I am sure this has been covered but I love multi thousand dollar 8 gauge speaker wire when the wire in the amp leading to the speaker posts is 18 gauge, and the wire inside the speakers is even less. The wire inside a recent Carver tube amp review looked like bell wire, maybe 22 gauge? As though more electrons can hang out in the spacious 8 gauge speaker wire and rest up until it's their turn to head over to the speaker. Or wire that is directional, the electrons fare much better in one direction than the other. The Nordost wire seems inspired by the CA highway system, if there is a log jam in your lane you can travel on another. Better yet are the supports for the wire to keep it off the floor, in case some electrons might spill out on the carpet causing a mess. Anybody who has tried to get electrons out of shag carpet knows what I am talking about. Since most people have 6-8 foot speaker wire runs, there is no appreciable loss over that distance. 50' maybe. I live in the Bay area and there is a very high end stereo shop here, however I see them using crazy things like this and claim to hear a big difference. They use speaker wire the diameter of a garden hose with magical boxes in the middle. Taking the box apart voids the warranty. Of course it does, suppose you take it apart and find some notes that got clogged in it? That would be disappointing after spending 10k.
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Roomy Interconnects
- Thread starter Hart
- Start date
I am sure this has been covered but I love multi thousand dollar 8 gauge speaker wire when the wire in the amp leading to the speaker posts is 18 gauge, and the wire inside the speakers is even less. The wire inside a recent Carver tube amp review looked like bell wire, maybe 22 gauge? As though more electrons can hang out in the spacious 8 gauge speaker wire and rest up until it's their turn to head over to the speaker. Or wire that is directional, the electrons fare much better in one direction than the other. The Nordost wire seems inspired by the CA highway system, if there is a log jam in your lane you can travel on another. Better yet are the supports for the wire to keep it off the floor, in case some electrons might spill out on the carpet causing a mess. Anybody who has tried to get electrons out of shag carpet knows what I am talking about. Since most people have 6-8 foot speaker wire runs, there is no appreciable loss over that distance. 50' maybe. I live in the Bay area and there is a very high end stereo shop here, however I see them using crazy things like this and claim to hear a big difference. They use speaker wire the diameter of a garden hose with magical boxes in the middle. Taking the box apart voids the warranty. Of course it does, suppose you take it apart and find some notes that got clogged in it? That would be disappointing after spending 10k.
As a fellow Californian you should realize the importance of the cable lifters during an earthquake. 
It almost finally makes prop 65 restrictions make sense!As a fellow Californian you should realize the importance of the cable lifters during an earthquake.
Nothing wrong with telling the truth. One of the owners of audio vision in san francisco tried to sell me $10K speaker cables.
"It Is Difficult to Get a Man to Understand Something When His Salary Depends Upon His Not Understanding It"
audio-vision-sf.myshopify.com
"It Is Difficult to Get a Man to Understand Something When His Salary Depends Upon His Not Understanding It"
Audio Vision San Francisco - Hi Fi Home Theater | High End Speakers
We at Audio Vision San Francisco specialize in providing Hi Fi Home Theater, San Francisco High End Electronics, AV Projectors, Highend Speaker Systems and Loudspeaker Systems for all your audio video needs.
audio-vision-sf.myshopify.com
That pile of cables was sent to me. If I kept them, there was not a pair of cables over 100.00. I swapped the exact cable ends that Nordost uses for pure silver, then
silver clad, then .99999 copper. I made a better total cable than Nordost for under 120.00. Pure silver alligator springs won't hold their shape without an insert.
On my gear. I don't use nickel (unless it's stock), brass, iron, or rhodium <----(maybe Alaska in the tundra.)
I inspect every cable to see if it's assembled correctly. Several terminal ends were installed incorrectly and in the case of how the wire was made, and the way it went through the dies. Easy fix for a fussy person.
I use 3 billion volts at .0000000000001 amps for 5 years to cook the cables <-------- that is a joke.
I measure all cables with a simple DMM. I don't like assembly issues or a possible issue I couldn't see. Just being a responsible builder.
I plug cables in for hundreds of hours now before listening. I condition ALL PC, speaker cables, and phono RCAs. I don't care if they change
or not. The fact is all thing break in to a point and then and only then does NORMAL wear BEGIN. The whole life cycle of cables usually isn't
about my life time but a few. The cable to my home from the PG&E drop is much older than 1955 (1935). Why would I change that? If I didn't
add my own drops that were good copper, I'd step from aluminum (the plant) to copper, to aluminum, to copper. I followed the run from
PG&E 1/2 mile away. So WTF. Mine are pretty and functional. They please ME for a few bucks and a power maintainer to keep my expensive
old STUFF from getting fried. I hate braking thing because I boned up.
My cable for the most part are pretty old, but I tinker all the time when I can. What's life without tinkerin'?
I treat my cables like gold pressed latinum. I am one ANAL person when it comes to routing too.
I raise cables off the floor because it's easier to clean. I have dogs and rabbits.
There is an occasional goat every now and then. Ba&^@$d ate my hat.
I try to stay out of trouble, not get out of trouble.
Regards
silver clad, then .99999 copper. I made a better total cable than Nordost for under 120.00. Pure silver alligator springs won't hold their shape without an insert.
On my gear. I don't use nickel (unless it's stock), brass, iron, or rhodium <----(maybe Alaska in the tundra.)
I inspect every cable to see if it's assembled correctly. Several terminal ends were installed incorrectly and in the case of how the wire was made, and the way it went through the dies. Easy fix for a fussy person.
I use 3 billion volts at .0000000000001 amps for 5 years to cook the cables <-------- that is a joke.
I measure all cables with a simple DMM. I don't like assembly issues or a possible issue I couldn't see. Just being a responsible builder.
I plug cables in for hundreds of hours now before listening. I condition ALL PC, speaker cables, and phono RCAs. I don't care if they change
or not. The fact is all thing break in to a point and then and only then does NORMAL wear BEGIN. The whole life cycle of cables usually isn't
about my life time but a few. The cable to my home from the PG&E drop is much older than 1955 (1935). Why would I change that? If I didn't
add my own drops that were good copper, I'd step from aluminum (the plant) to copper, to aluminum, to copper. I followed the run from
PG&E 1/2 mile away. So WTF. Mine are pretty and functional. They please ME for a few bucks and a power maintainer to keep my expensive
old STUFF from getting fried. I hate braking thing because I boned up.
My cable for the most part are pretty old, but I tinker all the time when I can. What's life without tinkerin'?
I treat my cables like gold pressed latinum. I am one ANAL person when it comes to routing too.
I raise cables off the floor because it's easier to clean. I have dogs and rabbits.
There is an occasional goat every now and then. Ba&^@$d ate my hat.
I try to stay out of trouble, not get out of trouble.
Regards
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