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Room Measurement Tutorial for Dummies Part 1

There are few more things transformative in audio than learning how room acoustics works. You never look at any system the same again. Like moving from film photography to digital, measurements give you instant feedback on what your system is doing. Even if you choose to not make any changes to the system, performing measurements can advance your knowledge of audio. So I hope everyone of you reading this post will try to measure your room.

My promise to you in return is to give you the world's simplest and most foolproof way to perform room measurements. And do so in a manner that get gets you professional results with substantial ability to go as deep as you want.

There are a number of videos and guides online on how to do this but in my opinion, they all use the wrong approach. Namely, they attempt to show you in one go how to do everything. Problem with that is a number of things can go wrong along the way that lead to failure and giving up. My approach may seem odd but please trust me. It is the best way to do this and is actually what I did myself to learn to use the tool. And comes from seeing so many people try to take the full bite and fail.

Room EQ Wizard
The tool of choice is a computer program called Room EQ Wizard or REW for short. Sadly there is no wizard in the program. Once you learn how to use the program, it is powerful and quick to use. Until that point though, the program can seem impenetrable even if you are computer savvy and know about measurements. The pitfalls are non-standard user interface, use of heavy technical jargon ("tukey window" anyone?) that even caused me to not know which end was up. It was only through significant experimentation and creating "controls" where I knew what the outcome had to be, did I manage to figure out how the program works. The path I am going to show you here will keep you from facing these difficulties.


0. First step is downloading the program. You used to have to register in a forum to get it but it now has its own web site. Downloading is hassle free, no spam, not garbage. http://www.roomeqwizard.com/

REW is written in "java" which means that it is pretty portable and runs on Mac and Windows. The downside is that it is written in Java which means the stupid thing (Java that is) will sit in the background and forever pester you to upgrade it, and opens your computer to security holes. I enable and disable it as I need it. I suggest for now leaving it enabled until you get through the program. A few days of use is not painful.

This is ALL you need for this part of tutorial as far as hardware and software! Yes, you heard me right. You don't need to buy a microphone. You won't even be hooking up your laptop to your audio system. All I want you to do is get through running the program and importantly, learn the steps to generate test tones and measure the response. The sound will be produced by your laptop speakers. And measurements performed using its built-in microphone.

No, this won't be the real measurements of your room since your laptop speakers suck and the microphone sucks nearly as much. The reason I want you to start this way is that the hardest part of this is using the program. Last thing we need is adding other bits to it that can also cause problems of their own. Most computers have working microphone and speakers so we are good to go there for testing. Once we are comfortable with this step we can move to adding hardware and making real measurements.

1. Install REW and run it. My version checks for new versions all the time at start-up. Cancel out of that if you see it and let the program start. You should see this screen:

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2. Ignore everything but the one button to the top left that I have highlighted in yellow called "Measure." Hit that button. REW will pop up an error message complaining about Calibration. Ignore that! And tell it to "continue anyway."

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You should then see this pop up window:

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Ignore everything but the two VU meters on the right. There are two numbers at the bottom and red indicator on the bar graphs. See if the numbers are dancing up and down by a bit. Whistle or shout into the laptop and see if they jump way high. If you have used your laptop for skype or anything elses that uses the mic, you should be good to go here.

If you don't see the VU meters changing, your computer microphone is not working. Stop here. Don't do anything else until you figure this out. For Windows users, go to the sound control panel, select the microphone and make sure it is not set to mute, or its level at zero. Many laptops have a function key that mutes and unmutes the microphone. Check to make sure you have not activated the muting this way.

3. Assuming you are seeing the levels changing with sound, next step is to hit the button on the left that says "Check Levels." You should hear a hissing sound like FM radio with no-station. Those of you who use AVRs, should be familiar with this test tone for calibrating your speaker levels. This only plays for a few seconds during which the VU meters should shoot way up.

If nothing plays, then you have a playback problem in your computer. Start your favorite media player and have it play some music on your laptop. If you have changed the default output to USB DACs, etc. you need to defeat those so that the music comes out of the laptop speakers. Once there, then REW should work just the same and the broadband test noise playing by hitting Check Levels again.

REW will then report on a level in green, yellow or red. This is the amount of headroom you have in dB SPL. REW likes to have about 10 dB SPL of headroom. Anything lower and REW complains with a red SPL value:

i-QN83Jhg-XL.png


Use the text field called "Level (db FS)" and hit the down button on it and keep testing until the level shows green. You can see mine set at -25.0 in this snapshot.

If your microphone or system is not working, which you should have caught earlier, you will see something like this:

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This is basically "digital zero" with the program unable to capture anything. In my case, my mic was set to mute.

Here is an OK level:

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Notice that all I had to do is lower the db SPL a couple of notches.

Alas, this exercise can be futile. The test tone REW uses here is different than the one it uses to make its real measurements. The reason to go through this is because the controls to adjust the levels is the same when we make the actual measurements. And this step aids in further troubleshooting if the basics are not working right.

5. Now that the basic checks are done, we are ready for our first measurement. How exciting! :D Before you can do that, you need to fill out the two text fields I had highlighted in the user interface. Those are the frequency range of the measurements. It wants to know the start and stop frequencies. Put in 20 for the first box and 20000 for the second. Now hit the "Start Measure" button.

At first you likely hear nothing even though the program seems to be doing something. That is because your laptop speakers can't reproduce 20 Hz. After a while, the frequency gets high enough that you start to hear a tone that is changing in pitch. It rapidly changes in frequency all the way up to 20 Khz. For the same reasons as the bass, and your hearing, likely you won't hear the last part of this sweep either. That's OK. We are just learning about the system.

During this measuring, REW puts up a "headroom" message and a changing SPL number much like when you were checking levels. Once again, if this number runs into values in red, your signal is too hot. Likewise blue means your levels are too low. Use the Levels control to change the levels or the speaker level in your PC if you can't boost it enough in REW.

REW seems happy with numbers in 10 to 20. I like to get it as close as I can to 10 so that the measurements I make are well above the room noise floor. For this testing anything in green is fine because we are just playing. But when the time comes to make real measurements, this becomes important.

Alas, adjusting levels in this mode can be tedious as every time REW is done with the measurement, it goes back to the main program interface with the new measurement captured:

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If your levels were wrong, ignore what you see and click "Measure" again and go back to the measurement window and adjust the levels. Keep doing this until you get satisfactory levels.

6. Congratulations. You just made your first room measurement! Or I should say the capabilities of your laptop speaker and mic. You should see two things here. One is your measurement in a much smaller window on the left. But also a much expanded version on the right as you see in mine. If you see the little graph on the left but not on the right, then use the scroll bar to the left of the large graph and go up and down and you should be able to find it.

The X (horizontal) axis is the frequency. The Y (vertical) axis is the playback "SPL Level." I put that in quotation mark because the absolute numbers there are completely wrong. We could have set our mic and speaker level to anything and change those numbers. Good news is that this does not matter!!! In acoustics measurements, we only care about the shape of things, i.e. relative values. We care that at say 50 Hz, we had a peak that was 10 db higher than at 1 Khz. We don't care what the actual measured value was at either point.

Attempting to get accurate SPL levels is the biggest mistake users of REW make! Do not fall in that trap. There is no useful information in there. Getting accurate levels is possible but requires extensive detective and configuration work with no net value. Get an SPL meter if you want to calibrate your system.

Back to our measurements, you can see the response of my laptop above with the TV playing in the background and the limit of 10 KHz. As expected my laptop speakers don't play below 300 Hz. And high frequency response was shot after about 7 or 8 Khz. Isn't this type of information revealing? Could you have guessed these limits from just looking at your laptop or playing music?

As you keep making measurements, REW stacks each one of them on the left. By clicking on any of them, you see that graph.

6. Now is the time to get comfortable with the program. Make another measurement but this time cup your hand over the microphone or speakers and see how the graph changes.

To see all the measurements at once to compare them, click on the button that says "ALL SPL." You see a list of checkboxes at the bottom. Click them on and off and graphs appear and disappear. The color of the graph matches the measurement lists on the left. Speaking of that, click on where the date is and type whatever you want. I put in the name of the measurement such as, "speaker covered by hand." There is also a white box for any comments you want to add.

To delete a measurement click on the red "x" on the measurement bar on the left. Go ahead, delete all of them and then make a new measurement. Get comfortable with the interface.

Click on the button on top right that says "Limits." Change the left and right number and that would change the range of frequencies seen. If you want to see just the bass, set the low to 20 Hz and high to 200 Hz. That won't show much now given the limitation of the laptop but is essential when the time comes. Top and bottom set on the left adjust the high and low of the display. Again, ignore the second set on the right.

Go to File menu and click Save. What REW saves is the entire set of measurements shown in the left vertical bar, not single ones!

This is all I want you to do in this lesson. The rest is quite a bit easier. Have trouble? Ask questions here. Let's get everyone to finish this part before we move on.

Part 2: http://www.audiosciencereview.com/f...om-measurement-tutorial-for-dummies-part-2.5/
Hey would it be possible to upload the picures again so it is visable in this guide? I would really like to go through this properly. Thank you!
 
It’s been over 9 years since the first post. Even if the screenshots could be found, would they still be relevant after 9 years worth of updates? I imagine a more recent guide to REW would be more helpful (and if anyone knows a noob-friendly one, links would be appreciated).
 
It’s been over 9 years since the first post. Even if the screenshots could be found, would they still be relevant after 9 years worth of updates? I imagine a more recent guide to REW would be more helpful (and if anyone knows a noob-friendly one, links would be appreciated).
Yes, REW has been undated and revised many times since @amirm started this How-To on his old site even before this one was born.
The best choice today is just to go the REW download site, scroll down, and look at all the more modern listed wizards that have been done.
 
It’s been over 9 years since the first post. Even if the screenshots could be found, would they still be relevant after 9 years worth of updates? I imagine a more recent guide to REW would be more helpful (and if anyone knows a noob-friendly one, links would be appreciated).

The principles of taking measurements for rooms have not changed. Yes, REW has changed. More features have been added. But those features are for advanced users that most of us will likely never use. What Amir wrote 9 years ago is still relevant.

Anyway, I think I should write a small eBook about taking and interpreting measurements in REW. I'll get started when I have a bit of time.
 
Anyway, I think I should write a small eBook about taking and interpreting measurements in REW. I'll get started when I have a bit of time.
That would be most welcome,
Thanks Keith
 
Yes........GO Keith GO
 
Hi guys, I have made a start on the eBook which I will release for free. Well, not completely free ... I suggest that if you find it helpful, you make a donation. Not to me, but to @JohnPM. You can follow the progress in my Google Drive here. I am slowly adding pages to it. Please PM me with comments and criticism if you have any.
 
Question about this point. Why is a small tripod considered bad due to its close proximity to reflective surfaces when the microphone orientation in the picture of the large tripod on page 5 shows the microphone sitting closely above the couch anyway? I use a small tripod to place the microphone at ear height in the listening position on similar couch seats, which are often and unavoidable close to reflective surfaces.
 
Why is a small tripod considered bad due to its close proximity to reflective surfaces when the microphone orientation in the picture of the large tripod on page 5 shows the microphone sitting closely above the couch anyway?
Because the tripod itself reflects sound.
In practice, reflections can rarely be completely avoided by amateur developers.
It is important to eliminate as many sources of error as possible from the outset and to be as familiar as possible with those that cannot be removed, so that they can be interpreted in the measurement diagram.
 
Question about this point. Why is a small tripod considered bad due to its close proximity to reflective surfaces when the microphone orientation in the picture of the large tripod on page 5 shows the microphone sitting closely above the couch anyway? I use a small tripod to place the microphone at ear height in the listening position on similar couch seats, which are often and unavoidable close to reflective surfaces.
I have tested this; it’s usually a tiny difference in an area you won’t be correcting anyway. IMO there’s a risk that an insistence on the techniques used by professionals over-complicate the process and intimidate lay people.
 
Question about this point. Why is a small tripod considered bad due to its close proximity to reflective surfaces when the microphone orientation in the picture of the large tripod on page 5 shows the microphone sitting closely above the couch anyway? I use a small tripod to place the microphone at ear height in the listening position on similar couch seats, which are often and unavoidable close to reflective surfaces.
??? How small. the little 6" cardboard thing the comes with the AVR?
The surfaces refection's are part of the intended correction
But the small tripod limits your ability to position the mic where you need to.
How do you make the mic "float" in the listening position where your head would be while seated on the MLP with the little thing?
Or any of the other recommend positions to the side, in front of, in back of the listeners head?
 
??? How small. the little 6" cardboard thing the comes with the AVR?
The surfaces refection's are part of the intended correction
But the small tripod limits your ability to position the mic where you need to.
How do you make the mic "float" in the listening position where your head would be while seated on the MLP with the little thing?
Or any of the other recommend positions to the side, in front of, in back of the listeners head?
It's a telescopic desktop mic stand. When placed on the couch it's tall enough to hold the mic in the vertical position at my ear height when I'm sitting.
 
I use a small tripod to place the microphone at ear height in the listening position on similar couch seats, which are often and unavoidable close to reflective surfaces.
It's a telescopic desktop mic stand. When placed on the couch it's tall enough to hold the mic in the vertical position at my ear height when I'm sitting.
Well that will work, if only for the single position, But then what do you do for the other 7 or 8 positions that all DRC recommend?
A nice little mic boom can be grabbed off ebay for $24 or less and can come in real handy many times.

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Well that will work, if only for the single position, But then what do you do for the other 7 or 8 positions that all DRC recommend?
I put it in other listening positions on surrounding couches and on the coffee table in between them.
A nice little mic boom can be grabbed off ebay for $24 or less and can come in real handy many times.
Yes that's about what I paid for it. I was offered a full-size mic boom for free by a family member but intentionally opted for this instead because I figured it'd be a better option for placing at listening height. Hence the question!
Interesting! I haven't seen that picture before. Does this apply to 2.1 and 2.2 systems too?

From the picture (if that were my seating arrangement), I'd have measured numbers 1,2,3, and 5 where they are, then 4 and 6 on the two single couches where other people sit. However, in the room that I'm mostly concerned about, I have an L-shaped arrangement of two- and three-seater couches, with a coffee table in the middle and a single seater couch diagonally opposite. There is a brick wall just behind the two-seater (numbers 11, 7, 8, 12 in the picture) which causes horrible reflections. In an ideal world all the listening positions would be perfectly balanced, but, as that's not possible I want to prioritise my listening position opposite the speakers (around number 10 in this picture) while balancing the others as best I can. So, should I place the mic on the other listening positions as I have been doing, or place it more around the centre of my own listening position as described in the picture?
 
Interesting! I haven't seen that picture before. Does this apply to 2.1 and 2.2 systems too?
You've never seen it? Sorry I took if for granted you were using some type of room correction software, if not all bets are off.
It probably would really improve your bass response specially with 2 subwoofers
Yes if your interested in getting better averaged response for listeners outside of the MLP
Audyssey recommends the other mic positions no more than about 2' front the center of your head, most other DRC about the same.
 
FYI, the images were hosted on a photography site I used to have an account on. I cancelled that subscription a couple of years ago, not realizing they were linked to in this article. :( I will see if I can find the originals and update but am not hopeful given how many years it has been.
 
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