 music-only setup with a 2-channel amp so no LFE out, most likely crossed around 80-100Hz. Room correction via miniDSP.
 
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