My first good car system was in a 1978 VW Rabbit diesel.
I reupholstered it with jute matt under the carpet, bitumen adhesive panels and jute in the door cavities, and replaced the door-card with upholstered wood panel (those old VW had simple flat door-cards.) It was the best audible improvement I made, especially since it improved the car when not listening.)
I ran the install shop at a car stereo store in the '80s. We tried to achieve flat response after correcting for the estimated road noise. I can honestly say we likely seldom achieved that, we had much less advanced measurement gear which really was most useful for determining defective drivers from the manufacturer prior to install, and blown drivers in a car prior to de-installation. Plus I knew nothing about acoustics having just started reading Speaker Builder, Loudspeaker Cookbook, Speakerlab and Radio Shack catalogs, etc. We also often got overruled by the customer, who were mostly Central Valley cruisers. I had a tri-amplified ADS system with Soundstream amps and crossovers, which was a departure from what I was typically installing. I just got the ADS tweeters out and measured them a few weeks ago (in free space with no baffle, and with a square sharp-edged baffle), they are still very competent:
I'd like to go back to the '80s with a laptop, USB mic interface, and REW.
I guess my point is, you should be able to select a response curve that matches your preference in your car. I bet that will change depending on if you are stationary or driving, and even how fast and the type of road surface. But at least you will be able to begin with reasonably well-integrated drivers based on measurements, and then choose a cabin-curve that sounds good across a range of conditions, and not fool yourself just because you are driving on a crummy road or in rain.