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Review and Measurements of RME ADI-2 DAC

HansHolland

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Is there anything conceivable that could be done post amp to prevent this EMF energy from coming back into the output? Something akin to a one-way street?

It doesn't necessarily bother me at these levels, but it would be interesting to attempt and compare if a practical solution could be made available.

Ok, this is from a while ago. Sorry, but I just registered.
It is about the back-emf of headphones influencing the headphone amplifiers THD figures (for worse).

I use an IFI EarBuddy for using the volume control of my RME work closer to 0 dB.
The EarBuddy is an "expensive" resistive divider. Around 16 Ohm input resistor and a 2.7 Ohm output resistor.
I don't hear my RME having problems driving that load. Both the PHONES and the IEM output.
And I have a Beyerdynamic DT 150 (250 Ohm impedance) that also feels fine with the EarBuddy.

But seen from the DT 150 the back-emf is loaded by a 2.7 Ohm resistor in parallel with the 16 Ohm resistor (and the output resistance of the RME).
If I was current, then I would choose the 2.7 Ohm path.
I expect that the back-emf of headphones would have less impact on the performance of the headphone amp when using this kind of devices.
But the headphone amplifier must be able to drive the low load.
So, could reducing efficiency improve compatibility.
 

MC_RME

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The ADI has 0.1 Ohm output impedance, so you are heavily reducing its damping factor (or back-emf capability) when using a resistive divider at the output. In real-world it doesn't matter, you won't notice any difference. The audible difference of using such a device is better level matching and reduced noise - which again is of no use with an ADI-2 DAC, as you already have perfect level adaptation and no noise.
 

Tony333

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Is ADI-2 DAC has bit-test like in ADI-2 PRO? I tested ADI-2 PRO and recieved strange result...
All tests in windows 10 and different players.
JRiver - all tests passed.
Foobar2000 - all 32bit tests shows 24bit passed.
Audirvana+ - all 24bit tests shows 16bit passed.
Can anybody explain such results?
 

Tks

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Is ADI-2 DAC has bit-test like in ADI-2 PRO? I tested ADI-2 PRO and recieved strange result...
All tests in windows 10 and different players.
JRiver - all tests passed.
Foobar2000 - all 32bit tests shows 24bit passed.
Audirvana+ - all 24bit tests shows 16bit passed.
Can anybody explain such results?

Yes, JRiver is the only one capable of processing 16 to 32 bit-perfect.

There are other players that are capable, (I think HQPlayer or something it was called).

Also you have to be sure you're using the ASIO driver when doing these tests.
 

MC_RME

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Audirvana should be able to pass the 24 bit test. Check volume is set to unity and no processing is active (EQ, Dither, upsampling etc). Our 32 bit test is very hard, usually in 32 bit mode not the full digital range is used, but we opted to do so, and thus often 32 bit fails. One shouldn't worry about that too much. As mentioned by member Tks, JRiver and HQPlayer are two examples that pass the 32 bit test.
 

Tony333

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Audirvana should be able to pass the 24 bit test. Check volume is set to unity and no processing is active (EQ, Dither, upsampling etc). Our 32 bit test is very hard, usually in 32 bit mode not the full digital range is used, but we opted to do so, and thus often 32 bit fails. One shouldn't worry about that too much. As mentioned by member Tks, JRiver and HQPlayer are two examples that pass the 32 bit test.
Why ADI-2 PRO is work normal only with ASIO? For test Wasapi bit-test I had to change frequency in driver (in windows I can choose sample rate only selected in ADI-2 PRO driver). With tidal program which plays MQA with 88,2/96 I use Jriver driver (in which I selected the ASIO for ADI-2 PRO) and then ADI-2 PRO shows 88,2/96.
And why ADI-2 PRO then plays through ASIO, also plays another sounds?
 

Tony333

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Yes, JRiver is the only one capable of processing 16 to 32 bit-perfect.

There are other players that are capable, (I think HQPlayer or something it was called).

Also you have to be sure you're using the ASIO driver when doing these tests.
I used only ASIO for tests.
 

MC_RME

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The first questions have been answered in our forum numerous times. If you hear Windows system sounds or other apps then you could disable those, or completely remove the ADI-2 as Windows default playback device in the Sound control panel. Our drivers are multi-client and can play WDM and ASIO simultaneously on the same outputs, and even 4 ASIO hosts simultanenously on the same outputs.
 

Intensemojo

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Noob question. How do you set fixed volume? bypass volume for fixed output into my integrated.
 

VintageFlanker

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Noob question. How do you set fixed volume? bypass volume for fixed output into my integrated.
Assuming you're looking for a near-standard fixed output (1,73V), recommended by RME:

Standard settings (I/O): Set Auto Ref Level: Off. Then, select +7dBu Ref level, then push it to 0.0dB. At last, Lock Volume: On.
 

AidenYoung

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Hi RME, I have a connectivity question would like to ask. Prior to purchase the ADI-2 DAC, my setup as following. I am using a LUMIN D2 to listen to files and Tidal; and have an io data Soundgenic serves as NAS purpose. Both devices are connecting to a switch. On the speaker side, Lumin D2 XLR connected to Mcintosh MA8900 then hook up to a set of B&W 805D3. This is how my current listening setup is like.

My question is if I get the ADI-2 DAC, I most likely will replace it with my Lumin D2 since it doesn’t have USB output but BNC only. Therefore, I will choose to connect the ADI-2 with IO data Soundgenie since the soundgenic support the function to hook up an external using USB output to serve as a music player as well. Now, my concern is whether io data soundgenic is compatible with the ADI-2 thru USB output. If they both cannot sync together then I might need to give up the ADI-2 unless I go get a Lumin U1 mini as a transport but then my cost will be double up.

Could you please help me out and see if the ADI-2 is able to sync with Soundgenic? Thanks a lot

Last but not least is the Balanced output from ADI-2 consider as true balanced port?
 

VintageFlanker

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Could you please help me out and see if the ADI-2 is able to sync with Soundgenic? Thanks a lot
I don't know about this specific device, but I can stream through the ADI-2 USBin using either Android phone I have/had (with UAPP app). I see no reason why the Soundgenic couldn't act as an USB transport as advertised:

ca615d98-c0ba-4ac0-a555-4d6059583879.jpg


Last but not least is the Balanced output from ADI-2 consider as true balanced port?
Yes.
 

AidenYoung

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I don't know about this specific device, but I can stream through the ADI-2 USBin using either Android phone I have/had (with UAPP app). I see no reason why the Soundgenic couldn't act as an USB transport as advertised:

ca615d98-c0ba-4ac0-a555-4d6059583879.jpg


Yes.
Thanks for your reply. I just found out Soundgenic has listed which device is compatible with their product. RME is on the list as well. https://www.iodata.jp/ssp/soundgenic/en/connect/
 

Bliman

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I can't seem to get an answer on the other RME thread. So I will try it here.
One thing I really want to know. I have a remote for my cd player and a remote for my RME. But I don't have a remote for my power amplifier. Now when I listen at night in bed I can put both off but not my power amplifier. Is it harmful that my power amplifier is on but that I turn off my RME which is also functioning as a preamplifier and also turn off my cd player? And leave my power amplifier on while I am sleeping?
 

McFly

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It is not harmful to anyone.

It will be shorten capacitor life inside the amplifier. Electrolytic Capacitor life is around 5-10,000 hours, AT FULL TEMPERATURE, which is very unlikely in an audio amplifier, and even LESS likely in an audio amplifier at IDLE (i.e. no music playing). See this link here

It may also pose an extremely small fire risk if you leave something very combustable on top of the amplifier if the amplifier is class A or a poorly designed AB or D and gets hot idling, internally. You would need to investigate yourself if your amplifier gets hot on any surfaces after idling for at least 4 hours. I don't think there are any documented cases of an audio amplifier burning down a house from being left on, this is however not a fact but only my personal experience and I could be incorrect.

Also consider a possible risk of an infant baby touching a very hot amplifier, but again, as above, I doubt this has happened. No competent manufacturer in their right mind would sell an amplifier that gets above 55 degrees Celsius (the burning threshold for skin IIRC).

It is harmful to your utilities/power bill. Depends on how many Watts it draws at IDLE. You can buy very cheap Watt meters to plug in between your amplifier and the wall and get a very good idea of how much this will be.

So conclusion; it is not harmful, it will shorten the amplifiers life from approximately 20 years to 10 years (my estimate, electrical engineer but not an electronics manufacturer), and it will make your power bill go up a few dollars a month.
 

Bliman

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It is not harmful to anyone.

It will be shorten capacitor life inside the amplifier. Electrolytic Capacitor life is around 5-10,000 hours, AT FULL TEMPERATURE, which is very unlikely in an audio amplifier, and even LESS likely in an audio amplifier at IDLE (i.e. no music playing). See this link here

It may also pose an extremely small fire risk if you leave something very combustable on top of the amplifier if the amplifier is class A or a poorly designed AB or D and gets hot idling, internally. You would need to investigate yourself if your amplifier gets hot on any surfaces after idling for at least 4 hours. I don't think there are any documented cases of an audio amplifier burning down a house from being left on, this is however not a fact but only my personal experience and I could be incorrect.

Also consider a possible risk of an infant baby touching a very hot amplifier, but again, as above, I doubt this has happened. No competent manufacturer in their right mind would sell an amplifier that gets above 55 degrees Celsius (the burning threshold for skin IIRC).

It is harmful to your utilities/power bill. Depends on how many Watts it draws at IDLE. You can buy very cheap Watt meters to plug in between your amplifier and the wall and get a very good idea of how much this will be.

So conclusion; it is not harmful, it will shorten the amplifiers life from approximately 20 years to 10 years (my estimate, electrical engineer but not an electronics manufacturer), and it will make your power bill go up a few dollars a month.
First thank you very much. I have a lyngdorf sda 2175 (Class D power amplifier). With my Grace design m902 preamplifier and dac you would get a hard plop sound when you turned it off before the power amplifier. But that is not the case with the RME DAC. I am not really technical and I was afraid that the power amplifier would get more current or something else and that it would be very dangerous to do or it would harm the power amplifier.
 

Willem

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As was said, it reduces the life expectancy of the unit, it adds a fire risk (for this reason my father the electrical engineer would always turn off all gear at night) and increases your electricity bill. On top of that, it obviously reduces your green credentials. So there are good reasons to find a solution, and there is one: a master/slave power strip. I use one because my Quad 606-2 power amplifier has the power switch at the back. I use my RME ADI-2 DAC as the master, but it is so frugal that it needs some extra energy consumption to activate the switch. So I added the very small consumption from my Chromecast Audio and the combined electricity consumption is enough to engage the switch. It works a treat for a very small outlay, and my best estimate was that it would earn itself back within the year.
 
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Bliman

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As was said, it reduces the life expectancy of the unit, it adds a fire risk (for this reason my father the electrical engineer would always turn off all gear at night) and increases your electricity bill. On top of that, it obviously reduces your green credentials. So there are good reasons to find a solution, and there is one: a master/slave power strip. I use one because my Quad 606-2 power amplifier has the power switch at the back. I use my RME ADI-2 DAC as the master, but it is so frugal that it needs some extra energy consumption to activate the switch. So I added the very small consumption from my Chromecast Audio and the combined electricity consumption is enough to engage the switch. It works a treat for a very small outlay, and my best estimate was that it would earn itself back within the year.
I am interested in how this works. If I google master/slave power strip. Then I get pictures of power strips with an on and off switch.
My gear is plugged in a power strip that gives protection against lightning. Have you in some way made it that if you put out the RME DAC with the remote that everything switches off? If so I definitely want to know how you did this? That would be great. Mind you I am not a technical guy
 

Willem

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This is the one that I use: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0146YBAJA/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1
If I turn off the RME ADI-2 the other gear that is in the slave sockets is turned off as well, and it is turned on when I turn on the ADI, so functionally this is the same as a trigger.
My power strip does not have surge protection because the wall socket is not earthed, so there would not be any point. However, I believe master slave power strips with surge protection do exist as well. I ended up with the Olympia because at least on paper it had the lowest switching threshold, and as I already said, that still needed a bit of help from the electricity consumption of the CCA.
 

Bliman

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This is the one that I use: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0146YBAJA/ref=pe_3044161_189395811_TE_SCE_dp_1
If I turn off the RME ADI-2 the other gear that is in the slave sockets is turned off as well, and it is turned on when I turn on the ADI, so functionally this is the same as a trigger.
My power strip does not have surge protection because the wall socket is not earthed, so there would not be any point. However, I believe master slave power strips with surge protection do exist as well. I ended up with the Olympia because at least on paper it had the lowest switching threshold, and as I already said, that still needed a bit of help from the electricity consumption of the CCA.
Thank you for this great post. I have never heard of something like that. Can you tell me how do you I know what the lowest switching threshold I need? Can I look that up somewhere (RME dac)? This one looks nice (https://www.brennenstuhl.nl/nl-NL/p...art-lichtgrijs-3-m-h05vv-f-3g1-5-master-slave) and has a minimum threshold of 5W. But already thanks for helping me.
 
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