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Room Modes

DonH56

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<Another repost of an old, old thread that may be interesting.>

Room interactions are often discussed as one of the primary reasons similar (or even dissimilar) systems sound different. If you read the “Reflections and DACs” thread you saw how reflections and standing waves can interact along a transmission line. As it happens, sound waves in a room also interact, affecting the amplitude of sound you hear at different frequencies. Sound waves from more than one source (for example, two speakers) will meet and interact. Sometimes they add, sometimes they subtract (cancel), but there will be interactions in any room. “Ah, but what about absorption?” you might ask. Ah, but remember I said “more than one source”. If I put two speakers in a perfect anechoic chamber, absorbing all sound when it interacts with any surface (walls, floor, ceiling), there are still those two sources to consider. If I sit between them, waves from one interact with waves from the other, despite having no other reflections to contend with. See Figure 1; sound waves from the two speakers spread out and interact at the listener’s location.

Fig1.JPG

Figure 1. Sound wave interaction.

Depending upon their phase, the sound waves may add constructively, making the sound louder, or destructively, sounding quieter. The phase depends upon the source, naturally, but also the frequency and distance from the speakers. Take a look at Figure 2, showing three different frequencies (fo, 2fo, and 5.9fo). The vertical axis shows amplitude and the horizontal axis distance. All is relative for this example.

Fig2.JPG

Figure 2. Amplitude vs. distance for three frequencies.

All three waves are launched at the same instant and in phase (this is not generally true). Now, there are several interesting observations we can make from this picture:

  • At an arbitrary distance, the sound waves do not line up perfectly. This is the way the world works and is not really important, so long as the phase relationship is maintained. That is, if your components (from source through speakers) alter the phase/frequency relationship, then what you hear may be different from what was originally recorded. However, even if that is not true, chances are you won’t notice… As an aside, speakers typically dominate the phase picture, and speakers with excellent pulse (or impulse) characteristics do best at maintaining phase relationships across all frequencies (linear phase, constant group delay, to be technical). I do like my Magnepans!
  • As frequency increases, the peaks and valleys get closer. At 20 Hz there are over 56 feet from peak to peak; at 20 kHz the distance from peak to peak is less than an inch. At low frequencies, the waves are longer than most rooms and room modes dominate. At high frequencies, most any little surface will cause reflections, breaking up the waves so that by the time they reach you the reflections are pretty random with respect to the source and don’t really bother us. In between, the same sound from two different sources interacts as a function of frequency (actually wavelength, velocity of sound/frequency) and distance. If we are sitting such that two peaks interact, the sound will be louder; if a positive peak and negative peak interact they will cancel and no sound is heard at that frequency. While perfect cancellation in the real world is rare, deep nulls and large peaks do occur. The effect looks like the teeth in a comb, and thus the name “comb filter effects”. Unfortunately, comb filter effects tend to be worst right through the middle of the audio band, right where we hear best. When you move your head an inch, and the sound changes by a mile, that’s almost always what is causing the effect. The good news is that sound absorbers and diffusers can go a long way toward reducing comb filter effects, and proper speaker positioning minimizes interactions from the desired direct sources (your speakers).
  • Finally, when the sound wave hits a reflecting surface, it hits and takes off at an angle equal to the incoming angle but on the other side: it makes a triangle. For the simplest case, consider a constant sound wave that comes from the speaker and hits the back wall, coming back along the same path but due to the extra delay (from the longer trip to the reflection point and back) is inverted (180 degrees out of phase) when the two waves "collide". It’s like a mirror image of the sound… It travels along interacting with the incoming wave, sometimes adding, sometimes subtracting. Think of sitting somewhere in Figure 1 while signals bounce around, creating peaks and valleys at your listening position. What we hear depends upon where we sit with respect to the distance from the wall, and the frequency of the sound.
If we have a sound source in a closed room, the frequencies at which interactions occur (the modes) can be predicted since the dimension are known. Since we know the velocity of sound for a given frequency, we can calculate wavelengths, and in turn predict the modes of that room. Those are the frequencies at which peaks and valleys will occur. These peaks and valleys will occur at integer submultiples of the room’s dimensions, and even multiples generally cause the biggest problems. Thus sitting in the exact center of the room is where we are most likely to have problems with them. That is also the reason many sources suggest sitting 1/3 from either wall in the longest dimension of the room to minimize the impact of the lowest mode.

Calculating room modes is straight-forward if somewhat tedious:

Fmode = v/2 * m / D where
Fmode is the frequency of the mode​
v is the velocity of sound (1130 ft/sec in dry air at sea level)​
m is the mode (an integer: 1, 2, 3, …)​
D is the room dimension (width, length, height)​

The fundamental mode (m = 1) creates a standing wave in the middle of that dimension, a peak or null (usually a null, but it is sometimes hard to predict which as the modes increase). A mode of two indicates a wave that has traveled twice along that dimension, and so forth. There are tangential and oblique modes reflecting from other dimensions and such; it can get complicated quickly. For now, consider a simple room with dimensions 10’ W x 20’ L x 9’ H and calculate the first few modes in each dimension:

Fmode = (28, 57, 57, 63, 85, 113, 113, 126, 141, 170, 170, 188, 198, 226, 226, 251) Hz

These are frequencies at which sound in the room will peak or null. Note that peaks can easily reach 10 dB (10 times) or more, but physical factors (absorption, wall vibrations, etc.) usually prevent peaks much larger than that. Nulls due to cancellation can be quite deep; 30 dB (1/1000) or more is not uncommon. Thus, fixing the nulls is often harder than bringing down the peaks. It is often easier to move the listening position…

Note that several frequencies are duplicated. This is because 20’ is an integer multiple of 10’, leading to multiple modes at the same frequency. This will exaggerate the effects at those frequencies, and indicates why good sound design requires room dimensions that are not multiples. Prime numbers are often used to prevent mode doubling.

Because closely-spaced modes are not heard as separate frequencies, knowing the difference frequency (Fd) between successive nodes is useful:

Fd = (28, 0, 6, 22, 28, 0, 13, 16, 28, 0, 19, 9, 28, 0, 25) Hz

Most texts agree that differences of 10 Hz or less are problematic as our ear/brain system does not separate them, making one big dip or peak. This room clearly has several problem frequencies…

Sound absorption or diffusion can be used to “break up” room modes and reduce their impact on frequency response. Either way, they must be physically large* to handle low-frequency problems due to the very long wavelengths involved. This is why solving bass problems requires large diffusers and/or a lot of bass traps. Other folk, such as our own Ethan Winer, are better equipped to discuss mitigation of these modes n your room. His website, www.realtraps.com, also has a calculator to help determine the modes of your room. There are numerous other calculators online.

Reading back, this may a bit hard to follow, but hopefully presents a picture of room modes and why they matter.
 
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Apparently the second post was lost along the way... Here it is again. Hopefully the pictures make things clearer! - Don

This is a follow-on to the first post on room modes with some more practical examples.

Room modes occur when sound waves are constrained in a room so they bounce off one surface and meet the sound wave from the other direction. The reflected wave is delayed by the extra path length it traveled, which is effectively a phase shift. If the shift is 180 degrees, the waves will be “out of phase” and cancel, creating a null (no sound).

Sound waves have a wavelength (W) related to their frequency (f) and the speed of sound (cs): W = cs / f. The speed of sound in air is about 1127 feet/second so a 100 Hz signal has a wavelength of about 11.27 feet, which represents 360 degrees (a full cycle). A reflected wave will be 180 degrees out of phase at one-half that distance or 5.635 feet. If you have a perfectly reflective room 11.27’ long and sit exactly in the middle, then at 100 Hz you will not hear anything because the direct and reflected sounds will cancel. In a real room, walls are not perfectly reflectively (they will vibrate and absorb some of the sound, and there may be pictures and things on the walls that break up the reflections), but very deep nulls (I have measured 20 to 30 dB) are still possible.

Here is a plot showing the response across a room 15’ long for the fundamental mode frequency (~75 Hz), the second harmonic at ~150 Hz, and third harmonic (~225 Hz). In these plots, one wall is at 0', and the second wall at 15' (front, back, side walls will all have modes). As expected, there is a null in the center of the room for the fundamental modal frequency, rising to peak response right at the walls (boundaries). The second harmonic is fine in the middle, but has nulls at the 1/4 and 3/4 distances along the length of the room. The third harmonic has a null in the center, but has additional nulls at the 1/6 and 5/6 points, and peaks at the 1/3 and 2/3 distances. Odd frequency multiples will have a null in the center of the room, and even multiples will have a peak in the middle of the room, with additional peaks and nulls as frequency increases.
1630288678628.png


Here is the same plot but with the relative sound level (SPL) in dB:
1630288733798.png


This is one reason placing the main listening position (MLP) in the exact center of the room is usually not advised. Moving away from the center can improve the smoothness of the frequency response. Other solutions include adding room treatments and using additional subwoofers placed to “drive” the nulls and flatten the response.

Absorption at 75 Hz would need to be very large and deep since the wavelength is so long (15’), but if we can get even a few dB it can help. Here is a picture showing the impact of room treatment that reduces the reflections by just 3 dB. The nulls are still fairly deep (~15 dB), but much less so than with no treatment, and the dips appear broader since they are not so deep. This shows that you can gain some benefit from panel absorbers (bass traps) even if the absorption is small at such low frequencies. Also remember absorption will be greater at higher frequencies so the upper modes are easier to control.
1630288815900.png


As a final exercise, increase the absorption to 6 dB, and notice how much smoother the response has become compared to the original plot.
1630288911550.png


HTH - Don
 
One more post to show what happens as a signal combines with an out-of-phase version of itself. The plot below shows the main signal (100 Hz) at the top, then the same signal shifted by 60, 120, and 180 degrees representing perfectly (lossless) reflected versions having longer path lengths (greater distance to the listener).

1630549398934.png


The next plot shows the main signal at top and the sum (linear addition) of the main signal with each of the phase-shifted ("reflected") versions. The resultants are at the same frequency, but the maximum amplitude varies as indicated in the numbers at the bottom of the plot. The 60-degree version actually adds constructively, increasing the amplitude from 1 Vpk to 1.732 Vpk; the 120-degree version creates a signal with the same amplitude but shifted in time; and the signal with 180-degree phase shift completely cancels the original signal resulting in 0 (zero) output. That last is what happens with a null and shows why simply increasing the amplitude does not help. Start with 1 – 1 = 0, and if you amplify by 10, then 10 – 10 = 0 – no net gain. You must do something to decrease the magnitude of the reflections (e.g. room treatment), move the listening position out of the null, or stick an active driver at the null point to “override” the null. Todd Welti and others explain how to use multiple subs to counter such nulls.

1630549410940.png
 
It’s very easy to fix axial room modes.

Basically, for each axis, you have to put two subwoofers at symmetrical points along the axis. If you manage to put both of them at ends of the axis (the corners) then the fundamental and the third harmonic are neutralized. If they’re at 25% the length of the axis then even the second harmonic is also neutralized.

so with just two subwoofers, you can deal with all 3 axial modes theoretically, but the location would be so bad aesthetically that you can kiss whatever Spouse approval factor points you have goodbye.

I feel like while 50-150 Hz are where people face the most issues with rooms it also takes the least amount of effort to solve it.

Either build the room with damping and get done with it, or invest in few cheap subs that can excite the first mode in your room and up.

I would be much more excited to learn more about the 200Hz-4KHz region when the response is almost completely unpredictable in nature and things are far from standardized in terms of treatment strategies and materials.
 
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I would be much more excited to learn more about the 200Hz-4KHz region when the response is almost completely unpredictable in nature and things are far from standardized in terms of treatment strategies and materials.
Why do you think that the response at that range is unpredictable? Most acoustic panels and materials are pretty well defined. The acoustic treatment methods of a room is pretty standardised as well. Maybe I’m missing your issue…


1657036143093.png
 
Why do you think that the response at that range is unpredictable? Most acoustic panels and materials are pretty well defined. The acoustic treatment methods of a room is pretty standardised as well. Maybe I’m missing your issue…


View attachment 216615
There is no straight forward way to deal with that region except getting a bigger room or keep filling the small space with foam and hope the problem is solved before it turns into an anechoic chamber.

It's also surprising how high concrete is in that graph for something that air cannot penetrate.
 
The ranking of concrete block must be related to its mass, right?

Is ‘fiberglass” Rock Wool, or a sheet form of some type, like a boat hull?
 
There is no straight forward way to deal with that region except getting a bigger room or keep filling the small space with foam and hope the problem is solved before it turns into an anechoic chamber.
There always is a solution. However, almost always absorption is the wrong solution. In fact for smaller spaces diffusing should be the first choice. Absorbers are good for reducing RT60 (reverberation) which is a big space attribute. They are good for lower frequencies as the OT explained eloquently.

It's also surprising how high concrete is in that graph for something that air cannot penetrate.
We hear sound pressure waives. Waves reflect first.
 
Is ‘fiberglass” Rock Wool, or a sheet form of some type, like a boat hull?
Fibreglass is as the name says is the fibre itself. The boat hulls are made with fibres mixed with resin. Rock Wool is a fibreglass brand/type.
 
There always is a solution. However, almost always absorption is the wrong solution. In fact for smaller spaces diffusing should be the first choice. Absorbers are good for reducing RT60 (reverberation) which is a big space attribute. They are good for lower frequencies as the OT explained eloquently.
you need something protruding out of the wall (or inside of it) that is 80 cm deep to diffuse 200Hz for example, hardly a realistic solution for a small studio or a family room.

At rooms that are large enough for these things to be both practical and not visually obstructive the rooms would not have tonal issues at these frequencies anyway.
 
you need something protruding out of the wall (or inside of it) that is 80 cm deep to diffuse 200Hz for example, hardly a realistic solution for a small studio or a family room.

At rooms that are large enough for these things to be both practical and not visually obstructive the rooms would not have tonal issues at these frequencies anyway.
Where do you get that 80cm and why do you specify the very bottom end of your range, which is almost 5 octaves.
 
There are skyline diffusor calculators online. it's just an unpractical solution all around.
At 400Hz you have a few 40cm peaks with an average depth of 25cm. That’s less than a bookshelf.

However, I can see that you are not looking for a solution but to complain. Solutions are seen by many as practical and just get on with using them.

1657043370757.jpeg


1657043653043.jpeg
 
At 400Hz you have a few 40cm peaks with an average depth of 25cm. That’s less than a bookshelf.

However, I can see that you are not looking for a solution but to complain. Solutions are seen by many as practical and just get on with using them.

View attachment 216637

View attachment 216638
The funny thing is that the diffusion in the pictures you shared doesn't even go below 1KHz. and below 1KHz is where most issues are.
 
The funny thing is that the diffusion in the pictures you shared doesn't even go below 1KHz. and below 1KHz is where most issues are.
I cannot ascertain depth from an image but I can tell you that an average depth of 25cm will diffuse down to 400Hz. Such a value will not make any difference to the scenario on that picture. In fact even a diffuser that goes lower than that is perfectly OK to use at that position as equipment are away from the wall.

When there’s a will there’s always a solution. Simply saying unpractical from the beginning will not help anyone to find a solution.
 
Fibreglass is as the name says is the fibre itself. The boat hulls are made with fibres mixed with resin. Rock Wool is a fibreglass brand/type.
So, you're saying it doesn't matter if it's "doped" with resin or woven pure fiber with air interstices? IOW, density is irrelevant?
 
So, you're saying it doesn't matter if it's "doped" with resin or woven pure fiber with air interstices? IOW, density is irrelevant?
I am not saying no such thing! I have told you what the fiberglass in the link I've posted is. That's all. I'm not here to argue a point.
 
Well, I'm here to learn. I do appreciate your post. The site has lots of handy, useful information, and the chart is intriguing.
I see that the fiberglass curve is labeled 6 lb/ft2, so that would seem to imply a particular density, but exactly which form is not obvious to me. I visited the site, but on a quick perusal did not find a reference to which form 6 lb/ft2 represents. I would think that Rockwool is too airy for a square foot to weigh 6 lb.
I see also GIK uses fiberglass in sheet form and Rockwool. Or at least, that's what I thought I read.
 
Well, I'm here to learn. I do appreciate your post. The site has lots of handy, useful information, and the chart is intriguing.
I see that the fiberglass curve is labeled 6 lb/ft2, so that would seem to imply a particular density, but exactly which form is not obvious to me. I visited the site, but on a quick perusal did not find a reference to which form 6 lb/ft2 represents. I would think that Rockwool is too airy for a square foot to weigh 6 lb.
I see also GIK uses fiberglass in sheet form and Rockwool. Or at least, that's what I thought I read.
You may consider asking the source’s publisher or do some reading.

Loose fibreglass density is 2-3 lb/ft3. You expect it to be compressed when used as an acoustic element, hence the value they used.
 
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