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Review and Measurements of Topping DX3Pro DAC and Headphone Amp

bennetng

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flipflop

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Your Score: Mild Indication of OCD
Your answers suggest a Mild indication that you have symptoms common among people with OCD. However, this quiz is no substitute for a proper diagnosis from a health care professional and we would encourage you to schedule an appointment with your doctor or other mental health professional now.

:confused:
 

derp1n

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The low dispersion filter in AK4493 is not something new at all. One of my cheap old CS4382 soundcard uses that kind of filter.
Been meaning to check if it's similar to ESS's apodizing filter.
 

voon

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I tried to measure my right and left channel voltage now with the suggestion to use my UE TF10 cables. I currently can only use a cheap chiense meter (which cant sit still .. wild jumping numbers until you actually measure something, then it stays stable .. a battery I tested etc, so the readings seem ok). I played music through the topping asio driver and had the dx3 at around -12 dB on the USB port.

On the left channel I was measureing voltages around 0.3V +- 0.2 while music was playing .. it did that for as long as I would measure.

On the right channel, whenever I would connect my probes, it jumps to 5 or 6V and then fell down to 0.

In the attached video I tried to show that. The first half is the right channel .. the numbers show Volts. You can see how it jumps to 5 or 6 when I touch the cable pins (the random numbers before are just my device...) and then it falls to 0 .. then again to 5 or 6 .. then 0 again. The second half of the video shows the left channel ... normally playing I assume.

Video:
 
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I tried to measure my right and left channel voltage now with the suggestion to use my UE TF10 cables. I currently can only use a cheap chiense meter (which cant sit still .. wild jumping numbers until you actually measure something, then it stays stable .. a battery I tested etc, so the readings seem ok). I played music through the topping asio driver and had the dx3 at around -12 dB on the USB port.

On the left channel I was measureing voltages around 0.3V +- 0.2 while music was playing .. it did that for as long as I would measure.

On the right channel, whenever I would connect my probes, it jumps to 5 or 6V and then fell down to 0.

In the attached video I tried to show that. The first half is the right channel .. the numbers show Volts. You can see how it jumps to 5 or 6 when I touch the cable pins (the random numbers before are just my device...) and then it falls to 0 .. then again to 5 or 6 .. then 0 again. The second half of the video shows the left channel ... normally playing I assume.

Video:
Quick reply, firstly when a meter is floating (not measuring) it's readings will usually jump around on a voltage setting, this is normal most of the time.
Secondly, you need to be measuring for DC voltage, not AC which an audio signal would be. It is a high amount of DC offset that can seriously damage speaker coils as you previously mentioned. I can't tell from your video on my small phone screen if you're measuring AC or DC.

Do not plug in any further headphones into this unit if you want them to survive!
 
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I tried to measure my right and left channel voltage now with the suggestion to use my UE TF10 cables. I currently can only use a cheap chiense meter (which cant sit still .. wild jumping numbers until you actually measure something, then it stays stable .. a battery I tested etc, so the readings seem ok). I played music through the topping asio driver and had the dx3 at around -12 dB on the USB port.

On the left channel I was measureing voltages around 0.3V +- 0.2 while music was playing .. it did that for as long as I would measure.

On the right channel, whenever I would connect my probes, it jumps to 5 or 6V and then fell down to 0.

In the attached video I tried to show that. The first half is the right channel .. the numbers show Volts. You can see how it jumps to 5 or 6 when I touch the cable pins (the random numbers before are just my device...) and then it falls to 0 .. then again to 5 or 6 .. then 0 again. The second half of the video shows the left channel ... normally playing I assume.

Video:
Just opened the video on my PC, you're measuring AC voltage, you need to change it to measuring for DC voltage and retest.
I believe pressing the yellow button whilst meter dial is on V (voltage) mode until the screen says DC should enable you to measure the DC offset from this unit.
"Buttons:
  • Range (Blue): Will disable auto range and change range, hold down to activate background light.
  • Sel/Hold (Yellow): Select the ranges printed with yellow, hold down to freeze the display reading"
 

RayDunzl

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voon

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Ok, sorry, I'm not a very electronicy person .. I bought this one day to have somethign around :)

Yes, the video was AC and you do set it manually with the SEL button. I now measured it on a DC setting.

The left channel shows 0V (or if I have it on mV, it jumps around 0.1 mV).

The right channel shows a constant 8.4V.
 

amirm

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Ok, sorry, I'm not a very electronicy person .. I bought this one day to have somethign around :)

Yes, the video was AC and you do set it manually with the SEL button. I now measured it on a DC setting.

The left channel shows 0V (or if I have it on mV, it jumps around 0.1 mV).

The right channel shows a constant 8.4V.
We should have given you better instructions. If that is the reading, the right channel is shorted out and the unit needs to be sent back for replacement. Do NOT plug anything else into it.
 
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In response to people attacking me.

Why don't you ask them to leave it? I've been trying to have a perfectly reasonable discussion this evening then jsmiller comes at me for no reason with a random quote from days back.
Context is relevant. You joined this forum Saturday, and this appears to be the only thread you are posting to. Your posts are are in response to a legitimate issue with a production unit, and that is a valid issue.

Having said that, and considering the number and tone of your posts (all in this one discussion), it would be easy to perceive your participation as single minded. People (including the manufacturer) have responded to, and acknowledged, your complaint.

At this stage, your best course of action may be to widen the scope of your activity within the forum and let this issue rest for a bit. Some "positive" contributions on other threads could aid your reputation, ameliorating some of the perception that you are a loud voice in a small room with a particular bone to pick.

If, after some time away from this issue, you see that it has receded to the background or been buried, a gentle reminder about your problem should be all that's needed to get people's attention back on this (you've beaten the drum loud enough).
 

amirm

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Your Score: Mild Indication of OCD
Your answers suggest a Mild indication that you have symptoms common among people with OCD. However, this quiz is no substitute for a proper diagnosis from a health care professional and we would encourage you to schedule an appointment with your doctor or other mental health professional now.

:confused:
Next time you guys wonder why there are spelling errors and such in my posts, you now know why:

1544133110150.png


:)
 
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Ok, sorry, I'm not a very electronicy person .. I bought this one day to have somethign around :)

Yes, the video was AC and you do set it manually with the SEL button. I now measured it on a DC setting.

The left channel shows 0V (or if I have it on mV, it jumps around 0.1 mV).

The right channel shows a constant 8.4V.
That's even higher than I expected to see, no wonder your headphones burnt out. Do not use further and return the unit ASAP.

I know that when I receive my unit the first thing I do below I plug any headphones into it is measuring for any DC offset.
 
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Context is relevant. You joined this forum Saturday, and this appears to be the only thread you are posting to. Your posts are are in response to a legitimate issue with a production unit, and that is a valid issue.

Having said that, and considering the number and tone of your posts (all in this one discussion), it would be easy to perceive your participation as single minded. People (including the manufacturer) have responded to, and acknowledged, your complaint.

At this stage, your best course of action may be to widen the scope of your activity within the forum and let this issue rest for a bit. Some "positive" contributions on other threads could aid your reputation, ameliorating some of the perception that you are a loud voice in a small room with a particular bone to pick.

If, after some time away from this issue, you see that it has receded to the background or been buried, a gentle reminder about your problem should be all that's needed to get people's attention back on this (you've beaten the drum loud enough).
I don't keep going on about, that's the thing. I keep having to post reply after reply after reply to people like you who for some reason think they need to chip in like their some kind of ASR bastion.

I don't need to hear it. People are just blowing it out of proportion running to the aid of amirm as I dared to draw criticism to a review here (quite valid criticism) and despite the last word in the review "welcoming it" it seems it isn't welcome at all.
 
Last edited:

voon

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We should have given you better instructions. If that is the reading, the right channel is shorted out and the unit needs to be sent back for replacement. Do NOT plug anything else into it.
Oh well :( What worries me, is that it initially worked ... can this happen just because I had an IEM in it (a TRRS one)? I'm worried, because even if it was replaced, I'm worried it'll happen again.

@TP-Wong
Hello .. aren't you from Topping and could add to this convo, please?
 

BYRTT

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Ok, sorry, I'm not a very electronicy person .. I bought this one day to have somethign around :)

Yes, the video was AC and you do set it manually with the SEL button. I now measured it on a DC setting.

The left channel shows 0V (or if I have it on mV, it jumps around 0.1 mV).

The right channel shows a constant 8.4V.
Seems broken then, does that high DC reading look the same when no track material is playing or using another track than that from post 994.
 

amirm

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Oh well :( What worries me, is that it initially worked ... can this happen just because I had an IEM in it (a TRRS one)? I'm worried, because even if it was replaced, I'm worried it'll happen again.
You mean the 4 ring ones? If so, I have not checked to see if it causes a short or other issues with the normal stereo jack.
 
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