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Review and Measurements of Paradigm PW-Link Streamer/DAC

CiXel

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Seeing as a big benefit of ARC is bass management, and this unit has no dedicated subwoofer output, does anyone have any tips for ARC Genesis? To complicate matters, I'm running with some smaller satellites that I cannot high-pass filter (integrated amp, single fixed sub out).
As far as ARC and the PW-Link, just let it treat the system as a whole at that point. It will know what's coming out of the system and so it can compensate. It may not be as ideal as full on bass management, but it will do a reasonable job while addressing issues you have above the cross-over point. It sounds like you may have other issues given your lack of satellite high-pass scenario and may want to instead be checking out the PW-Amp for your purposes.
 

ripmixburn

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As far as ARC and the PW-Link, just let it treat the system as a whole at that point. It will know what's coming out of the system and so it can compensate. It may not be as ideal as full on bass management, but it will do a reasonable job while addressing issues you have above the cross-over point. It sounds like you may have other issues given your lack of satellite high-pass scenario and may want to instead be checking out the PW-Amp for your purposes.

Yeah, that's what I've been doing and never playing too loud. How do my settings/summary look?

Adjust Targets:
Screen Shot 2020-11-27 at 10.00.42 PM.png


Summary:
Screen Shot 2020-11-27 at 10.00.50 PM.png
 

CiXel

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What are you trying to solve for? It seems like you have a room node that's giving you issues down low, but the midrange seems pretty smooth.
 

ripmixburn

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What are you trying to solve for? It seems like you have a room node that's giving you issues down low, but the midrange seems pretty smooth.

Would turning up the volume on my subwoofer before I do the measurements help? Speakers are doing nothing below 100H… though I could measure that too I guess.
 

CiXel

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Ah, if you have headroom It's a good place to start. The system seems like it's having to boost a ton to get you up to 'flat'. Perhaps some additional level to start with would give it some room to bring your dips up and flatten whatever 'overage' you have.
 

ripmixburn

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Ah, if you have headroom It's a good place to start. The system seems like it's having to boost a ton to get you up to 'flat'. Perhaps some additional level to start with would give it some room to bring your dips up and flatten whatever 'overage' you have.
The tricky part is getting the volume right. Before running the sweeps from ARC Genesis via toslink to my integrated amp, I put my amplifier to 50% volume and I think the sub is only at 35%. Without a high pass filter, I should not run the satellites any louder.
 

CiXel

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I don't know how your setup is. What do you mean by flat? You'll need to play with the crossover frequency yourself. The unit of measurement is usually Hertz. Based on what you said above should be around 120Hz or so.
 

ripmixburn

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I don't know how your setup is. What do you mean by flat? You'll need to play with the crossover frequency yourself. The unit of measurement is usually Hertz. Based on what you said above should be around 120Hz or so.

I've got quite the set-up to try and get some value from ARC. An integrated amp and a sub with independent volume. Very different than having ARC integrated into an AV receiver.

PW Link ➜ optical ➜ Integrated amplifier ➜ Amp's fixed 100Hz subwoofer output ➜ Capable 500W 12-inch sub (only has RCA L/R input or LFE input)

More detail on the sub:
  • Low frequency limit: 21Hz (EQ1) 27Hz (EQ2)
  • Upper frequency limit: 40 – 120 Hz Variable
  • Low pass filter alignment: Active 4th order 24db/octave (two-stage filter)
From the binding posts the speakers are connected:
  • Speaker A ➜ Bookshelf speakers
  • Speaker B ➜ Satellite speakers
Right now I'm focused on getting Speaker B correct, but save profiles for each so I can switch.
 

CiXel

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If you have a fixed 100Hz sub output, then just open it up to 120Hz so the Amp and sub crossover interfere as little as possible. Raise the output of the sub so it's in line with the other speakers and the EQ doesn't have to max out. You should definitely get some benefit and it looks like you are judging by your green line. I run something similar and while yes it's different, I still find it preferable to not using it.

You'll still need to experiment depending on your desired slope and how much bass you ultimately desire.
 

Guddu

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Hi FM,
Now price being close to 200$, how would you compare DSP capabilities of PW-Link vs minidsp HD?
 
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Shirazir

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I'm sorry to necro-bump this thread, but I'm having issues with a PW Link I just purchased and was wondering if anyone has come across a similar issue.

Once plugged in, it turns on, the WiFi light blinks quickly, and then it seemingly reboots. Almost like a boot loop issue.

I've tried the power cycle, and factory reset process, but nothing seems to work. Also tried hardwiring to no avail.

Thanks in advance!
 

Jmudrick

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I'm sorry to necro-bump this thread, but I'm having issues with a PW Link I just purchased and was wondering if anyone has come across a similar issue.

Once plugged in, it turns on, the WiFi light blinks quickly, and then it seemingly reboots. Almost like a boot loop issue.

I've tried the power cycle, and factory reset process, but nothing seems to work. Also tried hardwiring to no avail.

Thanks in advance!
Perhaps a bad unit, I have two, no issues.
 

Vasr

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I'm sorry to necro-bump this thread, but I'm having issues with a PW Link I just purchased and was wondering if anyone has come across a similar issue.

Once plugged in, it turns on, the WiFi light blinks quickly, and then it seemingly reboots. Almost like a boot loop issue.

I've tried the power cycle, and factory reset process, but nothing seems to work. Also tried hardwiring to no avail.

Thanks in advance!

I have had it only for a little while and it is a bit finicky with WiFi, especially with initial set up.

Have you been able to use the Play-Fi app to configure the WiFi? The initial run of Play-Fi connected to it will likely update its firmware.

Exactly what have you been able to do with it so far?

And what are the exact light sequences you see (without inferring a reboot) in both the power light and the WiFi? There are two different speeds of WiFi blinking that indicates different status (looking to connect to WiFi and waiting for configuration with its own WiFi SSID).

If you aren't able to just turn it on and see its SSID in a phone or tablet, then it may have issues out of the box.
 
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