This is how a well engineered speaker should measure.Just about all modern speakers are wrong.
This is the JLTI Elsinore.
View attachment 147743
The impedance is indeed beautiful to watch but I disagree that this is how the load of a loudspeaker
should look like in absolute terms. Perhaps if your amp is an OTL tube amp you particularly love, or some other amplifier whose response considerably varies with the load. In other word, a crappy amplifier.
I counter with a different example: The loudspeakers I recently designed. Here's the xover and the simulated response using measurements for the drivers in their enclosures (the actual measurement is very very close).
As you can see, not many components in the crossover circuit itself, the response is within +-2Db from about 150Hz to 20Khz (under that there is an active subwoofer that is mostly cut at 60hz – which is where the woofer starts to drop significantly – but offers a bit of support up to 150Hz to keep the bottom quite flat), and It is a 97Db speaker. The impedance is always close to resistive, its peaks are contained, there are not bad drops, therefore any half-decent amplifier would be able to drive the speakers without any trouble. Because of the sensitivity, a SE triode amp would probably drive them well.
The response (with the above caveats) is more or less as good as that of the JLTI Elsinore (I cannot get rid of the little hole at 3-3.4Khz, it is a feature of the driver itself) and its phase is quite close to linear. This was quite tricky to obtain and the solution was to use a 3rd order low pass on the mid-woofer and a 1rst order high pass on the mid-tweeter (which under 1K drops like a 3rd order itself), so the acoustic slopes are close to 4th order, but the actual electrical xover f3 points are not the same, in order to accomodate some quirks in the response (the baffle width for the Faital is part of the design) and allow the two drivers to be wired in phase (a 3rd order + a 1rst order would otherwise behave like a 2nd order filter, which would requires inversion of one of the drivers, with corresponding flipping of the phase). Impulse, decay, CSD in room are all good and THD is mostly at -50Db at 1W.
By the way, the components are
1) Beyma TPL 150H with rear chamber and felt removed, put into a effective 5L closed box, with its original waveguide but with Luis Garcia's acoustic filter/rephaser (discussion and design at
DIYAudio) inserted between front magnet and waveguide - we are well in TAD 2001 / Vitavox S2 territory with these mods, at a fraction of the price. With respect to the already highly respected stock driver, distortion is reduced by 20Db, some resonances are tamed including a nasty peak at 8Khz and a 1.5Khz one that leaves a decay tail - in other words it makes it usable from about 1.2Khz.
2) Faital Pro 12PR300 (which, apart from max power, is even better than the Beyma 12p80nd the TPL 150H is often paired with).
Crossing the TPL and the 12PR300 that low allows for the dispersion lobes to roughly match, at least in the horizontal plane. Hence I can use a 12" woofer instead of something smaller, that would have had problems reaching 60Hz. Also, the ridiculously low moving mass of the 12PR300 still allows it to be very fast at 1-2khz allowing for a good transition between the two drivers (cross them higher and you feel you have two different speakers in the room...).
The two subs (one per channel) use each a pair of Goldwood GW‐215/40/8 sound reinforcement woofers. These drivers stink for most applications, but if used in a Ripole they are more than fine, and they are cheap. They look ugly, but another advantage of the Ripole construction is that they are hidden! My Ripole design has intentionally different front and rear chamber depths, and simulations suggested I would get two relatively mild 6-9Db peaks due to resonances (200 and 320Hz) instead of a monster 15-18Db resonance at 320Hz. Measurements confirmed this. It makes much easier to filter the subwoofer. Also, the shape of the rear lobe make if possible to put the sub also relatively close to a room corner.
Of course I am using my Neurochrome/Purifi build here for the top two ways (and a Hypex Fusion 501 plate amp for for each of the subs). Since this is actually a Purifi thread I must mention this. But also my humble gainclone drives them fine.