Review and Measurements of Yamaha WXA-50 Streaming Amp

[MrDodge]

output via Sony is fixed, so not much you can do. The output voltage via the Sony is just less than the Yamaha is expecting.

Found a workaround. You can use the advanced settings on the Musiccast app to increase (or decrease) the individual source volumes by up to 6db. Good enough for what I am trying to achieve.

 

[Unclevanya]

Found a workaround. You can use the advanced settings on the Musiccast app to increase (or decrease) the individual source volumes by up to 6db. Good enough for what I am trying to achieve.

Can you clarify how to get to this setting? I'm having trouble finding it.

 

[SimpleTheater]

Can you clarify how to get to this setting? I'm having trouble finding it.

Look at post #211. I think he’s in that area of the setup.

 

[panther]

I still don't quite know if I should have my sub set to LFE Bypass or Variable when it's connected to the WXA-50. It just wildly jumps around at times in sound and then seems to settle down, and then won't detect at times. 2 different WXA-50's now and I've had the same things happening. When I go back to my Vanatoo T0 speakers it works just fine though. I think I am just going to get a MINI DSP and let it handle the sub crossover.

 

[SovonHalder]

Warning For Potential Buyers - Who'll use it on a desktop.

Keep It Away From Your Displays Just to be Safe. (And for good reasons)

This device (Yamaha WXA-50) produces absurd amounts of heat on it's top surface. More than any electronic device I've seen so far. And with what I've read from other reviews, it's by design. As you'll see from the images below, I use a 4K monitor from LG (27UK850). I put my new WXA-50 right underneath the device itself to avoid cable mess and it ruined my monitor. Now, before you say it's a coincidence, I urge you to read up on "monitor red corners". Drastic change in temperature and humidity is a very common reason for this issue.

Your desk setup and monitor will be different than mine and maybe your monitor will have higher manufacturing quality and less susceptible to slight changes in temperature. But just to be sure, please take some sort of precaution. I'm writing this because I don't want others to be screwed up like me. Buy a monitor stand or something that provides a very thick insulation layer between the display panel and the heat generated by the amp, while also keeping enough breathing space for the amp. I don't know if this red corner issue fixes itself automatically but for me it's unchanged for the past 3-4 weeks and I'll have to go through the lengthy LG service process which is difficult where I live.


My initial setup for couple of days; (Do NOT do this if you have the same monitor)

And this happened on all corners after a couple of days and it's been like this for the past 3 weeks.

In its defence, the amp is fantastic and I genuinely like the built in DAC; it drives my 3020i pairs very well.
The only downside I could think of is the lack usb input and advance controls for EQ and this excessive heat.
Nevertheless I blame LG for their ****** engineering on the UD, UK & UL lineup of displays.
I bought a decent high density MDF material stand and this is my setup for now.

 

[Unclevanya]

Look at post #211. I think he’s in that area of the setup.

Thank you.

 

[MrDodge]

Can you clarify how to get to this setting? I'm having trouble finding it.

On the musiccast app, go to the settings -> scroll to advanced settings -> click on input settings -> boost the db for the specific input.

 

[thwang99]

First time poster! Been looking for an amp to replace my Bryston B60R, which though fine, I want to upgrade with a class D amplifier. I will be using as an integrated amplifier for computer system only, driving Dynaudio contour 1.3se's. DAC is a Topping D10. I bought a Klipsch powergate, but it shuts off every 15 minutes of no audio. I need audio on 24/7 as the computer gives alerts that I need to respond to during the day. I looked through this thread and didn't find anything about the Yamaha auto-shutting off, but want to verify if the Yamaha truly stays on 24/7, can someone with this amp verify this? Another amp I am considering is the Teac AX-505B, but that isn't reviewed and measured (I want something that measures good). I think the Teac should be fine though, so that is another option. If I do get one, I'd be willing to get it sent in to be reviewed if OP wants to review it. Thanks.

 

[Doodski]

Welcome to ASR @thwang99

 

[Unclevanya]

First time poster! Been looking for an amp to replace my Bryston B60R, which though fine, I want to upgrade with a class D amplifier. I will be using as an integrated amplifier for computer system only, driving Dynaudio contour 1.3se's. DAC is a Topping D10. I bought a Klipsch powergate, but it shuts off every 15 minutes of no audio. I need audio on 24/7 as the computer gives alerts that I need to respond to during the day. I looked through this thread and didn't find anything about the Yamaha auto-shutting off, but want to verify if the Yamaha truly stays on 24/7, can someone with this amp verify this? Another amp I am considering is the Teac AX-505B, but that isn't reviewed and measured (I want something that measures good). I think the Teac should be fine though, so that is another option. If I do get one, I'd be willing to get it sent in to be reviewed if OP wants to review it. Thanks.

My recollection (I own one) is that there might be a setting that enables a power off timer but I am pretty sure the unit won't turn off unless you turn it off by default. I know I've had it on for several hours without music playing and it didn't turn off on me.

 

[thwang99]

My recollection (I own one) is that there might be a setting that enables a power off timer but I am pretty sure the unit won't turn off unless you turn it off by default. I know I've had it on for several hours without music playing and it didn't turn off on me.

Thanks, was about to buy it, but then actually just decided to bite the bullet (meaning pay more than what I originally planned to) and get the Teac AX-505B. Hopefully it will sound better than the Yamaha! - Tony

 

[VintageFlanker]

Another amp I am considering is the Teac AX-505B, but that isn't reviewed and measured (I want something that measures good). I think the Teac should be fine though, so that is another option.

Welcome!

The Teac is a good option. I personally love the industrial design. But you're getting robbed by paying 1500$ for this. Why? Because, as far as we know, this is just some NC122MP module inside (+ Teac board). The NC122 is a very good module and measures well. But, let be honest, you can get any good DAC with volume control + NC122MP power amps from March Audio, Audiophonics (369€), Apollon, Rouge Audio etc. That for less money and basically the same (if not better) performance. Even more, you can get a NC252MP amp + DAC, and this will still cheaper.

Have to admit, tho: the unit is gorgeous and look beautifully finished. And has VU Meters!

 

[thwang99]

Welcome!

The Teac is a good option. I personally love the industrial design. But you're getting robbed by paying 1500$ for this. Why? Because, as far as we know, this is just some NC122MP module inside (+ Teac board). The NC122 is a very good module and measures well. But, let be honest, you can get any good DAC with volume control + NC122MP power amps from March Audio, Audiophonics (369€), Apollon, Rouge Audio etc. That for less money and basically the same (if not better) performance. Even more, you can get a NC252MP amp + DAC, and this will still cheaper.

Have to admit, tho: the unit is gorgeous and look beautifully finished. And has VU Meters!

View attachment 78576

Yeah, now I'm kind of second guessing my purchase, since something like Topping D50s DAC plus a NC122MP (or even NC252MP) amp would be cheaper! BTW I bought mine for $849 as an open box from Teac USA. Thanks for the suggestions, I still have time to return it. But I love how the Teac looks too. I'm waiting to receive it still!

 

[VintageFlanker]

BTW I bought mine for $849 as an open box from Teac USA

At this price, it could become a good deal!

Yeah, now I'm kind of second guessing my purchase, since something like Topping D50s DAC plus a NC122MP (or even NC252MP)

I would rather consider a balanced DAC, as it is recommended by Hypex (not that big of a deal, tho). S.M.S.L M200 is a good option with rotary volume plot (279$).

 

[thwang99]

Welcome!

The Teac is a good option. I personally love the industrial design. But you're getting robbed by paying 1500$ for this. Why? Because, as far as we know, this is just some NC122MP module inside (+ Teac board). The NC122 is a very good module and measures well. But, let be honest, you can get any good DAC with volume control + NC122MP power amps from March Audio, Audiophonics (369€), Apollon, Rouge Audio etc. That for less money and basically the same (if not better) performance. Even more, you can get a NC252MP amp + DAC, and this will still cheaper.

Have to admit, tho: the unit is gorgeous and look beautifully finished. And has VU Meters!

View attachment 78576

Listened to the Teac AX-505 for about a week. It does seem quieter than my Bryston B60R. For quiet passages, and piano music, it sounds great. But when songs have lots of instruments or voices coming, it sounds a little harsh, compared to the Bryston. I find myself wanting to turn the volume down. I don't get that with the Bryston. With the Bryston, each instrument, voice, sounds distinct, with the Teac it sounds more congested, if that makes any sense. I really want to like the Teac, as objectively it should be better, and the Bryston is out of warranty (it's over the 20 years warranty, though I did use the warranty once at 18 years old). But, as of now I might be returning it. The Bryston just sounds smooth, and I never find myself wanting to turn the volume down.

 

[KEW]

Sorry if this is redundant - I didn't read through the entire thread!
From @amirm 's review:

.
The case is metal as best as I can tell which is good as the unit generates good bit of heat. Strangely the heat is concentrated on the left side yet the vents are on the right!

I have this unit and considering your comment it becomes apparent that the cooling design for this unit gave priority to the vertical orientation of the wxa-50:

I guess this makes sense since in this orientation you end up with an effective thermal "chimney" drawing cool air in through the vents to the right of the volume knob and exhausting hot air out the top! I would encourage anyone who has this unit to orient it this way if possible!
The unit comes with nice and simple supports to stabilize it in this position, but Yamaha did not include them in this photo.

 

[Unclevanya]

Sorry if this is redundant - I didn't read through the entire thread!
From @amirm 's review:

I have this unit and considering your comment it becomes apparent that the cooling design for this unit gave priority to the vertical orientation of the wxa-50:

I guess this makes sense since in this orientation you end up with an effective thermal "chimney" drawing cool air in through the vents to the right of the volume knob and exhausting hot air out the top! I would encourage anyone who has this unit to orient it this way if possible!
The unit comes with nice and simple supports to stabilize it in this position, but Yamaha did not include them in this photo.

My used unit didn't come with the stand. Dimensions and pics of it installed would be appreciated.

 

[KEW]

My used unit didn't come with the stand. Dimensions and pics of it installed would be appreciated.

Here is an image that shows the supports:

I will get dimensions Saturday when I am visiting my girlfriend's house where I set it up. But for a rough description, there are two pieces (injection molded plastic) and each one involves a flat piece ~1"deep and ~3" across the bottom with uprights about 3/4" tall on either side of the unit.
The bottom edge (without the supports) is square and it will sit well without the base if you have a stable surface and don't have kids/animals knocking stuff around. Also, the foot pads (which are hidden on the left side of the image - if they are still in place) are removable if you want a cleaner look.

 

[Unclevanya]

Here is an image that shows the supports:

I will get dimensions Saturday when I am visiting my girlfriend's house where I set it up. But for a rough description, there are two pieces (injection molded plastic) and each one involves a flat piece ~1"deep and ~3" across the bottom with uprights about 3/4" tall on either side of the unit.
The bottom edge (without the supports) is square and it will sit well without the base if you have a stable surface and don't have kids/animals knocking stuff around. Also, the foot pads (which are hidden on the left side of the image - if they are still in place) are removable if you want a cleaner look.

Thank you, that helps. I wasn't sure if there was more to it like venting holes or tabs to leave an air gap. I appreciate this.

 

[electric65]

The WXA-50 seems awfully tempting, but I have no use for the streaming features. I hate to pay $500 for it, knowing that I'll never use it for it's main purpose... Are there any good alternatives without the streaming that are also similarly compact, measures well, optical input is nice but not required, and are hopefully cheaper, since they wouldn't include the internet connectivity hardware?

I know last year Amir had mentioned that there were "far better choices" if the streaming features aren't needed....

Welcome to the forum Derek. Do you need networking/streaming features in the DAC? If not, there are far better choices.