Review and Measurements of SMSL AD18 DAC & Amp

[Jimster480]

U bet...totally agree with you about not knowing each component or part number. My question was generic as to asking for info on what might work / fit the amp so that I could have it running.
Like people seriously into the hobby would atleast be aware of general things like - what volume pot is used in this amp( the name / type - as it's not the general one), which we use to up n down volume as it also has a de- press option to select stuff.

Enthusiasts would have done so much R& D with gear that they would know what alternate display might fit etc.
Thanks so much for taking time out,really appreciated.

Enthusiast? I've definitely opened stuff up but as far as what exact part is in what product? Nope. Not for most of the parts. Anyway I wish you luck.

 

[Frank Dernie]

Enthusiasts would have done so much R& D with gear that they would know what alternate display might fit etc.

I am an engineer and enthusiast and I doubt many enthusiasts have done much "R&D".
Expert repair technicians may well look into alternatives for older rare and valuable items the owner wants to keep going but only if it justifies their time and cost.
Maybe you would get more success asking on a type of audio forum specialising on DIY?

 

[Madslide]

Can someone please tell me what type of display is used on the Ad18 as my display got burnt in a fire. I know it's a 1.44" TFT screen, but m not sure if it comes with pins or a ribbon cable etc. I even contacted Kelly from SMSL but she does not bother about answering emails as I've mailed her a dozen times.
Any info about the type of display, even an alternate one would do ,so that atleast i can get it up and running. Will find a audio tech guy to have it installed for me, have to replace the banana sockets too as they melted and are stuck now. Even the power socket pin needs to be changed. Hopefully the other internals should be fine .

Does your display is steal working or it’s just the plastic cover in front which is burnt?
If it’s just the plastic, remove it by gently inserting cutter blade staring by the top of the amp. There is some twin faces tape all around beetwenn the plastic screen and the amp case.

Then if the amp is not already working, removing the front plastic is the way to acces the front pannel screws.

 

[Masterasterix777]

Does your display is steal working or it’s just the plastic cover in front which is burnt?
If it’s just the plastic, remove it by gently inserting cutter blade staring by the top of the amp. There is some twin faces tape all around beetwenn the plastic screen and the amp case.

Then if the amp is not already working, removing the front plastic is the way to acces the front pannel screws.

At this point...All id like to say is " YOU ARE GOD SENT"....Thanks a ton for taking time out to respond with such valuable suggestions- Will keep you posted.

 

[Masterasterix777]

Does your display is steal working or it’s just the plastic cover in front which is burnt?
If it’s just the plastic, remove it by gently inserting cutter blade staring by the top of the amp. There is some twin faces tape all around beetwenn the plastic screen and the amp case.

Then if the amp is not already working, removing the front plastic is the way to acces the front pannel screws.

Good Evening My dear saviour and friend, how are you doing ? Hope all is well at ur end. don't mind me replying so late, the reason being I wanted to implement the invaluable suggestions that you gave and only then write back to you. Infact you have no idea as to how helpless i was feeling before you wrote to me, was like a fish out of water & being a noob at electronics made matters even worse. Your words filled me with courage and a feeling that i could do it- thankyou so much my friend.
I followed ur instructions to the T and I'm posting the pics I have taken after dismantling the amp.
( I would kindly request you to send me some pics of the speaker wire connection at the rear, the part where they are soldered onto a plate that is inturn connected to the banana female sockets as i have to solder them back after putting in the new banana socks and i have no clue how they were in the first place. It would be a great help to me.

 

[Masterasterix777]

I also noticed very clearly that your amp is very well made too, as in very neatly assembled unlike the ones sent to India. The quality of components used is high end in ur gear, for ex the rotary encoder ( volume potentiometer) in ur amp has a ribbon cable where as i see wires soldered in mine. I also think there is a digital potentiometer in ur unit as the component is not visible in ur pics.
Infact I'm really curious to know the reason why you happened to open up ur amp( did you have an issue too ? Or are you the technically inclined types) that's someone who likes to tear things apart and put them back together.
Would love to know ur setup and what do u pair with this amp, how's ur experience with it so far ? I've even heard that you can run a subwoofer from the 3.5mm aux at the rear, have you tried it and if so how's the performance of the sub.
Im planning to buy another class d amp..... It's a AIYIMA A07, would u have any idea about it as I've heard rave comments and that it's a beast. I had the wharfdale Diamond 225 speakers and they were sounding great with the Ad18 untill they were destroyed in the fire too.

 

[Madslide]

Normally you have the side and polarity of the speakers written on the card.
I will answer some of your other question later.

 

[Madslide]

So just to clarify few points.
I’m using the SMSL AD-18 in a 2 ways active setup with a MiniDSP Nano DIGI. They are used as FDA amplifier with the coaxial inputs (which has not been tested in the review of this amplifier). Amplifiers are powered by an SMPS300RS power supply giving lots of punch and reactivity on the bass range without any parasite noise.
I have version 3.1 and 3.2 (the last one from what I know) of the amplifiers so it may be the reason why your AD18 is different on few components.
The amplifiers has been “modified” with better quality wire for the speakers outpout (no more connectors on the main card also) and the outpout capacitors as been changed with another value giving in my opinion better details and reactivity to the signal.

I never tried the sub outpout but it should work as advertised.
I don't know the amplifier you mention also but you should read @amirm review.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ds/aiyima-a07-tpa3255-review-amplifier.18984/

I think it is much more effective and versatile to work in active filtering with "bad" amplifiers than to try to combine and test lots of amplifiers with speakers whose passive filtering is not well designed. The advantages of the AD18 is that it does not cost much and it works in full digital, so no DAC to select and add in the chain. You can make a decent active multiway amplification system for less than 500$.

 

[Masterasterix777]

So just to clarify few points.
I’m using the SMSL AD-18 in a 2 ways active setup with a MiniDSP Nano DIGI. They are used as FDA amplifier with the coaxial inputs (which has not been tested in the review of this amplifier). Amplifiers are powered by an SMPS300RS power supply giving lots of punch and reactivity on the bass range without any parasite noise.
I have version 3.1 and 3.2 (the last one from what I know) of the amplifiers so it may be the reason why your AD18 is different on few components.
The amplifiers has been “modified” with better quality wire for the speakers outpout (no more connectors on the main card also) and the outpout capacitors as been changed with another value giving in my opinion better details and reactivity to the signal.

I never tried the sub outpout but it should work as advertised.
I don't know the amplifier you mention also but you should read @amirm review.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ds/aiyima-a07-tpa3255-review-amplifier.18984/

I think it is much more effective and versatile to work in active filtering with "bad" amplifiers than to try to combine and test lots of amplifiers with speakers whose passive filtering is not well designed. The advantages of the AD18 is that it does not cost much and it works in full digital, so no DAC to select and add in the chain. You can make a decent active multiway amplification system for less than 500$.

Brilliant stuff, thanks for taking time out & sharing your views. You surely have a ton of knowledge regarding audio gear and it shows clearly in ur reply. Now I have a better picture of how to go about setting up my gear once it's back to life. Kind of you to link to the article and I'll go through it .
Hope u have a great day ahead.Cheers.

 

[Masterasterix777]

So just to clarify few points.
I’m using the SMSL AD-18 in a 2 ways active setup with a MiniDSP Nano DIGI. They are used as FDA amplifier with the coaxial inputs (which has not been tested in the review of this amplifier). Amplifiers are powered by an SMPS300RS power supply giving lots of punch and reactivity on the bass range without any parasite noise.
I have version 3.1 and 3.2 (the last one from what I know) of the amplifiers so it may be the reason why your AD18 is different on few components.
The amplifiers has been “modified” with better quality wire for the speakers outpout (no more connectors on the main card also) and the outpout capacitors as been changed with another value giving in my opinion better details and reactivity to the signal.

I never tried the sub outpout but it should work as advertised.
I don't know the amplifier you mention also but you should read @amirm review.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ds/aiyima-a07-tpa3255-review-amplifier.18984/

I think it is much more effective and versatile to work in active filtering with "bad" amplifiers than to try to combine and test lots of amplifiers with speakers whose passive filtering is not well designed. The advantages of the AD18 is that it does not cost much and it works in full digital, so no DAC to select and add in the chain. You can make a decent active multiway amplification system for less than 500$.

So just to clarify few points.
I’m using the SMSL AD-18 in a 2 ways active setup with a MiniDSP Nano DIGI. They are used as FDA amplifier with the coaxial inputs (which has not been tested in the review of this amplifier). Amplifiers are powered by an SMPS300RS power supply giving lots of punch and reactivity on the bass range without any parasite noise.
I have version 3.1 and 3.2 (the last one from what I know) of the amplifiers so it may be the reason why your AD18 is different on few components.
The amplifiers has been “modified” with better quality wire for the speakers outpout (no more connectors on the main card also) and the outpout capacitors as been changed with another value giving in my opinion better details and reactivity to the signal.

I never tried the sub outpout but it should work as advertised.
I don't know the amplifier you mention also but you should read @amirm review.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ds/aiyima-a07-tpa3255-review-amplifier.18984/

I think it is much more effective and versatile to work in active filtering with "bad" amplifiers than to try to combine and test lots of amplifiers with speakers whose passive filtering is not well designed. The advantages of the AD18 is that it does not cost much and it works in full digital, so no DAC to select and add in the chain. You can make a decent active multiway amplification system for less than 500$.

Also I just have one last thing and i would need your expert advice on this.
There are various desktop 2.1 setups like the Logitech z623 that has an amazing subwoofer. Now normally a independent sub would cost me $500 easily so instead of that could i buy the Logitech 2.1 and use that sub along with my wharfdale speakers and amp to achieve a 2.1 stereo setup.
Do you think it would be a viable option to do this and get decent SQ rather than having to shell out 500 just for a sub, i could drive the sub from the sub out from the Ad18 amp using a 3.5mm to RCA cable.
That was my final query as i do not want to bother you more with my silly questions.

 

[Masterasterix777]

Normally you have the side and polarity of the speakers written on the card.
I will answer some of your other question later.
View attachment 238510

Brother, could you kindly tell me what menu options does pressing the volume knob offer. Like just the main options for example.
1st press - coaxial
2nd press- optical
3rd press - Bluetooth etc, just give me a brief idea as i have to use Bluetooth without the screen.
Just give me a rough idea since you already have the same amp.
This simple workflow will enable me to use the amp.

 

[Madslide]

Long press to put ON the amp (2 secondes)

Then short press to enter the source menu (that is the first one)
Then directly 4 right clics on the buttons and you should be in BT mode.

Usb -> opit 1 -> opti 2 -> coax -> BLuetooth -> Aux

If you wait 5 secondes it will be recorded by the device.

Will only work if you start from à reseted device.
To reset the device, press the start buttons while you connect the power source to the elecricity connector.

I dont use Subwoofer as I dont need one.
I let the other correcting if I'm wrong but the outpout for the sub is not à power source but only a signal source. Subs have generally an internal amplifier which explain why they are expensive.

 

[Masterasterix777]

Long press to put ON the amp (2 secondes)

Then short press to enter the source menu (that is the first one)
Then directly 4 right clics on the buttons and you should be in BT mode.

Usb -> opit 1 -> opti 2 -> coax -> BLuetooth -> Aux

If you wait 5 secondes it will be recorded by the device.

Will only work if you start from à reseted device.
To reset the device, press the start buttons while you connect the power source to the elecricity connector.

I dont use Subwoofer as I dont need one.
I let the other correcting if I'm wrong but the outpout for the sub is not à power source but only a signal source. Subs have generally an internal amplifier which explain why they are expensive

Long press to put ON the amp (2 secondes)

Then short press to enter the source menu (that is the first one)
Then directly 4 right clics on the buttons and you should be in BT mode.

Usb -> opit 1 -> opti 2 -> coax -> BLuetooth -> Aux

If you wait 5 secondes it will be recorded by the device.

Will only work if you start from à reseted device.
To reset the device, press the start buttons while you connect the power source to the elecricity connector.

I dont use Subwoofer as I dont need one.
I let the other correcting if I'm wrong but the outpout for the sub is not à power source but only a signal source. Subs have generally an internal amplifier which explain why they are expensive.

Just Brilliant. You outlined so well and precisely. It was like a cake walk for me with ur instructions. Grateful to you and for taking time out to reply.

 

[mathew]

SMSL Ad18 sounds okay with my sennheiser hd650. Swopping for the akg 712pro, the album " the heart within" by julienne Taylor sounds amazing. Dave Brubeck take five sounds fabulous. Streaming from the youtube music channel via usb. For once I don't care what the measurements say.